OK! Enough chat...Starting a 1000g+ Reef

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Interesting. Well that pump is expensive too, but I found the Aquatec 8800 on eBay for $110 including an ESO and shipping, so it seems that would be better than the permeate pump, with the exception that the permeate pump does not use electricity.

I read the specs. on the permeate pump over and over and spent quite a bit of time researching that unit to figure out how it works, and I cannot understand how it would work without back pressure since that seems to be how it is activated. Strange!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6790833#post6790833 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
Interesting. Well that pump is expensive too, but I found the Aquatec 8800 on eBay for $110 including an ESO and shipping, so it seems that would be better than the permeate pump, with the exception that the permeate pump does not use electricity.

I read the specs. on the permeate pump over and over and spent quite a bit of time researching that unit to figure out how it works, and I cannot understand how it would work without back pressure since that seems to be how it is activated. Strange!

Keep in mind that these two pumps are totally different...

The permeate pump is meant to save water... So instead of having a 1:4 ratio you get more of 1:0.06 ratio or something like that (85% less water down the drain)...

Booster pump will give you a higher PSI which in turn will give you higher water output per day...

In your situation I think you would be better off with a booster pump, I was just showing you the permeate pump so you knew that it was out there... The best setup would be to have both pumps because you would get a higher output per day as well as a lower amount of waste water down the drainââ"šÂ¬Ã‚¦
 
Your membrane will work more efficiently with more pressure. As pressure increases, the efficiency rises proportionally.

I run the 8800 booster pump on mine. Without the 8800 I get about 40 psi when I have the ratio set to 4:1. With the pump it runs 90-95 psi, depending on water temperature, and the production rate approximately doubles.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6790690#post6790690 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
skatezen maybe you can give me some advice. the link you posted is great but there is more than one way to hook that pump up using pressure switches and electronic switches. I am not going into a tank as their specs. indicate and my supply line is split to two units. from these units pure water goes out to holding tank, top-off for QT, 7 display. Which pressure switch should I get do I get and how would it be installed?

Pressure switch is easy - get the 1/4" thats the diameter of your RO tubing

As far as how to hook it up in your situation thats a little more difficult. Make sure you have an Auto shutoff valve on your RO unit if not you'll need to get one. Then this is where it gets a little hairy not knowing your system, but I'll tell you how I have mine setup. I have my output of my DI connected like this:
(DI Output) ===(Pressure Switch)===(Manual Ball Valve)===(Kent Float Valve)

The Kent Float valve and Manual Ball Valve are used to build back pressure to trip your Pressure Switch which in turn shuts off the Booster and ASV in the RO seizing RO production. So you would need some sort of "stop" on your RO lines in your holding tank, QT topoff, and display topoff. I used the Kent Float in my holding tank, which when I set up my system will go right into my QT and Display probably with a Kent float in each of those tanks. I will adjust it to be above the salt water line to prevent salt build up on it. I hope I answered your questions if you need more info or have more q's ask away.
 
Thanks. I talked to the pump supplier and he said that since I have 2 units operating off the pump, I'll have to place the switch before the units. He said to call me when I get it and he'll help me tweak the switch settings so it will work properly.

I have a maze of lines feeding various things and have cross-overs so that either filter can send water to every different location, or they both can send to one location. It looks like spaghetti and I may end up with a problem if I can't get the switch to only activate when all float valves are closed.
 
What is the size of your QT? It does make alot of sense not having a sump on it to allow for easy cleaning. Also what is the size of your containers that you use for aclimating corals and whatnot. Figured I'd ask you in here instead of in asnatlas's thread. Thanks
 
QT is a 29 Tall and I am just using 1g Rubbermaid measuring containers for the drip acclimation. They are easy to work with and cheap.

As far as acclimating corals, I haven't really gotten to that. I may use elevated trays in the QT or actually use my overflow. Either one would work fine I think.
 
You don't want to use your overflow and introduce bugs into the main system. You should really dip them and QT them before entry into the main display
 
prostaff yeah I got you on that. I was actually thinking about using the overflow as a grow out for frags rather than QT. Got mixed up on that last post...:confused:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6821282#post6821282 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
Well we know how that race will turn out! I think I have about 10 inches or so right now. I'll post some pics and a measurement tonight on my thread.

So where are those pics... Slacker :lol:
 
9 inches....zzzzzz

9 inches....zzzzzz

Some pics for you sluts...

Exhaust fan controlled by room temp. and humidity. It draws from two inputs at ceiling height and expells outside the house.

exhaust%20fan.jpg


QT Top-Off: One is RO/DI and the other is a feed from the refugium used for slow acclimation. When it is time to move animals into the display, I remove a cup of water at a time and allow the QT to be slowly filled with display water (and pods).

QT%20top-off.jpg


The next 4 pics are of one of the two air stone assemblies to be mounted in the skimmer body. These enable me to easily unscrew the stones and clean or change them out. Ultimately I will switch to a needle wheel style system and these can be replaced at that time.

These are built with a 3" plug tapped for 1/4" air line. A 12" section of 1/2" PVC pipe is glued on the inside over the hole, capped, and tapped for 1/8" air lines with stones.

air%20stones1.jpg


air%20stones2.jpg


air%20stones3.jpg


air%20stones4.jpg
 
Very sweet idea jonathan. The only thing that ever bothered me about my last air stone skimmer was getting to the air stones. looks like you found a quick solution to that
 
Fantastic project! I'm sorry, but I need a pic of actual water in the main tank..... I don't care if its just a few inches ..... It's a "living vicariously" thing.... and an overall pic of the fishy room... and ..... and ......

Nice job on the coast to coast overflow! Looking forward to seeing your skimmer too. And thanks for sharing!
 
9.5 inches...

9.5 inches...

Well, overall tank room pics are out-of-the-question right now because of the piles of stuff on my tables. :D Too embarrassing! Here are some shots of the tank side of the room...

Right side @ 9.5"

9.5%20right%20side.jpg


Center @ 9.5"

9.5%20tank.jpg


Left Side @ 9.5": In this shot you can see one of the blowers under the tank and salt waiting for it's turn!

9.5%20left%20side.jpg
 
Wow, things are looking great. I like seeing the wood of the stand...it seems that so many people paint them to 'seal' them, but by the looks of things, you have those sealed plenty well, and you didn't have to paint them.
 
As I said before...sluts. You're all SLUTS! :D :D

These pics are with the center lamp on only.

9.5%20front.jpg


This one is a low center shot with a return line. The cap is slotted so that water will come out in a downward path and across the back is a spray bar.

9.5%20center.jpg
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6825875#post6825875 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
As I said before...sluts. You're all SLUTS! :D :D [/IMG]


Hey now I resemble that remark! :D
 
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