Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
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SkyReef
New member
Close, but black glass is opaque. You are using smoked glass
Hmm. Then I guess we are talking about separate things. Where does one get black, opaque glass? Three glass shops in my town simply offered me the smoked glass. Do they make it from black sand or is dyed in the process of glass-making. Interesting. Black glass.
Well, in any event, that there is smoked glass sitting in a strip of silicone applied to a clear panel of glass, curing right now on my dining-room table.
I don't imagine there will be a huge difference, when looking at the tank from front; already I can tell that the new overflow box with smoked glass that will be installed on my new 75-gallon build is going to look a whole lot better than the clear-glass overflow-box on my twin-cube setup. I'm pretty psyched to get this new tank up and running, with a skinny-trough overflow box on the inside of the tank, passing water to the external overflow on the outside of the tank.
Lavoisier
Premium Member
Hey guys,
Hopefully this is the best place to pose this question - any input would be appreciated. I am getting ready to purchase a 125g and will absolutely be running Bean's FS overflow. Since I will be new to the hobby, I have been trying to read as much as I possibly can (in fact my wife now tells me I have an obsession)! On to my thoughts and questions -
Aesthetically, I am not happy with powerheads on the side of my tank. If this is the way I go, I will be running 4 1050 GPH heads (2 on each side of the tank). My idea to get rid of these is to run the return with an external pump (probably a 6000 GPH reeflo or similar) and plumb the return similar to the diagram below. I would of course use 1.5" pvc all around and would return using loc-line. As for as the overflow and flow to the sump, the exact beananimal design would be used.
Do you foresee any compromising affects on the fail safe system at all including noise? Any input is greatly appreciated.
I like the Ocean Motion as well and your manifold over the top could look something like this--easy to adjust initially and with changing needs as corals grow:
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uncleof6
Active member
Hmm. Then I guess we are talking about separate things. Where does one get black, opaque glass? Three glass shops in my town simply offered me the smoked glass. Do they make it from black sand or is dyed in the process of glass-making. Interesting. Black glass.
Well, in any event, that there is smoked glass sitting in a strip of silicone applied to a clear panel of glass, curing right now on my dining-room table.
I'm pretty psyched to get this new tank up and running, with a skinny-trough overflow box on the inside of the tank, passing water to the external overflow on the outside of the tank.
Special order item.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Most glass shop don't even know where to source opaque glass, as they simply don't deal in it.
Your best bet is to find a local stained glass shop or artist. Their suppliers deal in all kinds of opaque glass. That said, it still may be hard to get it in thick enough pieces in small qty.
The "smoked" glass is often called by its PPG (if I remember) brand name "Graylite".. Graylite 31 and Graylite 14 are the most common (31% and 14% light transmission). I think another vendor makes Gray 45 (45% light transmission).
Most local glass vendors can get it, or carry it.
Your best bet is to find a local stained glass shop or artist. Their suppliers deal in all kinds of opaque glass. That said, it still may be hard to get it in thick enough pieces in small qty.
The "smoked" glass is often called by its PPG (if I remember) brand name "Graylite".. Graylite 31 and Graylite 14 are the most common (31% and 14% light transmission). I think another vendor makes Gray 45 (45% light transmission).
Most local glass vendors can get it, or carry it.
SkyReef
New member
Thanks, Uncleof 6. Good to know for my next tank.
Thanks, BeanAnimal. I think I got what you are describing, the Graylite or similar. It's pretty dark and goes well with your overflow design. I like the way it blends in to the black background.
Amazing thread! I have to jump in somewhere..so this looks like a good place. 200+ pages and I'm jumping around looking for a place understand the theory. Does all of this scale up and down equally? Lot's of big tank builders here, using large size pipes. Today I bought a 20L sump, baffle kit for making the sump, skimmer and eheim 1250 pump. It's all for a 40 gal breeder tank. A few hours ago I went online to buy a glass hole cutter/overflow kit. Then I see a thread here and......the word Beananimal appears. The rest is history and I'm exhausted!
