Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

Ok. Still pretty new to all this - what size return would you recommend (no loc-line) to have as efficient a pump as possible for that flow?

What pump are you using and what kind of flow are you targeting? Pipe resistance is proportional to 1/r^4, so it goes down pretty quickly with increasing diameter and at some point you reach a point of diminishing returns. There's a head loss calculator on the main RC page that you can use to get estimates.

I'd post this in the main forum for feed back since it's rather a separate issue from the bean animal setup.
 
Quick question, I have my outer overflow box in place and I need to "tap" the open channel cap. I'm not sure how to go about doing this, does anyone have a parts list or something on how to do this?
 
I used a 1/4" MIP to JG type Quick Connect adapter and the appropriate tap into a PVC end cap. A little non-hardening thread sealant made for PVC. The line is a piece of 1/4" refrigerator ice-maker tubing.
 
Quick question, I have my outer overflow box in place and I need to "tap" the open channel cap. I'm not sure how to go about doing this, does anyone have a parts list or something on how to do this?

I used one of these fittings and a ¼" NPT tap like one of these to cut the threads. NPT taps can be a bit hard to find. If you have a good hardware store, they may have one. Maybe Lowes/Home Depot. I found one at Menards locally.

If you don't want to actually tap threads, you could over-drill the hole and use silicone to hold it in place as well, but this wouldn't be as secure.
 
I used one of these fittings and a ¼" NPT tap like one of these to cut the threads. NPT taps can be a bit hard to find. If you have a good hardware store, they may have one. Maybe Lowes/Home Depot. I found one at Menards locally.

If you don't want to actually tap threads, you could over-drill the hole and use silicone to hold it in place as well, but this wouldn't be as secure.

Thanks for that info! I once drilled a DIY co2 reactor in the manner that you are suggesting. It never failed me. Thanks again.
 
Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

Soo.... I thinking I did this right?
I show I have to add the air tube to one of these (nervous about drilling and tapping to be honest)
Then I'm painting them black

Input welcome PLEASE

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From left to right open channel, straight channel, backup channel(will be drilled and tapped for the air tube)
 
That doesn't really help me fix it at all...

Well at this point there is no "fixing". It seems you bought this from Advance acrylics? I'm guessing just due to the green neon color I see at the bottom. Truth is, this system might work as is. You won't know till you try it. You certainly can't add more vertical space as a safety area, and it doesn't seem like you can lower your plumbing any more. I'll give you this, it looks sleek, but again, I'd be nervous about it overflowing. No pun intended.
 
Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

I figured it out. I was dumb and had the bulkheads with the threads inside. Should I add height to these or is this fine now? ImageUploadedByTapatalk1434166159.675353.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1434166478.567354.jpg
 
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in general, it's a good idea to have the top of an external overflow box even with the top of the tank to minimize the risk of the box overflowing. Looks like you have about 1-1.5" between the dry emergency and the top of the box - that should be enough.

As far as drilling and tapping - why are you nervous? You'll be drilling and tapping a $0.79 PVC cap. If you mess it up, buy a new one.

The siphon line doesn't necessarily have to have the tee and elbow on it. Bean had the elbow on his design to use in an internal coast to coast overflow and the tee on the outside to allow for cleaning. With an external, the only potential advantage is that it may limit critters getting into it if it's close to the floor of the box. Either way, you don't need to glue the fittings in place inside the overflow. With an internal overflow, an imperfect seal on the siphon will lead to it entraining air and increase noise from bubbles. That's not a risk with the bulkhead connection on the bottom in an external overflow.

Why do you have cross bracing around the dry emergency? that will only serve to limit flow into the pipe if you should be approaching a flood.
 
in general, it's a good idea to have the top of an external overflow box even with the top of the tank to minimize the risk of the box overflowing. Looks like you have about 1-1.5" between the dry emergency and the top of the box - that should be enough.

As far as drilling and tapping - why are you nervous? You'll be drilling and tapping a $0.79 PVC cap. If you mess it up, buy a new one.

The siphon line doesn't necessarily have to have the tee and elbow on it. Bean had the elbow on his design to use in an internal coast to coast overflow and the tee on the outside to allow for cleaning. With an external, the only potential advantage is that it may limit critters getting into it if it's close to the floor of the box. Either way, you don't need to glue the fittings in place inside the overflow. With an internal overflow, an imperfect seal on the siphon will lead to it entraining air and increase noise from bubbles. That's not a risk with the bulkhead connection on the bottom in an external overflow.

Why do you have cross bracing around the dry emergency? that will only serve to limit flow into the pipe if you should be approaching a flood.


I'm just not 100% comfortable with drilling and tapping that's all... But I was thinking of leaving it non glued together. Just pressed together pretty well.
I'll get a drill and tap tomorrow at harbor freight.

But it looks like it should.. I guess I'll see
 
Hi all, was hoping for some advice. I'm setting up a 900 gallon system and would like to go the bean animal route. I'm trying to size the overflow box and figure out how many bulk heads are needed.

Tank is 10' x 56" x 33" and my overflow will be an external box (current design is 60" long overflow). I was going to use a reeflo hammerhead for the sump ~5,000 gph) and current plan is a closed loop with eductors for flow (another 5,000 gph into the sump). I"m still researching the eductors but when sized properly, it looks like I could get ~25,000 gph water movement out of them.

Anyways, anyone able to make suggestions on what size pipe under full suction can handle 10,000 gph? I assume even though the tanks a monster, i would still want to go with the 3 pipe bean animal design?
oh, sump will be about 3' underneath overflow
Thanks!
 
If I wanted to run my bean animal through a wall in a fish room how.much would a 6 foot run slanted at about 60 degrees affect the drain? Would it cause major issuess?
 
I'm just not 100% comfortable with drilling and tapping that's all... But I was thinking of leaving it non glued together. Just pressed together pretty well.
I'll get a drill and tap tomorrow at harbor freight.

But it looks like it should.. I guess I'll see


Drilling & tapping is like a lot of things - not too tough once you get the hang of it. Buy a couple extra fittings to practice on and you'll be good.
 
If I wanted to run my bean animal through a wall in a fish room how.much would a 6 foot run slanted at about 60 degrees affect the drain? Would it cause major issuess?


Should be good - horizontal runs can cause air to stay trapped in the plumbing, but 60° should be fine. The longer run adds a bit of resistance, but you won't be running it wide open anyway.
 
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