Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
jason2459
Well-known member
Is it ABS or Sch-80? I just drilled 60mm holes for 1.5" ABS bulkheads I bought from bulkreefsupply. Sch-80 would be bigger. Also, from what I've read different brands may be slightly different. I would measure.
TheFishMan65
New member
+1, when in doubt measure
darb85
New member
any one?
TheFishMan65
New member
From everything I have read brand doesn't really matter and the Schedule 80 is not required for the pressure we usually see. A good fish store should have them or search on line.
DWV vs sched 40 fittings
DWV vs sched 40 fittings
I'm planning a beananimal drain setup, and just starting to acquire parts. Is there any concern about using DWV parts as apposed to schedule 40? I ask because the only PVC Sanitary-T fiddings I can find are DWV, whereas everything else in the system is Schedule 40. My understanding is that DWV fittings aren't as strong as sched 40.
The alternative I'm considering is a Schedule 40 wye, and I've located a 1 inch to 1 1/2 inch wye fitting.
http://www.pexsupply.com/Spears-475-211-1-1-2-x-1-1-2-x-1-PVC-Sch-40-Wye
I'm considering combining these with a 45 degree elbow to link to the bulkheads, rather than using the sanitary-T. Is this a bad idea?
I'm also considering not thinking too much and sticking with precisely replicating an obviously successful setup, as per beananimal's drawings.
Advice most appreciated!
DWV vs sched 40 fittings
I'm planning a beananimal drain setup, and just starting to acquire parts. Is there any concern about using DWV parts as apposed to schedule 40? I ask because the only PVC Sanitary-T fiddings I can find are DWV, whereas everything else in the system is Schedule 40. My understanding is that DWV fittings aren't as strong as sched 40.
The alternative I'm considering is a Schedule 40 wye, and I've located a 1 inch to 1 1/2 inch wye fitting.
http://www.pexsupply.com/Spears-475-211-1-1-2-x-1-1-2-x-1-PVC-Sch-40-Wye
I'm considering combining these with a 45 degree elbow to link to the bulkheads, rather than using the sanitary-T. Is this a bad idea?
I'm also considering not thinking too much and sticking with precisely replicating an obviously successful setup, as per beananimal's drawings.
Advice most appreciated!
zeroinverse
New member
Grainger carries PVC sanitary Tees. Not sure if you have one near you.
zeroinverse
New member
Is there anyway to emulate Beananimal's silent overflow with only TWO pipes?
Is there a way to combine piping so you get two?
==============
Is the main reason for the 3rd "emergency" tube to address the following two scenarios?
SCENARIO #1 = "siphon" pipe #1 gets clogged
"Trickle" pipe #2 has to handle more water drainage. If "trickle" pipe #2 goes into full siphon, you can't tell the difference between normal operation & a "clogged" #1 pipe?
(this of course assumes you didn't notice the noise as "trickle" pipe #2 started to gulp more air as water flow increases down #2)
SCENARIO #2 = "trickle" pipe #2 gets clogged
Since "siphon" pipe #1 is already in full siphon (i.e. maximum drainage flow), the "emergency" pipe #3 is needed to drain the excess.
Is there a way to combine piping so you get two?
==============
Is the main reason for the 3rd "emergency" tube to address the following two scenarios?
SCENARIO #1 = "siphon" pipe #1 gets clogged
"Trickle" pipe #2 has to handle more water drainage. If "trickle" pipe #2 goes into full siphon, you can't tell the difference between normal operation & a "clogged" #1 pipe?
(this of course assumes you didn't notice the noise as "trickle" pipe #2 started to gulp more air as water flow increases down #2)
SCENARIO #2 = "trickle" pipe #2 gets clogged
Since "siphon" pipe #1 is already in full siphon (i.e. maximum drainage flow), the "emergency" pipe #3 is needed to drain the excess.
kcress
New member
zeroinverse; Yes. Sort of. Use a much larger diameter 'trickle pipe'. Being larger it will be able to handle all the water by itself if the closed flow pipe clogs. Being larger runs the chance of it ever clogging - down to a vanishing probability. Because the siphon one is restricted it's far more likely to be the clogged one and definitely requires back-up.
