Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[ToLearn]

Maybe dump the pads now and use other forms of filtration. Convert the sump to almost be like a reef tank set up and you are part of the way there.

What type of fish do you have in the dispaly? Certain fresh water fish can hand more water flow then others. One option would be to get Vortech or Tunze power heads which you can adjust the speed on. Set them to the slowest speed for now while you are still in the fresh water and yank up the speed when you get to salt. Or just convert over now.

 

[sctoutkast]

Maybe dump the pads now and use other forms of filtration. Convert the sump to almost be like a reef tank set up and you are part of the way there.

What type of fish do you have in the dispaly? Certain fresh water fish can hand more water flow then others. One option would be to get Vortech or Tunze power heads which you can adjust the speed on. Set them to the slowest speed for now while you are still in the fresh water and yank up the speed when you get to salt. Or just convert over now.

ToLearn: I have mostly Tropheus Lufubu, Petro. Bulu Red, and a few Lamprologus ocellatus gold. The problem with dumping the pads for now is what is going to catch all the waste that falls into the sump because I'm not running a protein skimmer for filtration I simply rely on the pads, matrix, and Kaldnes K1 Media for a moving filtration together to complete the sump. If the first part of the sump doesn't catch the large waste particles, the rest of the sump won't either simply because it is used for bio media. The first part of the sump is the key (for my system) as to using a protein skimmer on a reef tank. I guess I could simply wait to incorporate this type of system but I wanted to get a head start on the conversion. As for right now I don't want to convert due to me moving in a few months and because reefing gets costly I don't want to take the risk of something going wrong:sad2: if you know what I mean. Anyhow I have been trying to come up with a solution but simply cant find the best way to do this. I'm sorry for asking questions pertaining to freshwater setups but I just fill that you guys here on ReefCentral know your stuff. Thanks again for the reply. I know once I finally get totally converted over that it will be a very easy transition for me to redo the sump and alter the drains but for now I will most likely just wait until I convert over, unless I can find a way to.

 

[jon1985]

so does the syphone require the bottom of the overflow to be close to it?

I want to put corner overflows in my 180 but they would be full height and the syphone would only be just below the water surface.

Thoughs?

 

[TheFishMan65]

jon,

Not sure I understand. The valve on the siphon will regulate the height of the water in the overflow. In fact you could leave the stand pipe out IMHO. All it does is keep too much water from going into the sump in the event of a power failure.

At the sump end the siphon should empty just below the normal surface level of of the water.

Does this help? If not try and phrase your question differently and i will try again.

 

[Pprice01]

Hello all,

As I make my way through the various options and opinions to this overflow, I have come across and option when working this out with my reef buddies here in Vegas that I would appreciate your feedback on.

When installing the weir, instead of building an overflow internally on the back wall of the tank that then flows through holes into the external overflow, would there be an issue with installing it as part of the side wall instead?

I understand that this would certainly limit my surface skimming, but it would allow me to have a deeper tank than standard as the plumbing and external box would not be in the back, but rather on one side.

I am wondering if I could get the tank manufacturer to actually make the wier out of the side wall by simply making the tank wall itself shorter by the appropriate level maybe 1/2" or 3/4"?

I am thinking that I would then have an external box added to this shorter side wall/weir so that I could run my bean animal drain system.

I would like to eliminate the internal box look as well as reduce costs, and if I shorten the overlow by moving it to the side of the tank maybe it would solve both issues.

I am also thinking that I could build cabinetry would hide the overflow box since the tank is going between two bookshelves - I should be able to disguise it.

Can anyone forsee any flow problems with this design? Any suggestions at all would be greatly appreciated.

If this doesn't make sense please tell me and I'll try to work up a sketch.

 

[afgun]

an option is to cut slots in the rear and hang your box on the back. This gives you the advantages of the design but no room taken from the tank.

 

[Pprice01]

Thank you afgun.

I understand that I can place the box in the back, but I am leaning away from doing that for a couple of reasons:

1. My tank will be going up against a wall where I will not have any access to the plumbing - moving the overflow to the side will allow me critical access.

2. Moving the external overflow box to the side wall will allow me to push the tank backwards all the way up against the wall, thereby allowing me to order a deeper (front to back) tank than if I had the external box and overflow plumbing in the rear of the tank - and still occupy the same footprint depth.

3. I am trying to keep the overflow weir as long as possible, maybe even 30" if I can get a tank that deep through my doorway - so I am trying to utilize the entire side wall of the tank as my overflow/weir by having it cut 1/2" or so shorter than the rest of the tank walls. Perhaps if there is a structural issue with this I can have them cut the side wall in a "U" shape to create a weir of, say 26", so that I can have 2" of the side wall on either side of the weir run the full height of the tank.

I am really trying to understand if cutting the side wall down 1/2" is even possible, creates any potential structural or flow issues, or is rooted in complete and total insanity.

Thanks.

 

[Pprice01]

I moved this to a new thread in general discussion.

 

[shaggss]

Here is what I am planning, not sure if its ok or not though....the center hole is for a return.

If the tank needs bracing and if external weir runs along the back of the tank, then would this effectively be bracing it? Planning on euro bracing for the front & sides if the tank does need it.

 

[TheFishMan65]

Shaggs, I would add a bulkhead through the weir for the return or why have the hole? Right now the return will have to come up the back of the tank, over the back of the weir, down into the weir, and out the hole. Or is that the fourth hole?

Also (I don't know if it is better) consider to return one on each end (2 total). The weir is shortened and the running of the plumbing for the two returns would be simplified. This might mes up the bracing if required. I personally like this idea better. And i may allow some sort of alternating cycle.

 

[autodave]

Here is what I am planning, not sure if its ok or not though....the center hole is for a return.

