Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[uncleof6]

not an external pump...interesting

The RLSS Waveline pumps go both ways, you need to get the seals to run it external is all.

I use the RLSS pumps and personally can vouch for them. I can't vouch for anything else. Most are superficially the same almost, but the difference is in the attention to detail between good quality and junk...

You don't need 'true union' valves. They are a waste of money. Good quality valves, (which you should be buying, not HD junk) disassemble for service insitu.

Valve placement is not critical for a "normal" drop. For a basement drop, the valve should be as close to the sump as possible. Putting the valve under the stand near the sump, won't hurt a thing with a normal drop.

 

[clugo]

I plan to go internal

 

[clugo]

Thanks uncleof6!!

 

[SAZ03]

Can someone help me here? I cant find through these 287 pages if I can run a beananimal on my existing internal overflow that has 2 1" bulkheads and two .75" bulkheads. I would use one .75" bulhead for the return but that leaves two 1" bulkheads and one .75" bulkhead for the bean. Is this going to be ok and work correctly?

 

[pdiehm]

Finally got around to drawing up something.

Tank Dimensions are 60x18x23, Sump dimensions are 36x18x17.
Stand is 40" tall.

There's going to be 3 45 degree elbows near the bottom to run pipes into the sump, and right now I'm leaning towards splitting off the return so I can put screens on top of the tank until I can build a canopy.

As mentioned before, the hole centers are going to be 2.75" from bottom trim for the main siphon, 2.25" from the bottom trim for the Open and Emergency, 1" bulkheads, with 1.5" piping.

 

[pdiehm]

Can someone help me here? I cant find through these 287 pages if I can run a beananimal on my existing internal overflow that has 2 1" bulkheads and two .75" bulkheads. I would use one .75" bulhead for the return but that leaves two 1" bulkheads and one .75" bulkhead for the bean. Is this going to be ok and work correctly?

why not make the drains all 1" bulkheads?

 

[uncleof6]

Can someone help me here? I cant find through these 287 pages if I can run a beananimal on my existing internal overflow that has 2 1" bulkheads and two .75" bulkheads. I would use one .75" bulhead for the return but that leaves two 1" bulkheads and one .75" bulkhead for the bean. Is this going to be ok and work correctly?

Corner standard overflows are not good candidates for a bean system...

 

[uncleof6]

Finally got around to drawing up something.

Tank Dimensions are 60x18x23, Sump dimensions are 36x18x17.
Stand is 40" tall.

There's going to be 3 45 degree elbows near the bottom to run pipes into the sump, and right now I'm leaning towards splitting off the return so I can put screens on top of the tank until I can build a canopy.

As mentioned before, the hole centers are going to be 2.75" from bottom trim for the main siphon, 2.25" from the bottom trim for the Open and Emergency, 1" bulkheads, with 1.5" piping.

No basis for raising the open channel bulkhead higher than the others. The issue this 'mitigates' is an issue caused by faulty implementation, not a problem inherent with the drain system.

Consider not running your return line into a tee. A tee just kills the flow rate.

Also I believe there is something off with your hole meausurements... which will result in an unusually long drop into the overflow...

The reference point is the underside of the lip inside the trim, edge of hole 1.75" down from there, and 3/4" to the center of the hole, which puts the hole 1 3/4" higher than what you are describing, unless the description is not clear...(adding so the nut clears the trim on the outside of the tank if necessary.)

 

[pdiehm]

No basis for raising the open channel bulkhead higher than the others. The issue this 'mitigates' is an issue caused by faulty implementation, not a problem inherent with the drain system.

Consider not running your return line into a tee. A tee just kills the flow rate.

Also I believe there is something off with your hole meausurements... which will result in an unusually long drop into the overflow...

The reference point is the underside of the lip inside the trim, edge of hole 1.75" down from there, and 3/4" to the center of the hole, which puts the hole 1 3/4" higher than what you are describing, unless the description is not clear...(adding so the nut clears the trim on the outside of the tank if necessary.)

The Overflow box is 5.5" deep. To the floor of that box is 5.25". If I go 2.5" from the bottom lip of the trim, isnt that basically where I'm at?

In the design, the center of the holes are 2.75", 2.25" and 2.25". If my calculations are right (and they very easily could be wrong), that 2.75 hole center puts the bottom of the elbow 1/2" off the overflow floor. Moving it up 1/4" to 2.50" brings that gap to 3/4".

If I'm misunderstanding, please explain. I'm new, I want to learn, and I ask a million and 1 questions.

 

[pdiehm]

And this is where i'm confused.

Attached is a picture of my overflow box outlined, 5.5" from the botton of the trim. Disregard the dots in the middle. My marker bumped the glass twice while measuring.

The top line is 2.5" from the inside lip (at the top...there is no inside piece of the trim, like the piece on the outside).

The 2nd line is 2.5" from the bottom of the outside trim.

From that line to the bottom of the box is 3".

