Reefbreeders/(Evergrow OEM) Fixtures D120/IT20** series

Does anyone have any info on the D120 as to whether or not they use aluminum or steel heatsinks and casing. Also is there any form of thermal cutoff in the event that there is fan failure?
 
Does anyone have any info on the D120 as to whether or not they use aluminum or steel heatsinks and casing. Also is there any form of thermal cutoff in the event that there is fan failure?

Interesting question. I never thought about a thermal cutoff... probably because I'm so used to the massive heat from my old MH fixture. And my question is, do Eco Tech, AI or the other led manufacturers have thermal cutoffs? I've never heard anybody talk about having one.
 
I've been tagging along with this thread for a while and there have been lots of good points and discussion.

I am in the midst of setting up a custom 54"W x 30"D x 24"H tank and want to switch to LED's after Hurricane Sandy essentially killed my 90 gallon display. I am having a hard time deciding between a Reefbreeders/EG fixture and ApolloLED since I already have an Apex controller and it is an extra $99 for 0-10v dimming on a Reefbreeders unit. ApolloLED is Apex ready and seems to have offered more full spectrum lighting without the reds and greens, so I am torn. I wouldn't have even explored Apollo, but one of the OP's mentioned them earlier in the thread

Now it seems that Reefbreeders is coming out with a new fixture, so I'm curious about that one and it's ability to be controlled. I don't need to use my Apex to control the light, but it is a nice option.

Overall like most who are posting and contributing to this thread, I am looking for the most LED for my $. The technology/opinions are changing constantly and I can't justify spending big $ on some of the bigger named companies right now.

I have two months before my tank is even finished, so at one point I'll dive in and hopefully contribute more to this thread. I plan on keeping SPS and a 4" DSB and I'm sure I'll need two units minimum over my tank, maybe 3 depending on the style I end up with.

I think a temperature cutoff would be a nice safety feature especially if a fan failed. I used to have a cutoff with my MH when the tank temp used to get too high. As Ron stated part of the point with LED's is that there is less heat added, so I doubt much thought was given to the safety of the fixture when the livestock should not be at risk.
 
I will be testing those out on binned Crees, and maybe stop by a local lab and test the results against a high quality spectrometer, however I would be satisfied if they matched Cree's datasheets.

Didn't you want to post the LED layouts on your site? Still can't find them.
 
I've been tagging along with this thread for a while and there have been lots of good points and discussion.

I am in the midst of setting up a custom 54"W x 30"D x 24"H tank and want to switch to LED's after Hurricane Sandy essentially killed my 90 gallon display. I am having a hard time deciding between a Reefbreeders/EG fixture and ApolloLED since I already have an Apex controller and it is an extra $99 for 0-10v dimming on a Reefbreeders unit. ApolloLED is Apex ready and seems to have offered more full spectrum lighting without the reds and greens, so I am torn. I wouldn't have even explored Apollo, but one of the OP's mentioned them earlier in the thread

Now it seems that Reefbreeders is coming out with a new fixture, so I'm curious about that one and it's ability to be controlled. I don't need to use my Apex to control the light, but it is a nice option.

Overall like most who are posting and contributing to this thread, I am looking for the most LED for my $. The technology/opinions are changing constantly and I can't justify spending big $ on some of the bigger named companies right now.

I have two months before my tank is even finished, so at one point I'll dive in and hopefully contribute more to this thread. I plan on keeping SPS and a 4" DSB and I'm sure I'll need two units minimum over my tank, maybe 3 depending on the style I end up with.

I think a temperature cutoff would be a nice safety feature especially if a fan failed. I used to have a cutoff with my MH when the tank temp used to get too high. As Ron stated part of the point with LED's is that there is less heat added, so I doubt much thought was given to the safety of the fixture when the livestock should not be at risk.
We will look into a temperature cutoff. So far, we haven't had issues (knock on wood) but we do have a 2 year warranty, which would cover you in that case. I am not sure what you mean by better spectrum, as they use only cool whites, royal blues, and violets, but not other essential colors, but we do offer custom layouts, so you can have the fixture built to your preference.
 
Didn't you want to post the LED layouts on your site? Still can't find them.

We have been holding back, as several companies are copying our layouts, instead of putting work and research into their own. I went ahead and put them up for free viewing and downloading, we will see what happens.
 
Does anyone have any info on the D120 as to whether or not they use aluminum or steel heatsinks and casing. Also is there any form of thermal cutoff in the event that there is fan failure?

They use powder coated steel casings (scratch resistant, and no signs of rust after months of testing over a salt tank) and an aluminum board, with an aluminum plate behind it with fans blowing ont it for cooling. We may add an aluminum heat sink soon, so stay tuned. If it costs extra, we will offer it as an add on, instead of raising the price.
 
Ok, I was looking at some other fixtures sold by another company but also built in China (eshine basically) and was told that they use aluminum heatsinks and casings for better heat transfer in the event of fan failure. They also claim to be UL certified and that these fixtures aren't so in the event of a fire caused by an overheating steel chinese fixture with a fan failure, the insurance company would not cover losses.

They use powder coated steel casings (scratch resistant, and no signs of rust after months of testing over a salt tank) and an aluminum board, with an aluminum plate behind it with fans blowing ont it for cooling. We may add an aluminum heat sink soon, so stay tuned. If it costs extra, we will offer it as an add on, instead of raising the price.
 
Ok, I was looking at some other fixtures sold by another company but also built in China (eshine basically) and was told that they use aluminum heatsinks and casings for better heat transfer in the event of fan failure. They also claim to be UL certified and that these fixtures aren't so in the event of a fire caused by an overheating steel chinese fixture with a fan failure, the insurance company would not cover losses.

Please link me to that company, most of what they told you is BS. The steel case makes no difference in cooling, our fixtures have aluminum plates behind the boards, or aluminum heat sinks. The powder coated steel case simply encloses the units, and has slots for the warm air to escape. Aluminum cases would function essentially the same, as they have little to do with cooling. Our fixtures are very well built, they have fiberglass sleeves where the wires enter the fixture, as well as plastic grommets, and they are well grounded. I doubt a Chinese company would have a UL listing, they probably flat out lied about that. They are either CE certified, or not compliant with any safety regulations.
 
would anyone be able to post up their custom (sun up/sun down) profile hour by hour?

my default profile has the light ramping up/down from 6am to 12am. thats 18 hours!!
 
Logan,
Did I read somewhere your coming out with a new value fixture? New layout? Just curious. Thinking about maybe going this route instead of others I am looking at.

Thank you
 
would anyone be able to post up their custom (sun up/sun down) profile hour by hour?

my default profile has the light ramping up/down from 6am to 12am. thats 18 hours!!

As long as it isn't at 100% for all of those 18 hours, you can't think of it the same way as say, a MH or T5 fixture running at 100% for 18 hours. At least 3 of those hours will be moonlights, and another 3-6 hours would be sunrise/sunset.
 
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