pico reef pest algae problem challenge
- Thread starter brandon429
- Start date
brandon429
Active member
And Ive started posting a few inverse takeaways Im getting off reading that thread...here is one
if any of us here who have heard for years that peroxide is dangerous and unpredictable had a 100 gallon mixed reef, and you had to instantly dump 64 ounces of one of these chemicals into it, which will you choose?
-kalk
-vodka
-peroxide 3%
-magnesium
-two part additive
-gfo
perhaps peroxide is the weakest caustic per unit of measure and everyone has had it backwards all this time? I dunno...they did it with pico reefs what makes the old science any more immune to mis calls. That overdose thread was a joy imo. much easier said if not my corals lol but the fact he documented all of that is so incredibly helpful because no one would have gathered that data on purpose.
if any of us here who have heard for years that peroxide is dangerous and unpredictable had a 100 gallon mixed reef, and you had to instantly dump 64 ounces of one of these chemicals into it, which will you choose?
-kalk
-vodka
-peroxide 3%
-magnesium
-two part additive
-gfo
perhaps peroxide is the weakest caustic per unit of measure and everyone has had it backwards all this time? I dunno...they did it with pico reefs what makes the old science any more immune to mis calls. That overdose thread was a joy imo. much easier said if not my corals lol but the fact he documented all of that is so incredibly helpful because no one would have gathered that data on purpose.
goldfish69
New member
Hi Brandon - great thread and thank you for helping everyone out.Spores never concerned me all these years I'll tell you why...even though I don't have consistent sporulation data for each species battling them without regard to sporulation has never done me wrong
the valonia everyone is most concerned about turns out is actually least likely to sporulate. everyone assumes they are in the vacuole...online its kind of a requisite for having them...that if you pop them they will spread
but crabs can't eat them whole, they have to pop them to eat them. and mithrax crabs don't cause the spread of valonia, they help stop it, that was the first of the new evident proofs that sporulation as a go-to risk was overstated.
After some hearty online debates about valonia and sporulation, I spent hours on the web finding proof pro or con. I found one article from a real marine plant expert who said when its time to reproduce, spores can form in some areas of the regenerative cells, but its a timed event, they arent carried at all times. in the cell vacuole is water and bits of leftovers from this and that an nearly all other times, so when crabs split them open harmless bits float out into the tank.
regarding all other algae, we purely ignore sporulation to get the results we've collected here, its a huge non issue so have fun treating any way you want that is safe for your tank!!
I'm currently battling 2 algae issues (#1 - lobophora; #2 - green bubble algae) in my 100G tank.
I will try to treat #1 as you suggested with H2O2 and posting before/after pictures with the results.
I would be curious if you could post a link to the article about valonia and its timed sporulation - from all that I have been reading about bubble algae, everyone is saying not to pop them or more pores will be released in the tank.
brandon429
Active member
It was a forum post as well, but from a guy you could tell wasnt joking when he said he worked with plants or microbiology at a university. I think Id have an easier time finding the thread in the nr peroxide post. that one day all I did was google for a little while will try again sunday perhaps and repost it fresh up top here.
either way, id like forum posters to report back how the algae is not popped during grazing by fish and crabs.
The best treatments for bubble algae have all been external treatments, page 9 or 12 had some before and after pics. and for your invasive macro, even without pics Im sure it will die all large macros are really senstiive.
we also had one tank that didnt respond as the algea simply grew back fast. it was my friend snakebyt from same home town...his tank was large like this one and it was hard to do external treatments to really burn it off, plus there was plenty of the target throughout the rocks I dont think we could access.
I feel better about the macro responding long term and it will not hurt to try both, can you post a full tank shot real quick its nice to start there so pics drive the thread and thanks for posting
either way, id like forum posters to report back how the algae is not popped during grazing by fish and crabs.
The best treatments for bubble algae have all been external treatments, page 9 or 12 had some before and after pics. and for your invasive macro, even without pics Im sure it will die all large macros are really senstiive.
we also had one tank that didnt respond as the algea simply grew back fast. it was my friend snakebyt from same home town...his tank was large like this one and it was hard to do external treatments to really burn it off, plus there was plenty of the target throughout the rocks I dont think we could access.
