Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[ram1500]

Bean,
Been getting alot of bubbles coming out the open channel for 4 days straight. Started after a planned power outage this week. System been running since april with no problems and built to your specs without deviation. Both syphon and open channels exit about 2" below the water in the same chamber in the sump. Any ideas?

 

[BeanAnimal]

The open channel is likely taking more flow than it was before the outage... So the system is in balance, but leaning toward rich on the open channel. This could be due to displaced organic material in the standpipes or overflow box, etc.

During my rare "regular" system maintenance I fully open the valve on the siphon and fully close it to dislodge any buildup. Some bubbles are to be expected in the outflow of the open channel, the key is that they are nowhere near is fine or as numerous as a regular durso so the don't travel very far and make no noise

 

[The Computer Ox]

I apologize if this was already answered, but is it ok to use 1" pipe on the outside of the tank instead of 1.5"? I have a 46g tank, if it matters.

This thread and design is fantastic. I look forward to this system and the redundancy it offers.

 

[fns]

I have read quite a bit on here, and was wondering if anyone had success on a RR Aqueon/AGA tank. I have 2 overflows, and what I wanted to do was make the designated return lines the emergency drains, and one drain the siphon, and open channel. I didn't want to put both emergency drains in one overflow since the water wouldn't move around as much. Would something like this work?

anyone?

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Here's the system I just set up.

The return pump is a Reefflo Dart with a 5 foot vertical 1.5" return line into a 6 foot plenum tapped with 12 outlets and 20 jets, so there should not be a great amount of head loss. I'm expecting about 3000 GPH (that's what the weir is rated for). The drain head is about 48" from tank water level to sump water level, according to Bean's calculator the 1.5" drain line can handle over 5000 GPH. I guess I could have gone with 1.25" plumbing, but oh well. Gotta put the Cepex valve to work, right? I will probably add a strainer so that'll cut the drain flow down a bit.

This is all 1.5" plumbing. From the returns down is solvent welded. I still have to add extensions into the sump. The water level with pump off in the intake section will be 6" (12" tall sump) and operating level will rise up approximately 1.5-2", so I was going to terminate all lines at 1" above power-off waterline (per the BeanAnimal site original design suggestion)

I was planning on just doing friction fit with the standpipes in the overflow box as everything is pretty tight, but I also have Teflon paste. Is that stuff reef safe to use on submerged fittings? If not, I can solvent weld everything except the vertical section of pipe between the bulkhead and the 90 on the siphon and tee on the open channel.

The standpipes in the box are not shown in their final positions. I will likely lower the siphon down as far as possible, and raise the emergency standpipe so that it is just above the maximum tank water line. My question is regarding the height of the open channel.

I was planning on positioning it such that the centerline of the horizontal section of the open channel pipe is about even with the bottom of the notch in the end of the tank. My thought on this being that the water level in the box will be slightly lower than the tank water level. The notch is 1.5" and should run about 3000 GPH at 3/4" above the notch. Is this just something that is going to take some experimentation to get right, or can I plan ahead to a certain point?

I have dreamed of running one of these system ever since I came across this thread...thanks ahead of time!!!

PS I haven't secured the plumbing yet - that will also be done.

 

[crossleymarko]

how do i remove water particals in the water column with this system.....


thanks...

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

If you remove all the water particles from the water column, you will be left with only non-water particles. In general this is not desirable. :mixed:

Sorry I had to say that...

This is not a filtration system, it's an overflow system. Get particles out however you see fit :spin3:

 

[crossleymarko]

ok floyd, so particals are good, this is a freshwater system. also floyed how did you get your overflow cut as in the pics above.. that looks cool. my freind is after something similar.

thanks

 

[bruce 1]

My new aquarium is being built. I had it drilled for 1.5 inch sch 80 bulk heads. Now for the plumbing, do I need 1.5 inch ball valves? would all the plumbing be 1.5 inch also? Thank you Bruce

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

ok floyd, so particals are good, this is a freshwater system. also floyed how did you get your overflow cut as in the pics above.. that looks cool. my freind is after something similar.

thanks

Tank was custom built that way.

My new aquarium is being built. I had it drilled for 1.5 inch sch 80 bulk heads. Now for the plumbing, do I need 1.5 inch ball valves? would all the plumbing be 1.5 inch also? Thank you Bruce

My advice to you is to buy the bulkhead you are going to use and send it to the tank manufacturer. Don't take their word for it that they'll drill it right. I did not do this and they (Miracles!!) cut the holes 63mm instead of 65 and I had to switch to the ABS bulkheads or grind out the holes. I was pretty hot about it since I sent them a CAD drawings and it was on that and the invoice from them.

 

[bad santa]

Floyd, I believe bean has said we can use Teflon paste as long as it's has PTFE.

 

[rndmcnflct]

I was wondering if anyone could offer me advice on my problem:

I want to make an external overflow box that is connected to the bean animal plumbing methodology. Some of you guys have done this by drilling holes in the back panel of the tank, letting the water pass through the holes to the external overflow, and then down the drain. An easy solution, yes, but there is no surface skimming in this case.

