Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
- Thread starter JohnL
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RocketSurgeon
New member
I have found that I have had to open my valve all the way and "flush" the line, as I have had a similar problem. After performing this twice in a row, everything has been fine. Why I noticed it after turning off my pumps to feed one time...I don't know.
Speaking of which, I have been meaning to mark the position of the valve now that it is reset, so hopefully it will make it easier to adjust next time this happens. Maybe I should go now, before I forget.
Speaking of which, I have been meaning to mark the position of the valve now that it is reset, so hopefully it will make it easier to adjust next time this happens. Maybe I should go now, before I forget.
rayn
New member
If you do that then you will have major water drainage back into your sump. I did mine by drilling the returns back through the c2c. If you have the three drains, two returns that go through your overflow then you would need 7 bulkheads total. The two in the overflow aren't critical for leaks either.
I bought all my fittings today!!!
I plan to have a coast to coast internal weir 1.5'' from back of tank and 4-5'' tall and drill 3- 1 3/4 holes in back of tank and cover them w/ an external glass box.
This is the cardboard mock up of my external box and how i hope the 3 drain system will sit in it. I for got to get the 1.5 reduction to 1'' to fit my 1'' bulk heads and then the 1'' to 1.5 after bulk heads. Dimensions of the external box are 28''x5x5.
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i will probably have to increase the height of the external box so emergency can have a little more room at top. I will probably increase it to 28x5x6
What u think?
I plan to have a coast to coast internal weir 1.5'' from back of tank and 4-5'' tall and drill 3- 1 3/4 holes in back of tank and cover them w/ an external glass box.
This is the cardboard mock up of my external box and how i hope the 3 drain system will sit in it. I for got to get the 1.5 reduction to 1'' to fit my 1'' bulk heads and then the 1'' to 1.5 after bulk heads. Dimensions of the external box are 28''x5x5.
<a href="http://s461.photobucket.com/albums/qq340/ludinano/?action=view¤t=utf-8BSU1BRzAyMTcuanBn.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i461.photobucket.com/albums/qq340/ludinano/utf-8BSU1BRzAyMTcuanBn.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s461.photobucket.com/albums/qq340/ludinano/?action=view¤t=utf-8BSU1BRzAyMTguanBn.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i461.photobucket.com/albums/qq340/ludinano/utf-8BSU1BRzAyMTguanBn.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
i will probably have to increase the height of the external box so emergency can have a little more room at top. I will probably increase it to 28x5x6
What u think?
Embarking on this project. The only thing I don't see reference (or at least I can't find it) is what size pipe should be used for the return? Found a shop that will drill the back of a used 72g bow front I picked up last week. Bottom glass is clearly labeled with the tempered do not drill sticker. Hopefully the back is not tempered. I don't see any etched markings in any corner.
Thanks
Gus
Thanks
Gus
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Return plumbing should be as large a diameter as you can fit and live with aestheticaly.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Ludi... You can cut the bushing down to fit flush with the San-Tees or just use the larger 90's. Either way you can save a bit of space and shorten the crest of the weir.
dlp211
I made my internal overflow box about 4" short from each side to make the drilling and aesthetics of the returns as good as possible. Also easier. No drilling through the overflow box. All I can say is the surface skimming of covering about 80% is outstanding! And I do not have swirling or eddys in the corners. My tank is smaller though, with two ehiem 1262's pumping, so my water flow is pretty strong. I'm sure a CtoC is a bit more efficient, but I can't imagine it's that much. I'm very happy the way mine works. JMHO.
Chasman
I made my internal overflow box about 4" short from each side to make the drilling and aesthetics of the returns as good as possible. Also easier. No drilling through the overflow box. All I can say is the surface skimming of covering about 80% is outstanding! And I do not have swirling or eddys in the corners. My tank is smaller though, with two ehiem 1262's pumping, so my water flow is pretty strong. I'm sure a CtoC is a bit more efficient, but I can't imagine it's that much. I'm very happy the way mine works. JMHO.
Chasman
dlp211
New member
Chasman,
Well I am contemplating whether to go with a CtoC or one that gives some room on both sides, but either way what I am thinking for my overflow is a design like this.