I feel better about the macro responding long term and it will not hurt to try both, can you post a full tank shot real quick its nice to start there so pics drive the thread and thanks for posting
goldfish69
New member
Okay here we go.
Okay here we go.
Sorry for the bad pictures - I only got an iphone to take them.
Full shot of tank (Pre-treatment) - Feb 08, 2013:
Close-up #1 - Hair Algae
Close-up #2 - Lobophora Algae
Took some rocks out and apply the 3% H2O2 undiluted and waited for 4 minutes. During the wait, I could hear some fizzing going on and could see some of the bubble algae popping.
Brush rocks, rinse rocks, repeat and put them back in Display tank. I could see some rocks started to create floating small bubbles in the DT.
Feb 09, 2013 - 24 hour after treatment:
Close-up #1 (rock above that was beside the brown algae - forgot to take a before picture of this rock):
Close-up #2 (Lobophora Algae):
Since the peroxide treatment, the algae has become a darker brown and showing some crust on it - will wait another 24 hours to see more results.
Definitely, I can say that the existing green hair algae is turning a lighter green and the bubble algae are also gone. I would like to see what will happen to the brown algae. My xenia seems to be affected by this as it's not open as usual.
I want to see and report more a long-term effect on this solution.
Thanks for reading.
Okay here we go.
Sorry for the bad pictures - I only got an iphone to take them.
Full shot of tank (Pre-treatment) - Feb 08, 2013:
Close-up #1 - Hair Algae
Close-up #2 - Lobophora Algae
Took some rocks out and apply the 3% H2O2 undiluted and waited for 4 minutes. During the wait, I could hear some fizzing going on and could see some of the bubble algae popping.
Brush rocks, rinse rocks, repeat and put them back in Display tank. I could see some rocks started to create floating small bubbles in the DT.
Feb 09, 2013 - 24 hour after treatment:
Close-up #1 (rock above that was beside the brown algae - forgot to take a before picture of this rock):
Close-up #2 (Lobophora Algae):
Since the peroxide treatment, the algae has become a darker brown and showing some crust on it - will wait another 24 hours to see more results.
Definitely, I can say that the existing green hair algae is turning a lighter green and the bubble algae are also gone. I would like to see what will happen to the brown algae. My xenia seems to be affected by this as it's not open as usual.
I want to see and report more a long-term effect on this solution.
Thanks for reading.
brandon429
Active member
Hey that is great documentation. Really helpful and concise steps w pics that show nice detail
Brandon429...I've read this... Thank You.
I've had salt tanks since the early 1970's and then took a vacation from them. Have quite a few planted tanks with co2 added can quickly turn into a algae jungle. When that happens we will spot dose with h2o2. So spoke prior to finding this thread with our LFG..he poopooed the idea of h2o2. But logic in me said it would. I currently have a nano been up about 18m, and all of the sudden hair algae starts..
After finding your thread here I took the path of separating the rocks with algae and dosing. The back wall had it growing also so drained the tank down below the algae line and scraped off into a net and disposed of it. Then took a piece of floss and poured some h2o2 on it and wiped the glass areas... Flooded the tank with old water to wash out and refilled.
We are algae free!!!! TYTYTY Karen
On a side note just bought a 14g oceanic cube...wanted to nip this before moving tanks..
I've had salt tanks since the early 1970's and then took a vacation from them. Have quite a few planted tanks with co2 added can quickly turn into a algae jungle. When that happens we will spot dose with h2o2. So spoke prior to finding this thread with our LFG..he poopooed the idea of h2o2. But logic in me said it would. I currently have a nano been up about 18m, and all of the sudden hair algae starts..
After finding your thread here I took the path of separating the rocks with algae and dosing. The back wall had it growing also so drained the tank down below the algae line and scraped off into a net and disposed of it. Then took a piece of floss and poured some h2o2 on it and wiped the glass areas... Flooded the tank with old water to wash out and refilled.
We are algae free!!!! TYTYTY Karen
On a side note just bought a 14g oceanic cube...wanted to nip this before moving tanks..
goldfish69
New member
Another update (After 6 days of treatment)
Another update (After 6 days of treatment)
After 6 days of treatment, the green hair algae has turned into a miserable white hair (Almost completely gone).
