TheFishMan65
New member
Wait then you must not split the siphon return between the 2. Otherwise the water would return to the weir and the fuge would be stagnant. Do you have a picutre?
Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
Check this out:
In this picture my in-tank weir has been installed. You can see the wye for the siphon pipe from that weir.
The refugium is on the lower left. You can't see the dump from the wye, but you can see the weir (in the front of the fuge) and how the piping carries water into the pump area of the sump from it.
In the below picture, I have added an elbow to the weir bulkhead, allowing me to set up a siphon.
There's also now a valve so that I can tune the siphon so that it doesn't run out (the pipe is way bigger than needed...)
In this picture my in-tank weir has been installed. You can see the wye for the siphon pipe from that weir.
The refugium is on the lower left. You can't see the dump from the wye, but you can see the weir (in the front of the fuge) and how the piping carries water into the pump area of the sump from it.
In the below picture, I have added an elbow to the weir bulkhead, allowing me to set up a siphon.
There's also now a valve so that I can tune the siphon so that it doesn't run out (the pipe is way bigger than needed...)
TheFishMan65
New member
I am guessing the other siphon is behind the emergency. What do you think keeps water from going from the fuge siphon to the skimmer (assume that what goes there) siphon. that is what has happened to some. Now imagine the fuge siphon 3 inches deeper (ok shouldn't be by specs but) then the water could back siphon (maybe) and not water goes through the fuge and/or in a power failure it siphons and over fills the return section.
I point these issue out (glad you don't have them) as possibilities for people wanting to copy what you did.
I point these issue out (glad you don't have them) as possibilities for people wanting to copy what you did.
Yes the siphon wye for the skimmer section is behind the emergency drain. The wye is high enough (a foot) above the water level in the fuge, and when the tank is shut off there's an air break terminating the siphon, so there's no way it could happen the way I have things plumbed. I'd definitely be interested in seeing someone else's plumbing to try and understand how it did happen though...
TheFishMan65
New member
I forgot how he solved it, but have been trying to figure out the principle ever since. Thought maybe you could shed some insight so you plumbed it that way. IIRC His problem was that it would start off ok, but slowly over time the water would move from the fuge to the return until they had even water levels. So I think maybe a higher flow might have helped.
TheFishMan65
New member
Yep, which is why I was questioning your setup - thanks for all the descriptions.
uncleof6
Active member
There is absolutely no reason to run "raw water" into the fuge. Even assuming that the skimmer did remove 100% of the organics from 100% of the water entering the skimmer section, nothing has been removed that has any value to the fuge. I must admit, that such a skimmer would be a dream come true, however at best, it is going to remove ~30% of the total dissolved organics, and it is not going to do it in a single pass.
The 'fuge,' as most use it, is going to utilize nitrate, some phosphates, CO2, and light. The skimmer does not remove nitrate and phosphate from the water. All it removes are the dissolved organic molecules, that will ultimately be converted to nitrate, by the activity of bacteria.
Bean's drain system is a very simple system. It is an 'out of the box solution' for those that are tired of fighting with their drain lines. When we try to add complexity to the design, that is where problems can occur. Two of the possible issues with splitting the siphon line that I can see, are possible starting issues, and possible adjustment issues. More air to purge, differing water levels in different areas of the sump, or adjusting a valve to raise the water level in the overflow, but flow increases in the second branch frustrating your efforts to balance the system.
Modifications add variables to the system, the results are unpredictable. Keeping it simple, as designed, makes it far easier to troubleshoot, (from across the country) should a problem arise, as only a finite number of things could be wrong.
Coderabit2
New member
Has anyone done a Bean drain for a 120AGA? It has two 3/4" drains and two 1", so I'm not sure how to set it up? I going to have a low flow return that will only need a 3/4" return line. Has anyone done this or have suggestions? I haven't read this entire thread so sorry if this has been asked.
jamesamantha
New member
For the low flow people out there the Bean works great. I am pushing 400 GPH and went with an external overflow and a small internal skimming box. My internal skimming box is 12X6X1.25 and the external is 12X5X6 tall. I drilled two 1-3/4" holes in the back of the tank. My siphon is 3/4" bulkhead/pipe all the way from top to bottom with the valve about 1/4 of the way closed. The open channel and emergency are 1" all the way to the sump.
