Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

quick question...i have read through a lot of this thread and the original but didn't see an answer.

i see your original was done for a 75g. i am planning a 180-210g (72") do i need to alter the dimensions of the bulkheads and the pipe used? can i put the valves under the cabinet before the sump? do you recommend any place in particular for parts?

thanks!!

For tanks in this size range, I would want to use 1.5" bulkheads. Bean used the 1" bulkheads, because they were already installed. This would place the holes in the tank lower on the back panel, changing the dimensions of the overflow box a bit as well.

Placement of the valve under normal circumstances, should be "easily accessible" however, with longer drops, it is preferable to have the valve placed near the sump. With any system, however, placing the valve near the sump, will not hurt performance.
 
For tanks in this size range, I would want to use 1.5" bulkheads. Bean used the 1" bulkheads, because they were already installed. This would place the holes in the tank lower on the back panel, changing the dimensions of the overflow box a bit as well.

Placement of the valve under normal circumstances, should be "easily accessible" however, with longer drops, it is preferable to have the valve placed near the sump. With any system, however, placing the valve near the sump, will not hurt performance.

I had the same question regarding bulkheads. In the process of ordering a new 225 gallon and will be using Beananimal's overflow. Would 1.5" holes be the recommended size for this tank? Would the size/type of sump alter the dimensions of the bulkheads? Also, Ive been reading that a high flow sump is preferred. I plan on using a 48"X24"X20" high flow sump. Any thoughts on sump dimensions and how they relate to the functionality of this overflow? Excuse my ignorance, I am not worthy of any discussions related to physics.
 
I had the same question regarding bulkheads. In the process of ordering a new 225 gallon and will be using Beananimal's overflow. Would 1.5" holes be the recommended size for this tank? Would the size/type of sump alter the dimensions of the bulkheads? Also, Ive been reading that a high flow sump is preferred. I plan on using a 48"X24"X20" high flow sump. Any thoughts on sump dimensions and how they relate to the functionality of this overflow? Excuse my ignorance, I am not worthy of any discussions related to physics.

I would use 1.5" bulkheads for any tank/flow rate that 1" won't handle. 1.25" pipe being of utilitarian value (open channel in a 1" system) I would say that anything above 1200 or so gph will benefit by using 1.5" pipe.

As far as the sump goes, the dimensions really don't affect the drain system, other than the water level/drain outlet depth in the drain/skimmer section of the sump, and how you have to snake the plumbing into the sump. The straighter the shot into the sump, the less likely you will have issues with startup.

In terms of overall performance, width is important when upping the flow rate, with wider (front to back) being better (quieter)
 
I would use 1.5" bulkheads for any tank/flow rate that 1" won't handle. 1.25" pipe being of utilitarian value (open channel in a 1" system) I would say that anything above 1200 or so gph will benefit by using 1.5" pipe.

As far as the sump goes, the dimensions really don't affect the drain system, other than the water level/drain outlet depth in the drain/skimmer section of the sump, and how you have to snake the plumbing into the sump. The straighter the shot into the sump, the less likely you will have issues with startup.

In terms of overall performance, width is important when upping the flow rate, with wider (front to back) being better (quieter)



Thanks Uncleof6. A couple questions regarding the sump: My sump will be more centered directly underneath the tank in the stand, which means it wont be a straight shot from the drains, most likely more of a 45 degree.. Will this affect startup as you mentioned? For a tank with the dimensions of 72LX30WX24H where would one have the holes drilled? Lastly, apparently Lee Mar wont install the Calfo overflow, theyll just drill the holes. Is there a formula to determine the dimensions of the coast to coast width, so as to ensure not going to narrow?
 
Thanks Uncleof6. A couple questions regarding the sump: My sump will be more centered directly underneath the tank in the stand, which means it wont be a straight shot from the drains, most likely more of a 45 degree.. Will this affect startup as you mentioned? For a tank with the dimensions of 72LX30WX24H where would one have the holes drilled? Lastly, apparently Lee Mar wont install the Calfo overflow, theyll just drill the holes. Is there a formula to determine the dimensions of the coast to coast width, so as to ensure not going to narrow?

45's are a part of the original design and are not an issue. Generally headed down is preferred, rather than 90's and horizontal runs, though that may or may not cause an issue.

Put the holes anywhere on the back of the tank (well you know what i mean) that is convenient to reach, where the pipes are along the back of the tank, does not matter.

Width--front to back? or end to end?
 
have you read these many pages yet? I would imagine that Uncleof6 and beananimal get asked the same question hundreds and hundreds of times due to failure to read everything first.

for the narrow part you need to be able to do maintenance inside. which means get your hand and fittings inside. as for the pipes being run...mine starts and levels out in about 20 sec. I was told to keep the open channel the straights but the siphon seams to have the most water flow through it.

this is posted back on #4459 and many other places. this is what i used for placement.

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PIPELAYOUT.jpg~original


0321022001a.jpg~original







Thanks Uncleof6. A couple questions regarding the sump: My sump will be more centered directly underneath the tank in the stand, which means it wont be a straight shot from the drains, most likely more of a 45 degree.. Will this affect startup as you mentioned? For a tank with the dimensions of 72LX30WX24H where would one have the holes drilled? Lastly, apparently Lee Mar wont install the Calfo overflow, theyll just drill the holes. Is there a formula to determine the dimensions of the coast to coast width, so as to ensure not going to narrow?
 