The H2O2 treatment has also been working on the brown algae which I struggle mightily to get rid of (Hopefully, it won't come back):
Close-up #1:
As you can see, the brown algae is starting to recede (it looks like they are more flaky now after treatment) and my snails can access it more easily.
Will send another update in a few weeks.
Cheers
Another update (After 6 days of treatment)
After 6 days of treatment, the green hair algae has turned into a miserable white hair (Almost completely gone).
The H2O2 treatment has also been working on the brown algae which I struggle mightily to get rid of (Hopefully, it won't come back):
Close-up #1:
As you can see, the brown algae is starting to recede (it looks like they are more flaky now after treatment) and my snails can access it more easily.
Will send another update in a few weeks.
Cheers
Hello been sent here from another forum due to the issues my little 30ltr tmc tank is having .
Just to let you know most of the algae is on the sandbed and only a bit on the lr
Really need some help with this , as its slowly taking over my little tank (30ltr)
Reading what i have found on the web it doesnt look like a very good outcome. If nothing can be done what is the best way forward? As i'm looking at a new tank in the next couple of months.
Is it best to shut this tank down and dispose of the corals and live rock? As i don't want to contaminate another tank with this algae. Can the lr be saved by drying it out ?
Here is a video i did today
http://youtu.be/mq1qSX9onKo
And here are the notes i was reading on the web... If i can save my little tank that would be good but reading this i don't think it is possible
Species Name: Botryocladia skottsbergii
Authority: (Børgesen) Levring, 1941
Common Name: Red Valonia
Range: Indian Ocean, Western, Central and Eastern Pacific, and the Mediterranean, with it arriving mostly in the aquarium trade from the Philippines on live rock and various coral specimens. It is also found in Hawaii, Maldives, America Samoa, Marshall Islands, and California waters
Natural Environment: This alga encrusts various types of substrate, whether living or not, and appears to do well in nutrient poor waters with little light intensity and under a wide range of temperatures
General Husbandry: There is about 48 species in this genus, with this alga, often called 'Red Valonia' by many in the hobby, a most devastating form. In the wild and aquaria it forms interconnected low growing bladders, which are filled with a syrup-like fluid. Growths, beginning with small red wine-colored bubbles, 2 - 10 mm in height, spread a base that erupts with new short-stemmed bubbles/bladders, with older bubbles often reaching heights of almost 1 cm (.5 inch). As its base spreads, it encroaches on living organisms, crowding them out and opening new substrate areas for its own growth.
When the syrup filled bubbles open, the liquid slowly flows into the surrounding water no doubt spreading new spores to other areas in the aquarium. In fact, once the bladder surface forms small spots, it is said to be ready for sexual reproduction, which seems from my sad experience with this species to occur within a couple of months of it forming new bladders. Nothing in the aquarium, including live corals, live rock or even aquariums side panels will escape these growths.
Unfortunately, the spread of new growths seem to also occur in systems with zero phosphates and near zero nitrates, therefore, its spread cannot be eliminated by maintaining high quality water parameters. Furthermore, I have not seen any of the well known algae consumers, such as various type urchins, crabs, sea hares, and well known herbivorous fish species even dent this alga species! And it even grows in shady areas! I have a suspicion that iodine additions may accelerate its growth or the alga itself naturally contains a high level of iodine resulting in a bad taste to grazers, but at this time it's only a theory.
Since there are no known predators of this invasive species, and I've tried several different small tangs, emerald crabs, sea hares, and urchins to no avail, under no circumstances should it be allowed to continue anywhere the aquarium! Unfortunately this means when first seen, whatever its on must be removed from the aquarium and wiped clean, with the area of removal flushed clean before replacement in the aquarium. And its far better to do this when first seen, as this species tends to spread quite quickly, as I've recently had one aquarium almost ruined in two years because of this alga! And only removal by hand, and continued removal of various items in the aquarium have allowed the system to continue
Potential Control Species: None!
The above post is what i put on a forum after reading your many pages of using peroxide this is what i have come up with
Really good read so far, but going slowly due to being at work lol First thing i did pick up is that he mentions taking the effected parts out and treating it rather than dosing the tank. Mine only has a couple of areas on the LR and the majority is on the sand bed.
