Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[afgun]

I tapped mine. Luckily I had the right size one. I don't recall what I paid for it, but larger taps aren't exactly cheap. If your JG fitting is the right kind of plastic, perhaps you could cement it in place instead of using silicone...

 

[RYNO520]

Hi all,

I've been reading through this thread for the past couple of weeks and have decided it's time to just do it. I am rebuilding a 56 gallon column aquarium (FOWLR) and will have a 20 gallon sump. Full width Calfo overflow. I am making an algae turf scrubber for my filtration requirements. My main question is, will it be ok for me to use the siphon line to supply the algae turf scrubber before it goes into my sump? Since air will be introduced into the line I thought that could create some issues for the siphon line. Any help will be appreciated. Oh, I will be using all 1" lines with a true union valve on the siphon line. Shooting for around 500 gph. Thanks in advance for your help!

 

[larryfl1]

i have an external overflow box...

do i need to use the sanitary T or a regular T?

i am using 1.5 inch and the sanitary T and elbows dont fit that nicely...

where as a normal T and elbow with pipe slip nice and will glue nicer...

the sanitary has a nicer round...where the normal does not.


thoughts??

 

[uncleof6]

Normal Ts and elbows will work fine. The sanis give a little less turbulent flow, but really normal Ts will not affect the performance of the system. Sanitary tees are only available 1.5" and above, and those using smaller pipe and normal tees are not having problems (provided the system is set up according to the guidelines.)

 

[Tat2demon]

when you guys drilled and installed the 3/8 john guest mip fitting into the non siphon cap...

did you tap the threads or just drill and use silicon to lock it waterproof???

also how are you supporting the pipe coming down from the exterior box? i dont want to pull it down... i see some wood used in photos but are you using unions to sit above the wood to lock it in place??
any details on this would be appreciated...

thanks

Larry

I didnt have a tap large enough so just drilled and siliconed.

If you check my build page you can see how I secured my drains so all the weight is on the stand, not on the tank.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1917733

 

[Tat2demon]

Volcano1 I think you want to snip that black air line tubing just a little shorter. Could be wrong, but I believe the reason you want to point it down is so that if the water gets above the normal level it basically converts the durso into a siphon, but during normal operation you want it to pull a little air or just be open for degassing. Bean words things better then I do, I would just re-read the section he wrote.

It wouldn't be the end of the world if you didn't make that tweak, but might help a little. The rest looks VERY nicely done though btw. I am very jealous of the coast to coast. I already purchased a standard perfecto tank with a single corner overflow.(will be making swiss cheese out of it to add more drain lines and a closed loop, but still wish I could do the coast to coast) Good work!

Agreed. You want thqat line somewhere between your normal operating level and the opening for your emergency line.

 

[uncleof6]

Agreed. You want thqat line somewhere between your normal operating level and the opening for your emergency line.

Although Volcano1's air line IS way too low, this is not correct. The inlet to the airline should be ABOVE the inlet to the emergency-- as it is the final fail safe. Problems getting the siphon to start have been encountered due to the air inlet being too low, and the open channel tripping to siphon before the main siphon starts.

This was just discussed a page or so ago. This subject is creating some confusion, and it is advised to set the system up according to the original instructions put forth on bean's website.

 

[Volcano1]

Now I'm a little confused. I just need to raise the end of the tubing higher in the water line,so that it is above the starting point of the emergency. Is that correct?

 

[uncleof6]

You want it above the water line in the overflow, above the inlet to the emergency standpipe, (which should also be above the water line in the overflow) but lower than where the tank will actually over flow.

If the siphon plugs, water will rise in the overflow, and start flowing in the dry emergency standpipe/drain. If something happens with the emergency, the water level will again rise. This will block the air line inlet, which will turn the open channel into a siphon, and flush the overflow box keeping the water in the plumbing rather than all over the floor

This is the way it is explained from the beginning both in the original thread and on bean's website. "White noise" has gotten in the way, and confused the issue. It was agreed, since this thread is about reducing confusion, that the advice remain consistent with the first page of the original thread, and with the info on bean's site.

 

[Volcano1]

We are on the same page there. I might have not stated it clearly.

I did tap my airline fitting. Found a tap at local ace hardware for 6.00 to get the job done.
I used some non wood decking material for a shelf. Made 3 holes with the hole saw, bolted it to some brackets onto the stand, and placed a union in each hole to support the overflow box.

 

[RRaider]

I have an Oceanic with dual overflows. Does anyone see a problem with putting the full syphon and the emergency standpipes in one overflow and the return and the overflow stand pipe in the other to prevent the water from stagnating in the second overflow?

 

[RocketSurgeon]

I have an Oceanic with dual overflows. Does anyone see a problem with putting the full syphon and the emergency standpipes in one overflow and the return and the overflow stand pipe in the other to prevent the water from stagnating in the second overflow?

