Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[afgun]

What's all the other stuff?

Closed loop system. The bulkheads in the center of the back wall are the intake. They feed a Hammerhead wet end that I have just put onto a VFD controlled motor. The output goes to an OceansMotions 4-way that rotates output between the manifolds on the bottom of the tank (since modified to have only 4 outlets) and the outer 2 manifolds on the top of the tank that are equipped with loc-line to direct flow. The center 2 manifolds on the top of the tank are again equipped with loc-line, but are fed by the return pump (currently a Dart). This should give more than enough flow to keep whatever we want in the tank.

 

[snulma1]

I don't mean to sound like a broken record... but the design works properly if built to the specification. You do not have to guess which standpipe will siphon and which will flow open channel.

Your standpipes are exiting too deep into the sump or they are not built as described on my site or the begining of this thread

No, you are not sounding like a broken record, but I must have missed the part in your earlier description which talked about depth of the exit hose. But I have since found that out by trial and error! I have corrected this problem and am now running at 95% silence (just the occasional air bubble).

 

[SkyReef]

Does Sump Below Bean's System Require a "Bubble Trap"?

Does Sump Below Bean's System Require a "Bubble Trap"?

Hey, all:

I apologize if this question is too far afield, but it was prompted during my implementation of Bean's overflow design.

Does the sump below Bean's 3-standpipe system require a "bubble trap" (i.e., a series of closely-spaced, overflow and underflow panes situated beyond the first chamber or protein skimmer), to prevent micro bubbles from re-entering the tank above?

I am designing my glass sump now, after having installed the Calfo/Coast-to-Coast Overflow box, per Bean's specifications. In planning out the future locations of various chamber walls of my sump below, I was looking at Uncleof6's sump that used Bean's design (see Thread No. 2781 on p. 112 above). It looks as if Uncleof6's implementation of Bean's design, with respect to how the standpipes drain into the sump, reveals that he is not using the often-used, 3-pane-"bubble-trap" apparatus in his sump.

I know that the siphon pipe in Bean's design does not produce any bubbles in the sump, when correctly executed, because it is a siphon, not an open channel pipe. As well, I know that the open-channel pipe in Bean's design draws air into the mix of down-rushing water. So, I know that some bubbles will be introduced in to the sump below, but probably less than the typical system's drain line into a typical sump--thanks to Bean's siphon-standpipe design.

So, in the end, does Bean's system reduce bubbles entering the sump to such a significant degree that the 3-pane-bubble-trap design can be dispensed with, altogther, and not used in the sump below?

If so (as Uncleof6's picture below seems to show), that would be welcome news to me because my sump is quite small and I could really use the real estate in my sump for other purposes.

Your thoughts would be most appreciated. By the way, here is the picture that Uncleof6 posted in Thread No. 2781 on p. 112 above (photo courtesy of Uncleof6):

.

Thanks.

 

[autodave]

My tank does not produce any micro-bubbles from the Beananimal drain,neither the siphon or the open channel.If there is to much flow in the open channel you can clearly see it producing bubbles.My skimmer is the only cause of micro-bubbles

 

[bennyhanna1]

I had a 40g AGA Breeder and would like to implement an external overflow box, does anyone have experience with drilling a wide weir like pictured here? Does it involve drilling a pilot hole and then dremeling out the long cutout? I'd like to not have to do an internal overflow box as well as external

 

[golf nut]

So, in the end, does Bean's system reduce bubbles entering the sump to such a significant degree that the 3-pane-bubble-trap design can be dispensed with, altogther?

Yes

 

[shaggss]

nevermind.......found the answers!

nevermind.......found the answers!

nevermind.......found the answers!

 

[BeanAnimal]

You do need at least one "over" baffle to set a static water level in the intake area. This will ensure that water levels fluctuations (flow rate changes, evaporation, etc) do not upset the system balance....

A single over baffle will also have the effect of letting detritus and other stuff settle in the intake chamber where it can then be regularly siphoned out. This is also an idea place to plumb the heater with its head just out of the water. That way it can't ever run dry or become fully submerged, thus eliminating two of the primary causes of heater failure.

 

[SkyReef]

Yes

You do need at least one "over" baffle to set a static water level in the intake area. This will ensure that water levels fluctuations (flow rate changes, evaporation, etc) do not upset the system balance....

A single over baffle will also have the effect of letting detritus and other stuff settle in the intake chamber where it can then be regularly siphoned out. This is also an idea place to plumb the heater with its head just out of the water. That way it can't ever run dry or become fully submerged, thus eliminating two of the primary causes of heater failure.

