Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
Thanks! You should get a percentage of all the money BeanAnimal makes off this thread with all the work you do on it.
Our Lowes had a mix of Carolina which allege to be made in US, and Lasco, btw. All in the wrong bins.
uncleof6
Active member
Good question. Probably your best bet is landscape irrigation supply houses, generally they will carry spears and/or lassco. Charlotte Pipe & Foundry, is another--if you want to buy bulk.
Some LFS, some savvy LFS, will have a selection of spears fittings. We have one out here.Bulkheads are a bit trickier. BRS does have ABS bulkheads I believe. Glass-Holes.com has the most common ones, and will send you some candy as well.
Good question. Probably your best bet is landscape irrigation supply houses, generally they will carry spears and/or lassco. Charlotte Pipe & Foundry, is another--if you want to buy bulk.
Bulkheads are a bit trickier. BRS does have ABS bulkheads I believe. Glass-Holes.com has the most common ones, and will send you some candy as well.
Charlotte! That's the one that Lowes carries around here. Not Carolina. Knew it was something south of me. No bulkheads, though, of course.
uncleof6
Active member
Thanks! You should get a percentage of all the money BeanAnimal makes off this thread with all the work you do on it.
What is 20% of 0?
May be just a typo, but if the brand is "Lasco" it is something else. "Lassco" is how it is spelled.
And there is a test to be hired by home depot?
Charlotte Pipe and Foundry, makes the Sanitary Tees that I can get my hands on fairly easily. Spears makes them also. Charlotte does not just "claim" to be US made.
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BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Thanks! You should get a percentage of all the money BeanAnimal makes off this thread with all the work you do on it.
.
I suspect Jim helps out simply because (like me) he enjoys helping others learn and enjoy the benefits of doing things "right". There is no monetization mechanism
So yes Jim gets 20% of 0 + a bonus for every post.
I simply don't have the time or energy to answer all of the questions here, via PM and via email. It is nice that Jim and a few others stop in to help out. Not only do they help out, but they attempt to keep the topic and advice in context to the original design goals instead of allowing it morph into something else.
Hate to say it, but I think you're wrong about that spelling.
http://www.lascofittings.com/
Also, see attached image of the threaded cap which was among the parts I just bought from Lowes for spelling.
Edit: Last question for a while, I think, and it's about a mod to BeanAnimal's design, so it's one of the annoying ones.
I would really like to run the sump in the basement. This will involve a diagonal run with a slope of about 1 foot down over 8 feet across. I have a 75 gallon tank and a 50 gallon stock tank sump. I'm aiming for about 600-750gph of flow.
Would I have a greater chance of getting my main drain with the diagonal run to start the siphon if I used 1" for the full siphon line instead of 1.5"?
Once the siphon is started the 1" will give me plenty of flow, and it seems like the narrower diameter would make it easier for the pipe to fill with water and the higher velocity in the narrower pipe would have a greater chance of sweeping the air into the sump instead of just letting the bubbles roll around in there. I'd still use 1.5" for the open channel and emergency. I'll also use 1 foot lengths of spaflex instead of elbows to make very gentle transitions between the initial vertical drop, the diagonal run, and the last vertical drop to the sump.
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mr.maroonsalty
New member
Just a follow up: My wet test is ROCKING! I must have hairline cracked my bulkheads for the syphon bulkheads as I cannot get them to seal; I'm using megalock paste and all my other fittings are good, hardly a big deal at all. I plan to borrow a killawatt reader to try and calculate total gph. The two backup drains handle a complete stop of the syphon easily. The curious test was what would happen should one of the syphons block and not the other? Water in the box that is blocked rises over the back up drain taking over the work: the water in the open syphon box drops and becomes a non-syphon drain as the valve settings are far to open for the suction to hold. I have to decide if I should use stand pipes in the syphon bulk heads in order to raise the water level in the sump? I could get another 7-10 total volume above my main pump drain. What is so nice is the wye in the syphon; with the second 1" gate valve I have sooo much control of water level in the box. A 5 min turn of the handle on a single 1 1/2" gate is almost a 15 min adjustment on the two valve 1" drain giving me a fine tuner.