I'm missing something or misunderstanding. Probably both :hmm3:

 

[uncleof6]

Top line represents the top of the weir. The actual minimum dimension is 2 5/8" to center third line, giving 1 3/4" safe distance from edge of glass (actually more...second line) However, compensating for the outside dimension of the elbow, knudge the hole down another 1/8". This is represented by the 4th line. Where you are describing the hole center, the lower hole is where your hole will be... will it hurt anything? No, just a longer waterfall, which you want to be around 1" for silence...on the other hand, another half inch down will pull the top of the upturned elbow below the top of the weir, if using spears elbows for one. The trim I drew is very typical, but there could be some variation. It is easy to compensate though. Forget the box dimensions till after you have the holes drilled, and the plumbing installed or you may end up sorry...pvc part dimensions are neither uniform or consistant; get all the parts first and do more measuring before finalizing the hole placement.

 

[pdiehm]

Uncle, I really appreciate the drawing. The visual helps. I went out to the tank, and put my ruler on the front lip of the trim and marked down 1.75"

There's plenty of room. Rough eyeing the elbow I have looks like 2" to the bottom of the box. I need to get some bulkheads, and then go from there.

 

[SAZ03]

Unbelievable!!! Just finished my Beananimal mod. All I can say is WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!

Not only is it silent but after about 15-20 minutes of adjustments all turbulence stopped. It actually looks like there is no water movement in the sump. Its perfectly still and calm. This goes way beyone my expectations of a Beananimal system when I started. The end results was worth the effort.

 

[pdiehm]

Made it to page 109 of the thread!

I'm going to do what the original design was set up with. 1" bulkheads, 1.5" pvc tubing. 1" single return. GLUING the pvc together.

2 things I'm still foggy on:

1) Do the down turned elbows inside the overflow box need to be near the bottom of the box? Mine will not be, using Uncle's numbers above, leaves me ~2-2.25" to the bottom of the overflow box.

2) Back on page 103, or there abouts, a chap posted a picture of his open channel, where the tubing was below the emergency elbow opening. i was under the impression that you want the open channel airline to be above that emergency opening, or does it not matter?

Hoping to order bulkheads, and visit Lowes or Home Depot this week, and drill this weekend at some point.

 

[pdiehm]

Went to Lowes, got some of the PVC parts...you never know how big 1.5" piping is until you see it. Golly.

In the picture you will see 2 5' sections of 1.5" PVC pipe, 1 1.5" True union Ball Valve, 3 1.5" slip x 1" slip bushing, 3 1.5" NPT x 1.5" slip Adaptor, 3 1.5" caps, 3 45 degree slip elbows (may need 3 more) and 3 1.5" sanitary-tee's

Still need: 1/4" Tube x 3/8" NPT John Guest Fitting, 1/4" John Guest Tubing, and 1.5" unions.

My questions about the space in the box have been answered as I have the right elbow, and have about 1-1.5" to the bottom of the box (estimated).

 

[pdiehm]

Went to Lowes, and found a 36"x6"x.75" board, which is the same height as my overflow box. Measured down 1.75", got my center marks...and laid out the 1.25x1" elbows. Doesn't look like it, but the emergency will be in line with the bottom trim of the tank. In looking at the picture, it is Emergency, Open (will attach the air tubing to the emergency via ziptie) and then the main. Roughly 7" between hole centers.

bottom of elbow to edge of board is 1.5".

Getting ready to drill this board to use as a template. Will sit on top of gaskets, clamp down, fill with water, and zip through the glass (theoretically).

 

[uncleof6]

Went to Lowes, and found a 36"x6"x.75" board, which is the same height as my overflow box. Measured down 1.75", got my center marks...and laid out the 1.25x1" elbows. Doesn't look like it, but the emergency will be in line with the bottom trim of the tank. In looking at the picture, it is Emergency, Open (will attach the air tubing to the emergency via ziptie) and then the main. Roughly 7" between hole centers.

bottom of elbow to edge of board is 1.5".

Getting ready to drill this board to use as a template. Will sit on top of gaskets, clamp down, fill with water, and zip through the glass (theoretically).

If you drop the holes down another 1/2" or so, it will drop the upturned elbow below the top of the overflow...if you want.

 

[Tpakiz]

Uncle (or others)...quick question.

I've read the entire thread and the reoccurring theme is "build it as designed". However, it has been stated that the 1" bulkheads in the original design are only because that was what Bean had to work with on his tank.

With a blank canvas, are the 1" bulkheads still recommended and preferred? At what size tank (or flow rate) do you start thinking about 1.5" bulkheads?

 

[pdiehm]

If you drop the holes down another 1/2" or so, it will drop the upturned elbow below the top of the overflow...if you want.

I may split it and go down 1/4" to give more room for error...just in case situation. You had mentioned something about trying to keep the water moving 1" or less...what did you mean by that?

 

[uncleof6]

Uncle (or others)...quick question.

I've read the entire thread and the reoccurring theme is "build it as designed". However, it has been stated that the 1" bulkheads in the original design are only because that was what Bean had to work with on his tank.

With a blank canvas, are the 1" bulkheads still recommended and preferred? At what size tank (or flow rate) do you start thinking about 1.5" bulkheads?

Unless you are targeting above ~ 1500gph, there is no reason in the world to use bulkheads larger than 1". Start issues have been reported when running low flow rates using large bulkheads...This has been said many times throughout the thread...