This conclusion has led me thinking that if i set up a plastic storage box and fill it with 50% new salt water and 50% tank water then remove the rocks out of the tank and place them in the plastic box and treat . Then bin the old sand except for a bit that is unaffected then leave for a week and rebuild the tank.
What do you think waste of time or not a bad plan? Also where do i buy the peroxide from?
If you can think of a way i can sort the sand then please let me know.
Stock
1 clown fish
1 sexy shrimp
1 blood shrimp
1 pom pom crab
1 emerald crab
2 turbo snails
Many thanks jamie
Just to let you know most of the algae is on the sandbed and only a bit on the lr
Really need some help with this , as its slowly taking over my little tank (30ltr)
Reading what i have found on the web it doesnt look like a very good outcome. If nothing can be done what is the best way forward? As i'm looking at a new tank in the next couple of months.
Is it best to shut this tank down and dispose of the corals and live rock? As i don't want to contaminate another tank with this algae. Can the lr be saved by drying it out ?
Here is a video i did today
http://youtu.be/mq1qSX9onKo
And here are the notes i was reading on the web... If i can save my little tank that would be good but reading this i don't think it is possible
Species Name: Botryocladia skottsbergii
Authority: (Børgesen) Levring, 1941
Common Name: Red Valonia
Range: Indian Ocean, Western, Central and Eastern Pacific, and the Mediterranean, with it arriving mostly in the aquarium trade from the Philippines on live rock and various coral specimens. It is also found in Hawaii, Maldives, America Samoa, Marshall Islands, and California waters
Natural Environment: This alga encrusts various types of substrate, whether living or not, and appears to do well in nutrient poor waters with little light intensity and under a wide range of temperatures
General Husbandry: There is about 48 species in this genus, with this alga, often called 'Red Valonia' by many in the hobby, a most devastating form. In the wild and aquaria it forms interconnected low growing bladders, which are filled with a syrup-like fluid. Growths, beginning with small red wine-colored bubbles, 2 - 10 mm in height, spread a base that erupts with new short-stemmed bubbles/bladders, with older bubbles often reaching heights of almost 1 cm (.5 inch). As its base spreads, it encroaches on living organisms, crowding them out and opening new substrate areas for its own growth.
When the syrup filled bubbles open, the liquid slowly flows into the surrounding water no doubt spreading new spores to other areas in the aquarium. In fact, once the bladder surface forms small spots, it is said to be ready for sexual reproduction, which seems from my sad experience with this species to occur within a couple of months of it forming new bladders. Nothing in the aquarium, including live corals, live rock or even aquariums side panels will escape these growths.
Unfortunately, the spread of new growths seem to also occur in systems with zero phosphates and near zero nitrates, therefore, its spread cannot be eliminated by maintaining high quality water parameters. Furthermore, I have not seen any of the well known algae consumers, such as various type urchins, crabs, sea hares, and well known herbivorous fish species even dent this alga species! And it even grows in shady areas! I have a suspicion that iodine additions may accelerate its growth or the alga itself naturally contains a high level of iodine resulting in a bad taste to grazers, but at this time it's only a theory.
Since there are no known predators of this invasive species, and I've tried several different small tangs, emerald crabs, sea hares, and urchins to no avail, under no circumstances should it be allowed to continue anywhere the aquarium! Unfortunately this means when first seen, whatever its on must be removed from the aquarium and wiped clean, with the area of removal flushed clean before replacement in the aquarium. And its far better to do this when first seen, as this species tends to spread quite quickly, as I've recently had one aquarium almost ruined in two years because of this alga! And only removal by hand, and continued removal of various items in the aquarium have allowed the system to continue
Potential Control Species: None!
The above post is what i put on a forum after reading your many pages of using peroxide this is what i have come up with
Really good read so far, but going slowly due to being at work lol First thing i did pick up is that he mentions taking the effected parts out and treating it rather than dosing the tank. Mine only has a couple of areas on the LR and the majority is on the sand bed.
This conclusion has led me thinking that if i set up a plastic storage box and fill it with 50% new salt water and 50% tank water then remove the rocks out of the tank and place them in the plastic box and treat . Then bin the old sand except for a bit that is unaffected then leave for a week and rebuild the tank.
