Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
Gieser
Member
Bean,
This thread is great info and I am enjoying reading it to learn more. I do have one question that may be obvious, but I have not seen a similar setup, yet. My overflows will be external and will drain from the bottom. There won't be any holes in the back of the box like so many of the people have done here for standpipes, etc. Is it still possible to create a "herbie" or silent set up with the drain holes in the bottom of the overflow and not in the back?
This thread is great info and I am enjoying reading it to learn more. I do have one question that may be obvious, but I have not seen a similar setup, yet. My overflows will be external and will drain from the bottom. There won't be any holes in the back of the box like so many of the people have done here for standpipes, etc. Is it still possible to create a "herbie" or silent set up with the drain holes in the bottom of the overflow and not in the back?
Reefer2727
New member
Greetings...
I have been reading this thread all week. Excellent information and thanks again Bean for all your contributions.
Bean, you mentioned that this system would work for a lower flowing set up. Would you recommend your design for a system that has a flow in the 600-800 gph range? I have a 75 gallon tank and soon to be 35 gallon sump.
I had read a few threads where people had mentioned that they had nothing coming through their second pipe. Perhaps their systems were not tweaked appropriately.
Wondering what the minimum flow would be for this set up to be successful.
Thanks again.
I have been reading this thread all week. Excellent information and thanks again Bean for all your contributions.
Bean, you mentioned that this system would work for a lower flowing set up. Would you recommend your design for a system that has a flow in the 600-800 gph range? I have a 75 gallon tank and soon to be 35 gallon sump.
I had read a few threads where people had mentioned that they had nothing coming through their second pipe. Perhaps their systems were not tweaked appropriately.
Wondering what the minimum flow would be for this set up to be successful.
Thanks again.
Reefer2727
New member
Also,
Is there a consensus on what the best way to brace all the plumbing behind the tank is?
Is there a consensus on what the best way to brace all the plumbing behind the tank is?
So I reread the thread... that's alot of work! Bean I must say your a patient guy, answer the same, again and again.... read the thread people.
Never really found my answer of feeding my skimmer directly so I guess I'll just try it, tough to experiment on changes with 350g display tank and change and reroute, I'll just build in another pump bulk head into my sump in case I have to pump supply my skimmer.
The reason I think it may not work is people seem to have issues when the drain is submerged to far in the sump. Feeding the skimmer direct will cause the same if not more back pressure? So I don't know? That is why I asked if anyone is having success feeding a large skimmer directly? Enough babble...
uncleof6
Active member
I have read this thread cover to cover also, and perhaps it is not addressed directly, however it is addressed. The people having the most problems with this design, just can't seem to get it "dialed in," think it does not work--cause they cannot get it to work, is usually because they have modded the design, tried to build a better mousetrap, tried to save a buck or two, what have you. This system works as designed. Any (maybe that needs qualifying) modifications, are at some point likely to cause a problem. Bean can tell me I am wrong, and I won't mind, because he knows this system better than anyone. Skimmers are finicky all on their own, and adding this variable to this drain design seems a bit ridiculous if you ask me. By nature, we all like to tinker with things. But messing with the drain system of a 350gal is beyond tinkering.
Some skimmers out there are designed for a gravity feed, most are not, so you are again adding another variable to the mix. If wanting to gravity feed, fine go ahead and gravity feed, use the right skimmer, and a separate drain system for it-- and make sure it is foolproof also.
Sorry for the interruption, someday a better mousetrap may develop,
but until it does, I would not risk a couple hundred gallons of water all over the place by messing (modifying) with this design.
Regards,
Jim
jjk_reef00
New member
Question: I am going to use this setup for a new tank and am new to pluming. How do people typically connect the pvc to the bulkhead? PVC glue / or teflon tape with the thread?
If you glue it can the bulkhead ever be removed and used again?
My concern is the siphon must be a strong seal. Glue seems better, however I would like to be able to remove the bulkhead and reuse it (I'll be moving in a year).
If you glue it can the bulkhead ever be removed and used again?
My concern is the siphon must be a strong seal. Glue seems better, however I would like to be able to remove the bulkhead and reuse it (I'll be moving in a year).
