Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14818322#post14818322 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jeffrey_ropp
Hi Bean (or anyone else with an answer)....

For some reason I can't get my system to start up automatically. In order for the system to reach equilibrium, I have to open the cap on the siphon channel for a couple seconds. If I don't the open channel keeps oscillating between a siphon and open channel.

Any thoughts?

Thanks as always,
Click to expand...

It sounds like you have a few minor problems. I would be willing to bet that:

1) your siphon standpipe is NOT air tight and therefore can not form a full and efficient siphon.

2) the open channel is handling too much of the flow and turning into a partial siphon

3) The siphon standpipe is submerged too deep into the sump, preventing it from purging the air properly.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14818050#post14818050 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jb61264
Sorry if this has question has come up in this thread already...I have a 75 gallon tank that I'm going to be installing this overflow system on...regarding the actual overflow box...if going coast to coast, could this just not be made of a piece of acrylic that is bent/folded to the right height/width dimension versus two pieces of glass? My tank is glass but really, would it make that much difference in the little amount that actually is being siliconed to the ends of the c-2-c design to be able to just use a piece of bent acrylic?...my background is going to be black and I think being able to use a black piece of acrylic would be great for this unless there are reason why this may not be a good idea....maybe its already being done and I've just missed it (tried to read as much of thread as I could)
Click to expand...

Silicone does not adhere well to acrylic. In a glass tank, glass baffles and/or overflows are prefered. You can use acrylic if you like... I would not. Remember if the overflow box leaks, the tank will drain to the level of the leak (likely overflowing your sump).

I used "graylite" glass for my overflow box.... it is covered with coraline, xenia, GSP, etc. Other folks have simply siliconed a 1/16" piece of black acrylic to the front of their overflow box.

Plenty of ways to skin the cat...
 
I got my Beananimal overflow plumbing setup and squared away. This setup is da BOMB!!! The overflow worked great, and self tuning and has enough flow to easily handle 3-4 times what I̢۪m putting through it and it is DEAD quiet. No durso gurgling, and the vented siphon tuned the full siphon in like 20 seconds so that was really cool too. I'm using 3/4 pipe, and 3/4 hoses in case anyone as wondering.

OverflowTest.jpg~original


OverflowWaterlevel.jpg~original


OverflowTeethFlow.jpg~original


OverflowTeeth.jpg~original


The only change that I̢۪m going to make is to reduce the height of the stand pipes inside the overflow box so that the water level in the overflow is about a half inch lower, and also probably switch out the vinyl tubeing I got from Marine Depot. It was way too thick and stiff to really be a benefit. Whats the point of having flexible tube plumbing if it is so stiff and thick walled that its more obnoxious then fixed hard lines.
I was running a pump that puts out 550gph at 0 head so I̢۪m guessing that at 4.5 feet I̢۪m flowing somewhere in the 400 gph range. The tank doesn̢۪t leak and has had water in her for 3 days now. Here is a video showing the overflow and test sump in action.

Video on Youtube showing BeanAnimal Style Silent Overflow

Overflow doesn̢۪t leak and the flow area on the overflow cutouts are flowing at about 1/3 capacity, so I̢۪m good there. Now that the tank is setup I̢۪m going to start working on stand fab and sump building. Yea!

I have a build thread here if anyone is interested in following the progress!! :thumbsup:
 
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How did you install that compression fitting in the overflow for the flexible tubing? I noticed everything at Home Depot is threaded. I assume you have a tap to thread that guy in there?

I suppose I could always just cut the threads and permanently glue the fitting over the hole in the overflow, but I'm looking for a better way without really having to buy stuff like taps.
 
The "compression" fitting is a John Guest type of fitting.....
It is an entire plumbing sub-culture <G> of stuff!
What makes them fn is that they work like the ole classic "Chinese finger toy", where you can insert a pipe - but you cannot pull it out unless you compress a ring at the edge of the fitting. FAST plumbing!

You typically see these used on R.O. systems.... but they have a lot of potential applications for us in the hobby.

For any others interested in what you can do with all of these see the below link for a vendor that carries more of these fittings than I have ever seen:

http://www.freshwatersystems.com/m-3-john-guest.aspx
 
I've seen these before, but I'm wondering if it was installed by tapping the hole, or by just gluing it into place.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14829778#post14829778 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MrSpiffy
I've seen these before, but I'm wondering if it was installed by tapping the hole, or by just gluing it into place.
Click to expand...

threaded hole usually 1/4" or 3/8" pipe.

Jim
 
I feel a bit foolish for asking, but is anyone running this system with a wavebox/wavemaker? I've read the thread over the course of the last few weeks, but i may have missed any references to it...is a wavebox even possible using a coast to coast overflow?
 
Thats pretty much what i assumed, but its just that: Im assuming. I was hoping to find someone who may have attempted to run or is running one.
 
I am not assuming, it will cause a problem IF the water level rises and falls at the drain intakes--- including breaking the siphon, causing the open channel to become a full siphon. Was trying not to sound like Mr Know-- it-- all. I do that too much already.

Jim
 
no, no thats not what i was implying, the know it all thing...i was saying for me, I don't know anything about it and I would be assuming. I appreciate your replies.
I really would like to incorporate a wavemaker/wavebox...but I was hoping to be able to keep the Beananimal overflow. If it's a deal breaker, I probably just won't go with the wavebox.
 
I have read it about in the thread, somewhere, but can't direct you to it. that would be the concern. If the wave maker could be utilized without affecting the water level in the overflow, there would not be a problem. Don't worry about how I took it, I wanted to be clear that I was not assuming, based on the "if" qualification. Wave motion can get a tank to sloshing back and forth. I have vortechs.........

Regards,

Jim
 
Thanks.
I wasn't going to go with one of the Tunze waveboxes or anything like that...i was going to use the bucket-type ATS that i found in Adey's Dynamic Aquaria. They had one with a sort of supplementary overflow that would perhaps keep the water level more constant. The powerhead that fed the ATS was housed in it, would feed the water up to the 'bucket'...so it would only dump and surge once every few minutes...it wouldnt constantly surge the water back and forth in the tank.
I don't know...I like to tinker, I think I'll probably do it anyway just to see what can happen. Worse comes to worst, I can just uninstall the ATS.
 
Ooba-
Will you have a closed lop? If so, why not consider a 3 way motorized ball valve , or a better, an Oceans Motions unit of some variety.
This would provide the "back and forth" you may be seeking, but below the surface so that you do not have the wave/tidal surge at the surface which would screw up your overflow...
Just a vagrant thought from the universe....................
T
 
Yes, thanks Teesquare...i had considered an ocean motions unit, just currently isn't room in the budget for one. I like those a lot, actually.
 
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