Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[pmoneyt]

here is a pic let me know what i can do to get this working. should i reduce the 1.5" pipe to 1" so they will all be the same.

 

[pmoneyt]

yeah i was having pic trouble

 

[uncleof6]

Ok. The pipes being that close together will not affect the operation at all. The emergency is 1.5" it looks like and the other two reduce to 1" then back up to 1.5". How well this will work for you depends on the flow rate you are going to use. If you consider the full siphon flow rate, for 1" it is ~960 gph (depends on several things) at 1.5" it would be ~2100 gph + (from chart not calculated) The restriction is going to affect the capacity of the full siphon, and the open channel, how much I don't want to calculate out. The open channel is a bit of a different story. The restriction will cause some turbulence in the line, and will probably make for some noise, and bubbles. This is an assumption on my part, as i have not tried this configuration (the reduction.) As far as the operation goes, it will work--as both the full siphon and the open channel have the same "full siphon" capacity, and the emergency has a higher capacity. But I suspect the open channel is going to give you some problems. I could be wrong.

Jim

 

[RicoJ]

Where are you guys getting all your PVC parts? They don't seem to be readily available in the sizes needed at the local hardware stores.

 

[pmoneyt]

rico i got mine at lowes and homedepot but if u need to order it go to savko.com or flexpvc.com

 

[BeanAnimal]

The setup should work ok... my biggest concern is the restriction in the union/adaptor area.

As for flow through the siphon: 960GPH would be the flow thropugh the open bulkhead with about 7" of head above it. You appear to have about 7" above it and a foot or so below it. The effective head should be able to siphon should be well over 1200 GPH (without doing the math)

While you have the opportunity, I would lower the siphon intake by 1/2" - 1" or so. This will ensure that it kicks in before the open channel.

 

[pmoneyt]

Bean i was planning to lower all of the pipes and remove the union adaptors. i was thinking of just using a 1' to 1.5" adaptor to reduce the flow restrictions.

is it better to just get union ball valves?

 

[RicoJ]

Are these the elbows that I should be getting? I could find a 1"skip x 1.25" PVC Street Elbows.

http://www.dtpetsupplies.com/catalo...gree-Elbow-Socket-Spears-schedule-40-fitting/

 

[RicoJ]

I think I found all the parts for this project with the exception of the 1.5" PVC pipe, 1" PVC pipe and the sanitary tee's.

Check it out:

Bulkheads:
http://www.dtpetsupplies.com/catalo...ead-black-Requires-a-1-34-inch-diameter-hole/

1 1/2 inch Slip True Union Ball Valve sch. 40
http://www.dtpetsupplies.com/catalo.../1-12-inch-Slip-True-Union-Ball-Valve-sch-40/

1-1/2 inch Cap FPT Spears schedule 40 fitting
http://www.dtpetsupplies.com/catalo...1-12-inch-Cap-FPT-Spears-schedule-40-fitting/

1-1/2 inch by 1 inch Reducer Bushing Spiggot by Socket Spears schedule 40 PVC fitting
http://www.dtpetsupplies.com/catalo...got-by-Socket-Spears-schedule-40-PVC-fitting/

1-1/2 inch Male Adapter MPT x Soc Spears schedule 40 fitting
http://www.dtpetsupplies.com/catalo...Adapter-MPT-x-Soc-Spears-schedule-40-fitting/

1-1/2 inch x 1 inch Reducing 90 degree Elbow Socket Spears schedule 40 fitting (I think these are the right ones)
http://www.dtpetsupplies.com/catalo...gree-Elbow-Socket-Spears-schedule-40-fitting/


I think I got everything.. Let me know if I made any mistakes.

 

[jb61264]

just in case you don't know (and this may not even apply in your case)...they don't make a "sanitary" tee in 1"...trust me I looked everywhere since my overflow is 1" everywhere I just used regular 1" tees and they work perfectly

 

[RicoJ]

Thanks JB, the sanitary tees are hard to find period. I wasn't lookiing for 1" I was looking for 1.5" as the original design calls for it, but if 1.5" regular tee works just as well I may have to go that route. Not sure why sanitary tees are called for when regular tees will work.

 

[uncleof6]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15487374#post15487374 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RicoJ
Thanks JB, the sanitary tees are hard to find period. I wasn't lookiing for 1" I was looking for 1.5" as the original design calls for it, but if 1.5" regular tee works just as well I may have to go that route. Not sure why sanitary tees are called for when regular tees will work.

1.5" sanitary tees........ less turbulence because of the gentler sweep.

https://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(w4jmo3340ydxyovbtim4ds45)/productDetails.aspx?SKU=42678

 

[RicoJ]

Hey guys I just bought the sanitary tees from Lowes, I was shocked when I found them there.

I also found a PVC clean out adapter. See picture to see what I mean.

Would this be OK to use instead of adding a 1.5" pvc pipe, a 1/5" NPTx1.5" Slip PVC adapter and a 1.5" threaded PVC cap on top of the sanitary tee?

 

[RicoJ]

The only reason why I am thinking that this clean out adapter might not work is because the column above the sanitary tee might not be high enough and I think that this column must be higher than the aquarium surface water. I could be wrong.

BeanAnimal?

 

[jb61264]

I would have preferred sanitary tee's for the reason that uncleof6 states, however, the regular tee is working perfectly in my setup...I've had several fellow reefkeepers come over and check my setup out and they can't believe how silent it is...not even a gurgle IMO, what you have laid out in your pictures above will work just fine...in fact, for your open channel standpipe, that square top on the endcaps might be easier to drill than a regular cap which has some curvature to it.

 

[aterese]

Is it possible to redesign this to operate internal to the tank.

I picture a corner box that hides the pipes going down and the bulkheads being at the base, with the valves being straight underneath.

Is it possible, as I am not having any external plumbing in my new tank ?

 

[teesquare]

Sure. Works the same way. But one reason most want it out of the tank, is that it takes up a considerable amount of tank space. Especially if you are goin thru the tank floor.
If you are thinking about a "corner" overflow - you will not get the benefit of the surface skimming that a full length, or full width overflow will produce.
T

 

[BackSpin]

Question I have a RR tank with built in overflow I have tried many methods and was pretty happy with a durso pipe but after adding a gate valve and pulling out pipe letting overflow box go full siphon it was dead silent, My question to all is tank is drilled with two 1" drains and two .75" returns I am using a 30" piece of 1 1/4" pipe 1" below top of tank for safty overflow and has run for days with no problems am I better off with no pipe on main drain so trash can go into overflow and fall to bottom to drain out bulkhead water level in box is about 3" below teeth and sounds good would pipe be better to skim surface or not.??

 

[troylee]

well the purpose of the box is to skim the surface water...so your overflow box is full of nasty surface water, where the drains pick it up from regardless....im confused what you mean by pulling out the pipe and letting the box go full siphon???

 

[BackSpin]

What I am doing is letting my overflow fill up to about 3" below teeth about 26" of water then turn on pumps and open drain valve so my overflow box is flooded just like a if a stock pipe where used except water is draining from bottom bulkhead in bottom of tank, never possible without adding gate valve on drainline.. the overflow itself shoud skim tank surface I am just wanting to know what you think is better inside the overflow box.