Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

Uncleof6,

I have managed to read approximately 215 pages after the split (255 tota) of the thread.

I'm planning on running this just as bean has on post 1, but I wanted to get your opinion on something.

Am I ok using 1" bulkheads with 1.5" PVC piping as originally designed with an eheim 5000 pump on a 110 gallon tank (40 gallon sump)? Or would I be better off bumping up to 1.5" bulkheads?

I have the 1.75" diamond bit, I have not ordered the bulkheads as of yet.

If I understand correctly, the 1" bulkhead with 1.5" piping can get to 2000 gph without breaking a sweat. I'm pretty sure that in my FOWLR plan, I want to have roughly 10x tank turnover going through the sump per hour, and will be including a pair of powerheads in the tank for more movement.

I also have to lower the holes, because my overflow (an inky) has a top guard, that sits below the top of the box about 1/4-1/2". The emergency upturn makes that critter guard not sit flush. So I'm thinking about knocking the holes down 5/8 - 3/4" to accomodate for that guard.
 
Hello all,

This is my version of the BA, and the Herbie combined;

I call it,

"The Todd"

Works like this:
I had bought a 180 with 2 x holes for a 1.5 I.D. Bulkhead already horizontal in a top corner.

I added the C2C overflow myself to the upper back out of glass.

This is silent, has it's own 'emergency' overflow- if/when the water rises in the overflow
the tip of the black hose goes under water turning the Secondary whole in to a full siphon
1.5" drop 9.5ft to my sump beneath.
Normally, this line just trickles down to the sump- taking up the slight extra while the 'primary' line with the gate valve- stays at full siphon.
No matter what the 'primary' line is running- the secondary will always flow- unobstructed down to the sump.
The 'primary' runs at full siphon by restricting the flow to closely almost match the flow of the RP. The rest going down the secondary which also pulls a bit of air into the secondary thru the black tube. Again, if/when the water level rises in the C2C, the black hose goes underwater and turn the 'secondary' into a Full siphon, quickly emptying the C2C.- I"ve of course tested this numerous times by shutting off the 'primary', and it works great, and is silent.
The outer Sanitry 90 is a 1.5" I.D. Fernco Fitting- before you bash it, I even talked to the lead engineer at Fernco- It's Reef Safe!

The Rubber sanitery 90's/3-way also takes all the pressure off the glass/bulkhead!- I know- Damn brilliant idea! Again- others used them too with no problems.



This is my 180


Again,
I did it this way for two main reasons:
1. The 180 I picked up like new already had the 2 x 1.5 I.D. bulkheads drilled in it
2. After reading and getting feedback from others who did it like this- I knew it worked.
 
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so, working on my template, it dawned on me that where I had anticipated drilling holes wouldn't work with the emergency drain.

I am attaching the overflow that I have. The grid on top is 2 light diffusers bonded together making 1/4" holes to keep critters out. that goes down 1/2" and sits flush on the top. The downturn elbows are no problem, the problem is the emergency. If I lower the hole 1/2", the elbow butts up against the guard. I can sand down the elbow, or lower the hole by 1/8" off the downturns (I could actually lower them 1/8" as well and still have 3/4" from the bottom of the elbow to the overflow bottom)..

Another option is to grind down the guard where the emergency will be, and have the center line of the holes at 2.25"

or

remove the guard all together.

Overflow.jpg~original


Overflow-Top.jpg~original
 
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Uncleof6,

I have managed to read approximately 215 pages after the split (255 tota) of the thread.

I'm planning on running this just as bean has on post 1, but I wanted to get your opinion on something.

Am I ok using 1" bulkheads with 1.5" PVC piping as originally designed with an eheim 5000 pump on a 110 gallon tank (40 gallon sump)? Or would I be better off bumping up to 1.5" bulkheads?

I have the 1.75" diamond bit, I have not ordered the bulkheads as of yet.

If I understand correctly, the 1" bulkhead with 1.5" piping can get to 2000 gph without breaking a sweat. I'm pretty sure that in my FOWLR plan, I want to have roughly 10x tank turnover going through the sump per hour, and will be including a pair of powerheads in the tank for more movement.

