jschultzbass
New member
bhazard, do you like the Maxspect razors or the 16" controllable fixture better?
bhazard, do you like the Maxspect razors or the 16" controllable fixture better?
What kind of corals are you keeping and/or planning to keep? Have you opened any these fixtures and see the manufacturing quality (soldering job, cables used, fans used if any, etc)?
I'm hoping that they perform good for all kind of corals including SPS, and when I say that I just don't mean to keep them alive but to bring out true colors. They could not only be a great alternative but also drive down the prices of other fixtures.
im thinking about buying two of the 16" value fixtures to go over my 65g 36" tank with a middle brace. Any thoughts on this idea? would it be better to go with the 1 32" controllable fixture? im keeping Zoas mainly and softies and plan to get a clam or two eventually.
Either setup would work well on your tank, if you need more than 100 par in the bottom corners, then 2 16" fixtures would be the better choice. We have a custom optics layout for 4' tanks.Im looking to switch over my lights to LEDs and was wondering if it would be better to go with the 2 value fixtures or the 32" controllable fixture for my 75gal with a center brace. Any input you guys could give would be helpful. Im looking to be able to keep everything (LPS, SPS, Clams)
Either one will work, personally I would go with 2 IT2080s with 90 degree optics. You would get 33% more power, and use 2 power cords instead of 6, with the ability to control your lights.2 it2080s or 3 dt120s and an apex jr. For a 125g standard tank?
For tanks under 24" deep, 120 degree. 24"-30" deep, 90 degree 36"-40" deep, 60 degree. Some of these specs overlap.How do folks calculate the right height from water and proper optics for spread/depth. Is there an agreed to formula?
We have a custom optics layout that will be standard on all fixtures starting 2/21/13. You can mount it as low as 6" over the water, 8-10" is suggested. The center brace has no effect, check out this photo album:What optics should I use on the 32" unit over a 75gal tank? And how far off the water do you thing I should have it?
with mostly softies, you would be better off saving your money and going with one of the 24" fixtures. It will provide plenty of coverage, and you would be able to put a clam in the middle no problem.im thinking about buying two of the 16" value fixtures to go over my 65g 36" tank with a middle brace. Any thoughts on this idea? would it be better to go with the 1 32" controllable fixture? im keeping Zoas mainly and softies and plan to get a clam or two eventually.
It is very easy to replace them, we can send out optics for additional cost.I have one of the reefbreeders value fixtures over my 44 gallon pentagon and I really like it. It has manual dimmers but I do have the blues setup on a separate timer so that I can have an hour in the morning and an hour in the evening of only blues.
One question though. I bought it without optics, would it be difficult for me to add optics down the road?
Either three values, 3 16" controllable, or 2 32" fixtures would work. I would use 2 32" controllable fixtures with 90 degree optics, that way you could grow sps to the sand bed.The more I read the more I want the RB fixtures! Building new tank 72" 150 w/ 2 braces. Will three of the values work for a litle of everything. Complete mix. Would it be better to have 3 of the 16" contollable? I really want to beat te heat of halides...My 75 would hit close to 90 in the summer with 2 150w halides. NO ac is a killer!
the 16" fixture should do very well over that tank. I would use 90 degree optics, maybe 120s if you want to be closer than 6-8" from the water.Getting back into the hobby after about four years. Previous setup was 220 reef - all HQI lighting. Looking at starting back into the hobby with a 60 cube (24x24x22high). Plan on softies and lps, like my previous tank. From reading, it sounds like the 16" controllable fixture from ReefBreeders would fit the bill nicely. What do you think?
I usually keep the blues 10-20% higher than the whites for most of the cycle. I go down about 5-10% every 30 minutes, and run at 100% for 2 hours.
So for 2 hrs. of the day you run both channels at 100%, or do you mean the blues at 100% and the whites the usual 10-20% lower than 100%?
Water levels are stable 8 dkh. .5 nitrate 0 phosphate and calcium 460
How would I go about ordering the 32" fixture with your optics setup for a 4' tank? Is it the custom layout? Where I have to fill out a contact form?