MrSpiffy
Premium Member
Bean,
Awesome idea for a new drain! I saw your thread a while back and figured I wouldn't need it, since I wasn't planning on upgrading/building anytime soon. But... plans have changed!
What size drains would you recommend on a 65G tank? I was thinking 3/4" would be okay, but figured I'd ask. Flow would only be 300-400GPH max.
Also, what's your take on this design versus, say, the Hofer Gurgle Buster design?
Thanks!
Awesome idea for a new drain! I saw your thread a while back and figured I wouldn't need it, since I wasn't planning on upgrading/building anytime soon. But... plans have changed!
What size drains would you recommend on a 65G tank? I was thinking 3/4" would be okay, but figured I'd ask. Flow would only be 300-400GPH max.
Also, what's your take on this design versus, say, the Hofer Gurgle Buster design?
Thanks!
Imzadi
New member
I wressled with that one for a while to. The pipe is supposed to go IN the bulkhead, from what I understand, and the threads are only for the nut. (correct me if I am wrong someone) And I even took mine one step further, and cut the threads down on the bulkhead, so that I could glue an elbow into it, and get it closer to the wall.
I need to do that red house thing... (link to the Salt Water Fiasco thread as I have named it.) I'll do that now.
Reefer2727
New member
Imzadi,
So you don't run the drain full open? You only have flow coming through one pipe or is the gated one your second with the other full open? I am also wondering how this set up runs with lower flow conditions.
So you don't run the drain full open? You only have flow coming through one pipe or is the gated one your second with the other full open? I am also wondering how this set up runs with lower flow conditions.
Imzadi
New member
If I run the siphon pipe full open it ALONE is too much for the pump, and is not using the vented drain. If I cut the siphon line back a little, it stops over taking it, and stops sucking air... and if I gate it a little more, the C-2-C rises a little more, and I get a trickle out of the vented line. If for what ever reason the siphon line gets fouled, I will still have the vented line to take up the slack. It would run vented, until the water level got all the way up to the vent hose, and trip in into siphon mode... and if it still rises, in a true 3 pipe BeanAnimal set-up, the third 'holy crap' upright drain is the 4th safety.
So I would bet, even with 3/4" pipe that you would be dialing the siphon line back for a 300-400 gph flow... with plenty of room on both sides of the flow for adjustment, and upgrades. I would hazard a guess that the 3/4" could even keep up with my 9.5, but I would be leary. So, I think for your flow requirements, the 3/4"pipe, with a gate, with a BeanAnimal rig-up... you would be set.
In my opinion, at least.
MrSpiffy
Premium Member
Thanks for the advice, Imzadi. I don't even know if I'll be running 300gph through my return, simply because if I run more than about 200gph I start getting some microbubbles through the sump and into the display. (Probably not the best design of a sump, I'd guess...) Hopefully I can give this a try and see just how quiet it can really be.
tonyespinoza
Premium Member
Does anyone know a place where I can look up the maximum flow through various pipe sizes? I'm mostly interested in 1.5", 1.25", 1", and 0.75".
uncleof6
Active member
I have been able to remove bulkheads with pipe glued to them a couple of times. if you cut the pipe, they can be taken out, problem is too many times... and they are done. Pipe gets too short. But with a sanitary tee butted right up against the bulkhead they are pretty much both done. If you are cleaver, you can cut between them and bore them out on a lathe, that works pretty well. Did that one time to prove some one wrong. Glued it all back up and it was fine. (luck?) They do make bulheads with female threads at both ends may be hard to find. And the outside threads on some bulkheads match the female threads of fittings. I don't recall whcih matches which though. I hate losin bulkheads myself.
Jim
Rocketboy52
New member
I've been a lurker on this post for quite some time, but I finally posting since I have something to show. I'm a believer in this idea and started my build using this overflow setup. I'm doing an external overflow however that looks like this:
I haven't got water in the tank yet, but hope to in the next week or two. I just started a build thread detailing the master plan here:
90 Gallon Build/DIY mod
I haven't got water in the tank yet, but hope to in the next week or two. I just started a build thread detailing the master plan here:
90 Gallon Build/DIY mod
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