I also have to lower the holes, because my overflow (an inky) has a top guard, that sits below the top of the box about 1/4-1/2". The emergency upturn makes that critter guard not sit flush. So I'm thinking about knocking the holes down 5/8 - 3/4" to accomodate for that guard.

How much you can flow through a 1" bulkhead depends on the length of the drop. @ 24" with 1.5" pipe, that is going to max out around 1500gph, (max theoretical of 1669gph) and will not get close to 2000gph. A longer drop will raise the bar, so don't go counting chickens before the egg hatches. :)
 
Hello all,

This is my version of the BA, and the Herbie combined;

I call it,

"The Todd"

Works like this:
I had bought a 180 with 2 x holes for a 1.5 I.D. Bulkhead already horizontal in a top corner.

I added the C2C overflow myself to the upper back out of glass.

This is silent, has it's own 'emergency' overflow- if/when the water rises in the overflow
the tip of the black hose goes under water turning the Secondary whole in to a full siphon
1.5" drop 9.5ft to my sump beneath.
Normally, this line just trickles down to the sump- taking up the slight extra while the 'primary' line with the gate valve- stays at full siphon.
No matter what the 'primary' line is running- the secondary will always flow- unobstructed down to the sump.
The 'primary' runs at full siphon by restricting the flow to closely almost match the flow of the RP. The rest going down the secondary which also pulls a bit of air into the secondary thru the black tube. Again, if/when the water level rises in the C2C, the black hose goes underwater and turn the 'secondary' into a Full siphon, quickly emptying the C2C.- I"ve of course tested this numerous times by shutting off the 'primary', and it works great, and is silent.
The outer Sanitry 90 is a 1.5" I.D. Fernco Fitting- before you bash it, I even talked to the lead engineer at Fernco- It's Reef Safe!

The Rubber sanitery 90's/3-way also takes all the pressure off the glass/bulkhead!- I know- Damn brilliant idea! Again- others used them too with no problems.



This is my 180


Again,
I did it this way for two main reasons:
1. The 180 I picked up like new already had the 2 x 1.5 I.D. bulkheads drilled in it
2. After reading and getting feedback from others who did it like this- I knew it worked.

There are only two siphon systems to date: BeanAnimal's three pipe system, and the standard 2-pipe system of which the 'Herbie' is a modification, to fit into a corner overflow. Both of the latter, consist of a siphon and a DRY emergency.

This system does not qualify as a BeanAnimal drain system. What it acutally is, is a mis-implemented 2-pipe siphon system, that does not qualify as a Herbie modification either. It may be silent, but there is no failsafety. The fail safety being short circuited by using an open channel rather than a dry emergency. Others doing their drains this way, are not running safe failsafe systems either. We can argue the statistical probabilities all day long, but it only takes once, to make a believer of someone ...once it happens though, it is too late to learn...

For a BeanAnimal system, all three pipes MUST be used. For a herbie, (2-pipe system) two pipes are used, however, there is no air vent to turn the second pipe to a siphon, as there is never any flow in the second pipe, unless the main siphon plugs up.

Herbie is a very loosely defined, wrought with mis-information and mis-application, however, Bean's systems is well documented, and there are no variations to Bean's system, nor can it be 'hybrid crossed' with a herbie, as all three pipes must be used.

The effort in this thread is to keep the information accurate, and consistent, so Bean's system does not turn into the mess the Herbie information has...
 
There are only two siphon systems to date: BeanAnimal's three pipe system, and the standard 2-pipe system of which the 'Herbie' is a modification, to fit into a corner overflow. Both of the latter, consist of a siphon and a DRY emergency.

This system does not qualify as a BeanAnimal drain system. What it acutally is, is a mis-implemented 2-pipe siphon system, that does not qualify as a Herbie modification either. It may be silent, but there is no failsafety. The fail safety being short circuited by using an open channel rather than a dry emergency. Others doing their drains this way, are not running safe failsafe systems either. We can argue the statistical probabilities all day long, but it only takes once, to make a believer of someone ...once it happens though, it is too late to learn...

For a BeanAnimal system, all three pipes MUST be used. For a herbie, (2-pipe system) two pipes are used, however, there is no air vent to turn the second pipe to a siphon, as there is never any flow in the second pipe, unless the main siphon plugs up.