That is slightly slanted...say 10 degrees and then I am going to notch it every inch with a 1/4" x 1/16" notch. Then I am going to take 1/2" thick egg crate and notch it every inch 1/4" x 1/16". This will give me a grate to make sure no live stock gets in. The grate should also be flush, I just have to make sure I get my notch at the right angle.
Well I am contemplating whether to go with a CtoC or one that gives some room on both sides, but either way what I am thinking for my overflow is a design like this.
That is slightly slanted...say 10 degrees and then I am going to notch it every inch with a 1/4" x 1/16" notch. Then I am going to take 1/2" thick egg crate and notch it every inch 1/4" x 1/16". This will give me a grate to make sure no live stock gets in. The grate should also be flush, I just have to make sure I get my notch at the right angle.
Bean-
After re-reading your first post on this i saw you had already had tank drilled for 1'' bulkheads, and uped plumbing to 1.5, Is the 1.5 necessary if i plan to run 800gph through this system, or after my bulk heads can i just run 1''?
What thickness glass would you recomend for my external box?
which silicone would be best for this box? (obviously i want the strongest i can get)
how much height above the emergency drain would you recomend?
After re-reading your first post on this i saw you had already had tank drilled for 1'' bulkheads, and uped plumbing to 1.5, Is the 1.5 necessary if i plan to run 800gph through this system, or after my bulk heads can i just run 1''?
What thickness glass would you recomend for my external box?
which silicone would be best for this box? (obviously i want the strongest i can get)
how much height above the emergency drain would you recomend?
ludiNano,
here is my $0.02 for what it is worth,
This system is capable of running anywhere from a trickle to over 2000 gph as the OP configured it. So 800 gph would be very doable through 1" plumbing. The concern (depending on many factors) would be possible noise, though I think it is unlikely that you would have a noise issue at 800gph with 1" plumbing, I think you just have to watch out for your adjustment on the non-syphon line so that it didn't get too much water under normal operation and thus create noise.
I am no glass expert...but, I made my 5"x10"x24" external box out of 1/4" glass and it feels plenty robust. So I think that your dimensions of 5x5x28 would also be suitable for 1/4" glass.
I used RTV 103/108, which is a reef safe adhesive, not just a sealant/caulk, it's better suited for constructing aquariums and in this case external overflows. (you can search this site for silicone and find it mentioned many times.)
here is my $0.02 for what it is worth,
This system is capable of running anywhere from a trickle to over 2000 gph as the OP configured it. So 800 gph would be very doable through 1" plumbing. The concern (depending on many factors) would be possible noise, though I think it is unlikely that you would have a noise issue at 800gph with 1" plumbing, I think you just have to watch out for your adjustment on the non-syphon line so that it didn't get too much water under normal operation and thus create noise.
I am no glass expert...but, I made my 5"x10"x24" external box out of 1/4" glass and it feels plenty robust. So I think that your dimensions of 5x5x28 would also be suitable for 1/4" glass.
I used RTV 103/108, which is a reef safe adhesive, not just a sealant/caulk, it's better suited for constructing aquariums and in this case external overflows. (you can search this site for silicone and find it mentioned many times.)
Anyone know where I can find a drill to cut glass? I couldn't find anything at Lowes this weekend. Drill or bulkheads...
Been sifting through this thread for a few days now. Tons of info, it's almost overwhelming. Would a 1" bulkhead need a 1" or larger drill?
Sorry for the dumb questions, it's just that I don't have anything to reference.
Thank
Gus
Been sifting through this thread for a few days now. Tons of info, it's almost overwhelming. Would a 1" bulkhead need a 1" or larger drill?
Sorry for the dumb questions, it's just that I don't have anything to reference.
Thank
Gus
TheFishMan65
New member
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
The proper hole size depends on the bulkhead. When you purchase your bulkheads you will be able to determine the size. In some cases the sizes are listed on the order page or product information page, in others, on a sticker or card that comes with the bulkhead.
Bulkhead diameters vary; measure before you buy your bits. Diamond hole saws are the recommended cutter for glass. Glass Holes sells bulkheads and the cutting bits. Local places such as Grainger and McMaster-Carr may also have them. Your LFS sells bulkheads, and check with your local reef club to see if someone has the cutting bits you can rent or borrow if you're only going to cut a couple of holes...
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