Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15419130#post15419130 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by uncleof6
Weir (overflow) ~ 1" down from the top of the tank. Holes at least 1 hole diameter to the edge of the hole, from the edge of the glass. You have to do some measuring, and math, to figure out exactly where the holes will be, and center the hole according to where you want the elbow in relation to the floor of the overflow. On a rimless, you may be happier with an external overflow, with the "weir" cut into the back panel, and the overflow "box" siliconed to the back of the tank. Plumbing out the bottom of the overflow.

Jim
+1 on doing an external overflow on a rimless aquarium. I think you would enjoy the aesthetics of a "rimless" system much more
 
Hello all. I've been following the thread for a while. I'm going adopt the bean (or modified herbie) design, but I wanted to get some opinions and answers:

First, this will be for a 90 gal freshwater, aquatic turtle tank. I will probably use 1 or 1.5 bulkhead with 1.5 internal piping. I will probably get the Eheim 1260 or 1262 (600 and 900 GPH respectively at zero head loss). Below is my wonderful MS paint rendering (screw CAD :) )

http://img369.imageshack.us/img369/773/beanoverflow.jpg

My questions:

1) First, do you guys see any fundamental flaw in the design? I know there is a little detail missing, like the airline from the "open" drain, but anything concerning?
2) I really just placed the locations of the bulkheads indiscriminately for the most part. SHould I move the bulkhead locations around, as in shallower, deeper, etc?
3) Should I use internal fitting and external threaded bulkheads?
4) I've heard gate valves can be unreliable. With the addition of the "open" drain to aid water level stabilization, a ball valve should suffice with tuning the system?

I also realize I will need a sump to accommodate the overflow chamber volume + the volume of water above and beyond the weir when my pump stops.

Thanks everyone!
 
Your plans should be fine other than the surface skimming. You should setup the weir so that the water DOES drop at least 1/2" or so. That will ensure that that the surface scum gets carried to the sump and your mechanical filtration :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14093937#post14093937 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by oldsaltman
Bean, I had to tilt two of my drains slightly to handle space issues. (poor planing) Do you see any reason that that would matter?

Overflow.jpg


I also had to scrape off some paint so I could see to level the overflow and get it siliconed in place.

WOW!!! What are all these holes for?
 
Quick questions:

How far from the top are the holes drilled on the tank.

Are the holes 1" in diameter?
 
I don't remember the plumbing sizes on this tank, if they were ever mentioned. There are reducer bushings on the sanitary ts, and larger 90's, on the valve side. the lumber is 2 x (1.5") so that can give you some scale to work with, I believe the sanitary tees are 1 1/2".

For the drains, the holes need to be at least 1 hole diameter down from the top edge of the glass, but without measuring, I can't tell you how far down they are. 1 1/2" bulkhead uses a 2 3/8" hole. The distance down, depends on the depth of the overflow, and how far up off the bottom of the overflow you want the internal elbow. For some reason I don't have the measurements memorized, and I end up measuring it everytime. Old age I guess....

J
 
Exactly.... At least one hole diamter from any edge and at least 1 hole diameter apart. The actual hole size will vary by bulkhead manufacturer :)
 
Question, do I have to add that box inside the tank for the bean drains to work? Or can I use the whole tank as the box? Thanks.
 
Without the weir (box) you will significantly diminish the efficiency of the system because there will be no surface skimming. Not advisable. I currently have a 50 gallon with no sump and no surface skimming. I am constantly stirring up the water to force the surface scum into the water column so the HOB skimmer can process it. Terrible design.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15478553#post15478553 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Tahoe Reefer
I've been having trouble locating a pvc sanitary tee, 1.5".
The closest i've found is this abs one:http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...Id=10053&productId=100173156&N=10000003+90063

would someone please link me to pvc ones or comment on wether or not i can use the one abs plastic one in the link above.

https://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(w4jmo3340ydxyovbtim4ds45)/productDetails.aspx?SKU=42678

J
 
OK here is my attempt at this I have a few questions

1. Should I make the pipes shorter
2. Will this work with the pipes being so close together
3. I have the emergency pipe a full 1.5" and the other two 1.5" to 1" and back to 1.5" is this a good idea?

Any help or advise is appreciated, none of the fittings are glued yet so I can make changes.

124951CIMG10703.jpg
 
Last edited:
1) ??!!!????!!!!????
2) ??!!!????!!!!????
3) NO this is not a good idea. It will mess with the physics of the drain system. Can answer that one, without seeing it.

Jim
 
pmoneyt:
I know we all get anxious when we want to get something done - but I can assure you - this entire thread is worth reading - carefully, and re-reading the obvious posts.
It will save you time, and frustration.
T
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15480737#post15480737 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pmoneyt
teesquare i did and it took me along time to come up with this just wanted a few more eyes before i finish up

Someone with better eyes than mine will have to help with this one.......:D Pic is too small.......

Jim
 
Back
Top