how far away can i mount the ghl controller in regards to my sump/display?? one thing that worries me about using the profilux for water changes is that unless you use the dosers for it how does it perform a slow water change and know exactly what amounts are being removed and added.....is anyone here using it to do water changes and ato??
Profilux 3EX-My Review and Set Up Guide
- Thread starter this is me
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this is me
Active member
The controller can be mounted as far as the CAT5 and your probe cables allow. 10' maybe(?) Why is this a concern? As long as you hook up the controller to be on the network, you can program it via a computer anywhere in the house wirelessly or anywhere in the world( with data network) for that matter. Firmware upgrade still need to be hardwire though(USB) at the moment.
There's a lot of ways to do things in the Profilux depending on your need. I would come up with exactly what you trying to do and find a way to implement it. Using the doser to draw water out and pump water in without any sensors is a fail approach IMO. You can tell one pump to pump out X amount of water and another pump to pump in X amount of water but there's really no safety and the amount of water that need to be pumped in will be more than the amount of water being pumped out due to evaporation.
@this is me
good point....im sure i can make it work....my only issue is where i have my rodi and saltwater mixer buckets is in the room behind my sump and to the one side by 8 feet....so my travel distance for the lines (ato rodi, new saltwater, old saltwater)is up 6 feet, over 8 or 9, and back down 6-7 feet....i know even a mj would pump this distance but i am also worried about siphoning....i guess i could easily fix this by going into a larger drain and letting that take it down into sump.....i just really want to automate my waterchanges and start doing small amounts every day and was honestly thinking of going with a lm 3 but they are pricey enough just to be able to do water changes so i figured i have always wanted a profilux so bad but was not really too sure how accurate and precise or if the profilux would even be able to perform this task at all.....i would love to talk to someone who uses it to do water changes
good point....im sure i can make it work....my only issue is where i have my rodi and saltwater mixer buckets is in the room behind my sump and to the one side by 8 feet....so my travel distance for the lines (ato rodi, new saltwater, old saltwater)is up 6 feet, over 8 or 9, and back down 6-7 feet....i know even a mj would pump this distance but i am also worried about siphoning....i guess i could easily fix this by going into a larger drain and letting that take it down into sump.....i just really want to automate my waterchanges and start doing small amounts every day and was honestly thinking of going with a lm 3 but they are pricey enough just to be able to do water changes so i figured i have always wanted a profilux so bad but was not really too sure how accurate and precise or if the profilux would even be able to perform this task at all.....i would love to talk to someone who uses it to do water changes
AQD_ottawa
New member
To give you some guidelines on cable lengths with Profilux
PAB data cable (used for power bars and other PAB devices) = tested 300ft, 400ft has been achieved.
Level sensor (using extension VTN-5's) tested to 50 ft
Temperature sensor - as above
Other probes - approx 12 feet, extension BN-2m is the extension cord.
Options for sensors closer to remote sumps etc - Expansion box module.
PAB data cable (used for power bars and other PAB devices) = tested 300ft, 400ft has been achieved.
Level sensor (using extension VTN-5's) tested to 50 ft
Temperature sensor - as above
Other probes - approx 12 feet, extension BN-2m is the extension cord.
Options for sensors closer to remote sumps etc - Expansion box module.
AQD_ottawa
New member
Well the ability is there, read this trhead, this actually takes it to a second level of complexity which is not overly required. its a bit of an older thread but it gives you a major insight to how well the GHL does water changes
Basically putting it GHL will outperfom any third party device and will be cheaper based on accessories required.
http://forum.aquariumcomputer.com/showthread.php?3-How-To-Automatic-water-change
Basically putting it GHL will outperfom any third party device and will be cheaper based on accessories required.
http://forum.aquariumcomputer.com/showthread.php?3-How-To-Automatic-water-change
AQD_ottawa
New member
To give a more basic run down
You need
2 x level sensors
2 x water pumps
sensor 1 (top sensor) will act as ATO snesor and upper level sensor for AWC
Sensor 2 acts as lower level water senor for AWC
How it works
You set a date and time when you wish the water change to happen, at this time the pump out (waste) pump will switch on and drop your water level to the pre defined level you set level 2 sensor to
At this time of actuation of L2 the waste pump will switch off and L2 will signal for the refill pump (new NSW) to be pumped back in.
You then have a catloague of fail safe options available to you from max on time settings if a sensor stayied in open state for too long to other fancy fail safes.
You also as stated above can use Level 1 sensor (top sensor) for ATO, I do this by having an RO solenoid in the line of the RO, so when the level drops outside that of the water change time Level 1 sensor will actuate the RO solenoid filling the system with RO water.
Here again you have all the fails safes available to you.
You need
2 x level sensors
2 x water pumps
sensor 1 (top sensor) will act as ATO snesor and upper level sensor for AWC
Sensor 2 acts as lower level water senor for AWC
How it works
You set a date and time when you wish the water change to happen, at this time the pump out (waste) pump will switch on and drop your water level to the pre defined level you set level 2 sensor to
At this time of actuation of L2 the waste pump will switch off and L2 will signal for the refill pump (new NSW) to be pumped back in.
You then have a catloague of fail safe options available to you from max on time settings if a sensor stayied in open state for too long to other fancy fail safes.
You also as stated above can use Level 1 sensor (top sensor) for ATO, I do this by having an RO solenoid in the line of the RO, so when the level drops outside that of the water change time Level 1 sensor will actuate the RO solenoid filling the system with RO water.
Here again you have all the fails safes available to you.
AQD_ottawa
New member
Sadly yes - It has no clue how to make a decent Latte' it always makes it with too much foam!
AQD_ottawa
New member
No they are different and dedicated to ProfiLux only. You only need one sensor for ATO, it is probably the most simplest but advanced set up on the unit.
AQD_ottawa
New member
for doing ATO and AWC you need just two sensors
so add to your pack the optical level sensor starter kit
PLUS
Another Optical sensor (not starter kit, just the sensor)
PL-LF-S12 holder
PL-LY splitter cable
so add to your pack the optical level sensor starter kit
PLUS
Another Optical sensor (not starter kit, just the sensor)
PL-LF-S12 holder
PL-LY splitter cable
AQD_ottawa
New member
no recomendation really but look at the spec and make sure it can handle the head
For ATO get yourself a water solenoid from auto top off .com and put that in line with your RO, no need for a water container or pump then.
For ATO get yourself a water solenoid from auto top off .com and put that in line with your RO, no need for a water container or pump then.
AQD_ottawa
New member
if it does then the auto time out will trigger on the profilux.
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