Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

I am looking into running the bean animal setup, any recommendations?? should i go with a different setup?

I'd do some research on all the methods and see what appeals to you and your needs/abilities. There are countless threads and tons of information on here just use the search up top. I doubt you are going to get many people telling you to go a non Bean Animal route in a thread with over 8,000 replies on how to implement it.
 
I am looking into running the bean animal setup, any recommendations?? should i go with a different setup?

I would never go with any other setup if at all possible. If it wasn't possible I would really try hard to make it possible. Which is what I've already done.

99.99% of everything needed to know about this overflow/drain setup and how to do it is in the original article so I would recommend reading it.

http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx

And at the end of that page shows what Beananimal would recommend you read beyond that setup guide which would lead you right back here reading these threads...
 
Not possible to slope it . Looks like no choice but have to manually purge
The air. I read in another forum on bean animal but cannot remember which one.
They mentioned a small hole on top of siphon so that when immersed in water
The air bubbles will purged out from the hole

I have yet to find something "not possible" when plumbing under the tank. To do something that may require manual starting is begging for a flood, a burned out pump, and dead animals, etc. Such things are not acceptable. Redesign, turn the sump around, replace the sump, improvise overcome adapt, whatever, till the system works the way it is supposed to—or you are just wasting your time. Return line configuration affects perfromance, but drain line configuration affects both performance and safety. Which would you rather compromise?

BTW, a hole in the top of the siphon, will prevent the siphon from starting altogether, as the water level should not be higher than the top of the siphon when running... so what you will have is another durso (or open channel) and a lot of headaches.
 
Is it better to drill the holes on one side of the back glass versus just in the middle? I plan on have an internal/external overflow design. I have a 46? Gallon bow front aquarium.
 
My tank is being built, a 300 gallon. I meant to ask for 1-1/2" bulkhead holes but I guess that topic never came up so they drilled for 1" bulkheads. Would that be enough or should it be redone with 1-1/2 bulkheads?

edit: the drop will be about 4 ft.
 
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Is it better to drill the holes on one side of the back glass versus just in the middle? I plan on have an internal/external overflow design. I have a 46? Gallon bow front aquarium.

It depends on your setup; if you're planning on an internal weir with external plumbing, you need to have enough holes to allow free flow of the water from one compartment to the next. I don't know that it matters that much where the holes are. Some configurations may lead to more stagnation in some parts of the overflow, increasing cleaning frequency.
 
My tank is being built, a 300 gallon. I meant to ask for 1-1/2" bulkhead holes but I guess that topic never came up so they drilled for 1" bulkheads. Would that be enough or should it be redone with 1-1/2 bulkheads?

edit: the drop will be about 4 ft.

How much flow are you hoping for? Is this just for the overflows, or for returns too? In his original setup, Bean used 1" bulkheads and upsized the plumbing to 1.5" after the bulkhead. He got 2000 gph with that setup.
 
How much flow are you hoping for? Is this just for the overflows, or for returns too? In his original setup, Bean used 1" bulkheads and upsized the plumbing to 1.5" after the bulkhead. He got 2000 gph with that setup.

Yea I remember reading that but I didn't know what size his tank was.

edit: This is just for the overflows. The return hole is 1-1/2

I am deciding between a reeflo super dart which would give me about 3000gph, a Vectra L1 about 2000gph or a RE RD3 230 which would give a lot but I would dial it down to about 2500 or so.

I guess if I keep the 1" bulkheads I would have to dial it down to 2000.
 
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I've decided to just keep it like the original BA. so I'll have only an internal overflow. I'm drilling 1" bulkheads. I've made a ghetto template (should do the job still) the top of my holes are measuring 1 3/4 from the top of the glass. It's a trimmed tank but I've measured from the inside lip on the trim to get a better (top of glass) measurement.

Any suggestions before I put the bit to the glass?

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The pads are to keep it off the glass so I can allow water to get to the bit.
 
I've decided to just keep it like the original BA. so I'll have only an internal overflow. I'm drilling 1" bulkheads. I've made a ghetto template (should do the job still) the top of my holes are measuring 1 3/4 from the top of the glass. It's a trimmed tank but I've measured from the inside lip on the trim to get a better (top of glass) measurement.

Any suggestions before I put the bit to the glass?

The pads are to keep it off the glass so I can allow water to get to the bit.

- minimum safe distance is 1 diameter between glass edges (most 1" bulkheads are a bit less than 1 ¾", so this should be fine)
- Plan out your overflow with the elbows, etc before drilling. You need also need to worry about the position of the upturned emergency overflow. If it's above the top of the tank it won't do you any good!
 
Yea I remember reading that but I didn't know what size his tank was.

edit: This is just for the overflows. The return hole is 1-1/2

I am deciding between a reeflo super dart which would give me about 3000gph, a Vectra L1 about 2000gph or a RE RD3 230 which would give a lot but I would dial it down to about 2500 or so.

I guess if I keep the 1" bulkheads I would have to dial it down to 2000.

Maybe - I don't know how much flow you could get with 1" bulkheads and 1.5" plumbing. If you're hoping for 3000 gph, I'd check to see if they can make the holes larger. Also, post a new thread with your question - you might get more people looking at it as a separate thread than under the BA thread.
 
I'm 99.9% sure my glass is not tempered after testing it with a Polarized lense and lcd.

With that being said, I didn't want to build the actual overflow before drilling just in case it decides to shatter.

I've mocked plumbed the 1" elbow facing upwards and it lands just a tad above the inside trim tab marking the top of glass but I still have about 1/2" before going over everything. So I think I'll be clear of my emergency not doing any good. Should I drop my holes further down?
 
I'd move it down a bit - I learned to use the inner lip of the frame as the edge of the glass and assume that the seal wasn't perfect (and the tank would therefore leak) above that.
 
sounds good, ill move it down 1/2 inch so no matter what i shouldn't be over the glass or dealing with an imperfect seal under that frame. I cant see an 1/2" making to big of change with the overflow being that much further down inside the tank. Thanks for the suggestions :beer:
 
I have a 48x28x24 tank with a overflow centered on the back wall. I have 3 drains and 1 return.

How high should the drains be in the overflow?
1) Emergency standpipe
2) Siphon standpipe
3) Open channel standpipe

I guess I am asking how many inches down from the top of the overflow do I place the top of the standpipes? I am having trouble finding info for bean animals in a normal box overflow.
 
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