What do you think waste of time or not a bad plan? Also where do i buy the peroxide from?
If you can think of a way i can sort the sand then please let me know.
Stock
1 clown fish
1 sexy shrimp
1 blood shrimp
1 pom pom crab
1 emerald crab
2 turbo snails
Many thanks jamie
brandon429
Active member
Bigbore thanks for posting that, indeed it is a great challenge and I have some ideas.
Your sensitive animal is the blood shrimp, its a possible loss if even diluted peroxide comes into contact...but considering the cost of the total system we have to evaluate potential collateral losses. I do not think you have to start over, we can beat this.
For a reference on peroxide treatment on your type of invader, we happen to have some thorough pics already on file here. Patrick Cox had a large elegance coral heavily infected with it. it took multiple treatments to knock it back, the picture succession shows a defeat over a couple weeks.
I buy my peroxide 3% from the grocery store in the medical aisle.
pharmacies are ok too
On your live rock treatments I have a simpler idea, lift out any section of LR that has the target and simply hold it over the sink and pour on peroxide where it goes, avoiding the coral areas. no need to dip the whole live rock in treated water, this applies peroxide to non target areas and should be saved for really bad full coverage issues. For the substrate this may sound crazy, but its just cheaper to replace it in my opinion. The same treatments could be applied to it, but its easier to just put your animals in a holding tank, treat the LR outside the tank, buy a whole new substrate and put everything back in.
Your substrate has obviously a bacterial complement to aid in filtration/oxidation...but we find it to be inconsequential which is how bare bottom tanks with the same bioload as yours get by...options that exist are:
1. replace with a precycled substrate, Ive used caribsea arrive alive for a decade now. some people viewing the video might have recommended a smaller grain substrate for you anyway, to avoid detritus accumulations. Not that it looked bad in your tank...I thought your tank looked great even with the color of the gelidium/target all around. it was a very nice video, much more colorful than my tank!@
2. Simply rinse out a new portion of the substrate you like so it wont have a lot of dust, and put it in uncycled. It is inconsequential, your filtration media and huge component of bacteria in the live rock will remain and do just fine.
3. with all your rock removed to ensure you are getting all the available biomass, simply lift out and discard the portions of your existing substrate that have the invader attached. replace with new portions...this will likely require updated removals from time to time as its almost certain little portions of biomass exist down low that you cant see and will reinfect areas of the tank.
Other details I predict from working with this invader you might find helpful:
-it is a slow kill after a peroxide treatment, but it will die. It can even required a second treatment in certain spots to effect the dieoff of that spot. Dieoff is 6-8 days after an application, its really slow. It will look like peroxide had no effect in the first few days. the telltale sign it will die is when this red algae shifts to a bright pink coloration which is the pre bleaching stages. I linked Patricks treatment around to a few sites, will re link that here so we dont have to search these 40 pages to find it
What I really like to do on these big infestations is just post what I think, compare to what you like, and start slow with a few treatments nothing as a big commitment. Your corals are not particularly sensitive, its just that shrimp...so we are rather free to begin some initial work. the replacement of the sandbed is a pretty big step, Id like to hold off on big steps until we decide a good game plan based on the brainstorming and a few initial tests to check response time specific to this invader, what do you think of those ideas?
B
Your sensitive animal is the blood shrimp, its a possible loss if even diluted peroxide comes into contact...but considering the cost of the total system we have to evaluate potential collateral losses. I do not think you have to start over, we can beat this.
For a reference on peroxide treatment on your type of invader, we happen to have some thorough pics already on file here. Patrick Cox had a large elegance coral heavily infected with it. it took multiple treatments to knock it back, the picture succession shows a defeat over a couple weeks.
I buy my peroxide 3% from the grocery store in the medical aisle.
pharmacies are ok too
On your live rock treatments I have a simpler idea, lift out any section of LR that has the target and simply hold it over the sink and pour on peroxide where it goes, avoiding the coral areas. no need to dip the whole live rock in treated water, this applies peroxide to non target areas and should be saved for really bad full coverage issues. For the substrate this may sound crazy, but its just cheaper to replace it in my opinion. The same treatments could be applied to it, but its easier to just put your animals in a holding tank, treat the LR outside the tank, buy a whole new substrate and put everything back in.