Herbie is a very loosely defined, wrought with mis-information and mis-application, however, Bean's systems is well documented, and there are no variations to Bean's system, nor can it be 'hybrid crossed' with a herbie, as all three pipes must be used.

The effort in this thread is to keep the information accurate, and consistent, so Bean's system does not turn into the mess the Herbie information has...

I hear ya, however I too find some misinformation with your post.
First, This system is neither, it is 'The Todd'.

In the BA, you have a full siphon, and the secondary takes up some of the extra to keep the primary running on siphon without sucking the overflow dry and sucking air- right? If I"m not mistaken- this secondary in fact has a airline the is used as mine is (that's where I got the idea), and turns the secondary into an unobstucted (no gat vavle) flow to the sump under siphon when the air tube end also gets underwater.
This is 'The Todd' system.
The BA foes further-usually using smaller diameter drains so that the 3rd line COULD be used- when H*LL freezes over.

On 'The Todd'- It uses large diameter lines, and when you completely shut down the primary- the secondary takes all the flow. And IF the overflow rises while air is being displaced in the downtruned elbows (to keep it silent)- the overflow rises and the end of the airline goes underwater it quickly turn it into a full 1.5" unobstructed (no gate valve) drain and at a 9.5' drop, that probably flow close to 2000/hr +.
I've shut the primary many times/tests- the secondary works as stated and quickly drains the overflow.
Nothing wrong with a 3rd 'redundant' emergency drain however.
If itever sees water- it's because the secondary eith the air tube isn't adequate enough for the given flow.

* When I posted about my new tank and needing to drill a third hole, a few people quickly PM'd me about only using the 2 large diameter holes I already had- and glad I did it this way too.

*If the Herbie uses a siphon and a 'dry' secondary- how would one keep from sucking air in the primary? Surely the secondary takes some water to keep the primary running on siphon. Otherwise you'd be readjusting your gate vallve all the time, and it would be a PITA.

And I understand this thread is all about the BA, 3 drain system.
I learned a lot form this, and will return your receivers back to their normal broadcasting, and I'll start my own thread on the forum perhaps on it.

I was merely showing my alternative- 'The Todd' overfow.
 
I hear ya, however I too find some misinformation with your post.
First, This system is neither, it is 'The Todd'.

Please point out the "mis-information" in my post...

In the BA, you have a full siphon, and the secondary takes up some of the extra to keep the primary running on siphon without sucking the overflow dry and sucking air- right?

Wrong. The open channel (what you call "the secondary") is a buffer. It provides a "self adjustment" feature to the system. Because it is operating in open channel mode (not restricted, not siphon) the flow rate can rise and fall with changing flow rates in the system overall. Such changes can be due to several conditions including variations in the return pumps output, or simply a change in barometric pressure. The siphon line cannot handle an increase in flow rate, because it is restricted by a valve, therefore it does not dynamically adjust. The two pipe system, and the Herbie modification suffer from this problem and require periodic adjustment to compensate because these two systems are not self adjusting.

If flow through the system decreases, flow will decrease in the open channel; if the flow rate decreases sufficiently, water will stop flowing in the open channel, and further reduction would result in a lower water level in the overflow, and the siphon may suck air. The open channel cannot prevent this, and in your modification, the open channel will not prevent that either.

If I"m not mistaken- this secondary in fact has a airline the is used as mine is (that's where I got the idea), and turns the secondary into an unobstucted (no gat vavle) flow to the sump under siphon when the air tube end also gets underwater.
It does have an air line that trips the open channel to siphon mode, under certain circumstances.

This is 'The Todd' system.
The BA foes further-usually using smaller diameter drains so that the 3rd line COULD be used- when H*LL freezes over.
It is actually quite the opposite. The BA does not go further, it is the standard, "The Todd" stops short of incorporating one of the important safety features of the drain system. This safety feature is actually, the main safety backup for the system: the dry emergency; the "open channel" tripping, is the last line of defense failsafe. The failsafe (the air vent line) has only one failure mode: plugging up, which results in making the system safer, rather than creating a flood. The definition of a failsafe.

