Reefbreeders/(Evergrow OEM) Fixtures D120/IT20** series

RonReefman: Do you think 4 of the Value D120's (no controller) will do it for a tightly packed SPS tank of this size or 6 ? Also I heard that adding optics to those units greatly increases the PAR. Is that true? And then where would be the most economical place to buy 4 or 6 of these units, I know in order to get a group buy price you have to order a min. of 12 units fom the chinese manufacture Ever***w. Reefbre***rs sells'em for 179 but i've found'em as cheap as 129 per unit not including a "bulk" type buying situation which could get a discount. ANYONE USING THESE LIGHTS FOR A 250d/300g DD SPS TANK, or any large SPS only tank for that matter I'd really like to hear about your experience. I would still like to hear from several people with extensive experience with these lights and the best LED layout for SPS color and growth. Thankyou all verry much.

As I said, I THINK 4 of the D120 (RB Value Fixture) is really close. Given you are sps and need light, if you have concerns go with the EG IT2060 (RB Photon 24). It's basically the same amount of light, just spread out over 24" rather then 16" and that should deal with your 36" area you want to cover. You are only 24-26" deep so 90 degree lenses will do the job. 4 fixtures will be enough, it's more about getting it to cover the somewhat... 'unusual' dimensions of your tank. It's basically the same number of leds that I have over my 180g 6' tank and I run them at 90% power on blue and 40% on white and my mostly sps tank is growing like a field of weeds.

At $180 each (for the D120) and needing 4 fixtures, you're looking at $720 to light a 250g tank and you are looking to save more? Try getting any other new lighting (MH, t5 or led) that can cover your tank for that price! You are looking at spending 1/2 to 2/3 of that amount in new MH bulbs for crying out loud! Just find the best price you can and do it. :spin3:
 
Need thoughts/opinions. Setting up a 20L that will be SPS only. I ordered a RKE controller(not sure if these lights can be controlled with this), what would you all recommend for the tank?
 
Need thoughts/opinions. Setting up a 20L that will be SPS only. I ordered a RKE controller(not sure if these lights can be controlled with this), what would you all recommend for the tank?

I got a photon 24 for my 20L and only have it at 10-15% for my LPS. I'm guessing that with the wide (120) optics, you'd be fine to get full coverage with SPS on that tank.
 
From everyone's experience with a tank size of 54"x30"24"; would two photon24 units work parallel to the tank? Or would would three units perpendicular to the tank be needed for full coverage? LPS and SPS will be kept.

Does anyone have any insight on this, would be greatly appreciated?
 
Not sure if this has been raised yet, but does anyone know of a way to mount these lights on the tank without hanging from ceiling or from canopy?

Thanks,

Mike
 
I just hung my 2 x P16's over my 30x30 SPS dominant cube. It was originally lit by a single 175 w MH with LED actinic lighting. I'm looking for a lighting schedule for it. They both have 120* optics and are hung about 12 - 16 inches off the water. I have them ramping up to 50% blue and 40% white which remain that way for 7 hours (which is how long my MH's were on". Does this percentage of brightness seem ok? I don't want to melt my corals, but i don't want them to starve either. I'd rather not have to buy a photometer as well if I don't have to. What did you guys do?
 
From everyone's experience with a tank size of 54"x30"24"; would two photon24 units work parallel to the tank? Or would would three units perpendicular to the tank be needed for full coverage? LPS and SPS will be kept.

Your tank is 30" front to back? If that is the case, a P24 (IT2060) will be a stretch to get good coverage, IMHO. They do about 2' quite well, more than that gets iffy. If you have LR islands and don't need full light in the back, you can make it work. Replacing some 90d lenses with 120d lenses will help with coverage but reduce penetration some. If it's for zoas, palys or softie, it could work. But probably not for sps down near the bottom.

Three P24 (IT2060) set perpendicular to the lenght of the tank will give you serious light. It costs more, but you could grow anything.

Good luck.
 
I have a 8x33x24 eurobraced tank I want to put these lights on but I am unsure of which ones to get. I was thinking about 4 value fixtures turned perpendicular to the tank but also maybe two 32" photons parallel with the tank mounted on center line. This is going to be a fowlr tank with no corals. Any suggestions?
 