What I would like to do is remove an eighth of an inch of glass from the back panel of my aquarium (rimless), have water overflow that coast to coast style into the external box, and then down the drain. If one were to google "glass reef overflow" the first link that might appear would describe the situation exactly.

So the question is, how can I remove a thin strip of glass from the back panel of my aquarium? Having cut glass before I'm fairly certain that trying to score and snap such a thin piece would end in disaster. Can I grind it down with a hand held sander and copious amounts of water? What kind of paper would I need? How might I keep the overflow level?

Thanks for any advice!

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Floyd, I believe bean has said we can use Teflon paste as long as it's has PTFE.

Cool, that's what I used on all the threaded fittings, PTFE paste. Thanks!!

Got all the plumbing done. Filling it today!

 

[reefermad619]

I was wondering if anyone could offer me advice on my problem:

I want to make an external overflow box that is connected to the bean animal plumbing methodology. Some of you guys have done this by drilling holes in the back panel of the tank, letting the water pass through the holes to the external overflow, and then down the drain. An easy solution, yes, but there is no surface skimming in this case.

What I would like to do is remove an eighth of an inch of glass from the back panel of my aquarium (rimless), have water overflow that coast to coast style into the external box, and then down the drain. If one were to google "glass reef overflow" the first link that might appear would describe the situation exactly.

So the question is, how can I remove a thin strip of glass from the back panel of my aquarium? Having cut glass before I'm fairly certain that trying to score and snap such a thin piece would end in disaster. Can I grind it down with a hand held sander and copious amounts of water? What kind of paper would I need? How might I keep the overflow level?

Thanks for any advice!

The first version you describe, usually has a very thin internal weir in the tank. Water flows over the weir, thru the holes drilled into the back of the tank, and down the drains of the external overflow box.

To cut the tank down, which would be pretty damn cool, I've seen done with a diamond bit and a dremel. There's a thread floating around here about how a member did just that. Can't remember the name of the thread tho. I think the guy used a diamond bit and a rotozip for the cutting.

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

I'm having an OH-CR#P moment. I just grabbed the jar of paste and it says "Harvey's TFE Paste. Is this the wrong stuff and if so do I have to re-do all my threaded fittings throughout the system?!?!

EDIT:

Never mind. It's the right stuff, they just didn't put "With teflon" on the one I bought. Called Harvey's and it's all good WHEW

 

[BeanAnimal]

I was wondering if anyone could offer me advice on my problem:

I want to make an external overflow box that is connected to the bean animal plumbing methodology. Some of you guys have done this by drilling holes in the back panel of the tank, letting the water pass through the holes to the external overflow, and then down the drain. An easy solution, yes, but there is no surface skimming in this case.

Those who implement the design un this manner use a slim internal weir

It would be somewhat pointless to build an external box with no internal weir.

What I would like to do is remove an eighth of an inch of glass from the back panel of my aquarium (rimless), have water overflow that coast to coast style into the external box, and then down the drain. If one were to google "glass reef overflow" the first link that might appear would describe the situation exactly.

A router or circular saw bit/blade, a guide and a steady hand... The router is likely not a good idead handheld so that leaves the circular saw.

You need more than 1/8" of an inch. It will need to be 1/2" at the least to allow for a bit of headroom, 3/4" or 1" would be better.

 

[bruce 1]

My advice to you is to buy the bulkhead you are going to use and send it to the tank manufacturer. Don't take their word for it that they'll drill it right. I did not do this and they (Miracles!!) cut the holes 63mm instead of 65 and I had to switch to the ABS bulkheads or grind out the holes. I was pretty hot about it since I sent them a CAD drawings and it was on that and the invoice from them.

They have my bulk heads. But do I need to use all 1.5 inch plumbing? I am in the process of finding it all.

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Plumbing size depends on the flow rate you wish to achieve. Bean has a hydraulics calculator on his site, have you checked that out?

http://beananimal.com/articles/hydraulics-for-the-aquarist.aspx

I think if has been recommended that you go up one size on the open channel (maybe emergency too) because the larger the open channel pipe is, the less chance that it will gurgle and flush.

 

[Hype134]

So, I've experimented with Durso, Herbie, and Stockman options and ended up with the following setup... is there any reasons or concerns, this option will not work. As mentioned before, I'm assuming the probability of both drains getting clogged is very slim hence I no emergency drain. In the event one does get clogged the water level of the pump is set so that i'll hear the gurgle and will know that there is a clog. Its essentially the herbie method with the emergency being the second drain... the reason i want two drains so that surface skimming is even.

I'm currently using an eheim 1262 for return... please let me know if this is a good or bad idea... thanks

 

[BeanAnimal]

You have no way of ensuring the same flow to each overflow box, so keeping siphon in each box tuned is going to be a hassle. This has been discussed several times in this thread (even recently). There are ways to leverage this standpipe design into a dual overflow aquarium. You may want to browse through the thread.