I turned the pump on and adjusted the valve and in about 2 seconds it was balanced. On startups it flushes once and then balances.
I am not sure about your 120 question. I can tell you that a single 3/4" siphon will take over 400 GPH.
It is quiet and it is awesome! Thanks to all the contributors.
James
I turned the pump on and adjusted the valve and in about 2 seconds it was balanced. On startups it flushes once and then balances.
I am not sure about your 120 question. I can tell you that a single 3/4" siphon will take over 400 GPH.
It is quiet and it is awesome! Thanks to all the contributors.
James
Wow this whole thread has been a learning experience. Awesome job Beananimal as well as all those who have done their own.
I just got a 55gal Tank and was thinking of following beananimal's setup.
My only concerns are and sorry in advance if someone else has posted this already.
do i need to decrease the size of the drains being that it is a smaller tank or would the 1 inch piping be fine all the way through instead of converting it to 1.5 inch as you did.
I would like to add two return lines from one pump. What possible GPH should i be looking at for this setup, maybe 700-850gph?
For the internal overflow box is it better with the notches cut into it or a flat top edge and the box is just lowered to allow the overflow to happen?
Thanks once again
I just got a 55gal Tank and was thinking of following beananimal's setup.
My only concerns are and sorry in advance if someone else has posted this already.
do i need to decrease the size of the drains being that it is a smaller tank or would the 1 inch piping be fine all the way through instead of converting it to 1.5 inch as you did.
I would like to add two return lines from one pump. What possible GPH should i be looking at for this setup, maybe 700-850gph?
For the internal overflow box is it better with the notches cut into it or a flat top edge and the box is just lowered to allow the overflow to happen?
Thanks once again
Coderabit2
New member
Do you think I could do this?
1) Emergency standpipe - 1" bulkhead
2) Siphon standpipe - 1" bulkhead
3) Open channel standpipe - 3/4" bulkhead
4) Return - 3/4" bulkhead
Would you still open them up once they go past the bulkhead?
1) Emergency standpipe - 1" bulkhead
2) Siphon standpipe - 1" bulkhead
3) Open channel standpipe - 3/4" bulkhead
4) Return - 3/4" bulkhead
Would you still open them up once they go past the bulkhead?
uncleof6
Active member
1" pipe will more than handle your flow rate. I don't recommend smaller pipe, for clogging reasons. 1.5" wold be way too large for this system. Flow rate 550 + at the tank after static head and friction losses.
uncleof6
Active member
1) Emergency standpipe - 1" bulkhead w/1" pipe
2) Siphon standpipe - 3/4" bulkhead w/1" pipe
3) Open channel standpipe - 1" bulkhead w/1.25" pipe minimum.
4) Return - depends on the pump you are using.
Coderabit2
New member
Since it is an AGA with the tall black overflows, you will have the height of the tank - 2' - until you hit the bulkhead. Where I have a different pipe size, such as the siphon, do I run 1" pipe above and below the bulkhead and reduce to the 3/4" through the bulkhead? Or do I run 3/4" to the bulkhead and then 1" after that?
My return will be about 500gph. What is the max a 3/4" return can do?
uncleof6
Active member
1" pipe above and below the 3/4" bulkhead. IMPORTANT: The siphon and the open channel must be in the same overflow. The emergency in the other overflow, along with the return if you wish to use the bulkhead. I would use 1" pipe for the return above and below the bulkhead also.)
There will be no flow in the overflow with the emergency and return. Fill it with oolitic sand--mini DSB.
There will be no flow in the overflow with the emergency and return. Fill it with oolitic sand--mini DSB.
Thank you, gonna start getting the supplies and hopefully taking some pics soon.
Any ideas what would be good for making the overflow box?
The tank is acrylic so I'm thinking acrylic would be the ideal way to go but not sure if there are any better recommendations.
jake koppen
New member
What is the flow rate if 1” pipe/ 3/4” bulk head / back to 1” pipe running at full siphon? For the main drain? I'm trying to decide what size return pump to buy. If I get a return too large can I tune it down with a gate valve as well?
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