On 'The Todd'- It uses large diameter lines, and when you completely shut down the primary- the secondary takes all the flow. And IF the overflow rises while air is being displaced in the downtruned elbows (to keep it silent)- the overflow rises and the end of the airline goes underwater it quickly turn it into a full 1.5" unobstructed (no gate valve) drain and at a 9.5' drop, that probably flow close to 2000/hr +.
I've shut the primary many times/tests- the secondary works as stated and quickly drains the overflow.
A 1.5" bulkhead with a 9.5' drop will have the capability of flowing ~ 8000gph, not accounting for friction losses. This flow will exceed the resonable limits for a gravity drain, 1.5" pipe size (18f/s.) The friction losses would be extreme, the pressure losses would be extreme, and it would most likely water hammer, creating a great deal of noise and possible plumbing damage. 3" pipe would be a reasonable pipe size for this sort of flow... 8400 gph limit @ 6f/s.

A 1" bulkhead with a 9.5' drop, has a flow capacity of around 3600gph, but again, this exceeds the reasonable limits for 1" pipe of 960 gph. (6f/s) However, with 1.5" pipe, this reasonable limit goes up to 2100gph. (6f/s) This system could be pushed into the 3000gph range, with minimal pressure losses, and minimal noise.

As designed, Bean's system uses 1" bulkheads, and 1.5" pipe. This makes for a very wide bandwidth (depending on the length of the drop) from a few hundred gph up to ~2000gph (assuming a normal drop of 24 - 36",) which is more than adequate to accomodate 90% of ALL hobby systems, including your 9.5' drop and 2000gph (if you actually have that flowing up to the tank.) What other significance you are placing on the bulkhead/pipe size, is unclear...

Nothing wrong with a 3rd 'redundant' emergency drain however.
If itever sees water- it's because the secondary eith the air tube isn't adequate enough for the given flow.

* When I posted about my new tank and needing to drill a third hole, a few people quickly PM'd me about only using the 2 large diameter holes I already had- and glad I did it this way too.
Folks are afraid of drilling additonal holes, or simply do not wish to make the effort, not that there is anything advantageous to using two holes rather than three. It is done via pm, because posting in open forum will draw comments involving safety concerns. It is called bad information/mis-informaton/ based on a misunderstanding of how the BA system works, or merely personal opinion.

*If the Herbie uses a siphon and a 'dry' secondary- how would one keep from sucking air in the primary? Surely the secondary takes some water to keep the primary running on siphon. Otherwise you'd be readjusting your gate vallve all the time, and it would be a PITA.
If it uses the siphon and dry emergency backup, it is implemented the right way. Everything else is improper implementation. The fluctuations are not quite that frequent, unless the pump is showing early signs of failure, or the barometric pressure changes every 5 minutes... and if they are, some other implementation error was made. Generally, unless pump failure is involved, the fluctuations are not large enough in magnitude to cause the siphon to suck air. Nonetheless, the Herbie modification , or two pipe system, is not 100% stable, and needs periodic adjustment. This is what gave rise to Bean's system, however, in the "update" the backup and failsafe features were maintained and improved. The admonishment: All three pipes must be used, is clear, to the point: black and white—no gray area.

And I understand this thread is all about the BA, 3 drain system.
I learned a lot form this, and will return your receivers back to their normal broadcasting, and I'll start my own thread on the forum perhaps on it.
Unfortunately, there was a failure to understand the basic operation of the BA system.

I was merely showing my alternative- 'The Todd' overfow.
Everyone, that posts in favor of the so called 'modified BA', or self adjusting Herbie, and variations of the same such as "The Todd," that include a trickle of flow through the DRY emergency, share the same basic misunderstanding of how the BA system actually works, and why it is designed as it is. They all assume the DRY emergency is a "redundant" back up. This shows that the information is all coming from the same source, the author of which does not understand how the BA system works, and like most, probably never read the first page of this thread or Bean's article on his website, that explicitly explains how this system works. Nor have they read the part of Herbie's thread that states that a DRY emergency is an essential part of a safe siphon drain system.