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45's are a part of the original design and are not an issue. Generally headed down is preferred, rather than 90's and horizontal runs, though that may or may not cause an issue.

Put the holes anywhere on the back of the tank (well you know what i mean) that is convenient to reach, where the pipes are along the back of the tank, does not matter.

Width--front to back? or end to end?

Got it thanks Uof6!;) And I was referring to front to back.
 
Well I'm a complete newbie to the whole weir thing. I'd like to ask a couple of questions that I'm sure have already been asked and answered a hundred times. :deadhorse1: I've been going through this thread for about 4 hrs and I'm suffering from information overload. :hmm3: I think I've got it figered out, but I'll ask just to be sure. Setting up a 220G 72" with a CTC weir and a BA overflow. Going to be getting 3000g/hr return.
So, will 1.5" syphon, open channel and emergency drain handle 3000g/hr?

Will a C2C weir at full length (72") at 5"x5" handle the flow and still fit the needed plumbing in?

I like my tank to be close to full, maybe .5" below the bottom of the tank trim. So how far below the bottom of the trim should the top of the weir be and the holes drilled?

Is it feasable to flow the open channel to a remote fuge (then gravity flowed into the sump for return to the DT while the syphon flows directly to the sump/skimmer ?

Thanks.
Al.
 
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Well I'm a complete newbie to the whole weir thing. I'd like to ask a couple of questions that I'm sure have already been asked and answered a hundred times. :deadhorse1: I've been going through this thread for about 4 hrs and I'm suffering from information overload. :hmm3: I think I've got it figered out, but I'll ask just to be sure. Setting up a 220G 72" with a CTC weir and a BA overflow. Going to be getting 3000g/hr return.
So, will 1.5" syphon, open channel and emergency drain handle 3000g/hr?

Will a C2C weir at full length (72") at 5"x5" handle the flow and still fit the needed plumbing in?

I like my tank to be close to full, maybe .5" below the bottom of the tank trim. So how far below the bottom of the trim should the top of the weir be and the holes drilled?

Is it feasable to flow the open channel to a remote fuge (then gravity flowed into the sump for return to the DT while the syphon flows directly to the sump/skimmer ?

Thanks.
Al.

I should'a said it will be an internal weir. I've managed to source a couple of scrap pieces of black acrylic at 11" x 49" that I'll rip on the table saw. I'm just hoping that chalking and water pressure will hold them in.
 
My tank is finally built and after searching through the list I am still in info overload. Tank is 60 gallons sitting on 30 inch stand with a 30 gallon sump. Can I use 1 inch drains or do i have to go to 1.25? 1.5 is too big in my area and I am not looking at running 3000 GPH through the sump. max would be 800 as that is all the pump can do. I have 2 pumps one that maxes at 600 the other about 800 and that is at 3 foot head.

Thanks
 
My tank is finally built and after searching through the list I am still in info overload. Tank is 60 gallons sitting on 30 inch stand with a 30 gallon sump. Can I use 1 inch drains or do i have to go to 1.25? 1.5 is too big in my area and I am not looking at running 3000 GPH through the sump. max would be 800 as that is all the pump can do. I have 2 pumps one that maxes at 600 the other about 800 and that is at 3 foot head.

Thanks

1" siphon, 1.25" open channel, 1" dry emergency.

I would use the 800 gph pump, as by the time you plumb this together your total head loss will be anywhere from 4 - 6 foot.
 
Curious if 1.5" fittings will be too large if I am planning on lower flow, say 800-1000 gph? Will this system still function with lower flow and larger plumbing? If so, I suppose I will go with 1" fittings, but I want as much ability to upgrade as needed in the future.

Thanks!
 
Curious if 1.5" fittings will be too large if I am planning on lower flow, say 800-1000 gph? Will this system still function with lower flow and larger plumbing? If so, I suppose I will go with 1" fittings, but I want as much ability to upgrade as needed in the future.

Thanks!

Yes it would work, if wanting to upgrade, the larger pipe is advisable. The valve may be closed a bit much, however, at the lower flow rate.
 
What is the impact of long (30'+) horizontal runs on silent overflow designs? Does one need to maintain any slope to the drains (1/4" per foot) or can the horizontal sections be setup without a slope? I don't think I can slope these as would burn up too much vertical distance.

Additionally, is where any method of silent drains where the drain pipes dip below the sump (under the concrete of a house) then back up? I can't figure out how to handle the fail safe side in this setup as the slow/intermittent flow would build up lots of junk.

Building a house with some drains in the walls/floor, concrete getting poured next week and not sure which way I'm going! ;)
 
Thanks Uncle. What about a internal weir? Will 5"x5"x72" (the full length of the tank) be big enough to flow 3000 gal and still fit the nessesary plumbing inside it?

Guess I should'a said it will be a c2c overflow, 5x5x72. Will these dementions be big enough to fit in the required plumbing and still flow enough water for 3000g?
Thanks.
Al.
 
Hello I have a 8 foot tank and would like to do a c2c internal thinking about using 1/2 black acrylic what silicone would you use

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