Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[budster.stig1]

Sorry, but what is a CtoC Calflo., and thanks for your time.

C to C is a coast to coast over-flow or better know as a side to side horizonal OF. Many call it a Calflo named after a member of Reef Central I believe, this configuration allows as many inches of OF as the width of your tank......
.............................................Budster:wave:

 

[TeslaReef]

BeanAnimal,

I have a 180 with dual overflows. I know this question has been asked many times before but I have not seen any pictures of anyone trying to connect the overflow boxes. I was wondering if this design would work to allow both overflows to work together. It would be great to seperate the open channel and full siphon in two different boxes in order to avoid stagnant water.

Basically I would like to make a weir that spans across the two boxes and use the 1" cutouts (for return hoses) as the inlets to the overflows. This would likely require plugging the existing teeth.

Is this a viable option or just way off?

Thanks
Phillip

 

[active]

interesting idea, personally i think it can be done. will take some work to fabricate it but i done see why it wouldent. curious to see what beananimal has to say.
watching this one for sure

 

[eagle9252]

i would say fill towers mostly with sand and it should work

 

[drparker]

Teslareef. I've got the same overflow setup on my 120g and this might work. I'm very interested in your progress.

The top of the weir would be need to be lower to get the correct water level in the tank. If you matched it to the current overflow teeth you might not need to plug them. After gluing the weir in place you might need to cut the existing overflows so there is no obstruction between the weir chamber and the overflows.

 

[perrl]

Teslareef- I have been contemplating the same thing. I was thinking of having the syphon and OC in one overflow and the emergency and return from sump in the other. I have been trying to find someway to "leak" a small amount of water from the bottom of the return to stir up the water and avoid stagnation. I was thinking of just a tiny drilled hole or possibly a small john guest-like valve. This would help the water flow up the overflow across the weir and into the syphon. I don't know if this is overkill or not.

 

[uncleof6]

The only requirement for the location of the standpipes for this system, is that they both are located in the same body of water. I.E. a single overflow. Where in that body of water, is irrelevant.

Bridging the overflows will work, provided that the two corner structures constitute the same body of water. E.G. no water height difference between the two, and they are connected by water at the same level, in the bridge.

Functionally, the water level for all the standpipes , must rise equally with the adjustment of the valve on the siphon. The bridge must be free flowing, no water fall into either corner overflow.

I would fully notch the corner overflows, where the bridge connects, rather than the U channel as it is drawn, for full flow, and block the teeth as you suggested, making the bridge the overflow. The water level at rest (system shutdown) equal in both corner boxes and and across the bridge. One body of water at rest or running.

 

[uncleof6]

Sorry, but what is a CtoC Calflo., and thanks for your time.

An overflow box, spanning the entire length of the back panel of an aquarium, usually no more than 5" - 7" in height. Made popular, by its proponent Anthony Calfo, and is the most efficient overflow configuration that exists. Anthony Calfo, also popularized the bucket DSB.

 

[rayn]

Hey guys, I have a question. I have been running this overflow on my reef for a little over a year now. I recently moved the tank and finally tonight got it running again. The overflow started up flawlessly and works, but I am getting a lot of water through the secondary drain line with the air tube. I originally had the two down turned 90's ony about a 1/4 inch off the overflow, but I cut them up to somewhere between 1/2 and 3/4 inch off the overflow now. Any ideas how to fix this?

 

[active]

i have my system now running full bore my 90's are 1/2 inch from the bottom. i have roughly 75% going thru the primary and the other going thru the secondary witch is also my algae scrubber. if it was better before you cut back the 90's try new ones to see if that brings it back to the way it was. i am assuming that is the only thing you changed.

 

[rayn]

I redid the two drains as the bulkheads were leaking, so new piping from the union up. But otherwise the only change was the 90s yes. I will get new ones and see. My thought was the secondary drain didnt normally have water going through it though.

 

[uncleof6]

Hey guys, I have a question. I have been running this overflow on my reef for a little over a year now. I recently moved the tank and finally tonight got it running again. The overflow started up flawlessly and works, but I am getting a lot of water through the secondary drain line with the air tube. I originally had the two down turned 90's ony about a 1/4 inch off the overflow, but I cut them up to somewhere between 1/2 and 3/4 inch off the overflow now. Any ideas how to fix this?

