pico reef pest algae problem challenge
- Thread starter brandon429
- Start date
brandon429
Active member
Ha! Yes the Lysmata genus nice one, they are wimps
brandon429
Active member
This is cool!!
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=20230479&posted=1#post20230479
Look at the bottom pictures. Rocks absolutely covered in mixed algae communities, invasive macro algae even in the presence of excellent clean up crews ranging in the millions. I would expect Cayman Island water to test somewhat better on a hanna meter than we get in our tanks.
I find it patently amazing what we consider a wrecked tank is actually exactly what nature looks like.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=20230479&posted=1#post20230479
Look at the bottom pictures. Rocks absolutely covered in mixed algae communities, invasive macro algae even in the presence of excellent clean up crews ranging in the millions. I would expect Cayman Island water to test somewhat better on a hanna meter than we get in our tanks.
I find it patently amazing what we consider a wrecked tank is actually exactly what nature looks like.
adnup
New member
Ok I'm dealing with Bryopsis in a newly cycled tank. The rocks were soaked in muratic acid 6 months ago. Sand was rinsed and dried. The rocks are placed "perfectly" in the tank and stuck together with aquamend so I do not want to remove them. I have been dosing Tech M for a couple of weeks now with little change.
Btw it's a 120 with no fish or corals (all in a 40 breeder) only a couple of crabs and some nassarius and Cerith snails
I plan on doing the in tank 1ml per gallon. Question is how many days of dosing?
Ok update:
3 weeks and I dosed a total of 32oz of peroxide with some improvement. About 4 days ago I hooked up a reactor with some GFO. Wow instantly made a difference. The algae got a lot lighter, almost white.
After thinking about having 0 phosphates. I realized that I never treated the sand so the PO4 leached from the sand into the rocks. Oh well, I did a 60 gallon water change today and we'll see how it goes. I'll post pics once I get the canopy back on
adnup
New member
My 180 that's just recently been setup has gotten bryopsis from a seed rock. It's quickly going crazy over the lighted portion of the tank. It's on the overflows and the glass - Can I dose directly? I have no livestock.
adnup
New member
That's what I did. Started out with 3ml per then just started dumping it in. The bryopsis got much lighter in color but it wasn't until I ran the GFO that I saw a huge difference. A couple of days after my above pic I got in there with a tooth brush and it all brushed away. Here we are 11 days later and no regrowth I've even started adding some corals :dance:
brandon429
Active member
Adnup thank you for -striking- before and after pics. May I have permission to repost those, with credit, on other peroxide threads
adnup
New member
Yes please do. It worked great!
I was hoping you would share your experience, I actually found this thread from your original post.
I didn't measure a thing. I just had my wife bring home 3 bottles - I didn't realize there was nearly 1000ML's in a bottle. I didn't measure as there is nothing living in the tank but marco rock. I dosed last night, I will try to wait until tomorrow to dose again.
I appreciate your feedback and will plan to get some GFO online soon. No FTS, but I grabbed a couple from my phone. It's really bad in person, some 6" long....
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brandon429
Active member
Did you grab some before pics ~
Your cycle info is helpful to know since you overdosed, those against peroxide use in the tank are just certain a slight overdose is antibiotic
its not
Nebraska if you have fed your reef or maintained life in it/no ammonia since the overdose that is helpful proof this stuff isn't nuclear/mega risky. People online against it, in recent posts, have taken up cause recently to say we are harming things in our tank.
Mine has never looked better and i'm all 35% now...in a gallon sps reef.
Also, I wish Napi Napoli would update, his tank was a challenge.
Your cycle info is helpful to know since you overdosed, those against peroxide use in the tank are just certain a slight overdose is antibiotic
its not
Nebraska if you have fed your reef or maintained life in it/no ammonia since the overdose that is helpful proof this stuff isn't nuclear/mega risky. People online against it, in recent posts, have taken up cause recently to say we are harming things in our tank.
Mine has never looked better and i'm all 35% now...in a gallon sps reef.
Also, I wish Napi Napoli would update, his tank was a challenge.
Ill grab some updated pictures this weekend but in short.....this works for real. I haven't lost anything live in the tank, albiet only zoas and pods but its something.
I'm putting in a fish order this week and won't hesitate to put them in my "overdosed" tank. Lol people can say what they want but i am a believer .
I'm putting in a fish order this week and won't hesitate to put them in my "overdosed" tank. Lol people can say what they want but i am a believer .
brandon429
Active member
Sure its a common method. I have no problem with it, the only reason I don't use it is direct kill seems easier, if someone recommended carbon dosing/vodka i'm fine with that.
It works by boosting bacteria colonies said to increase fixation of excess nutrients. Its taking a community that exists in a smaller mass in tanks where the total carbon addition is daily feeding, and boosting them to larger masses with the intention of binding n and p better than with natural balances(more carbon input sequesters more nitrogen and phosphorous via bacterial mass). Its cool science i'm for it if someone likes it.
Id contrast direct kill options with prevention methods like carbon dosing/phosphate binders like gfo by saying direct kill methodologies allow you to work within the realm of average nutrient measures instead of constantly striving for perfect params. Both methods can suffer from overdose and threads exist on both sides of the equation revealing similar tank stresses (both overdoing peroxide and gfo/vodka dosing can bleach corals for example)
I'll stake a claim to this-
Peroxide dosing is no more legitimate or ill-legitimate than carbon dosing, using binding media, sulfur based nitrate reducers, bio beads etc
These are all part of what I call the new wave of algae control, post 2000's. In the 2000's it was dsb and refugia
Like there are masters of different musical instruments, each of these methodologies has purveyors who wield them particularly well. This is the thread for prodigy peroxide ticklers.
