Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
stormrider27
Member
Will this work?
Will this work?
Will this work?
great thread, hope to try this method someday, for now I'll deal with the loud noise from the sump.
But to get started I have a tank that is predrilled in the bottom, back left corner with a black overflow from the top to the bottom. There are two holes for two 1.5" pipes. The one pipe is a dorso stand pipe and the other is the return pipe. The glass is tempered. Is there a way of doing this type of plumbing with only two holes?
But to get started I have a tank that is predrilled in the bottom, back left corner with a black overflow from the top to the bottom. There are two holes for two 1.5" pipes. The one pipe is a dorso stand pipe and the other is the return pipe. The glass is tempered. Is there a way of doing this type of plumbing with only two holes?
uncleof6
Active member
Not if you want to keep the third safety drain. Granted, the third pipe should be "dry" unless the other two plug up. With no other options such removing the overflow and popping some holes in the back, for a different style overflow, you are kinda stuck with just the two drains. Those two drains will perform as expected. As long as you don't further modify things. (provided you can fit them in the corner overflow. ) Bean hasn't been here for a while, dunno why.
HTH,
Jim
HTH,
Jim
Reefer2727
New member
Thanks for all the info. I am about to have my tank drilled and have a few questions.
The tank is a 75 gallon with a 35 gallon sump. I am wondering what size holes should I have drilled? And what size bulkhead? I know Bean used a 1" bulkhead and says larger would work. Is it just easier to go with 1.5" bulkhead if all the plumbing will also be 1.5"??
Also, I hear some people say that they have a hard time getting the siphon line going usually due to air trapped in the pipe. Would anyone recommend drilling this siphon drain hole a little lower than the vented open drain and the emergency drain? If so, how much lower?
Thanks again.
The tank is a 75 gallon with a 35 gallon sump. I am wondering what size holes should I have drilled? And what size bulkhead? I know Bean used a 1" bulkhead and says larger would work. Is it just easier to go with 1.5" bulkhead if all the plumbing will also be 1.5"??
Also, I hear some people say that they have a hard time getting the siphon line going usually due to air trapped in the pipe. Would anyone recommend drilling this siphon drain hole a little lower than the vented open drain and the emergency drain? If so, how much lower?
Thanks again.
uncleof6
Active member
I would think that keeping everything 1.5" would be the ticket, but the 1" works fine. Bean used 1" because that was what he had in the tank already. I suspect that the reason the siphon does not start is because the pipe is too deep in the sump. But aside from that, IIRC it was bean that suggested that the Open channel could be moved up a bit to help kick start the siphon. Or at least he said that should probably be ok. IIRC it was like 1/2." It is unfortunate that you only get one shot at getting that right. I do know it is in the thread somewhere.
Jim
peteralexander
New member
Mflamb do you think you could take a pic of your pipes going under the tank. Would love to see how you have that set up.
Reefer2727
New member
Ok...I will have my siphon drain drilled 1/4" lower than the other two holes. Just to clarify when I say siphon drain I am referring to the primary drain that will be valved...not the vented overflow open drain. Correct to drill siphon lower?
What size holes for a 1.5" bulkheads?
Also, I know it has been dealt with before but cant find anything in the thread.
Would I be better off running 1" piping instead of 1.5" if I am planning on running under 750 gph? I am not planning on getting a big return pump. The pumps I am looking at are around 1000 gph before head loss. Just wondering if I will even use the second pipe with a flow around 700. Would it be quieter with 1" piping and definitely uitilizing both pipes?? Or will valving the 1.5" work fine??
So confusing for those that have never had a drilled tank before. Also so hard to find specific info in the thread.
Thanks for the patience.
What size holes for a 1.5" bulkheads?
Also, I know it has been dealt with before but cant find anything in the thread.
Would I be better off running 1" piping instead of 1.5" if I am planning on running under 750 gph? I am not planning on getting a big return pump. The pumps I am looking at are around 1000 gph before head loss. Just wondering if I will even use the second pipe with a flow around 700. Would it be quieter with 1" piping and definitely uitilizing both pipes?? Or will valving the 1.5" work fine??
So confusing for those that have never had a drilled tank before. Also so hard to find specific info in the thread.
Thanks for the patience.
Correct on the siphon being lower, but the emergency drain need not be. Either way you can adjust the final height of it as needed.
2-3/8" - but check the bulkheads you will be using... Some are different.
Bean installed 1" bulkheads, and then up-sized the intaked ( flange or "wet" side) to 1-1/2".... At the flow rate of 750 gph - no problem, lots of head room. Quietness....? If you choose the 1-1/2", you may want to place the valve as low as you can ( near the sump) so that the pipe stays filled to that point. If you place the valve high (near tank drain) you may hear the water more because the pipe will not be full, and the water will be turbulent as it crashes/spills/ falls down the pipe.... Make sense?