To wit: In Bean's system, the DRY emergency is the MAIN emergency backup subsystem. A pipe with water flow (irregardless of how much) is a plug risk; a DRY pipe is not a plug risk. When the main siphon plugs, and during startup, the DRY emergency will take the flow. This happens because the open channel cannot trip to siphon due to the placement of the air vent line (higher than the inlet to the dry emergency.) If this vent line is placed lower than the inlet to the DRY emergency, the system will not operate properly: the main siphon will not fully start (can't purge the air) as the open channel takes most of the flow. If both the siphon, and DRY emergency become occluded, the water level rises to cover the air vent inlet, and the open channel trips to siphon mode. The open channel is every bit as much of a plug risk as the main siphon, which is why the DRY emergency is the main emergency backup.

The Todd: This system has no emergency backup. If both the siphon and open channel plug, the water goes all over the floor. The Todd (or any variation thereof) is not exempt from the plug risk involved with water flow in pipes. An added air vent line will not mitigate that risk. As I said before, we can argue the statistical probability of failure all day long, but that is irrelevant. The fact is two pipes can plug, at the same time. It can happen, and it has happened. Otherwise none of us, that do know how these systems work, would have a concern over it.

The Todd: This system could also present the "air vent line too low" startup issue just the same as the BA system. Since there is no DRY emergency to mitigate the water level, the air vent line inlet can be submerged easily as startup, tripping the open channel to siphon, before the main siphon purges air. This will cause the main siphon to not fully start. This is a very common complaint throughout this thread, with systems that have not been implemented properly.

The Todd: Because it has no DRY emergency, both pipes have water in them, the system has no failsafe, redundant or otherwise.

There are many, many ways to implement a drain system. Probably as many as there are hobbyists to implement them. To date, only a few can be considered safe in terms of the long standing guideline: "Never run a siphon without a dry emergency backup." Many folks choose to ignore that guidline, and it is a personal choice. Many encourage others to ignore that guideline as well, to dimiss the risks involved—that should be considered bad advice. It is some else's system; some one else has to bear the cost of a flood. It is irresponsible. In the end, it only creates confusion within a topic that is complex to begin with. Evidenced by the number of folks that don't understand how these systems work.

Eventually, someone will come up with a better mousetrap than the BA, albeit they will have to get up pretty early in the morning to get a headstart. ;) However, for such a system to gain anything over the BA or Herbie's corner overflow modification of a two pipe system, it will have to incorporate the same level (if not more) of backup and failsafe features. Such a system does not yet exist.
 
Dude,
Drop it down a notch.
Believe it or not, there are people here, on this forum and thread, that do in fact have high IQ's.

I read your whole reply. Wow, talk about redundancy.
And btw, over a year ago, yes I read the first OP of the BA thread.

I will cut and paste this part, which is where you infact showed you understood how the system I use, 'The Todd' works.


Quote:
In the BA, you have a full siphon, and the secondary takes up some of the extra to keep the primary running on siphon without sucking the overflow dry and sucking air- right?
Wrong. The open channel (what you call "the secondary") is a buffer. It provides a "self adjustment" feature to the system. Because it is operating in open channel mode (not restricted, not siphon) the flow rate can rise and fall with changing flow rates in the system overall. Such changes can be due to several conditions including variations in the return pumps output, or simply a change in barometric pressure.
That's what I said, about the secondary line- OK your/his 'open channel'

The siphon line cannot handle an increase in flow rate, because it is restricted by a valve, therefore it does not dynamically adjust. The two pipe system, and the Herbie modification suffer from this problem and require periodic adjustment to compensate because these two systems are not self adjusting. You just said yourself that it dynamically adjusts, and now suddenly it's not self adjusting? Do you live near Milwaukee? Would you like to come see it work? I can change the output of my retrun pump easily- it's a DC pump with a controller.

If flow through the system decreases, flow will decrease in the open channel; if the flow rate decreases sufficiently, water will stop flowing in the open channel, and further reduction would result in a lower water level in the overflow, and the siphon may suck air. The open channel cannot prevent this, and in your modification, the open channel will not prevent that either.
Nor does it need to. ??

OK, so the 'buffer' the secondary channel; IS WHAT MAKES IT Self Adjusting.
I virtually never 'readjust' my siphon line valve. Still not sure where you got that.


I think you read my post, where I said other people where using a similar system and having no floods. I elected not to drill a third hole, when I had evidence that 2 would work for me as they do.

