Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[uncleof6]

Well I had to look up "laminar" so now I get what you're saying. Does that issue have anything to do with the overall flow? i.e. If im running well under pipe capacity (600gph) of the siphon.

Thanks for saving me a trip to HD.

Oh, and I just though of this...is there some point where the downpipe is too big relative to the return pipe (less head) such that I can create a siphon and successful BA setup? I mean I'll go bigger but I figured it was overkill and more glass stress (bigger holes) for no upside (plan on flow of 500-800).

Flow capacity through the 1" siphon will probably be around 1200 - 1500 max, depending on the length of the drop. So the total flow won't be an issue. However, the laminar flow rate through a 1" air assisted (open channel et al) will be around 50 gph. Rather narrow margin. the 1.25" open channel will give you a bit more flexibility. The other pipes can remain 1".

The system as designed (in bean's thread) will handle a wide range of flow rates from rather high to rather low. However, I don't see a need to increase the pipe size for the siphon and dry emergency since your flow rate will be fairly below the capacity. If you were going to approach 1000 gph or so, I would suggest you up the pipe size on all three. If you used larger pipe @ say 900 gph, the valve would be closed quite a bit, and I don't much like that. 900 gph is where i would run this tank.

 

[uncleof6]

This question is from an old post but I couldn't find an answer. I too plan on running straight out of the tank for about 6-7" before hitting the Tee. Is this ok?

Horizontal runs in the drain lines, can cause an air lock, and prevent the siphon from starting. I would avoid horizontal runs if at all possible--and it usually is.

 

[meegwell]

Horizontal runs in the drain lines, can cause an air lock, and prevent the siphon from starting. I would avoid horizontal runs if at all possible--and it usually is.

So glad i'm exploring this. OK, so the tank will sit 3" from the wall (back side). The wall is 1/2" drywall, then 3.5" stud, no drywall on the otherside (utility room). Total original design horizontal from tank glass exterior = ~7".

To minimize this, I can do 1 of two things:

Drop the first tee between the studs on the other side of the wall. This saves 3.5 inches (or so), but will cause me to have to bring it back out into the sump (another angle, 45 likley sloped into the sump).

or

Do a 45 righ outside the tank, angle through the wall, another 45 on the other side, straight down to the sump.

Having the three inch span between the tank and the wall straight would be much cleaner and not block my cleaning space as much as an angled downpipe...how much of a difference are we talking here as far as getting the siphon started? I will also have the siphen hole a half inch lower than the other two FWIW.

 

[uncleof6]

Be cleaner yes, but the 45° angle will work better.

 

[eagle9252]

Come out off the bottom of the tee on the tank and then 45 through the wall and then 45 to the sump

 

[uncleof6]

That is the basic idea yes.

 

[dairelee]

I have set up the Bean Overflow on my 240. It works great except when I lose power or shut down the pumps. When they turn back on, I can't get the siphon to automatically start again. I have to unscrew the cap to the main drain to "flush it out". Am I missing something?

 

[uncleof6]

Most likely one of two things: The drain outlets are too deep in the sump, or you have a horizontal run in the drain line, and it is air locking. Two other possibilities are the dry emergency inlet is not high enough in relation to the siphon, or the air tube in the "open channel" is set to low in the overflow. Any of these things will prevent the water level in the overflow from developing enough "head pressure" to purge the air out of the siphon line.

 

[dairelee]

Could be the drain outlets are too deep in sump. I don't have any horizontal runs in the drain lines. The dry emergency inlet has an elbow pointing upwards, much higher than the siphon so I don't think it's that. I haven't attached the air tube from the open channel to anything yet - it's just laying on top of the brace. I'll try to shorten the drain outlets.

Thanks

 

[marcwake]

I am planning on using this style overflow but I need to go through a closet to my fish room. I will have to make a horizontal run of close to 4 ft to get there. Is there a way to make this work? I had planned on trying to keep a slight slope through the whole run, will this help?

