Reefbreeders/(Evergrow OEM) Fixtures D120/IT20** series
- Thread starter bhazard451
- Start date
uf_gators
New member
I tell ya the best way to mount the lights. I can not remember where I saw it. But some one had some radions mounted to a tv wall mount that swiveled. That was completely awesome. Move out of the way when cleaning and all. But when I built my overbuilt stand to hold my tank all with 2x4's and 3/4 furniture grade plywood. Me and my dad was sitting on it 400 lbs and no give. Lol
I set up the stand and tank not even thinking about future of needing a wall .( big mistake). It's kinda like its there and can't move this sob if I wanted too. But I thought I would share a idea for those who are looking for ideas to mout your light and have studs in the wall centered or close. Mine are no where close and would look like cocka. Lol
I set up the stand and tank not even thinking about future of needing a wall .( big mistake). It's kinda like its there and can't move this sob if I wanted too. But I thought I would share a idea for those who are looking for ideas to mout your light and have studs in the wall centered or close. Mine are no where close and would look like cocka. Lol
King Nine
New member
I like that idea a lot!!!! But... I think I found what I need. Package B from maxspect. It is made to span front to back of the tank and the elbows in package E just attach straight to them. completely solves my issues I think. Take a look and let me know what you think.
http://www.coralvue.com/maxspect-tank-top-mount-brackets-package-b.html
http://www.coralvue.com/maxspect-tank-top-mount-brackets-package-b.html
uf_gators
New member
If you look at the reef koi's. they have a little bracket in the corners for a brace.. Maybe you can either brace it for support or move the support further out on the rack.
uf_gators
New member
I did think of this as well. And if I couldn't get it to work and look right I would order them. But in your case. Longer span. That may be a better way to go.
dixiedog
New member
You definitely want the IT2080, if that one is even enough on a four foot tank. I have the 2060 over my 40 breeder (36" long tank) and it's very marginal. I may upgrade to a 2080 very soon.
Thanks dude, gonna be ordering it now. :dance:
dixiedog
New member
I just now switched out my 90 degree optics for the 120's which arrived in today's mail. I was quite surprised - and quite disappointed! - to find that the PAR levels at the ends of the tank remain almost completely unchanged! NOT the results I was hoping for, and expecting to see.
It's looking more and more like I need a 2080.
It's looking more and more like I need a 2080.
King Nine
New member
Well I'm going to order those package B cross beams Monday and see if they will fix my problem. I have another idea for the bowing. It bows at the joints that have to use the little metal bar where the two pieces don't touch each other. I can use the slide on brackets I was going to mount the lights with and just slide them under the gaps. It will greatly increase the tensil strenght of the joint. I'm very sad I can't use the lights now but I'm happy again that I think I have a solution to the problem. Now its looking like the ReefKoi might have been worth it after all lol.
Edit: When I go back and look at the details of the package A base assembly it clearly states for a tank with 3/4" wide rim and my 125g is every bit of 1" wide before the little inset rim for the glass.
Last edited:
Triggerfish
Active member
just got the d120 delivered from RB..super quick turnaround time. this light is just what I was looking for. better than expected. i have a standard 75g and only got one unit for now. hung it in middle inside canopy and the coverage is much more than i thought with the 120 lens.
the hanging kit takes some planning regarding mounting height.
now on the remote units mounted inside a canopy can the remote sensor work through the canopy or does it have to be exposed?
the hanging kit takes some planning regarding mounting height.
now on the remote units mounted inside a canopy can the remote sensor work through the canopy or does it have to be exposed?
bdevillier
New member
it needs to be exposed i believe. it uses an IR remote, not an RF.
Triggerfish
Active member
after running the light for couple days, finding the default layout to be just a bit to much blue for me. so far running good.
King Nine
New member
I find that interesting. Most people want it to be on the blue side. (I fall in that catagory) I do like my daylight hours to be more like a phoenix 14k MH Which to me is white with a blue hue. I still haven't been able to mount mine and turn them on so I can't be objective here.
Anyway what setting do you run you d120 on that is too blue? I thinkg the beauty of these lights is being able to customize the channels to your liking.
Triggerfish
Active member
yeah.. I def like it more on the blue side as well.. I think after looking at the 14k MH for so long im just not used to the color yet, and just thinking to much blue. just being able to dim and adjust is pretty freakin awesome at this point.
on a side note: the plug into fixture on ch1 doesn't seem to connect real tight and small movement in the fixture make it loose and shut off.. not a big deal..just don't move the thing.
like i said i have only one unit on a 4' 75g and its lighting the thing pretty decent hanging in the middle. much better than i would have thought. the 120 reflectors and its throwing light everywhere inside the canopy.. i wrapped some board with foil to put behind so it would reflect some back inside tank.
corals seem to be responding well so far. next group buy will pickup another.
jacob.morgan78
New member
Is he value fixture on reefbreeders the same as the dt120?
Yes it is.
I have a 110cm long tank. Should I get the IT2080 or 2 multicolor D120? I would prefer one fixture, but it seems to more power in 2 D120.
The IT2080 is rated 240W, but only consumes 700mA. 230Vx700mA = 161W.
My current fixture is a KEY-LED model K3, and it is 160W. I want a upgrade, but I can`t find anywhere how many mA it consumes in comparison.
And thoughts from you "experts" out there? ;-)
The IT2080 is rated 240W, but only consumes 700mA. 230Vx700mA = 161W.
My current fixture is a KEY-LED model K3, and it is 160W. I want a upgrade, but I can`t find anywhere how many mA it consumes in comparison.
And thoughts from you "experts" out there? ;-)
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