I have a 8x33x24 eurobraced tank I want to put these lights on but I am unsure of which ones to get. I was thinking about 4 value fixtures turned perpendicular to the tank but also maybe two 32" photons parallel with the tank mounted on center line. This is going to be a fowlr tank with no corals. Any suggestions?

I have both 16" & 32" models on the same tank and the 32" looks much better (mine are not in a canopy and show). And, I am now in the process of replacing the two 16" with another 32". Also, two value fixture with heat sinks are a lot closer in price this year than one 32" 2080 now. As you probably know 4 D120's = 220 LEDs and 2 2080 = 198 LEDs so more than enough light for a FOWLR tank either way. However the controller has some nice features. Just get 120* optics in either case.
 
I have both 16" & 32" models on the same tank and the 32" looks much better (mine are not in a canopy and show). And, I am now in the process of replacing the two 16" with another 32". Also, two value fixture with heat sinks are a lot closer in price this year than one 32" 2080 now. As you probably know 4 D120's = 220 LEDs and 2 2080 = 198 LEDs so more than enough light for a FOWLR tank either way. However the controller has some nice features. Just get 120* optics in either case.

what aspect of the 32 looks better to you (spread, color etc.)?
 
what aspect of the 32 looks better to you (spread, color etc.)?

Both spread and color are the same as my 32" has basically the same layout as the D120's just 22 less LEDs. And, 198 LEDs with mostly 90* optics on a 72" 180 gallon tank produces plenty of PAR.

The physical appearance of one unit versus two was the biggie (or in my case eventually two 2080's versus 4 D120's on a 72" tank). Initially I didn't think I the controller features, remote, heat sinks, etc.. were worth it, but with the GB 2080 price drops in the last 6 months they now make sense to me (our club GB D120's have stayed about the same cost and normally add $10 more for heat sinks so the additional cost over two D120's versus one 2080 is smaller now).

PS: The number of plugs / cords goes from 8 to two and the hanging kit is nicer with less wires ! Not sure if the circuit board is better built but the unit is 1 or 2 kg heaver than two D120's.
 
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Not sure if this has been asked but I recently received a couple of Photon 16's and was wondering if anyone has a couple of recommendations for the light period %'s.

Example:
6am - 1%Blue. 0%White
6:30am - 4%Blue 0%White
7:00am - 8%Blue 0%White
Etc...
 
Not sure if this has been asked but I recently received a couple of Photon 16's and was wondering if anyone has a couple of recommendations for the light period %'s.

Example:
6am - 1%Blue. 0%White
6:30am - 4%Blue 0%White
7:00am - 8%Blue 0%White
Etc...

Assuming you were using a couple of 150- 250MH's or equivalent t5's on a 70 gallon tank I would start with the "custom" at factory reset @ .5 hour change increments. There should be a chart in the manual that was packed with the lights to show that schedule. Keep a close eye on the corals reaction and adjust accordingly. Unfortunately there is no "right schedule" as everything depends on your previous lights, time they were on, your LED layout and what you are keeping. If you provide more details of your setup maybe someone can tell what they are successfully doing with a similar reef tank & LED's..
 
I've heard that for the reefbreeder photons that you should start out at a max of 25% of the light potential and increase 5% per week.
 
I've heard that for the reefbreeder photons that you should start out at a max of 25% of the light potential and increase 5% per week.

It largely depends on your previously lighting, etc.. and the new fixtures size, spectrum and comparative hours they are on. For instance one of my 2080's replaced 2 D120's EverGrow / Photon (both channels were at 100% with same layout and optics) that had been running for months so being basically the same amount of LED light / PAR the 2080 could have started out at "Sunny" for the same hours as the D120's, but I used the "Custom" factory reset then ramped the dawn & dusk percentage up a little after 2 weeks. Another single D120 (both channels were also at 100% same layout and optics as the 2080) was replaced with a single 2080 (almost twice the LEDs) and I did the same thing although the supplemental VHO fixture there was reduced by a hours to compensate until it adapted. In both cases the amount of PAR was about the same when they started.

And, yes if going from lesser light /PAR (old VHO's, small MH's, other or t5's) or different spectrum definitely start out slow and play it safe.
 
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