Is there a step one? Is Weir..the technical name for the overflow? I know my overflow will be inside the tank. Plus the overflow I use will be store bought from somewhere...haven't got that far. Am I disqualified from this method? Is it all centered on making an overflow wide enough to drill three holes of exact spacing to #1 be safe from loss of power and #2, wide enough to not create flow noise?
If you turn a ball valve to regulate/fine-tune output flow from a return pump, does it annoy the pump?
I understand it's a loop. But what gets ranked first during the design? Pump throughput dictates line size? Are you suggesting that the water purification loop(skimmer/refuge) does not have to be part of the overflow/return loop...ideally? That two loops are better than one?
Just trying to learn something tonite!
Is there a step one? Is Weir..the technical name for the overflow? I know my overflow will be inside the tank. Plus the overflow I use will be store bought from somewhere...haven't got that far. Am I disqualified from this method? Is it all centered on making an overflow wide enough to drill three holes of exact spacing to #1 be safe from loss of power and #2, wide enough to not create flow noise?
If you turn a ball valve to regulate/fine-tune output flow from a return pump, does it annoy the pump?
I understand it's a loop. But what gets ranked first during the design? Pump throughput dictates line size? Are you suggesting that the water purification loop(skimmer/refuge) does not have to be part of the overflow/return loop...ideally? That two loops are better than one?
Just trying to learn something tonite!
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BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Lots of question...
Yes the system scales well, but built "as published" it will handle a very wide range of flows without adjusting any of the sizing.
Step 1... Keep reading. Read the project page at my website and then come back a thumb through the thread.
Weir: The "weir" is the part of the overflow that the water flows over. It is a generic (well rather specific) term used in hydrology and civil engineering. In the case of my design, the "weir" is formed by the "coast to coast" overflow. The "beananimal overflow" (Silent and fail-safe overflow) describes the standpipe system used to carry water from the overflow box to the sump.
You can build your own overflow instead of buying one. There is plenty of information here in the thread.
The size of the weir dictates how well the surface of the water is skimmed and (in some cases) if there will be noise from water flowing over it. The "box" that the water flows into needs to be big enoigh to hold the 3 standpipes and their associated fittings.
You should not have to throttle back your return pump to match the system. The overflow system is adjusted by a valve on one of the standpipes. This has nothing to do with the pump. However, to answer your qeustion a different way: You can use a valve to put back pressure on a centrifugal pump (the kind of pumps we use in the hobby) and reduce its flow without doing damage to the pump.
I am not going to answer your "loop" questions, as it would be best for you to spend a bit more time reading. Those answers will become readily appearant once you have done some more research. In the meantime, think of it this way.
A typical backyard swimming pool. There is a filter and a pump. The pump draws water from the pool, pushes it through a filter and back into the pool. This is a "closed loop". The same pool has a sliding board. A small pump pumps water from the pool up to the top of the sliding board. The water then falls back to the pool (down the sliding board) via gravity. This is an "open loop" or gravity fed drainage system. My overflow (all aquarium overflows) are like this sytem. The Dislplay tank is the top of the sliding board and the "sump" is the pool. Water is pumped up by a pump and falls back to the sump via gravity as it overflows the pool.
Hope that helps some.
Yes the system scales well, but built "as published" it will handle a very wide range of flows without adjusting any of the sizing.
Step 1... Keep reading. Read the project page at my website and then come back a thumb through the thread.
Weir: The "weir" is the part of the overflow that the water flows over. It is a generic (well rather specific) term used in hydrology and civil engineering. In the case of my design, the "weir" is formed by the "coast to coast" overflow. The "beananimal overflow" (Silent and fail-safe overflow) describes the standpipe system used to carry water from the overflow box to the sump.
You can build your own overflow instead of buying one. There is plenty of information here in the thread.
