bhazard451
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Reefbreeders/(Evergrow OEM) Fixtures D120/IT20** series
- Thread starter bhazard451
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About to buy 2 of the value 120 reef breeders. Will the default layout look like the it2080? Want moonlights but owell lol. Anything anybody would change from the default layout? Love the colors in the pic bhazard posted. Have the cree 90 watt values atm and they are great but want more color options and my acans have changed colors.
LightForce
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My tank is 10' by 3' deep with 3 30" openings, i want 3 IT2080 and i want to avoid any shadows in water column and bottom am I ok with 90 optics or i should go with 120 ? Thanks
Ron Reefman
Active member
The tank is 120" long and you have 3 30" openings?Are you saying the braces are each 10"?
Three of the IT2080's should cover a 10' long tank with no problem. 90 degree lenses and 36' deep is OK as far as coverage and no shadows, but getting deep for maintaining PAR values at the sand. You may want to consider 90 degree lenses over the rocks and a mix of 90's and 60's over the sand if you need high PAR values that deep.
tfrizz80
New member
Im building a 220 gal 72*30*24. Its 30 " deep. 2 it 2080 doesn't seem like enough light for my tank. I want to keep clams and sps anywhere in my tank . If I use 90 degree optics would that be enough lifht and not give me any shadows. The top has 3 sections. I thought about the 3 2060 but thats less light than the 2 2080s. ): im so confused....
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Ron Reefman
Active member
Two guys in our group buy have 220g tanks just like yours. They both keep sps and clams. One switched from 400w MH and thought he could start out the IT2080's at 100%... wrong! He stared to bleach some corals until he dialed it back. At 6 weeks, I'm running 100% blue and 60% white for 4 hours with a slow ramp up the the 4 hours and a slow ramp down afterwards. I've had no problems and my corals seem at least as happy, maybe more, than when I had 1050w of MH (3ea 250w and 2ea 150w).
How many fans do the it2080's have for people that bought them before this newest shipment. Mine came with 3, It shows they come with four and a heatsink. Mine also only has 3 somewhat small heatsinks 1 under each fan, the rest inside is just the led board. Fixture looks really nice though. Will this affect performance? Percentage wise it looks like the 16" controllable has better heat dissipation (2 fans a 1 large heatsink that covers the whole led board). I am somewhat disappointed, thought it would have 1 large heatsink with the four fans. Still though a very nice looking fixture!
tfrizz80
New member
Wow that sounds awesome.what optics are u and ur friend running? Do u have any shadows?
bhazard451
New member
4 mini heatsinks on the 2080. I was a little disappointed at first too, but the light are barely warm to the touch after over an hour at 100%. The Radion Pro is scalding hot in comparison. A full heatsink isn't needed in it, and would just add weight and increase the price.
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Reef_Breeders
Sponsor
With mostly SPS< the 32" fixture with 90 degree optics would be ideal.
You can use a conduit hanger like Bhazard451 has, that seems to be one of the best options.
I would stick with the 120s, mount it at about 3-6" over the water.
We will repair or replace any defects free of charge, if they are due to sudden equipment failure and/or manufacturing errors. You can replace LEDs and optics, and the warranty will not be broken so long as the fixture still works when you close it back up. We handle shipping back and forth free of charge.
The default layout is similar to the IT2080, it wil have less reds than his, as he customized his layout.
What are your other dimensions, 10' x 3' x?
They have 3 fans and 3 heatsinks, and stay at about 70-80 degrees at max power. The LEDs are more spread out than they are on the 16" version, so one large heatsink is not needed for cooling.
Ron Reefman
Active member
We are all using 90 degree optics, but I am getting some 120 degree lenses to use on the moonlights and all the leds that aren't blue or white (i.e. UV, violet, reds and green). I also have the light moved a bit forward and tipped toward the back just a bit. The sand at the front of the tank is well lit and there is almost no light spillage out the front glass. However, I have a rock wall up the back of the tank and it goes almost to the water surface. The upper few inches of the wall are not well lit and I can't raise the light inside the canopy any more. So I will be putting 120 degree lenses on most of the back row of leds and probably even on some of the 2nd row. With the light shining down more than a MH (with lots of reflected light) there are some shadows. My personal feeling is the tank looks like it's a 'cleaner' white than the MH (maybe less yellow than the MH 10K) and like when you photoshop a picture, the tank has more 'contrast' because of the little bit of shadowing. I like it a lot better.
tfrizz80
New member
We are all using 90 degree optics, but I am getting some 120 degree lenses to use on the moonlights and all the leds that aren't blue or white (i.e. UV, violet, reds and green). I also have the light moved a bit forward and tipped toward the back just a bit. The sand at the front of the tank is well lit and there is almost no light spillage out the front glass. However, I have a rock wall up the back of the tank and it goes almost to the water surface. The upper few inches of the wall are not well lit and I can't raise the light inside the canopy any more. So I will be putting 120 degree lenses on most of the back row of leds and probably even on some of the 2nd row. With the light shining down more than a MH (with lots of reflected light) there are some shadows. My personal feeling is the tank looks like it's a 'cleaner' white than the MH (maybe less yellow than the MH 10K) and like when you photoshop a picture, the tank has more 'contrast' because of the little bit of shadowing. I like it a lot better.
Is that the 220 u are talking about? It looks like the lights are hung pretty high. Is that so that most of the back and top get light? Do you know what par readings you are getting at the sand bed? Thanks for your help!
Ron Reefman
Active member
My tank (in the pic) is a 180g and the lights are 5" off the water at the outside and 6" near the center glass brace. The lights are hung a bit forward of the center of the tank and tipped slightly up in the rear. The lights shine right to the front glass and doesn't spill out much at all. This was done to reduce the shadowing in the rocks, get light under the center brace (18" wide cloudy glass) and up the rock wall near the top. I need to add the 120 degree lenses along the back to get more light at the top. If I had an island rock layout the 90 degree optics would be perfect. I get PAR of 225to 250 at 22" deep at the sand.
BigRedNole
New member
I used conduit to hang my IT2040. More than stable enough with 1" conduit.
Clownin Aroun
YouTube name- KNGRNGS
I am having a 50 x 36 x 30 tank made. What would you run on this tank?
LightForce
New member
Yes It`s 120 36 by 24 - 435G all acrylic with 10" acrylic top braces.
So there will be 6" spaces from sides and between the lights over 10 foot area.
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