Thanks

 

[uncleof6]

Yes, you can make it reliably work by angling the horizontal run down at a 45° angle. 22.5°, I have not tried, but it will most likely work as well.

 

[Atmoz]

Hi everyone!

I'm new to this amazing forum, but due to this forum I today bought my first aquarium :inlove: (wow, already in love with all this... :spin1 It's a 240 liter (63 gallon) tank.

First of all: I wanted to say thank you to all the guys with those smart ideas (for example BeanAnimal!!) The overflow mechanism in this thread looks very, very cool. I also went to the hardware store to buy all the PVC I need to make this.

I was wondering (because the start-date from this topic is 02/03/2008) if the system/mechanism in the TS is still "up to date"? Or are there in the meantime better options? I bought a 45mm glass-drill, but I don't want to use it before I exactly know that this is the way to go.

So I'm very curious now, lol

With kind regards,

Atmoz


Oh, and sorry for my English: I'm from the Netherlands!

 

[uncleof6]

This technology is current and up to date. It is also, the best drain system out there. Nothing else comes close to the performance.

Used in conjunction with the full length, "Coast to Coast" overflow, it is the definitive "reef ready" system, that the mass produced RR tanks fail miserably at competing with.

The down side is you have to build it yourself, and build it as designed. Some modifications, don't cause issues, however some do.

Here is the short version:

http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx

Bean: Just send a check......

 

[BeanAnimal]

If I were making ANY money on the idea, I would be more than happy to

Nothing for sale, no ad-words, no affilate networks... just silly me hosting a wesbsite... Maybe a could put up a few "donate" PayPal links. Is there a BeerPal link? BaconPal link?

 

[eagle9252]

Beananimal i sent you a pm.

i will also be setting up a BA on a seahorse tank

 

[uncleof6]

If I were making ANY money on the idea, I would be more than happy to

Nothing for sale, no ad-words, no affilate networks... just silly me hosting a wesbsite... Maybe a could put up a few "donate" PayPal links. Is there a BeerPal link? BaconPal link?

Hummm, can probably make a BeerPal or BaconPal link.............

 

[Atmoz]

This technology is current and up to date. It is also, the best drain system out there. Nothing else comes close to the performance.

Used in conjunction with the full length, "Coast to Coast" overflow, it is the definitive "reef ready" system, that the mass produced RR tanks fail miserably at competing with.

The down side is you have to build it yourself, and build it as designed. Some modifications, don't cause issues, however some do.

Here is the short version:

http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx

Bean: Just send a check......

Thanks for the fast reply!

I think I understand mostly how this beautiful system works, except for this part:

In the "normal" situation the middle (Full Siphon) standpipe does the job. Only VERY little water exits via the Open Channel Standpipe. But how does this exits? It only works if the water level is (a little) higher then the bottom of the horizontal pipe, right? (because the is no suction or whatever in that Standpipe)

Am I correct with this?

BeanAnimal: why don't you put a "Donate via PayPal button" on your website? I would be happy to donate something for your great ideas/research/work!

With kind regards,

Atmoz

 

[Atmoz]

Anyone?

 

[uncleof6]

After the siphon starts, the valve on the siphon is closed, which raises the water level in the overflow. The water level is raised till water just flows in the open channel. Generally, the water level will be above the centerline of the elbows, and usually around the top of the elbows. (down turned elbows.) Sorry for the delay. I saw this last night, and spaced it.....

 

[Atmoz]

After the siphon starts, the valve on the siphon is closed, which raises the water level in the overflow. The water level is raised till water just flows in the open channel. Generally, the water level will be above the centerline of the elbows, and usually around the top of the elbows. (down turned elbows.)

Around the top? Also around the top of the open channel pipe? That can't be the optimal situation, is it? In this way the open channel pipe takes to much water or am I wrong?

I thought this was the ideal situation: (sorry for my Paint skills )

Sorry for the delay. I saw this last night, and spaced it.....

No problem! Thanks again for your reply.

With kind regards,

Atmoz