I never said the 3rd, failsafe hole wasn't a good idea. If fact, if I had drilled my tank, I would have put 3 holes in and done it that way.
And btw, if two drains could plug, why couldn't all three drains plug then?
The siphon drain, has a restriction, I could see maybe that one could plug. But the unobstructed one? That's a stretch- and if it could plug- then why couldn't the 3rd one also plug?

I incorporate BA's 2nd and 3rd line, into a 2nd line.
Remember- by itself the 2nd line will handle all the flow by itself.
And, MY best guestimate based on previous flow measurements, current barometric pressures, and or course the current exact direction of magnetic north- I'm flowing right about 750gph thru my sump and returns.

 
Dude,
Drop it down a notch.
I am going to kindly ask you to do the same.

This purpose of this thread is to support the overflow described on page one and I would prefer that the conversation be kept to that topic. With that said, you appear to be looking for comment...

As for "The Todd": You have a "herbie" with a flooded second pipe. Adding my airline fail-safe does not change the functionality, and in-fact, the classic "open top" herbie standpipe will siphon when it becomes covered by water in an emergency. This very subject was the topic of much debate in the original thread.

With regard to adding the fail-safe airline to the standpipe: My advice has always been to use the airline fail-safe on ANY durso or herbie standpipe. Of course (as mentioned) the open top herbie does not need it and likewise the stockman does not, as if they become covered with water, then the air is by nature blocked and the pipe siphons.

The BA foes further-usually using smaller diameter drains so that the 3rd line COULD be used- when H*LL freezes over.
In addition to being a much needed fail-safe feature and allowing the system to use reasonable sized standpipes to accommodate extremely high flows (silently and safely), many users will find that the 3rd standpipe is active during system startup while the siphon purges air.


I think you read my post, where I said other people where using a similar system and having no floods. I elected not to drill a third hole, when I had evidence that 2 would work for me as they do.
People use u-tubes and single bulkheads and a dozen other standpipes styles and some never have floods either. That does not make those systems safe, silent, reliable or scalable, it just means that folks use them.


The idea here was to publish a design that was extremely fail-safe, one-size fits all and silent under an extremely broad range of flow rates.

As has been stated numerous times, given a specific environment (flow rate, head height, etc.) it may be possible to engineer a more efficient or elegant design that achieves a safe and silent system.

And btw, if two drains could plug, why couldn't all three drains plug then?
The siphon drain, has a restriction, I could see maybe that one could plug. But the unobstructed one? That's a stretch- and if it could plug- then why couldn't the 3rd one also plug?
It simply comes down to probability vs complexity, etc. The addition of the 3rd standpipe, in conjunction with the other fail-safes, offers a high degree of safety with little added complexity. As mentioned above the 3rd standpipe adds more than safety, it increases the overall flow capacity and ability for the system to start under high flow. Furthermore, partial blockages are common. As mentioned in the design criteria, I had a flood where TWO of my "durso" standpipes had partial blockages. I have since on several occasions had the emergency standpipe kick in due to snails blocking enough of the siphon and open channel to cause a problem. On another occasion I had a dead foxface go over the falls get stuck under the open channel. I came home from a two day trip with the emergency gurgling.


With that, and as I mentioned above, this thread is for support of the standpipe system described on the opening pages and I would prefer it to stay that way. Thanks for your understanding!

Bean
 
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With "advanced" system design, we try to raise the bar a bit above junk silicone such as Silicone I. Dow Corning 735, or 999A is a cut way above Silicone I, up to and including the best you can use which is Momentive RTV100 series or SCS1200 series silicones. No one in the "pro" side of things, even for overflows, sump baffles or anything else, uses Silicone I.

When searching for the best sealant for construction of an aquarium, is it a good reference point to look for the highest 'Ultimate Tensile Strenght' in the data sheets ? And by the same time look for the highest 'Peel Strenght' and then look for the best combination of those two values ? Or are there other properties that have to be taken into account ?

I found these values referenced by method : ASTM D412 and ASTM C794 :
-Momentive SCS1200 : tensile strenght 480psi, peel strenght 61ppi
-Momentive RVT 100 : tensile strenght 400psi, peel strenght 40 (method ??)
-Dow Corning 995 : tensile strenght 350psi, peel strenght 40ppi
-Dow Corning 999 : tensile strenght 325psi, peel strenght 20ppi

Am I correct when concluding : look no further then buying SCS1200, or am I overlooking something ?