Sounds like just an adjustment problem. Start the adjustment procedure from from scratch, see if that cures it. The open channel, under normal running conditions will have some flow in it. After the siphon kicks in, adjust the water level up till water just flows in the open channel. Something like 90%/10%.

 

[InDashMP3]

Hello! Getting ready to order my glass cuts. 150G Near C2C Internal design. 72" wide tank, with a 48" centered internal overflow. Plan is to have siphon elbows 1/4" from the bottom of the overflow. How much "space" should I give the overflow from the front of the elbow? I'll be running a ReeFlo Snapper 2500 GPH pump split into two returns. My concern is the water cascading on top of the elbows in the box... How much of a gap should I have between the front of the elbows and the overflow face? Thanks!!

 

[InDashMP3]

duplicate...

 

[uncleof6]

I'd give it an inch and a half or so, maybe more. Of course, I would make the overflow as close to 72" as possible, rather than stopping at 48", thinner waterfall, better skimming, and pull it in a bit closer. You do need enough room to install the elbows, and get your hand in to work in the overflow if needed. So the overflow must be wide enough (front to back) to get an uninstalled elbow down in there.

 

[InDashMP3]

uncleof6, thanks! I will probably leave as much space to the sides of the overflow as there is depth... So, if I end up making a box 5" front to back, I'll leave 5 inches of back glass on each side. Make sense?

As far as the elbows are concerned, I of course fogot to take into consideration the future servicablility of those elbows.. (doh! :headwallblue. Are you not supposed to glue them in the bulkheads? I only ask because mine fit pretty loosely... 1.5" street elbows into 1.5" slipXslip bulkheads.

 

[uncleof6]

uncleof6, thanks! I will probably leave as much space to the sides of the overflow as there is depth... So, if I end up making a box 5" front to back, I'll leave 5 inches of back glass on each side. Make sense?

Well you could always go end to end with no space on the ends (no back glass outside the box,) but that depends on what you want to do with the returns.

As far as the elbows are concerned, I of course fogot to take into consideration the future servicablility of those elbows.. (doh! :headwallblue. Are you not supposed to glue them in the bulkheads? I only ask because mine fit pretty loosely... 1.5" street elbows into 1.5" slipXslip bulkheads.

I use FIPT bulkheads, so the elbows screw into the bulkhead, seal it using PTFE paste. Easy to get in and out. With slip, if you don't glue them in, there may (most likely will) be an air leak, around the elbows which on the siphon in particular, could cause some issues.

 

[InDashMP3]

thanks uncleof6. Now I'm on the fence trying to decide internal or external! I have room outside the tank, and to be honest, I think my three 2 3/8 holes (1.5 bulkheads) were drilled a little too loo on the back glass. If I go with an external, I can place the weir much closer to the back glass (precious real estate with an 18" front to back), and it wouldn't have to go any lower than the lowest edge of the three holes right? On a 150G, running a ReeFlo Snapper, how big should the external box be? Is 1/4" glass o.k?

 

[uncleof6]

thanks uncleof6. Now I'm on the fence trying to decide internal or external! I have room outside the tank, and to be honest, I think my three 2 3/8 holes (1.5 bulkheads) were drilled a little too loo on the back glass. If I go with an external, I can place the weir much closer to the back glass (precious real estate with an 18" front to back), and it wouldn't have to go any lower than the lowest edge of the three holes right? On a 150G, running a ReeFlo Snapper, how big should the external box be? Is 1/4" glass o.k?

True, but a little below the holes does not hurt. Waterline at the horizontal centerline of the holes, in both internal and external, Water level ~ the top of the down turned elbows in the external. Top of internal weir, 1" or so down from the top edge of the glass.

1/4" would probably work, but would use 3/8" (10 mm)

 

[InDashMP3]

uncleof6, thanks yet again! I'm 97% certain I'm going with an external now, with full C2C internal weir (Full Width x Height = top of glass minus 1" to a bit below the holes). Depth of internal weir 1.5" sound o.k.? For the external box, my three holes are about 22" apart edge to edge, so would a 24x6x6 box be sufficient?

For the internal weir, 1/4" glass should be fine?