Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

On an external does it matter how the holes spaced on the horizontal plane? I am think of three holes spaced out equally across the back with my external box almost running the entire length of the tank but since I hope to start cutting tomorrow I thought I would check in case first.


Thanks!
 
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uncleof6, thanks yet again! I'm 97% certain I'm going with an external now, with full C2C internal weir (Full Width x Height = top of glass minus 1" to a bit below the holes). Depth of internal weir 1.5" sound o.k.? For the external box, my three holes are about 22" apart edge to edge, so would a 24x6x6 box be sufficient?

1.5"- 2" should be plenty. Think I would measure plumbing before I start cutting glass for the external.

For the internal weir, 1/4" glass should be fine?

1/4" be fine.
 
On an external does it matter how the holes spaced on the horizontal plane? I am think of three holes spaced out equally across the back with my external box almost running the entire length of the tank but since I hope to start cutting tomorrow I thought I would check in case first.


Thanks!

More holes the better. Depends on the length of the tank. Look back in this thread till you find the drawing, that is a 48" glass panel.
 
What size drains do you guys recommend for a 60 gal tank (30 x 22 x 20). There will be a 12" weir flowing into an overflow that is 15" long 4" deep and 6" high. I was thinking 1" drains but wanted to be sure first.
 
Thanks Bean for answering my question on the open channel drain, it makes sennse after I read it again on your website.

I do have one more. I have completed the beananimal drain all the way down to my sump. The final step is for me to glue the last 3 pieces that actually will be in the water. Should I wait until the system is running to finish? Or since I know exactly where the water level will be , should I just have them stop just below the water line like it says on your site? Also I am guessing that just below the water line will be about 1"..correct?

Thanks again.

P1000746-M.jpg
 
For a 60 gallon tank would 1 inch plumbing work just fine? I did not think about getting a good 1 1/2 in ball valve when I ordered the ones I got.

Thanks
 
Alright, I'm new to all this. I have a thread here. I have need of some info on this drain system of Beananimal's. I attached a picture of my overflow box. Is it safe to say that the overflow will not drain more than my return pump, GPHwise, is putting back into the DT? My picture has all the overflow box and drain info. I'm using the drainpipe design exactly as listed on BeanAnimal's Bar and Grill - Silent and Fail-Safe Overflow System. I filled it with a hosepipe tonight and the overflow box, well, overflowed. I ran the hose into the overflow box, turned it on and watched the pipes start draining. The box still ran over though. Please help me out. I may be purchasing my return pump soon and I was thinking of buying something in the 750-1000 GPH range, but I don't wanna get anything that is gonna cause an overflow.
 

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/\ where is the open channel pipe and the emergency drain pipe?

good question storm.

Alright, I'm new to all this. I have a thread here. I have need of some info on this drain system of Beananimal's. I attached a picture of my overflow box. Is it safe to say that the overflow will not drain more than my return pump, GPHwise, is putting back into the DT?

Fluid dynamics says that it is physically impossible for more water to drain from the tank, than you are pumping into the tank.


My picture has all the overflow box and drain info. I'm using the drainpipe design exactly as listed on BeanAnimal's Bar and Grill - Silent and Fail-Safe Overflow System.

If you are using it exactly as designed, as stormrider asked: Where are the other two pipes?

I filled it with a hosepipe tonight and the overflow box, well, overflowed. I ran the hose into the overflow box, turned it on and watched the pipes start draining. The box still ran over though. Please help me out. I may be purchasing my return pump soon and I was thinking of buying something in the 750-1000 GPH range, but I don't wanna get anything that is gonna cause an overflow.

While it is impossible for more to drain out of the tank, than is going back to the tank, it is not impossible for LESS to drain out of the tank, than you are putting into the tank, until after the tank overlfows, if the system is: A) Not capable of handling the flow, B) The system is not designed correctly.

We need a bit more information than you have provided. Like particulars of the other pipes, and how the system is setup, as your picture shows a single drain line--with a rather heavily restricted inlet. :)
 
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Budster:

Without photos and details it is going to be next to impossible to help you. Respectfully, if you built the system exactly as designed then there is little chance that you could get it to fail; even if you tried :)


Post some photos with details of the key areas, description of the pipe sizes, how it failed, etc. They system has severl safety features that ALL must fail to create a flood situation. That is you must have TOTAL failure of (3) standpipes for the systme to flood. Something (or more likely several things) have been overlooked.
 
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Bean Animal:

With all due respect, you should have looked ahead a little and you would have seen that I was quoting, however improperly, the post from someone a few posts above mine. I have been studying this thread for months and I think I do have a pretty good understanding of "your" system, just waiting to get my tank form Miracles to start my project. OK? Check Post # 4568

I appologize for not knowing how to enter a partial quote in my reply, a computer Geek I'm not, just a regular Geek!
 
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BeanAnimal,

Could I get your opinion on this setup?

I have a 180 with dual overflows. I know this question has been asked many times before but I have not seen any pictures of anyone trying to connect the overflow boxes. I was wondering if this design would work to allow both overflows to work together. It would be great to seperate the open channel and full siphon in two different boxes in order to avoid stagnant water.

Basically I would like to make a weir that spans across the two boxes and use the 1" cutouts (for return hoses) as the inlets to the overflows. This would likely require plugging the existing teeth.

overflowweir1a.jpg~original

overflowweir2a.jpg~original

overflowweira.jpg~original


Is this a viable option or just way off?

Thanks
Phillip
 
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Bean Animal:

With all due respect, you should have looked ahead a little and you would have seen that I was quoting, however improperly, the post from someone a few posts above mine.

I have rather limted time this month and have not had a chance to go back and catch up with all of the questions from the last week or two.

I only saw your post and was trying to help, as the situation and context looked dire :)
 
Phillip

It may work but the two boxes are still isolated from each other with regard to interaction.

The "notch" used to connect the new weir should be as big as the weir and the standpipes set so that they intake from that general level. This will allow the standpipes in the two boxes to interact.
 
I have rather limted time this month and have not had a chance to go back and catch up with all of the questions from the last week or two.

I only saw your post and was trying to help, as the situation and context looked dire :)

OK!..................................................Buster:thumbsup:
 
quick question...i have read through a lot of this thread and the original but didn't see an answer.

i see your original was done for a 75g. i am planning a 180-210g (72") do i need to alter the dimensions of the bulkheads and the pipe used? can i put the valves under the cabinet before the sump? do you recommend any place in particular for parts?

thanks!!
 
Thought I would update a problem I was having from post 4391. I was having problems with the system leveling out. It litterally took 30 min. The only change I made to the system was I changed the 1 1/2 inch syphon channel to a 1 inch pipe under the union and installed a one inch ball in the sump area. this made it easier to adjust. Everything else is the standard 1 1/2 pipe still. The system levels out amazingly fast now (2-3 minutes) Oh and the emergancy I have dumping straight into the return section.
So for the smaller tanks with smaller flows (mine is a 40 breeder with around 400 gph) I would definately recommend a smaller full syphon. I love this system. Thanks for the help and the detailed instructions. :)
 
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