The size of the weir dictates how well the surface of the water is skimmed and (in some cases) if there will be noise from water flowing over it. The "box" that the water flows into needs to be big enoigh to hold the 3 standpipes and their associated fittings.
You should not have to throttle back your return pump to match the system. The overflow system is adjusted by a valve on one of the standpipes. This has nothing to do with the pump. However, to answer your qeustion a different way: You can use a valve to put back pressure on a centrifugal pump (the kind of pumps we use in the hobby) and reduce its flow without doing damage to the pump.
I am not going to answer your "loop" questions, as it would be best for you to spend a bit more time reading. Those answers will become readily appearant once you have done some more research. In the meantime, think of it this way.
A typical backyard swimming pool. There is a filter and a pump. The pump draws water from the pool, pushes it through a filter and back into the pool. This is a "closed loop". The same pool has a sliding board. A small pump pumps water from the pool up to the top of the sliding board. The water then falls back to the pool (down the sliding board) via gravity. This is an "open loop" or gravity fed drainage system. My overflow (all aquarium overflows) are like this sytem. The Dislplay tank is the top of the sliding board and the "sump" is the pool. Water is pumped up by a pump and falls back to the sump via gravity as it overflows the pool.
Hope that helps some.
Thank You! Yes it was alot of question. I was not aware you had a website. I will look for it and I'm sure I'll enjoy it. Six years of a few internal powerheads and a HOB skimmer allowed me to get off easy. Now it's time to down-size and do things better.
I've spent at least 18 hours over the last 4 days exploring various builds and subjects. A few threads like this one make it all worth while.
I've spent at least 18 hours over the last 4 days exploring various builds and subjects. A few threads like this one make it all worth while.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx
That will help alot. Keep in mind the machanics: Water is being pumped up to the display tank and from there overflows a dam (the weir). It falls through the standpipe system back into the sump. The rate of flow is determined by the pump, not the overflow system. The overflow system either handles ALL of the flow or it does not. If it does not, then the display tank overflows and floods the floor.
That will help alot. Keep in mind the machanics: Water is being pumped up to the display tank and from there overflows a dam (the weir). It falls through the standpipe system back into the sump. The rate of flow is determined by the pump, not the overflow system. The overflow system either handles ALL of the flow or it does not. If it does not, then the display tank overflows and floods the floor.
Overflow Location
Overflow Location
Hi
First off i've spent the last two nights trying to read and understand everything. So much information, so little time! Beananimal nice work on this and cheers to everyone who keeps on helping....
I'm purchasing a 220 gallon and need to send the overflow specs to he company for drilling. The tank dimensions are 72X24X30. I will have the butt end against the wall and the remaining walls of the tank will be visible for viewing. I want to have the bean animal design on the butt end coast to coast(24 inches). I see most people have the overflow along one of the longer walls in the middle or coast to coast. Is there any concern for water flow or compromising the beananimal design if I move ahead with this?
Any help/confirmations would be great.
Overflow Location
Hi
First off i've spent the last two nights trying to read and understand everything. So much information, so little time! Beananimal nice work on this and cheers to everyone who keeps on helping....
I'm purchasing a 220 gallon and need to send the overflow specs to he company for drilling. The tank dimensions are 72X24X30. I will have the butt end against the wall and the remaining walls of the tank will be visible for viewing. I want to have the bean animal design on the butt end coast to coast(24 inches). I see most people have the overflow along one of the longer walls in the middle or coast to coast. Is there any concern for water flow or compromising the beananimal design if I move ahead with this?
Any help/confirmations would be great.
uncleof6
Active member
With the variety of bulkhead/pipe sizes there are, it is not likely that you can flow enough to compromise this drain system, it can be tweaked to flow more than you would want to send to the tank, using reasonably sized pumps. With larger pipe, you would have trouble finding a pump to overcome the systems capacity.
