OK! Enough chat...Starting a 1000g+ Reef

Status
Not open for further replies.
I like the idea of consolidating pumps, but I also like the idea of raw water going to the refugium. My refugium is two fold. Pods. Macro Algae nutrient export.

My install dictated the refugium be below the tank. But even if it did not, I feel a reasonable argument can be mounted to justify the second pump to feed raw overflow water to the refugium.

The good news is that your design will allow you to add that ability in the future if you wanted.

Dale
 
Well in a sense much of the water will be "raw" water since my overflow has 3 BHs and 2 go into the sump and then are pumped back into the display and fuge. You'll have to explain to me more why you think raw water for the fuge is important. I don't understand the reasoning behind that.
 
Where is the water the richest in nutrients? In the tank.

What is the fuge? Pod farm and nutrient export via macro-algea harvesting.

It has been debated before that the most efficient processing is via direct process not dilution (dump to sump then to fuge).
What you are doing will deffinantly work, but I believe that I would choose differently.

Dale
 
Nope, not filled. It now has 14 inches and about another 16 inches to go.

Fuge and sump are both done with the exception of mounting probes. Oddly enough Neptune doesn't have probe holders so I will have to fabricate something my self. The skimmer body is almost done and I will post pics of it Thurs. or Fri. It is a BEAST!
 
Your probe holder needs a couple of 1/2" holes to accomodate those probes. The probe is 4.5" long from the lip of the black capped section.

Remember the probes must remain wet at all times.
 
Marc,

Aren't they supposed to be held at a certain height as well? I haven't put a caliper on them yet, but it lloks like the tips are larger than the tops so I can't quite figure out the hole. Are you saying that a 1/2" hole is all I need? No screw to hold them in etc?
 
For the pH and ORP probes, a 1/2" hole is all you need. I put the bracket so the tops stay out of the water, and the tips stay submerged. Now if the person's display tank drains too much water when the return pump is off, the tops may get wet as well. This isn't the end of the world, but I try to keep them dry if possible.
 
OK. Tell me, is there an extension for the temp. probe? The instructions state that most of the probes need to be near the temp. probe for accurate readings but they all have much longer leads than the temp. probe. I positioned my ACIII based on the length of one of the other probes and now I seem to be restricted as to the location of all of them.

Do you think the probes should be in the inbound side of the sump or outbound? I have my heaters in the outbound side in the main area of flow and I wonder if the temp. probe is in the same area I might get innaccurate readings. Any comments?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6863010#post6863010 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
Do you think the probes should be in the inbound side of the sump or outbound? I have my heaters in the outbound side in the main area of flow and I wonder if the temp. probe is in the same area I might get innaccurate readings. Any comments?

I'd keep them on the inbound side as that is essentially the temp of the aquarium, if they are near the heaters, they might give false readings due to their close proximity
 
I agree with that. I checked with Neptune and they do have an extension for the temp. probe so I may have to get that to make it all work properly.
 
I keep mine in the bubble trap, as all the water has to travel through there. The leads are pretty long, and mostly are coiled up just to keep things tidy; you're right about the temperature probe wiring being shorter by comparison.
 
Well that makes sense and I have a couple of follow-up questions:

1. What about the conductivity probe? The manual says it should be installed away from the other probes to avoid interference.

2. Wouldn't air bubbles cause innaccurate readings? My initial plan called for having the probes mounted in the outbound sump so avoid air bubbles.
 
I don't have bubbles in my bubble trap. ;)

The ORP probe is a magical thing indeed. Moving it from here to there will change the numbers. I don't rely on them, but do look at the numbers from time to time. I think you want the ORP near the Thermometer Probe, and the pH away from them. Curt can tell you for sure.
 
I guess I don't know that probe. My Aqua Controller II only has three probes. Go ask Curt. :)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top