I don't think that my overflow doesn't sees enough water for it not to become stagnate.

 

[ToLearn]

I have an Oceanic with dual overflows. Does anyone see a problem with putting the full syphon and the emergency standpipes in one overflow and the return and the overflow stand pipe in the other to prevent the water from stagnating in the second overflow?

Do you have to run the return up through the bottom because it is 4 side viewable? If not consider going in up over the side or the back.

One question you want to examine is if the tank is perfectly level. If both overflows get the same amount of flow this may work, but if one is higher then the other and you use the higher one for the full siphon you may not be able to pump as much as you would like.

Take a closer look and break out a level.

 

[TheFishMan65]

IIRC someone suggested placing the siphon and open in one, Then the emergency and return in the other. ANd then filling the one that has the emergency with sand to form a DSB. I don't think the water flow is consistent enought to d oanything else.

 

[RocketSurgeon]

Yes and no...

The easiest way to utilize this setup in that scenario is as follows:

BOX 1:
Open channel
Siphon

BOX 2:
Emergency
Return from sump

Fill box #2 with oolitic sand to just below the overflow teeth. This will create a small but likely effective DSB for NNR.

That allows you to utilize both boxes and the overflow system without having stagnant water in one of the boxes. There are other options, but this is by far the easiest.

IIRC someone suggested placing the siphon and open in one, Then the emergency and return in the other. ANd then filling the one that has the emergency with sand to form a DSB. I don't think the water flow is consistent enought to d oanything else.

Beananimal suggested it, if I recall.

 

[ToLearn]

I would still do four drains. It's unlikely up the back or sides wouldn't be an option unless the tank is in the middle of a room and none of the sides don't back up against a wall.

Usually there is little reason to have to go in through a hole in the bottom of the tank for the return line.

 

[BeanAnimal]

I have an Oceanic with dual overflows. Does anyone see a problem with putting the full syphon and the emergency standpipes in one overflow and the return and the overflow stand pipe in the other to prevent the water from stagnating in the second overflow?

The siphon and open channel MUST be in the same box or they will not work properly together. Separating them is not an option, at all.

 

[tarvis]

Awesome build

 

[SkyReef]

Hey, Bean:

I just spent an entire day reading up to page 29 (725 posts) of your awesome thread. I will study the remainder when I have more time. Congratulations! Very nice work and advice over the years! Your design has inspired me to modify my Nano Cube 28 gal set up, and I will incorporate your failsafe design. My mod-diary can be found here: http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums...be-mod-diary-jbj-nano-cube-28-gallon-hqi.html.

Given that your advice over the years has stated that your design can be scaled up or down, do you anticipate that I would run into problems using your design in a 2-tank setup that shares a common sump (as depicted in the second slide of my diary)? Here is the basic design:

1. Nano Cube 28-gallon tank, used as a live reef aquarium, modified with the removed rear sump, with the 3 holes drilled in the back, 1.5" bulkhead and PVC all the way, to accomodate your Bean Overflow Design (including with a Calfo/Coast-to-Coast, Internal over-flow box), draining into a 10-15 gallon sump below (which has a protein skimmer in (yet to be built));

2. BioCube 14-gallon tank, used as a dedicated refugium, modified in the same way as the Nano Cube 28 (with your overflow design), draining into the very same sump;

3. Return flow perhaps a little light, using an Iwaki MD 40-RT external pump (estimated to be returning about 650 gph total to both tanks combined), over the top of tanks (which will have raised hoods), split into two returns, as your setup uses.

Do you see any inherent flaws in this side-by-side tank setup, using a common sump, with your design? Will I run into trouble with the return flow rate being that low? I will augment water movement in the tank with powerheads.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Once again, great work, you are truly inspiring!

 

[phi delt reefer]

Hi Guys - I have read through a ton of this thread (to the point where my eyes are slowly crossing permanently )

Some background on my tank design - its approx 40-45 gallons made of 10mm glass. The overflow will be made of 6mm glass. This will run to a 20long sump and the return will be a Eheim 1250. Should get about 200-250gph given my head loss (used that HL calculator)

I have a couple questions about implementing the I am going to have built soon if you don't mind assisting;

How should I place my bulkhead holes in my overflowbox so it fits all three pipes with regular tees (they dont make 1" sanitary tees from what i understand) and down turned 90s? I am planning on running 1 inch piping. So what I really need to know is how wide each overflow pipe with a tee and a 90?

I want it to look like this (but have tees and 90's on all three pipes)

I went to my local Home depot and they didnt have any one inch pvc so I am going to have to find it online or check another HD (they seem to have it at HD Canada online...)


Is the weir/notch i made deep enough? My tank is only 12" tall so I don't want to loose a lot of water volume or have very obvious water line 3/4 up the tank for I am going for that rimless look.

Thank you all in advance - your help is greatly appreciated.

Vince