Thanks in advance for your answer,

greetings,
Peter
 
This is a pic of my 90/reducer bushing/BH:

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This is my design, tried to get it close to scale, sorry I don't know the fancy programs. The 90 is not bang on scale. Hopefully it is completely labelled to answer my questions. Any problems you see????

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OK, I really need to start drilling holes!!! I've read countless pages of the thread and re-read the 1st 30 this morning. At times it seems to all flow into one deep pit between my ears, I have several questions and appreciate answers.

Set-up: 55g 48" tank, I've made a 17g sump. Bean Animal system, 1" bulkheads into 1 1/2" plumbing, only modification I see is to only use 1 gate valve, on the full siphon. Planning on ~ 18" wide internal glass box, to the point of the centre brace edge.

1) I don't understand the depth of the water in the box. I read I want it ~ 1" below top of weir, and that it is adjustable and is determined by how much I close the full siphon gate valve? Does the targeted box water height become part of the overall calculations or will it be what is it once it is up and running?

2) Space required between front edge of 90's and the front of box (the weir)? 1/4", 1/2"?

3) Space required between bottom of 90's and bottom of box? Don't plan on cutting slots in it, seems like it isn't necessary. I read 1/4" is enough to allow water to flow into the standpipe and gives enough for the 90 to rotate in the event of removal?

4) I am using regular 1 1/4 90's with a reducer bushing to connect to the 1" bulkheads. Can I cut back the "slip" part of the 90's to get the 90 closer to the rear wall of the tank, thus making my box smaller front to back? I would also cut back the same distance with the reducer. How much depth is required for glue to prevent air entering the system? (I am comfortable with power tools and understand risks in cutting fittings)

5) Can I cut back the bottom of the 90 in the box to make the box less tall or does that increase likelihood of sucking water and creating noise?

6) Can I cut back the dry end of the bulkhead to save space behind the tank? My BH's have nubs 1/2 down them to stop the pipes from either side going too far (BH's are slipxslip). The dry end is 1 1/8" deep. How much needed to properly glue to prevent leaks and/or air entering?

7) Do I need both primer and cement to glue this all together? I thought only glue, or is that with ABS? And this same cement will glue white PVC to my black bulkheads? Guy sold me Uni-weld clear primer and Weld-on 705 PVC cement and Ipex 04 general purpose PVC cement (both clear). I won't mix cements, the smaller cans were on a huge sale so got 2 smaller ones rather than 1 larger one)

8) Unclear about my upturned 90 emergency pipe. What height is it supposed to be at? Will my current design it will be quite close to the top of the tank so I would cut it back. Does it need to be somewhere w.r.t. the top of the weir or just below the tank overflow part?

Thanks tons, I'm excited to get this going, and I appreciate your time in answering. :hmm5:
 
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Am I correct when concluding : look no further then buying SCS1200, or am I overlooking something ?

I recently asked a professional custom tank builder what he uses and he said he only uses GE SCS1200 series. He built my 8' 300g tank. He explained to me about the tensile strength differing between various silicones and that they are definitely not created equal! (even though our local hobbyists all buy the 2 pack of generic silicone for $10)
 
When searching for the best sealant for construction of an aquarium, is it a good reference point to look for the highest 'Ultimate Tensile Strenght' in the data sheets ? And by the same time look for the highest 'Peel Strenght' and then look for the best combination of those two values ? Or are there other properties that have to be taken into account ?

I found these values referenced by method : ASTM D412 and ASTM C794 :
-Momentive SCS1200 : tensile strenght 480psi, peel strenght 61ppi
-Momentive RVT 100 : tensile strenght 400psi, peel strenght 40 (method ??)
-Dow Corning 995 : tensile strenght 350psi, peel strenght 40ppi
-Dow Corning 999 : tensile strenght 325psi, peel strenght 20ppi

Am I correct when concluding : look no further then buying SCS1200, or am I overlooking something ?

Thanks in advance for your answer,

greetings,
Peter

Off topic for this thread, but since you asked briefly:

Momentive RTV100 series is the most commonly used with professional builders. It has less of a tendancy to bubble up, than the SCS1200 does.
Other than that, you nailed the top two dead on.