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nemosworld
Active member
75 gallon beananimal with internal/external overflow
75 gallon beananimal with internal/external overflow
just a quick pic of a 75 gallon i am working on.
i went with a internal external overflow for aesthetics, don't want to see a bulky overflow in the tank, this will help with rock-scaping as well.
the internal is off center by 1 inch, too lazy to fix it. not that A**L!
This tank has both 1 inch drain holes and returns.
the back of the stand will be extended to both support the 1.5 inch drains and to hide the plumbing from side view like i did with my 40 gal.
75 gallon beananimal with internal/external overflow
just a quick pic of a 75 gallon i am working on.
i went with a internal external overflow for aesthetics, don't want to see a bulky overflow in the tank, this will help with rock-scaping as well.
the internal is off center by 1 inch, too lazy to fix it. not that A**L!
This tank has both 1 inch drain holes and returns.
the back of the stand will be extended to both support the 1.5 inch drains and to hide the plumbing from side view like i did with my 40 gal.
BigH2OChief
New member
Hey Unc!
SITREP... over:
1) Just finished drilling 4 holes in the 55g. Punched them all through with little effort (and not disaster) in less than 15 minutes start to finish.
2) RB Glass cut my C2C Weir to-fit and hooked me up with 6ea 1/4" glass baffles for the 29g Sump, and,
3) Headed to the Orange Box to pick-up plumbing supplies for the Weir. Going to wait till my return pump and skimmer arrive (hopefully next week) for the long pipe runs, and set the sump baffles (according to actual equipment footprints).
4) Still waiting for 'Murphy' to jump in... but so far, deliberate planning has been gracious.
More to follow soonest... Big Chief, Out.
SITREP... over:
1) Just finished drilling 4 holes in the 55g. Punched them all through with little effort (and not disaster) in less than 15 minutes start to finish.
2) RB Glass cut my C2C Weir to-fit and hooked me up with 6ea 1/4" glass baffles for the 29g Sump, and,
3) Headed to the Orange Box to pick-up plumbing supplies for the Weir. Going to wait till my return pump and skimmer arrive (hopefully next week) for the long pipe runs, and set the sump baffles (according to actual equipment footprints).
4) Still waiting for 'Murphy' to jump in... but so far, deliberate planning has been gracious.
More to follow soonest... Big Chief, Out.
BigH2OChief
New member
So my sleek 2.8" Weir (as expected) is too sleek for the 1" 90 Degree coming off the BHs. I took off 1/4" on the flange side of each already but still way to tight. Going to need to cut down the face of the 90 by at least 1/8" then we should be comfy (and fit).
BigH2OChief
New member
With respect... Yes Sir you have explicitly stated to refrain from the small footprint and I aknowlege concurence. The freehand cutting to force plumbing to fit is not worth the agrivatioin. I'll have RB Glass set me up a bottom plate and side (for $14 +/-) instead. I'm still stoked that I drilled a 55G and it DID NOT shatter all over my driveway!
nemosworld
Active member
when ever i design an overflow, i always consider my hand fitting in there, and the ease of getting elbows in and out. bigh20chief, at-least glass don't cost that much, so it's easy to fix the problem, on the bright side you learned from your mistake and can pass along the advice to another reefer.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
There are some 55's out there that are not tempered. As far as I know, untempered 55s were a rarity, but maybe not anymore.
I had to cut my elbows down to get them to fit inside my somewhat narrow box. The box is hard to work in when something falls in, or the elbows have to be moved, etc. The 55 is already shallow, so a narrow internal wier with an external box would likely work out much better.
I had to cut my elbows down to get them to fit inside my somewhat narrow box. The box is hard to work in when something falls in, or the elbows have to be moved, etc. The 55 is already shallow, so a narrow internal wier with an external box would likely work out much better.
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