Or use the same sizes as normal and use a water level sensor to kill the pump if the water level reaches disastrous levels. I always run a level sensor - As the say; Don't leave home without it!
Or use the same sizes as normal and use a water level sensor to kill the pump if the water level reaches disastrous levels. I always run a level sensor - As the say; Don't leave home without it!
zeroinverse
New member
Kcress: I like that idea of a level sensor kill switch in case of display tank overflow. The tank I acquired has two sidedrilled 1.5" bulkheads, so it's already "large", but I will put a "funnel" on the trickle to give it larger diameter to make sure it's less likely to clog.
So those two ideas should work great. Thanks!
Starfishhater
New member
Would it be possible to extend the horizontal PVC between the bulkhead and the sanitary tee to 2ft? Need to go through the wall at the bulkhead level and then down to the sump in the next room. Would the siphon function correctly?
I have been looking on ebay for 1.5 inch bulkheads. There are 3 types types on there. Polypropylene, sch 80 and abs. The poly ones look look like they are heavy duty. Which one is the best to use? BRS says the sch 80 are the best to use??? They said the abs ones, the rubber gasket sometimes will fail. The poly ones look to have thick gaskets. What would you get?
zeroinverse
New member
The extra 2ft would seem like starting up may take a bit longer and trap more air bubbles until it gets purged. But once siphon is started and air purged, should work fine. The trickle drain shouldn't have any problems as long as there is laminar flow in that 2ft. No reason it shouldn't.
Here are the poly ones. Has anyone used them?
http://www.atlantarainbarrels.com/bulkheadfittings.htm
Evil Nemo
New member
I need to come through a wall just as Starfishater but only 12 inches and am concerned about the ability to purge air over such a distance.
I have thought about coming out of the bottom of the sanitary T with a 45 degree fitting, then through the wall at 45 degrees. Continuing through the wall at the 45 degrees to another 45 fitting going downward on the other side of the wall. All of this to avoid a purging problem...?
I also need to make a horizontal run and I have heard that any horizontal run should be at a minimum 45 degrees? Anyone care to comment?
I have read quite a bit on here, and was wondering if anyone had success on a RR Aqueon/AGA tank. I have 2 overflows, and what I wanted to do was make the designated return lines the emergency drains, and one drain the siphon, and open channel. I didn't want to put both emergency drains in one overflow since the water wouldn't move around as much. Would something like this work?
need some guidance please
need some guidance please
Hello All,
I am new to reefing; having my first ever reef tank built; the builder is ready to 'cut glass'. This will be ~ 200 gallons, 72"Lx 30"Wx 20"H, external bean animal overflow. I plan on having the overflow box of 24"L x 5"W x 20"H centered on the back wall (which is 72"). So the bottom of the overflow box is even with the bottom of the tank. There is a 6" shelf of 3/4" plywood behind the tank. So the bottom of the overflow box will rest on this plywood; the plumbing will, of course, run thru the bottom glass of the overflow, thru the plywood, and will then be visible from below.
My questions...
1) what size pipes do you recommend for +/-800 gal per hour flow
2) what size holes do I tell the builder to cut into the bottom of the overflow box?
3) is 5"W wide enough for the bottom of the overflow?
4) what size/type bulheads do you recommend?
I understand the concept here and I find it fascinating but I just don't know enough to speak to the details of these questions. Thank you in advance
Donald
need some guidance please
Hello All,
I am new to reefing; having my first ever reef tank built; the builder is ready to 'cut glass'. This will be ~ 200 gallons, 72"Lx 30"Wx 20"H, external bean animal overflow. I plan on having the overflow box of 24"L x 5"W x 20"H centered on the back wall (which is 72"). So the bottom of the overflow box is even with the bottom of the tank. There is a 6" shelf of 3/4" plywood behind the tank. So the bottom of the overflow box will rest on this plywood; the plumbing will, of course, run thru the bottom glass of the overflow, thru the plywood, and will then be visible from below.
My questions...
1) what size pipes do you recommend for +/-800 gal per hour flow
2) what size holes do I tell the builder to cut into the bottom of the overflow box?
3) is 5"W wide enough for the bottom of the overflow?
4) what size/type bulheads do you recommend?
I understand the concept here and I find it fascinating but I just don't know enough to speak to the details of these questions. Thank you in advance
Donald
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