Radion programming & their "missing" wavelength

Capt_Cully

Active member
I'm getting some Pros.

First off, are these a nightmare to program? Our home computing consists of an iPad and an old desktop sporting Vista. Will I need more/different OS to get these going?

Second, I notice on their spectral graph, they have a defecits in the 420-430 range. This is a commonly desirable actinic supplementation range no?

Any comments from people that have run them for a while? Did you have to add supplements to your Radions?

Thanks!
 
Eastamherstbias gave me some great advice when I got my gen1 up and running for my frag tank. Getting the lighting spectrum down wasn't a big deal. Personally, I like the preset 20k a lot. Getting the schedule and intensity down takes a little tweaking. I can't adjust mine wirelessly, but the pros might be different.
 
Have you had any corals respond poorly? I think given appropriate time and acclimation, all corals will utilize the PAR provided. But have you found any that you just can't dial in a sweet spot for?
 
It's easy to cook things with a radion. The corals in my frag tank are only a few inches deep and my gen1 has the tir lens. I basically run around 20-30% most if the cycle and can't go over 40%. If I do it that way, I can move things from under the t5s in my display without killing them. I haven't had issues growing anything. Los, sps, zoas, evertthing does well under it.
 
Most times I've seen corals respond poorly to radions or any LED for that matter has been user error. People don't understand how powerful LED's can be. I never ran pros just a gen2 but everything seemed to do very well.
 
I ran the AI Sols previous to this. You're right. You have to respect LEDS. Start low & go slow. Not just pretty colors. They had limited spectra as well, so I only used them as supplemental lighting. Going 100% LED is where I was worried about potential gaps in the lighting spectrum.
 
Most times I've seen corals respond poorly to radions or any LED for that matter has been user error. People don't understand how powerful LED's can be. I never ran pros just a gen2 but everything seemed to do very well.

It is always user error. I generally see 2-3 graphs a week. Here are some common pitfalls.

Just because you can pump out a ton of par...don't
Not using acclimation mode
Having a long photoperiod. 8-10 hours works well, If you are nearing 12 hours you will have a bad time.
 
When you say 8-10 hours are you speaking about total photoperiod or peak time at your highest percentage of output (keeping in mind that you might max out at 30% or something)?

My intended dawn-to peak power-to dusk might cover 12 hours, I'm just clarifying you meant peak times. Thanks!
 
Why, I don't know. I'm asking if its a real life issue maintaining certain corals or colors requiring supplementation.

Here's the dip I'm referring to:

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I've been running halides and VHO actinics

I've been running halides and VHO actinics

Since the early 90's. You know my aquarium. I've been warned by those that made the switch to LED not to do it.

Why would they short 420?
 
I have been using LEDs for almost a year now and would never look back for anything else. My LEDs turn on at 7am and turn off at 11pm which I try to duplicate the sunrise and night effect. For 4 hours of the day my lights are at its most intensity level which is 70 white and 55 blues. I've been doing this for awhile as I stated and I get very good growth at of all my corals. If you ask me I believe that LEDs is the way to go .
 
The reason they "sort the 420-430 nm range is because it is prohibitively expensive to make led that emit in this range. Or so I have read. *

Other than color the reason the 420-430 range is important is because this is the nm range corals receive beyond 20 meter depth in the wild. The blue wavelength is shorter and therefor can travel deeper in the water. Because it is there naturally at higher intensities coral symbants like to use it.*

Now with respect to the lack of this wavelength at our tank depths and the intensity that LEDs can produce this is not a problem as the coral will adjust their zoo population within reason. Have u ever seen a new coral poop that's what they are doing adjusting to ur lights!*

All and all having the 420-430 range is always good because it looks nice and it has great penetrating power but it is not biologically or physically needed to grow coarls at our tank depths. *
 
Gary are you asking me that question?

Well .. Yeah. And it can be applied to anyone reading this thread.
I realize everyone has different objectives with a reef aquarium.
I've always attempted to replicate the natural 12 hour lighting of the tropics.
Corals first aesthetics second over here.

But I do know some people run aquarium lighting longer or shorter because it's their personal preference.
 
Hmmm if my math is correct then I believe I said that my lights turn on at 7am and off at 11pm which is only off 8hrs of the day and to answer your question yes my corals are spawning very well and very healthy. Anyone who has seen my tank with the LEDs no how well very can grow with LED lights.
 
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Maybe it's because I'm referring to SPS.
I've yet to see a good led SPS aquarium in person.
LFS s that have the option of both types of lighting place Acros under halides and LPS under LEDS.
 
Maybe it's because I'm referring to SPS.
I've yet to see a good led SPS aquarium in person.
LFS s that have the option of both types of lighting place Acros under halides and LPS under LEDS.

To be fair LED's are still fairly new technology and a lot of tanks running LED's have not been established as long as some aquariums under MH or T5 so to make the comparison is rather difficult. There has been a lot of short term success under LED's though as far as coral, even SPS, growth, coloration and overall health. I'm more than confident 10+ years from now we'll be talking about Cully's tank and how great his SPS looks ;)
 
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