Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

I was thinking about adding this system to 180 gallons tank, is it ok to use 1.5" pipes and fittings with 1" bulkheads ? or should i go with 1.5" bulkheads, the tank is not drilled yet.
 
Yes. However, if you could obtain the parts this could be done with 1.25" bulkheads, elbows and pipe. (which aquarium suppliers completely ignore.) You don't need the flow capacity of 1.5", yet 1" is too small (cutting it too close.) So the 180 falls inbetween.
 
Drain pipe

Drain pipe

I have started a new build and going to use the bean animal overflow. The aquarium is 72x28x24 with external C2C overflow 48X5X12 with 3 predrilled 1.5" holes. The stand is 35" inches high.

I have a few questions as follow:

1) For the drain pipes, can I use 90 degree elbows and routed to the sump intake? Would there any impact with the 90 degree elbows to the system? I am planning to use 2 90 degree elbows on each drain pipe so that I can mount it to the tank intake on the top of the drain chamber.

2) For the return, 2 predrilled 1" holes on the back. I am wondering what GPH pump should I choose for the return.

Thanks and any help would be greatly appreciated.

David
 
Yes. However, if you could obtain the parts this could be done with 1.25" bulkheads, elbows and pipe. (which aquarium suppliers completely ignore.) You don't need the flow capacity of 1.5", yet 1" is too small (cutting it too close.) So the 180 falls inbetween.

i'll stick with all 1.5", it is hard to get 1.25 parts here. and i never found any in local stores. thanks uncle for your help :)
 
1" bulkheads are plenty big enough for a 90 gallon tank, max real world flow capacity, to be expected, would be ~ 1200gph. Due to issues with noise with open channel drains, you would be better off using 1.5" pipe on the 1" bulkheads. The original design was done on a 75 gallon tank, 1" bulkheads, with 1.5" pipe...
But this was done as it was what he had to work with. BA said he had the 1" bulkheads on hand and that it was easier to find 1.5" valves and sanitary tees.

What pump, and what flow rate?
Unknown at this time since I'm still in the planning stage, hence the plumbing questions. Want to do it once and do it right the first time.

As for the returns, two return lines accomplish nothing, but reduce the flow rate due to increased friction loss. On an 8' 240 there is a purpose for them. What size pipe should be used is determined by the pump outlet size, and the pipe size should be one size above that, in most cases.
OK, so one size up for the return pipe over the pump outlet size. Got it. This will be determined by the size of the pump's outlet. Don't yet know what pump size/gph rate yet, would assume at 90 gallons, about 600 gph actual so maybe a 600~800 gph pump? Overkill?


Mag drive pumps 9.5 and larger need to be 1.5". I fail to see what power heads have to do with one return line or two return lines. Either way you still need the power heads, to move water to the bottom of the tank, and you still need the same number of power heads...
I was thinking two return lines to spread the return water as much as possible through the tank to keep temp and chemical composition more even (for dosing, top-off with ro/di, etc). I intended to have a PH beneath each return, turning back and forth (sea swirls?) to mix the return water with the DT water better and create a random flow pattern. I intend to have two PHs in the tank, either way.
 
Since more than a year I have a beananimal overflow that has always worked fine.
But lately after every water change, when I restart the pumps the main drain pipe doesn't restart and the water passes from the secondary.
To restart it I have to remove the U part, so water falls inside the pipe and reinserting the U part the beananimal works fine.
The U-pipe of the main is slightly lower than secondary to facilitate the start in fact for over a year it worked perfectly.
What could have happened?
 
I think I have my the calculations close to right.

Overflow box is 5.25" high (5.50" if you count the bottom of the 1/4" acrylic), so from top to the inside of the bottom edge is 5.25"

I'm looking at a 0.75" gap at the bottom...from the box bottom to the bottom of the elbow.

Using 1" bulkheads, the center of my holes should be roughly 2.75" down from the bottom of my tank trim. Each hole will be approximately 1.5" from each other (edge to edge - or should I take that out to 2" between holes?)

Hoping to pick up the tank this week, now that my torn calf is healed enough to put some weight on it. If the measurements are right (many here will forget more than I'll ever know about this stuff), I'll make my template from a 1x4 in the garage, and get busy!
 
Where's the best place to get all the parts for the plumbing of the overflow? Also, do I want to get slip fittings or threaded?
 
1" bulkheads would not be enough for a tank this size. You are going to want to use 1.5" bulkheads, and 1.5" pipe.

Uh oh....I may have missed something big here. My 2nd tank I plan to do this overflow system with is a 300g tank with 75g sump. The pump I've purchased is a Sicce High Flow Syncra 12.0 with 3200gph at 0' and approx. 2600gph at ~5'. I have purchased all plumbing except gate valve. I've got 1 1/4" elbows into 1" bulkheads into 1 1/2" down piping. Pump runs 1 1/2" outlet.

I will be short flow with a 1" bulkhead??? Can I upgrade the full syphon to a 1 1/2" bulkhead with 1 1/2" elbow and keep the other 2 setup as described?

With a complete blockage of the full syphon the 2nd would not fully carry the volume if still a 1" bulkhead but I of course still have the 3rd pipe.

Do I need to buy different plumbing parts? Thx.
 
can't figure out how to edit???

Also w.r.t. to gate valves, I have been asked by a supplier: Did you want the EPDM seal, the BUNA seal or the FKM seal? Which one do I want? Thank you.
 
Im having a new tank built, approx. 72x28x28 with three bulkheads. I don't run a lot of flow through my sump; generally 3-5 times so approx. 900-1400 gallons.

Could I get away with 1 inch drains or should i go with 1.5 drains?

Thanks.
 
Uh oh....I may have missed something big here. My 2nd tank I plan to do this overflow system with is a 300g tank with 75g sump. The pump I've purchased is a Sicce High Flow Syncra 12.0 with 3200gph at 0' and approx. 2600gph at ~5'. I have purchased all plumbing except gate valve. I've got 1 1/4" elbows into 1" bulkheads into 1 1/2" down piping. Pump runs 1 1/2" outlet.

I will be short flow with a 1" bulkhead??? Can I upgrade the full syphon to a 1 1/2" bulkhead with 1 1/2" elbow and keep the other 2 setup as described?

With a complete blockage of the full syphon the 2nd would not fully carry the volume if still a 1" bulkhead but I of course still have the 3rd pipe.

Do I need to buy different plumbing parts? Thx.

You will come up short, and the pump is too small. You need to target 3000gph at the total dynamic head. We are talking pumps in the Reeflo Barracuda/Hammerhead class....
 
can't figure out how to edit???

Also w.r.t. to gate valves, I have been asked by a supplier: Did you want the EPDM seal, the BUNA seal or the FKM seal? Which one do I want? Thank you.

Actually what you want is Viton seals.... KBI is the only one that uses them, as far as I know. Viton holds up better in salt water.
 
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Im having a new tank built, approx. 72x28x28 with three bulkheads. I don't run a lot of flow through my sump; generally 3-5 times so approx. 900-1400 gallons.

Could I get away with 1 inch drains or should i go with 1.5 drains?

Thanks.

Why not run flow in proportion to the tank size rather than the old antiquated rules of thumb for undergravel filters? No reason not to flow as much as possible through the sump. Like in the area of 2400 gph...(no power heads do not make up the difference...) In a multi-pass system the higher the flow the better. Aquariums are multi-pass systems, not single-pass systems.

You won't make it with 1" drain lines, and will need 1.5".
 
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