Awesome. Thanks, Golf and Bean. I will install a single, "over" baffle in the sump to establish the water-level, as Bean describes, but I won't install the 3-baffle-bubble-trap, to save space and unnecessary DIY work.

Thanks, again.

 

[Names Brucey]

Quick questions regarding the thickness of the overflow. I have a 180 (72" long) and am getting ready to re-do my plumbing to incorporate this. I was planning on a coast-to-coast of 48" or 60" long made of acrylic (internal). How thick do you think I need to have the acrylic? I was planning on 1/8 as I don't really see where this is taking any real stress. THoughts?

 

[RocketSurgeon]

Quick questions regarding the thickness of the overflow. I have a 180 (72" long) and am getting ready to re-do my plumbing to incorporate this. I was planning on a coast-to-coast of 48" or 60" long made of acrylic (internal). How thick do you think I need to have the acrylic? I was planning on 1/8 as I don't really see where this is taking any real stress. THoughts?

I don't think 0.125 will work without adding support. There will be more pressure from the outside of the box pushing in causing it to bow. The water level outside the box will be higher than the water level inside the box.

 

[Names Brucey]

I don't think 0.125 will work without adding support. There will be more pressure from the outside of the box pushing in causing it to bow. The water level outside the box will be higher than the water level inside the box.

So do you think going to 1/4 will work? I would like to do glass but can't find anyone locally to cut glass at those lengths without charging me an arm and a leg.

 

[RocketSurgeon]

So do you think going to 1/4 will work? I would like to do glass but can't find anyone locally to cut glass at those lengths without charging me an arm and a leg.

I used .25 glass for mine. .25 Acrylic would need support, in my opinion. I have not used acrylic for an overflow to know first hand.

If you have a glass tank, I recommend using glass baffles, no matter the cost. Last thing you want is to be redoing something because you didn't do it right the first time. If acrylic fails to adhere to the glass for any reason, what will it cost to do it over?

If you have an acrylic tank, use acrylic.

 

[drclifton]

Question: In the last 2,000+ posts has anyone addressed the dilemma of only having 3 holes in an existing overflow (2 drains and a return) and no possibility of adding another or running the return external to the overflow? Can this system still be implemented with only 2 drain holes?

Anyone with knowledge would really save me some time.

 

[RocketSurgeon]

It will not be a beananimal, therefore it will not be failsafe.

You could run it without the emergency overflow, but not recommended.

 

[TheFishMan65]

Look up the Herbie design - it uses two holes.

 

[BeanAnimal]

therefore it will not be failsafe.

Or self tuning over the same broad range...
Or one-size fits such a broad range of flows without any modification or sizing...

 

[SkyReef]

I used .25 glass for mine. .25 Acrylic would need support, in my opinion. I have not used acrylic for an overflow to know first hand.

If you have a glass tank, I recommend using glass baffles, no matter the cost. Last thing you want is to be redoing something because you didn't do it right the first time. If acrylic fails to adhere to the glass for any reason, what will it cost to do it over?

If you have an acrylic tank, use acrylic.

Rocket has a good point. I went for overkill on the overflow box: 3/8" glass, knowing that it would actually add structural strength to the overall tank.

So do you think going to 1/4 will work? I would like to do glass but can't find anyone locally to cut glass at those lengths without charging me an arm and a leg.

Brucey: You're right about cost. It's somewhat pricey.

Here's a question though: Did I err in choosing a much thinner pane for my small sump. On my 3/8-inch glass, 11-gallon-capacity sump (that ordinarily operates at 7 gallons), I went with 1/8" glass on a single-panel divider. I water-tested both chambers in the sump, and the 1/8" glass seems to hold up just fine. So far. Will it hold up over time?

 

[Mitra]

Bean animal - I've spent about 3 hours reviewing the thread - fascinating - I started again at the inital design in 2008 - did the design change over the last 2917 items - if so can you let me know where the final design pictures are.

I'm planning a 315 gallon and wanted to use the design you set out very clearly in 2008.

Much appreciated if you could let me know if I should adjust.

 

[robertifly]

Bean Animal, I have the original design and love, compliments to you but have there beem "design changes" over time found to be impovements by you or others? If so I like Mitra would be interested in seeing that, may in an "Updated version 02,03?" Thanks for the greatest contribution in recent history to the hobby, Robert.