Your substrate has obviously a bacterial complement to aid in filtration/oxidation...but we find it to be inconsequential which is how bare bottom tanks with the same bioload as yours get by...options that exist are:
1. replace with a precycled substrate, Ive used caribsea arrive alive for a decade now. some people viewing the video might have recommended a smaller grain substrate for you anyway, to avoid detritus accumulations. Not that it looked bad in your tank...I thought your tank looked great even with the color of the gelidium/target all around. it was a very nice video, much more colorful than my tank!@
2. Simply rinse out a new portion of the substrate you like so it wont have a lot of dust, and put it in uncycled. It is inconsequential, your filtration media and huge component of bacteria in the live rock will remain and do just fine.
3. with all your rock removed to ensure you are getting all the available biomass, simply lift out and discard the portions of your existing substrate that have the invader attached. replace with new portions...this will likely require updated removals from time to time as its almost certain little portions of biomass exist down low that you cant see and will reinfect areas of the tank.
Other details I predict from working with this invader you might find helpful:
-it is a slow kill after a peroxide treatment, but it will die. It can even required a second treatment in certain spots to effect the dieoff of that spot. Dieoff is 6-8 days after an application, its really slow. It will look like peroxide had no effect in the first few days. the telltale sign it will die is when this red algae shifts to a bright pink coloration which is the pre bleaching stages. I linked Patricks treatment around to a few sites, will re link that here so we dont have to search these 40 pages to find it
What I really like to do on these big infestations is just post what I think, compare to what you like, and start slow with a few treatments nothing as a big commitment. Your corals are not particularly sensitive, its just that shrimp...so we are rather free to begin some initial work. the replacement of the sandbed is a pretty big step, Id like to hold off on big steps until we decide a good game plan based on the brainstorming and a few initial tests to check response time specific to this invader, what do you think of those ideas?
B
All right guys, I will jump into this thread and share my experience. Please excuse the long post. I have attached a video for you viewing pleasure. Note the video was shot with no lights on and a flashlight lighting up the tank. When my LED's and T-5s are on it is too blue to really see the algae.
Some info on my tank. 300 total gallons. I have a 180 display tank, one 75 gallon refugium, one 75 gallon sump, one 40 gallon frag tank all on the same system. The sump 75 gallon is only half full. So my refugium is stocked with the greenest most beautiful calupera you will ever find. I started with a softball size ball of it and it completely covers my entire upper layer of my 75.
I test my water weekly, I use a Hanna meter. Not the cheap hanna checker but the full blown Hanna test kit for phosphate. My phosphate is 0.04-0.05. My nitrate is 0. My Mag is 1400, my alk 7.7 and my calcium 350.
I have had this tank established for 18 months after moving a 8 year old reef from Virginia to Florida. All new sand, all new rock for my existing corals. All new fish. I run a royal exclusiv 250 skimmer.
I am OCD on cleaning my tank and running correct levels. I clean my skimmer, pumps, etc religiously. I do weekly water changes. I test my ro/DI water TDS all the time, I change out filters. About the only things I haven't done lately is change my t-5 bulbs. They are about 8 months old. I
I have gotten the typical well you need to find the source of your problem blah blah blah. I have seen guys that neglect their tank for months and never check levels and never do water changes and have the most pristine conditions in reef tanks. My nitrate tests 0, my phosphate is not crazy high. It is frustrating and that is why I am on this thread because there isn't the holy rollers preaching my husbandry sucks.
This video is AFTER the following treatment:
I had hair algae much like you see in the following video. So I took half the rock out at a time and proceeded to do the following treatment. I filled a 5 gallon bucket with 4 16 oz bottles of H2O2 3% and rodi water. I soaked them for 48 hours. I then soaked the same rocks in diluted bleach solution for 48 hours. I then soaked in regular water with prime chlorine remover. I then soaked for 48 hours in distilled white vinegar and finally another 48 hours in rodi water. I then powerwashed the algae off of the rocks until nothing was left but sparkling white base rock.
I then let them air dry for 48 hours and placed back in the tank and did the same procedure with the other half of the rocks.
Viola! Good as new base rock. After one month my rock looks like you see in the video.