The question of the overflow length, weir length, is another set of thoughts. I would run 2000 gph + through this system, and for that (as an approximation,) you would want 30" of weir length without teeth. However, as long as the overflow itself were not too narrow, it would still handle the flow rate, but the water would rise more behind the weir (head pressure,) reducing the skimming efficiency, and there would possibly be some noise, and perhaps some bubbles generated in the box, due to the higher velocity. But as far as compromising the drain system--short answer--no.
thanks for the info uncleof6, what your saying makes sense...I have one other option. One of the long sides of the tank will be against a wall for 39 inches. I did not want to use this wall because it will now require me to set the tank out from the wall. Based on what your saying I should get better results going with this 39 inch overflow. You mention about teeth. I always just assumed you had/should have teeth, is this not true? Going with 39 inches do you still recommend no teeth? I expect to be using 1.5 inch bulk heads. Your 2000 gph is pretty much what I expect to be sending into the tank.
ISMANU
New member
So since I will be using this overflow system in my tank I thought I would post my Scetch-up progress here. I had already ordered the tank so it was prepped with different plans in mind but I think I will be able to adapt it well. Still learning to use scetch-up and have a long way to go but here is what I got so far
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uncleof6
Active member
Yes I still recommend no teeth. Teeth take 39 inches and turn it into 19" or worse ~ 10" of actual linear length overflow. We are looking for maximum linear length. Teeth look cool, and that is about the extent of it. They don't keep critters out of the overflow, and severely limit the surface skimming. The channeling makes for a louder overflow, and what we want is maximum surface skimming and quiet operation... ok before I get redundant here....
Hey uncleof6. I was searching around for my final design and just happened to come across this which just happens to be yours ....this design you have in the picture is exactly what I want, however i'll go 39 inches from the edge instead of the full C2C. Do you have more detailed dimensions of this setup that I can use to send to the tank manufacturer?
http://s655.beta.photobucket.com/user/uncleof6/media/337galloncustom4.jpg.html
cheers
....this design you have in the picture is exactly what I want, however i'll go 39 inches from the edge instead of the full C2C. Do you have more detailed dimensions of this setup that I can use to send to the tank manufacturer?http://s655.beta.photobucket.com/user/uncleof6/media/337galloncustom4.jpg.html
cheers
alessandro
New member
Hi from the old Europe! (Italy)
here we do not have much familiarity with the beananimal overflow but I have spent a lot of time reading this looong thread and I like this overflow a lot!
The thing i like more, apart of course to be silent and failsafe, is the ability to carry a large amount of water, well above any other solution.
I am planning my new tank.
It will be:
170x110x70 cm ( about 68*44*28H inches) with a sump of 120x60 (48"x24").
About 350 gallons.
I want an external coast to coast overflow on the longer side with a beananimal.
The return lines will be 2 driven from 2 return pumps (i think to Red Dragon 2 x 6000/7000 litres -each (1800 gph each).
Could you please suggest me the ideal dimension for overflow (I am thinking 15x15 cm (6"x6") or 15x20 height cm - 6"x 8" height) all the longer side.
Better higher?
Could you please help me also with the correct diameter of the 3 beananimal pipes and the 2 return pipes?
Thank you very much for your help.
Alessandro
here we do not have much familiarity with the beananimal overflow but I have spent a lot of time reading this looong thread and I like this overflow a lot!
The thing i like more, apart of course to be silent and failsafe, is the ability to carry a large amount of water, well above any other solution.
I am planning my new tank.
It will be:
170x110x70 cm ( about 68*44*28H inches) with a sump of 120x60 (48"x24").
About 350 gallons.
I want an external coast to coast overflow on the longer side with a beananimal.
The return lines will be 2 driven from 2 return pumps (i think to Red Dragon 2 x 6000/7000 litres -each (1800 gph each).
Could you please suggest me the ideal dimension for overflow (I am thinking 15x15 cm (6"x6") or 15x20 height cm - 6"x 8" height) all the longer side.
Better higher?
Could you please help me also with the correct diameter of the 3 beananimal pipes and the 2 return pipes?
Thank you very much for your help.
Alessandro
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