2-3/8" - but check the bulkheads you will be using... Some are different.
Bean installed 1" bulkheads, and then up-sized the intaked ( flange or "wet" side) to 1-1/2".... At the flow rate of 750 gph - no problem, lots of head room. Quietness....? If you choose the 1-1/2", you may want to place the valve as low as you can ( near the sump) so that the pipe stays filled to that point. If you place the valve high (near tank drain) you may hear the water more because the pipe will not be full, and the water will be turbulent as it crashes/spills/ falls down the pipe.... Make sense?
Reefer2727
New member
Thanks teesquare.
So a 2 3/8" for the hole size for a 1.5" bulkhead. Bigger than I thought.
What you say about the valve being as close to the sump as possible makes sense.
Do you think this pipe would be full if it was 1"?
I just saw on a site that a 1.5" bulkhead gives a max of 1300 gph while a 1" bulkhead has a max of 600 gph. Are these numbers accurate?
So a 2 3/8" for the hole size for a 1.5" bulkhead. Bigger than I thought.
What you say about the valve being as close to the sump as possible makes sense.
Do you think this pipe would be full if it was 1"?
I just saw on a site that a 1.5" bulkhead gives a max of 1300 gph while a 1" bulkhead has a max of 600 gph. Are these numbers accurate?
www.jehmco.com is a good reference for bulkheads and hole sizes for each
At 1" the likelyhood is that the pipe would be full - if the target was 700 gph
I think the numbers are accurate for a typical drain scenario. But this is not a typical drain.... It is a siphon. I do not know the numbers - but I think you will see greater than 600gph in this application. And, if you install a ball or better - an all plastic gate valve - (make sure whatever you use is FULL FLOW) on the discharge or pressure side of the pump, you should be able to tweak and tune to match any deficit in the 1'' siphon, without relying on the vent. This will be the most quiet set up. If you exceed the siphon such that the vented pipe has to kick in, you will get a trickling sound in that pipe. So, I think the 1" plumbing ( 1" pipe requires 1-3/4'' holes ) will be adequate, without being too big, and "clumsy" to tune, and hide, and will be less difficult to plumb in general. Less money too!
T
At 1" the likelyhood is that the pipe would be full - if the target was 700 gph
I think the numbers are accurate for a typical drain scenario. But this is not a typical drain.... It is a siphon. I do not know the numbers - but I think you will see greater than 600gph in this application. And, if you install a ball or better - an all plastic gate valve - (make sure whatever you use is FULL FLOW) on the discharge or pressure side of the pump, you should be able to tweak and tune to match any deficit in the 1'' siphon, without relying on the vent. This will be the most quiet set up. If you exceed the siphon such that the vented pipe has to kick in, you will get a trickling sound in that pipe. So, I think the 1" plumbing ( 1" pipe requires 1-3/4'' holes ) will be adequate, without being too big, and "clumsy" to tune, and hide, and will be less difficult to plumb in general. Less money too!
T
Taqpol
New member
Hey Bean, I'm going to be installing your overflow system on a 120g over this weekend. I found most of the parts I need at the local home depot, but I could not find a 1.5" sanitary tee or the 1.5"x1" Street elbow. I looked at www.savko.com but their site confuses me and I couldn't tell if they had what i needed or not. Where would you go about getting these parts, or could you tell me how to find them on savko's web site?
Reefer2727
New member
Decisions...Cheaper is better but I am not looking really looking to save money. Just want a good safe and quiet set up that won't need more than 1000 gph.
It just seems to me that if you are not using your vented pipe (2nd) is there any point? Will it still be quiet if that 1st pipe isnt running a full siphon??
It just seems to me that if you are not using your vented pipe (2nd) is there any point? Will it still be quiet if that 1st pipe isnt running a full siphon??
If you justify the extra room, and hole sizing, go for the 1-1/2" then. It will allow you more flow if you ever want to upgrade your pump.
If I understand - yes, the point of the vented pipe is for the OH SH$%!!!!! situations. It is a great comfort knowing that there are
Reefer2727
2 redundant safeties in this design. Truly originated by a married man!
Well.... that is what the valve is for. Tune the valve until it is running full.
I prefer gate valves, but others are just fine with ball valves. I find gate valves easier to tune, just FWIW.
T
If I understand - yes, the point of the vented pipe is for the OH SH$%!!!!! situations. It is a great comfort knowing that there are
Reefer2727
2 redundant safeties in this design. Truly originated by a married man!
Well.... that is what the valve is for. Tune the valve until it is running full.
I prefer gate valves, but others are just fine with ball valves. I find gate valves easier to tune, just FWIW.
T
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