If the tank needs bracing and if external weir runs along the back of the tank, then would this effectively be bracing it? Planning on euro bracing for the front & sides if the tank does need it.

I'm using a similar design,except it is not full length,my returns (2) come up the sides.It is working great,I would not do another tank without a BeanAnimal drain!

 

[shaggss]

Shaggs, I would add a bulkhead through the weir for the return or why have the hole? Right now the return will have to come up the back of the tank, over the back of the weir, down into the weir, and out the hole. Or is that the fourth hole?

Also (I don't know if it is better) consider to return one on each end (2 total). The weir is shortened and the running of the plumbing for the two returns would be simplified. This might mes up the bracing if required. I personally like this idea better. And i may allow some sort of alternating cycle.

I'm using a similar design,except it is not full length,my returns (2) come up the sides.It is working great,I would not do another tank without a BeanAnimal drain!

TFM65 & autodave

Many thanks for your advice, I have changed the design.

cheers :beer:

 

[rad1687]

I am currently planning out the plumbing of my my new tank. I have a 56 gallon column tank and a 29 gallon sump. I have read through quite a bit of this and still have some questions.

What are the disadvantages of having the overflow external? Do I not receive the skimming advantages?

What size holes should I drill for a 56, and where should they be located?

Sorry again for the dumb questions, but this is my first time using a sump and I would like to set up everything correctly!

 

[stormrider27]

How large (i.e total volume) should an external box be for a 125G tank?

Thanks!
Mark

 

[jasoncw]

Mark, I would say as long as you have an internal weir, the external box only needs to be large enough to house the plumbing for the drain lines. Of course it should also be large enough to cover the holes drilled in the back of the tank to transfer water from the internal to external box.

 

[shaggss]

What are the disadvantages of having the overflow external? Do I not receive the skimming advantages?

I don't see any real disadvantage at all (actually I think it is an Advantage as no real estate is lost inside the DT. Maybe cost as the tank maker will have to cut the back of the tank for the overflow.

What size holes should I drill for a 56, and where should they be located?

The hole size will depend on wether you will use 1" or 1.5" pipe/bulkheads. Bean recommends 1.5". I'll let someone with more knowledge answer on what would be good for you. You can find the dimensions of the bulkheads here.

How large (i.e total volume) should an external box be for a 125G tank?

I remember reading that Bean suggested 6" deep for the weir, to avoid any water vortex. Though I think on a 125G you should be ok to go slightly shallower.

 

[stormrider27]

I don't see any real disadvantage at all (actually I think it is an Advantage as no real estate is lost inside the DT. Maybe cost as the tank maker will have to cut the back of the tank for the overflow.



The hole size will depend on wether you will use 1" or 1.5" pipe/bulkheads. Bean recommends 1.5". I'll let someone with more knowledge answer on what would be good for you. You can find the dimensions of the bulkheads here.



I remember reading that Bean suggested 6" deep for the weir, to avoid any water vortex. Though I think on a 125G you should be ok to go slightly shallower.

Doesn't the weir go on the inside of the tank? I am refering to the box on the outside of the tank which the water flows into after going over the weir. Am I tottaly messed up here?

 

[brackishdude]

Mark, I would say as long as you have an internal weir, the external box only needs to be large enough to house the plumbing for the drain lines. Of course it should also be large enough to cover the holes drilled in the back of the tank to transfer water from the internal to external box.

can I get an amen!!

I think this design is the current champ in the Calfo coast-to-coast --- dusro/stockman --- Herbie -- Beananimal-overflow functional aesthetics evolution.

The visible internal weir can be narrow, and the external box not long and off to one side for access. That leaves plenty of room for returns over the back.

The tank itself only has 2-3 holes drilled in the back wall.

 

[snulma1]

Hopefully I can get some help here....

I am currently setting up a 30g cube tank. I didn't have the space to do 3 drains so I went with 2 (I don't have the upturned elbow drain/emergency).

Both of the drain elbows are at the same height, however, the drain I want to have the main siphon on has an extension on it to make it deeper.

while priming the system, I turned the valve on the siphon off and let the drain tube fill. Once it was filled and the system had enough reserve, I turned on the return pump and opened the valve.

Here is my problem, while my drain is keeping up with my Mag7, it is not silent. not by a long shot. I am still getting air. Can anyone tell me how to fix this? Thanks

 

[Pprice01]

Help, I'm designing my new tank and need opinions for my overflow

Help, I'm designing my new tank and need opinions for my overflow

Hello All,

I am embarking on a 150g+ tank (peninsula style with one side viewable) with the Bean overflow and want to make sure that I have everything (as much as reasonable) covered before I have them add anything or drill any holes, so your help here is critical.

Here are the issues I am having difficulty getting clear answers to:

1. Overflow placement - is there any problem(s) with putting my overflow on the side instead of the back? For space reasons I think that this would work best, and I would opt for a 24" D tank so that I could get the whole 24" of surface skimming.

1. Does it make any difference if I just make a false wall 1/2" lower than the tank lip and 4" or so from the side (this will become my weir and overflow) and plumb up through the bottom of the tank for the bean setup? This based against the overflow in Bean's original design with a 4"x6" "weir/overflow box" created interally at the top of the tank. I can do either it just might be cheaper to do the wall instead of the "box" and I want to make sure that there isn't an inherent issue of one vs. the other.

2. Flow - are their any problems created by the peninsula style overflow on one end of the tank? I believe that I can have powerheads and the returns routed any way I want, so should I have other holes drilled for the returns, or maybe plan on running locline or something along the bottom rear wall with multiple outlets to blast the rocks? Should the flow go in a vertical circle from bottom under the overflow out to the opposite end of the tank and then up to some returs/powerheads which will then push it back along the top to the overflow? A little help here will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

Paul