The RTV100 is 40lbs/in.
 
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This is a pic of my 90/reducer bushing/BH:


Did not read your proposed flow rate but your box us rather shallow at least in the somewhat scaled drawing above...

In context to that proposed flow, 1/4" clearance may be cutting it close. It will prevent most snails from wedging underneath but it could also be a flow limiter...

Assuming a 1.25" elbow the opening is going to be 1.66"

The perimeter of a 1.66" circle is about 5.25" inches and that times .25" is about 1.3"

Stay with me....

The 1" bulkhead will have a cross sectional area of about .8" The narrow opening is going to generate a good bit of flow restriction that will become more turbulent as flow rate increases. At high flow the turbulence will begin to be the limiter to flow, not the bulkhead or the valve.

If you plan on pushing the limits of the overflow, then I would go with 3/8 of an inch. If you plan to run 700 to 1000 GPH then 1/4 will be fine.
 
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Did not read your proposed flow rate but your box us rather shallow at least in the somewhat scaled drawing above...

In context to that proposed flow, 1/4" clearance may be cutting it close. It will prevent most snails from wedging underneath but it could also be a flow limiter...

Assuming a 1.25" elbow the opening is going to be 1.66"

The perimeter of a 1.66" circle is about 5.25" inches and that times .25" is about 1.3"

Stay with me....

The 1" bulkhead will have a cross sectional area of about .8" The narrow opening is going to generate a good bit of flow restriction that will become more turbulent as flow rate increases. At high flow the turbulence will begin to be the limiter to flow, not the bulkhead or the valve.

If you plan on pushing the limits of the overflow, then I would go with 3/8 of an inch. If you plan to run 700 to 1000 GPH then 1/4 will be fine.

I didn't post my flow rate, maybe in an earlier comment but who can remember what happened even 5 min. ago?! :wave:

My pump for this 55g tank will be a Sicce Syncra 3.0 and at my max head I should be approximately at 600gph from the chart. I'm going to step up the 3/4" outlet to 1" right at the pump and maintain it to a single 1" return at the tank.

I plan on dry fitting the 1 1/4" 90 and simply rotating it to determine the highest point of the box floor. If that leaves a 1/4" space or more when the 90 is back in position sounds like I'm good to go. I will plumb 1st, then determine the floor second.

Any additional insight to my other questions? Thanks.
 
Off topic for this thread, but since you asked briefly:

Momentive RTV100 series is the most commonly used with professional builders. It has less of a tendancy to bubble up, than the SCS1200 does.
Other than that, you nailed the top two dead on.

The RTV100 is 40lbs/in.

Thank you for the confirmation !
 
Just following up from a previous post with some of the questions I still have. Anyone provide some insight? Thanks in advance.
This is a pic of my 90/reducer bushing/BH:

.

.
2) Space required between front edge of 90's and the front of box (the weir)? 1/4", 1/2"?

4) I am using regular 1 1/4 90's with a reducer bushing to connect to the 1" bulkheads. Can I cut back the "slip" part of the 90's to get the 90 closer to the rear wall of the tank, thus making my box smaller front to back? I would also cut back the same distance with the reducer. How much depth is required for glue to prevent air entering the system? (I am comfortable with power tools and understand risks in cutting fittings)

5) Can I cut back the bottom of the 90 in the box to make the box less tall or does that increase likelihood of sucking water and creating noise?

6) Can I cut back the dry end of the bulkhead to save space behind the tank? My BH's have nubs 1/2 down them to stop the pipes from either side going too far (BH's are slipxslip). The dry end is 1 1/8" deep. How much needed to properly glue to prevent leaks and/or air entering?

7) Do I need both primer and cement to glue this all together? I thought only glue, or is that with ABS? And this same cement will glue white PVC to my black bulkheads? Guy sold me Uni-weld clear primer and Weld-on 705 PVC cement and Ipex 04 general purpose PVC cement (both clear). I won't mix cements, the smaller cans were on a huge sale so got 2 smaller ones rather than 1 larger one)

8) Unclear about my upturned 90 emergency pipe. What height is it supposed to be at? Will my current design it will be quite close to the top of the tank so I would cut it back. Does it need to be somewhere w.r.t. the top of the weir or just below the tank overflow part?
 
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