It works by boosting bacteria colonies said to increase fixation of excess nutrients. Its taking a community that exists in a smaller mass in tanks where the total carbon addition is daily feeding, and boosting them to larger masses with the intention of binding n and p better than with natural balances(more carbon input sequesters more nitrogen and phosphorous via bacterial mass). Its cool science i'm for it if someone likes it.
Id contrast direct kill options with prevention methods like carbon dosing/phosphate binders like gfo by saying direct kill methodologies allow you to work within the realm of average nutrient measures instead of constantly striving for perfect params. Both methods can suffer from overdose and threads exist on both sides of the equation revealing similar tank stresses (both overdoing peroxide and gfo/vodka dosing can bleach corals for example)
I'll stake a claim to this-
Peroxide dosing is no more legitimate or ill-legitimate than carbon dosing, using binding media, sulfur based nitrate reducers, bio beads etc
These are all part of what I call the new wave of algae control, post 2000's. In the 2000's it was dsb and refugia
Like there are masters of different musical instruments, each of these methodologies has purveyors who wield them particularly well. This is the thread for prodigy peroxide ticklers.
Aquaman101
New member
Brandon429, what is the latest recommendation for a full tank application? You've seen my other post regarding a 10 blackout. I've tried the 1ml per 10 gallon trick before to get rid of Dino's and it didn't work for me. Shall I double it? I have sps, lps, softies and clams in my tank. I can't take the rocks out unfortunately
brandon429
Active member
Excellent! a true challenge.
You have more coral to worry about compared to that really bad red cyano thread where we can just burn it out
But that's the heart of the challenge, max results under constraints thanks for posting
Can you post a full tank shot, critical detail is found in them.
Also, was the bottle a new/unopened bottle of 3% peroxide from a pharmacy or grocery store, no where else? I say it like that because twice now the poster said it was a new bottle and after pages of analysis it turned out it might have been opened before, they didn't think it was really that important to have a new bottle.
We need to do two things along with your updated full tank shot
-not just broadcast dose the tank, take the amount you are using and spot inject it underwater right on the Dino strand test group of your choosing, with pumps turned off to maximize contact time
I found ways of maximizing the dose being used before upping the dosage, using a new bottle and changing the application approach to a submerged spot treatment test with pumps off for a few minutes.
Ideally, get a true medical syringe and needle for injecting if you can. Drug abusers have ruined our ability to get these for such legitimate science use...most places won't sell but some will.
There are new tools that are -great-for peroxide injection, thirty bucks, google
'Julian Sprungs thing coral feeder'
Direct contact time, even if briefly underwater with no current, massively boosts the effectiveness of an initial known safe dose you have already tried
If a new spot test shows quick rebound, or no effect, we have other choices and one involves upping the dosage or the percentage of peroxide.
The best way is to get a pic, spot test using this method until we see dieoff begin and then ironically stop dosing.
Don't keep pumping in the max safe dose we can see will elicit a reaction in the target; you stop dosing when an effect can be measured/seen and take time to manually clean/remove/siphon all the Dino out of your tank one last time
Now you know the preventative dose and you inject that amount now generally into the tank a few times to hit any regrowths in hiding, or if you see a new patch arise after this last thorough manual removal.
Based on full tank shot pics, that's what i'm about to recommend
You have more coral to worry about compared to that really bad red cyano thread where we can just burn it out
But that's the heart of the challenge, max results under constraints thanks for posting
Can you post a full tank shot, critical detail is found in them.
Also, was the bottle a new/unopened bottle of 3% peroxide from a pharmacy or grocery store, no where else? I say it like that because twice now the poster said it was a new bottle and after pages of analysis it turned out it might have been opened before, they didn't think it was really that important to have a new bottle.
We need to do two things along with your updated full tank shot
-not just broadcast dose the tank, take the amount you are using and spot inject it underwater right on the Dino strand test group of your choosing, with pumps turned off to maximize contact time
I found ways of maximizing the dose being used before upping the dosage, using a new bottle and changing the application approach to a submerged spot treatment test with pumps off for a few minutes.
Ideally, get a true medical syringe and needle for injecting if you can. Drug abusers have ruined our ability to get these for such legitimate science use...most places won't sell but some will.
There are new tools that are -great-for peroxide injection, thirty bucks, google
'Julian Sprungs thing coral feeder'
Direct contact time, even if briefly underwater with no current, massively boosts the effectiveness of an initial known safe dose you have already tried
If a new spot test shows quick rebound, or no effect, we have other choices and one involves upping the dosage or the percentage of peroxide.
The best way is to get a pic, spot test using this method until we see dieoff begin and then ironically stop dosing.
Don't keep pumping in the max safe dose we can see will elicit a reaction in the target; you stop dosing when an effect can be measured/seen and take time to manually clean/remove/siphon all the Dino out of your tank one last time
Now you know the preventative dose and you inject that amount now generally into the tank a few times to hit any regrowths in hiding, or if you see a new patch arise after this last thorough manual removal.
Based on full tank shot pics, that's what i'm about to recommend
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laugh
Member of the Registry
My tank is just over 1 year old. GHA is finally dying back but I am starting to get lots of green and red bubble algae and some bryopsis. Some of my rocks are just too large and epoxied together to remove. I was considering doing some in tank spot treatments but I have a blood shrimp, crocea clam, fromia star, and RBTA . The tank is a 35 hex so it wouldn't be to difficult to drain most of the water for treatment.
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seriously though it does work but would be worried about some of your stuff..
