Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

SkyReef

While in most cases I side with the "bigger is better" mentality... this is not one of those cases. There is NO NEED to go with 1.5" bulkheads or plumbing. It is a complete waste of space, your plumbing will be the focal point, not the display.

1" bulkheads and plumbing will be fine. You could even go with 3/4" siphon and emergency. You could try a 3/4 bulkhead with 1" pipe for the open channel... depending on flow.

Smaller internal box and less room taken from the tank. For that matter, you could use a tiny internal weir and an external box with the smaller plumbing and still likely take up less room behind the display [than the larger 1.5" setup you proposed].
 
SkyReef

While in most cases I side with the "bigger is better" mentality... this is not one of those cases. There is NO NEED to go with 1.5" bulkheads or plumbing. It is a complete waste of space, your plumbing will be the focal point, not the display.

1" bulkheads and plumbing will be fine. You could even go with 3/4" siphon and emergency. You could try a 3/4 bulkhead with 1" pipe for the open channel... depending on flow.

Smaller internal box and less room taken from the tank. For that matter, you could use a tiny internal weir and an external box with the smaller plumbing and still likely take up less room behind the display [than the larger 1.5" setup you proposed].

I'm using a 1.5" siphon. Below is a picture of my valve, almost completely closed.

Phone32037.jpg~original


I'm using a mag 9.5 return pump on my 75.

1284472774.jpg~original
 
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SkyReef

While in most cases I side with the "bigger is better" mentality... this is not one of those cases. There is NO NEED to go with 1.5" bulkheads or plumbing. It is a complete waste of space, your plumbing will be the focal point, not the display.

1" bulkheads and plumbing will be fine. You could even go with 3/4" siphon and emergency. You could try a 3/4 bulkhead with 1" pipe for the open channel... depending on flow.

Smaller internal box and less room taken from the tank. For that matter, you could use a tiny internal weir and an external box with the smaller plumbing and still likely take up less room behind the display [than the larger 1.5" setup you proposed].

Hi, Bean. Thanks! Great advice! Just in time, too! My glass drill bits just arrived in the mail today, and they are still in the box, sitting on my kitchen counter with all the other mail. I bought a set of various sizes of drill bits--so that was fortunate, too!

I will heed your recommendations on smaller bulkhead sizes. I'm documenting my tank-modification with pictures, so I'll post them, when all is said and done. I will still go with the internal flow box, rather than the external one, but I will make the down-sizing recommendations you make on the glass holes and pipes.

Thanks, again!
 
I'm using a 1.5" siphon. Below is a picture of my valve, almost completely closed.

Phone32037.jpg~original


I'm using a mag 9.5 return pump on my 75.

1284472774.jpg~original

Hey, RocketSurgeon.

Thanks for your advice and photos. If your valve is almost completely closed, that means that what Bean is saying is so true: on my tank so much flow would be going through the 1.5" plumbing that I would have to nearly cut it off. Great teaching lesson with your thoughts and photos. Your tank and plumbing look awesome, by the way. Nice job!

Thanks!
 
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Alright guys I've got some issues with my system. Ive got all 1" plumbing on a 80gal tank. I was using a QO 4000 retrun. The system was running perfectly. The QO was a little loud so I switched to a velocity T2 external pump. I figured I would have to adjust the ball valve on my siphon, which was touchy because of the valve being hard to adjust. I was finally able to get it adjust, but every now and then there's a bubbling noise coming out of the durso style pipe. I never had this before. The new pump is around the same GPH as the old pump. So what's up? I'm thinking the ball valve needs to open just a teeny bit more. But this is almost impossible to do with the ball valve. Should I throw a gate valve on there? Thanks everyone.
 
To reefermad619

Yes, switch to the gate valve and your problems should be solved.

Second that. Ball valves are really to be used to shut things off or on, but sometimes work for adjusting if fine adjustments are not required. Gate valve is the way to go for this application and would solve the issue you are running into.
 
Turns out that my noise is not coming from drain! I thought it was, but it's coming from the locline on my return. I guess I had the locline angled pretty hard and I think it was sucking in some air. I was watching the tank and when I heard the noise, a big burst of air bubbles came out of the return. I straightened the line out a bit and the noise stopped.
 
While a GV can be used, in most cases a BV should be fine. This system really only needs to be adjusted once. Becuase the setup can self tune over such a wide range, even a mid grade BV will get tuned in very easily.
 