After reading this entire thread, I did indeed use the H2O2 fresh from the store immediately on the rock. I am not sure what my dilution is on the 5 gallon bucket.
I am going to try removing rocks again and using a 35% solution. the local health food store is getting some in tomorrow so I will purchase and try on one of the big rocks that have no coral. I have read the precautions on eye and skin wear. I will post a video of the progress following treatment.
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Some info on my tank. 300 total gallons. I have a 180 display tank, one 75 gallon refugium, one 75 gallon sump, one 40 gallon frag tank all on the same system. The sump 75 gallon is only half full. So my refugium is stocked with the greenest most beautiful calupera you will ever find. I started with a softball size ball of it and it completely covers my entire upper layer of my 75.
I test my water weekly, I use a Hanna meter. Not the cheap hanna checker but the full blown Hanna test kit for phosphate. My phosphate is 0.04-0.05. My nitrate is 0. My Mag is 1400, my alk 7.7 and my calcium 350.
I have had this tank established for 18 months after moving a 8 year old reef from Virginia to Florida. All new sand, all new rock for my existing corals. All new fish. I run a royal exclusiv 250 skimmer.
I am OCD on cleaning my tank and running correct levels. I clean my skimmer, pumps, etc religiously. I do weekly water changes. I test my ro/DI water TDS all the time, I change out filters. About the only things I haven't done lately is change my t-5 bulbs. They are about 8 months old. I
I have gotten the typical well you need to find the source of your problem blah blah blah. I have seen guys that neglect their tank for months and never check levels and never do water changes and have the most pristine conditions in reef tanks. My nitrate tests 0, my phosphate is not crazy high. It is frustrating and that is why I am on this thread because there isn't the holy rollers preaching my husbandry sucks.
This video is AFTER the following treatment:
I had hair algae much like you see in the following video. So I took half the rock out at a time and proceeded to do the following treatment. I filled a 5 gallon bucket with 4 16 oz bottles of H2O2 3% and rodi water. I soaked them for 48 hours. I then soaked the same rocks in diluted bleach solution for 48 hours. I then soaked in regular water with prime chlorine remover. I then soaked for 48 hours in distilled white vinegar and finally another 48 hours in rodi water. I then powerwashed the algae off of the rocks until nothing was left but sparkling white base rock.
I then let them air dry for 48 hours and placed back in the tank and did the same procedure with the other half of the rocks.
Viola! Good as new base rock. After one month my rock looks like you see in the video.
After reading this entire thread, I did indeed use the H2O2 fresh from the store immediately on the rock. I am not sure what my dilution is on the 5 gallon bucket.
I am going to try removing rocks again and using a 35% solution. the local health food store is getting some in tomorrow so I will purchase and try on one of the big rocks that have no coral. I have read the precautions on eye and skin wear. I will post a video of the progress following treatment.
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Hey Brandon. You've probably answered this question a million times, but I thought I'd pile on. I've got some green algae and bryo that are starting to dominate the low lying areas in my tank. I've tried manual removal, but it grows faster than I can pull it out. I've added some turbo snails and such, but they're not that interested. So I'm curious about the H202 method. I got a bottle of peroxide from CVS with a spray on applicator, but does it need to be diluted, or do you do full strength?
Here are a couple photos. I'll do some Afters if your method works!
Here are a couple photos. I'll do some Afters if your method works!
Anthony.Luciano
New member
The hydrogen peroxide seems to work great for hair algae. For bryo which was my main problem in my 450 I poured literally gallons of hydrogen peroxide without it doing a dent. So I ordered 64oz of Kent Tech M magnesium supplement and it worked wonders. No measurements or anything. You see the size of your tank just pour until you think you went just a little over the safe limit. Thats what I did every 2 days for about 2 weeks and the rocks are spotless with no harm done at all to anything in the tank. If you do prefer to measure I read somewhere to keep your mag at about 1700-1750ppm for 3 weeks to eradicate it completely.
Hey Brandon. You've probably answered this question a million times, but I thought I'd pile on. I've got some green algae and bryo that are starting to dominate the low lying areas in my tank. I've tried manual removal, but it grows faster than I can pull it out. I've added some turbo snails and such, but they're not that interested. So I'm curious about the H202 method. I got a bottle of peroxide from CVS with a spray on applicator, but does it need to be diluted, or do you do full strength?
