Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
- Thread starter JohnL
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autodave
New member
These are the smallest I have found:http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/ProductDetails.aspx?SKU=4007704
Thanks guys. Well after buying the 1inch piping i noticed that it wont properly fit in the fixed area where my tank is located. 1inch piping can get bulky. I can get it to work with 3/4 inch piping. If i go that route, will this setup not work? I may need to start looking for a different solution.
What is the approximate "minimum" drop needed between the overflow and the sump? My set up will have a large sump in an adjacent room. I would like to minimize the drop of the water to be able to elevate my sump a bit to minimize head on the return, and make the sump easier to service without bending over. (i.e. the bottom of the overflow would be approximately 50" off the ground, and the lip of the sump would be approximately 40" off the ground. (that would provide about 18" of drop once the elbow dropped inside the sump.)
Will that create any problems starting the syphon or other issues? (I will be following all other aspects of the build as described by Bean's original plans)
Will that create any problems starting the syphon or other issues? (I will be following all other aspects of the build as described by Bean's original plans)
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
The system works as designed, downsizing the components can create create problems in many areas depending on the desried flow rate. 1" plumbing is not very "bulky" when the differences in flow capacities between 3/4" and 1" are considered.
Most "setups" are not going to be "quiet" and reliable with 3/4" plumbing (again depending on flow).
A secondary (primary?) concern is the fact that many (most?) glass 55 gallon aquariums are tempered and therefore can not be drilled anyway.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Thank you,
The Siphon Calculator was helpful, I guess the "other" issues created by the horizontal run that you mention are what I was trying to uncover. I am glad you mention them.
I have two "Bean Systems" working under the original design and they work great, I am not questioning the design at all...that is why I am trying to use it again, but in this application I need to modify it slightly because the water will need to travel approximately 6 feet horizontally (or slight downward pitch). I am hoping someone with a better understanding of hydrodynamics can prevent some error on my part. What would be the best configuration to tackle the horizontal run? drop first, then flatten out for the 6' run, angle it across the entire drop, or is it a complete deal breaker and I have to use a different drainage system? (I don't need a ton of flow, it is a 225Gal tank fed by an Eheim 1262, so approx. 900 gph (less 34" of head and unfortunately 5 90 degree elbows (which may be about 700gph))
The Siphon Calculator was helpful, I guess the "other" issues created by the horizontal run that you mention are what I was trying to uncover. I am glad you mention them.
I have two "Bean Systems" working under the original design and they work great, I am not questioning the design at all...that is why I am trying to use it again, but in this application I need to modify it slightly because the water will need to travel approximately 6 feet horizontally (or slight downward pitch). I am hoping someone with a better understanding of hydrodynamics can prevent some error on my part. What would be the best configuration to tackle the horizontal run? drop first, then flatten out for the 6' run, angle it across the entire drop, or is it a complete deal breaker and I have to use a different drainage system? (I don't need a ton of flow, it is a 225Gal tank fed by an Eheim 1262, so approx. 900 gph (less 34" of head and unfortunately 5 90 degree elbows (which may be about 700gph))
Thank you Beananimal. My tank is acrylic so the drilling would not be the problem.
Its not that 1inch is too bulky in general, its just the spot where the tank is going is enclosed and I'm limited in space. I will see what i can do to accommodate the piping but I am fearing I might have to try a different setup. I really do like your design and appreciate your advice and input.
Thank You once again.
uncleof6
Active member
If you have to use less than 1" plumbing, any other system, is going to an even bigger headache. There is not really a drain system that will work well with 3/4" plumbing. The alternative, is something from the Durso family, and minimum pipe size for these is 1.25", on a 1" bulkhead. Also, your open channel should be 1.25" with this system. They work better than 1".
Another consideration, is working on the system. Once it is filled you can't move it. If you are having space concerns with 1" plumbing, behind the tank, how are you going to work on it regardless of the plumbing size? It is never a good idea to put a tank so close to the wall, you cannot get an arm behind it, and move around a bit.
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LoJack
New member
Bean I just noticed after buying my supplies to replicate your setup that you have a 1" bulkhead with 1.5" everything else.
I bought 1.5" bulkheads as well. Will this still work? The tank is not drilled yet ... so I can change it if necessary ... I'll just have to wait for the drill bit and 1" bulkheads to come in
I bought 1.5" bulkheads as well. Will this still work? The tank is not drilled yet ... so I can change it if necessary ... I'll just have to wait for the drill bit and 1" bulkheads to come in
LoJack
New member
Also, its a 150 Gallon tank (60x24x24) with a standard AGA 75 Gallon as a Sump. I have a brand new Reeflo Dart sitting here ... but think that close to 3000 gallons may be too much.
What GPH is recommended with this setup, as I would be content purchasing a new pump to optimize my setup and keep it as quiet as possible
What GPH is recommended with this setup, as I would be content purchasing a new pump to optimize my setup and keep it as quiet as possible
uncleof6
Active member
Bean used 1" bulkheads, because they where already installed. He stated this very early in the thread. Your 1.5" bulkheads, will be fine, and will flow a bit better, than the 1".
uncleof6
Active member
2000 gph, figure 200 gallons system volume (give or take) or as high as you wish to go from there. The 1.5" will do higher than 3500 gph without coughing. Dart is a good pump, would not trade it for anything else.
uncleof6
Active member
At 8' of head, total, the dart will do 2440 gph. However, with the four outlets, and associated fittings you are going to have a higher dynamic head (while running) the dart shuts "off" at 12'. At 10' total head, the dart will do 1850 gph. That is probably around where you will be. There will be no need to restrict the pump. You can probably run it wide open.
You would be better off, using a single return line/outlet as there will be less friction loss in the fittings.
The Barracuda, is a better pump for basement use if that is what you are doing.
You would be better off, using a single return line/outlet as there will be less friction loss in the fittings.
The Barracuda, is a better pump for basement use if that is what you are doing.
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LoJack
New member
Nope not in basement. It will be in the stand underneath it. But I'm using Rigid pipe and will have a fair amount of unions, elbows, and ball valves.
Its good to know I shouldn't have to restrict the dart.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Certainly... I used 1" because that was what was already there for the failed "durso" style setup.
Bean
reefermad619
New member
Folks... When runnin the bean, this thread is not a recommended read, it's MANDATORY! Reading the whole thread will answer all Qs you have. It will also help with wanting to deviate from the original plans. You can see how others have tried and failed/succeeded in their attempts.
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