Reefbreeders/(Evergrow OEM) Fixtures D120/IT20** series

Help. I have one of my photons apart to replace the LEDs Logan sent and I'm now confused. I have a call into Logan but I don't know if he'll call on Sunday. His site says his LEDs will be clearly marked for which direction to put them and have solder paste applied already. Neither of these two seem to be the case on my batch I recieved. I even got my wifes magnifying glasses looking for marks but can't find anything to orient positive. Please help if you can.

EDIT: OK. I applied much brighter light and see what looks like a small mark on the edge of the metal leg. I guess that is supposed to be a negative sign. I'm also guessing what I thought of solder paste and this solder paste are two different things. I've had things come with solder pads before where all you had to to was heat it up and the solder was there to melt to the contact. I was looking for something different.
 
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King Nine said:
Help. I have one of my photons apart to replace the LEDs Logan sent and I'm now confused. I have a call into Logan but I don't know if he'll call on Sunday. His site says his LEDs will be clearly marked for which direction to put them and have solder paste applied already. Neither of these two seem to be the case on my batch I recieved. I even got my wifes magnifying glasses looking for marks but can't find anything to orient positive. Please help if you can.

EDIT: OK. I applied much brighter light and see what looks like a small mark on the edge of the metal leg. I guess that is supposed to be a negative sign. I'm also guessing what I thought of solder paste and this solder paste are two different things. I've had things come with solder pads before where all you had to to was heat it up and the solder was there to melt to the contact. I was looking for something different.
Click to expand...

Hi, we do not put solder paste on them anymore, it ends up running out too fast, and takes a few days to get more. Also, they have a small - sign indented in the negative side of the diode.
 
Reef_Breeders said:
Hi, we do not put solder paste on them anymore, it ends up running out too fast, and takes a few days to get more. Also, they have a small - sign indented in the negative side of the diode.
Click to expand...

Thanks, glad to know I'm not crazy. That is pretty hard to see! I have two of the three done. The orange/rainbow rics look better and the red blastomussa maybe a little better but I really can't tell. I over all love the coloration of this much better!!! a very crisp white to bluish light now. This is much closer to the 14k I was going for and I think even has a fuller spectrum. Oh well, break is over. Back to work.
 
PDAlber said:
I'm planning on replacing the lights on my Oceanic Tech-series 90-gal. It has euro-bracing around the top, with an opening of 42" x 12". Would I be better off with two D120's or one Photon 32?
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Assume no canopy. No comparison in looks or performance get the 32" fixture it is worth the extra cost. I have three now and love them. Also, have bought 5 D120's so I know them well and while a good fixture the price differential is less now than a year ago to make the upgrade decision easier. Think about the optics options (both outside two end rows and r, g & v with 120* with the rest 90*) and what you want to keep and where in the tank. Plenty of comments from other 90 gallon owners on these threads for more ideas.
 
Ok I'm done. I've switched out 6 4,500's for 14k's and switched out 6 450nm's for 6 480nm's to help with the reds. My comment above still stands. The rics are better but not really the blastomussa but it still looks good. Just now Wow like it did before with T5s. All else is better looking with these lights so far.

The new 14k coloration is awesome!! I hate the yellowish tint and this definately balances that back out for a great color. I highly recommend this combo of LED's if anyone is interested.
 
grandp10 said:
So did you go with what you had pic. of posted. Or can you post another layout of what you did?
Click to expand...

This is it. All my changes were on rows 2 and 4.


This is a close mock up of the spectrum it has. I had to get as close as possible since the program making it didn't have our exact LEDs
 
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This may b a dumb question. But how do you know what color LEDs are on the board when you are changing out the LEDs? Do you look at a printed layout of LEDs or just remember what color is where?
 
grandp10 said:
This may b a dumb question. But how do you know what color LEDs are on the board when you are changing out the LEDs? Do you look at a printed layout of LEDs or just remember what color is where?
Click to expand...

Not dumb at all. I did print out the default layout and was worried early on that I wouldn't know which side was the top and which side was the bottom. After getting into the unit the rows and colums are all numbered so I got a sharpie and marked which ones I needed to change so I wouldn't mess it up.

My biggest piece of advice is not to let the soldering iron be at too low of an angle. It nicked the the built on little lense (that is on each diode). Had I not got lucky and melted the lens on the diode I was about to change I would have screwed it up.
 
I have a 72 long by 24 wide tank. I am on a budget right now but do you guys think 2 of the value fixtures would give a "decent" coverage? I plan on getting a 3rd and even a 4th down the line but for now I cant. Do you guys think that would be able to keep some softies and low light corals with them? Or should I just not even waste my money and save up until later. I still have no coral or fish. Just cured rock and sand.
Let me know what you think thanks.
 
I just got my 48" fixture and I was just wondering what everyones schedules were for their lights. I have mine set to ramp up and down using the 30 min increments but was just trying to see what everyone else came up with. Im looking for something that doesnt have so much of a "pop" when its ramping up and down.
 
Thanks for the reply Logan Here's my next question can we change out the moonlights And use a high-power bright white Want to do a high noon. Instead of moonlights
 
What do you mean by 'pop'?

I do my EG every 60 minutes. I do a 4 hour sunrise, midday is 90% &40% for 5 hours and then a 5 hour sunset. I almost never notice the lights change the steps are small enough I only notice when the room is dark.
 
Chicago said:
Thanks for the reply Logan Here's my next question can we change out the moonlights And use a high-power bright white Want to do a high noon. Instead of moonlights
Click to expand...

You can use 3 3 watt whites. But they will be on the blue channel, and far from creating a high noon effect. I would just turn the whites up.
 
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