1" bulkheads and plumbing will be fine. You could even go with 3/4" siphon and emergency. You could try a 3/4 bulkhead with 1" pipe for the open channel... depending on flow.

I'm thinking a 1" pip and 1/2" bulkhead for all three. This should give you just over 800gph and the ability to fine tune the system better with the valves. I doubt someone would be running more than 800gph on a 28G tank. This is what I would run on my 20L if I wasn't doing a AIO.

David
 
Bean's Design Adapted for Nano Cube 28-Gal. Tank

Bean's Design Adapted for Nano Cube 28-Gal. Tank

I'm thinking a 1" pip and 1/2" bulkhead for all three. This should give you just over 800gph and the ability to fine tune the system better with the valves. I doubt someone would be running more than 800gph on a 28G tank. This is what I would run on my 20L if I wasn't doing a AIO.

David

Hi, OtherCents:

Thanks for your input regarding using Bean's method on my 28-gallon Nanocube. Regarding the 800-gph figure you cite for 1/2" bulkheads + 1" tubes, does that entail allowance for Bean's method of not opening the siphon tube all the way (whereby I would dial it back just a little, to allow the open-channel tube to carry some water)? The original twin pumps that were stock equipment from JBJ, fitted in the sump of the Nano Cube 28, were 266 gph (x 2 pumps). So that would be 532 gph total, making your figure of 800 gph fit right in--with a little extra power than the stock pumps. I was originally paranoid of drilling the bulkheads too small. But after Bean set me straight a few posts back, I realize that such a fear was wholly unfounded, as using 1.5" bulkheads and plumbing would have been absurd for such a small tank (great advice!). So between Bean's recommendation and your recommendation, we're looking at between 1/2" and 3/4" bulkheads with 1" standing tubes. You both have given me a lot to think about!

But here's another wrench in the machine: the side-by-side, companion tank, that will house a refugium, feeds into a common sump, below the Nano Cube. They share water and pumping. The only catch is that the smaller refugium tanks is half the size of the Nano Cube. It is a BioCube 14 (14-gallon tank). Now, what size should the bulkheads and standing pipes be for the BioCube? Consider if the BioCube's bulkheads or standing pipes are smaller than the Nano Cube's bulkheads or pipes, then the return pump--which will split the water-return to both tanks evenly via a "tee"--may cause slight disparities in drain rates between the tanks. Now, I know that Bean has said in his threads that if the water rises in the overflow tank (say, rising higher in the Biocube because it's bulkheads or standing tubes are smaller) it exerts more hydrostatic pressure on the plumbing, causing the water to move out faster.

Hence, according to this logic, I shouldn't worry about any disparities in the water's return-flow-rate that may be effected in part by a disparity in the bulkhead or standing-pipes size of each respective tank. So maybe it's really no big deal, and I should drill or plumb smaller in the BioCube 14, to avoid more overkill. If so, then I could probably drill all holes on both tanks 1/2", using 1" standing tubes on the Nano Cube and 3/4" tubes on the BioCube? I'm not sure here. What recommendations would you all make on this? Bean? OtherCents? Anyone? Thanks again! Your knowledge is very helpful.
 
well system has been running now for 1 week...it is awesome


3 1.5 inch bulkheads...

pump is a super dart

looking at the sump there is no bubbles on siphon and non siphon as a trickle of bubbles....

you cant go wrong with this technique....

the one thing that is apparent....don't try this without a good gate valve...it is essential....


Larry

this is running..no bubbles


5a6a7dca.jpg

273ca60e.jpg

20f085c3.jpg

e850d9b5.jpg
 
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well system has been running now for 1 week...it is awesome


3 1.5 inch bulkheads...

pump is a super dart

looking at the sump there is no bubbles on siphon and non siphon as a trickle of bubbles....

you cant go wrong with this technique....

the one thing that is apparent....don't try this without a good gate valve...it is essential....


Larry

this is running..no bubbles

Larry, nice job! Good-looking tank. How many gallons is it? (Is your sump acrylic or glass? It looks like glass, but there is a lip on the sump that looks acrylic.)
 
sorry if this question's already been answered but can you replace the T's and end-caps for the siphon & emergency with elbows instead?

Cheers!
 
well system has been running now for 1 week...it is awesome


3 1.5 inch bulkheads...

pump is a super dart

looking at the sump there is no bubbles on siphon and non siphon as a trickle of bubbles....

you cant go wrong with this technique....

the one thing that is apparent....don't try this without a good gate valve...it is essential....


Larry

this is running..no bubbles


Looks great!
 
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