Here are a couple photos. I'll do some Afters if your method works!
brandon429
Active member
Hey guys I knew you wouldnt let the thread die permanently gracias and nice to see your tank cnsee
I need to know if you can simply lift out the rock this problem is on, looks like you can. That changes things drastically vs a whole tank dosing and works wonders on all kinds.
The bryopsis in tank methods I truly agree are so so, for all methods. Several of our posters here are ex mg boosters where it didn't work, or maybe they weren't high enough ppm etc, but either way both sides of the coin have pro and con outcomes.
I too would use kent tech m if ever needed, there are enough success stories its a viable approach to consider if you must do in tank dosings.
So for this tank above, if you can't lift out the rocks, can you drain the water out and then refill it if needed? everyone says they want to do a whole tank dosing, but its not the right start. if you want your problem fixed, access those areas with no water, how can we get that done and then we'll know the dilution...so far, the corals in the pics are not sensitive to an undiluted amount. need full tank shot
Anthony thanks for posting man and be sure and let us know if you say -any- death from unintended targets using either method.
the latest and greatest battles against peroxide have been the continual ongoing saga of predictions that whole tank dosing is killing unintended organisms, or liberating metals into the water as peroxide complexes with organic waste.
To this day my reefbowl is better than ever.
I need to know if you can simply lift out the rock this problem is on, looks like you can. That changes things drastically vs a whole tank dosing and works wonders on all kinds.
The bryopsis in tank methods I truly agree are so so, for all methods. Several of our posters here are ex mg boosters where it didn't work, or maybe they weren't high enough ppm etc, but either way both sides of the coin have pro and con outcomes.
I too would use kent tech m if ever needed, there are enough success stories its a viable approach to consider if you must do in tank dosings.
So for this tank above, if you can't lift out the rocks, can you drain the water out and then refill it if needed? everyone says they want to do a whole tank dosing, but its not the right start. if you want your problem fixed, access those areas with no water, how can we get that done and then we'll know the dilution...so far, the corals in the pics are not sensitive to an undiluted amount. need full tank shot
Anthony thanks for posting man and be sure and let us know if you say -any- death from unintended targets using either method.
the latest and greatest battles against peroxide have been the continual ongoing saga of predictions that whole tank dosing is killing unintended organisms, or liberating metals into the water as peroxide complexes with organic waste.
To this day my reefbowl is better than ever.
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brandon429
Active member
excellent. just pull a test rock and apply it, no big commitment yet. thats a nice thing about spot treatments, you dont have to do your whole tank at once, just pick an ornery spot thats up top, easy to get to, and take it out.
try to spray only on the target, let sit two mins, rinse reinstall
this lets you accomplish several things:
easy quick work, not two hours of rescaping
we can gauge grow back/po4 levels indirectly as bound to substrate if thats the case, before you have pulled your whole tank
corals aren't totally tested by this easy spot treat
you can see how long it takes to die off vs just guessing
based on some limited test results after two weeks, You'll have a great indicator of how the treatment will work for your unique tank variables
pls post before and after shots of the test area!
try to spray only on the target, let sit two mins, rinse reinstall
this lets you accomplish several things:
easy quick work, not two hours of rescaping
we can gauge grow back/po4 levels indirectly as bound to substrate if thats the case, before you have pulled your whole tank
corals aren't totally tested by this easy spot treat
you can see how long it takes to die off vs just guessing
based on some limited test results after two weeks, You'll have a great indicator of how the treatment will work for your unique tank variables
pls post before and after shots of the test area!
brandon429
Active member
sure, if you are only hitting the algae. others have painted it on in place, or used a dropper. the sprayer is good for large coverage areas, can you post a full tank shot
thats the benefit of the external treatment, the peroxide only contacts the target depending on how you apply
you can dilute it down and spray across the corals, but thats like doing an in tank treatment it circumvents the speed of kill we get from nondiluted runs. there are many ways to apply it without contacting any coral.
thats the benefit of the external treatment, the peroxide only contacts the target depending on how you apply
you can dilute it down and spray across the corals, but thats like doing an in tank treatment it circumvents the speed of kill we get from nondiluted runs. there are many ways to apply it without contacting any coral.
