Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
What's with the mass of silicone around the bulkhead there?
Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
- Thread starter JohnL
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jason2459
Well-known member
Isn't that how you're supposed to install bulkheads? :jester:
That was a patch job to silicone glass to the glass that was broken while moving the tank into the house. It hit the corner of a wall as we were making a curve. I was quite ticked off and I went over zealous on the silicone and didn't care one bit how it looked as no one ever sees it. I basically recovered the right half of the overflow with new glass and drilled a new hole through the new glass on the bottom.
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iv had my tank set up since October last year and its really bugging me with the water going down the pipes noise.
so iv been thinking about using the bean animal overflow and doing a coast to coats weir as iv got 4 holes drilled already. so my question is could i use 3 of the holes for the bean animal and use 1 for my return pipework and would it matter that 2 holes are together and 1 will be at the other end of the tank?
the pictures are from when i first got the tank (it was second hand) the drawing shows how the plumbing is as of now.
REAR VIEW
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=353364&stc=1&d=1467222880
FRONT VIEW
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=353365&stc=1&d=1467222885
some pictures of the tank when i was working on it in the garage back in october.....the tank is currently stocked
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=353367&stc=1&d=1467222911
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=353366&stc=1&d=1467222899
so iv been thinking about using the bean animal overflow and doing a coast to coats weir as iv got 4 holes drilled already. so my question is could i use 3 of the holes for the bean animal and use 1 for my return pipework and would it matter that 2 holes are together and 1 will be at the other end of the tank?
the pictures are from when i first got the tank (it was second hand) the drawing shows how the plumbing is as of now.
REAR VIEW
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=353364&stc=1&d=1467222880
FRONT VIEW
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=353365&stc=1&d=1467222885
some pictures of the tank when i was working on it in the garage back in october.....the tank is currently stocked
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=353367&stc=1&d=1467222911
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=353366&stc=1&d=1467222899
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zachtos
Active member
I have a 300G marineland DD tank I am setting up. It has TWO corner overflows, each with 1" bulk heads. How do I rig this up if they are in opposite corners like that?
Also, what will be maximum flow I can achieve?
I have a reeflo Barracuda (I think it's 6000gph at no head, 4000 or so at 5 feet).
If too much flow, can I use one of the other 1" pipes to do double full siphon, emergency pipe and a drain pipe? Then use over the top pipe for return flow?
Also, what will be maximum flow I can achieve?
I have a reeflo Barracuda (I think it's 6000gph at no head, 4000 or so at 5 feet).
If too much flow, can I use one of the other 1" pipes to do double full siphon, emergency pipe and a drain pipe? Then use over the top pipe for return flow?
EvMiBo
VictoriaConcordiaCrescit
This would work fine.
I would also consider drilling one more return hole for five holes total. I had to do something similar with a small side on my peninsula. 1/4" glass is very easy to drill (what I used for the overflow weir/box)
This is my diy bean animal. [photo taken from the other small end]
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zachtos
Active member
How do I rig up this 300G marineland DD tank I am setting up?
It has TWO corner overflows, each with 1" bulk heads.
Also, what will be maximum flow I can achieve?
If too much flow from return, then I can go over the top of tank for return flow.
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jduck
Member
Depends on how long the down tube is after the bulkhead. No siphon 1" bulkhead will do 600/650gph.
How do I rig up this 300G marineland DD tank I am setting up?
It has TWO corner overflows, each with 1" bulk heads.
Also, what will be maximum flow I can achieve?
If too much flow from return, then I can go over the top of tank for return flow.
Last edited by a moderator:
zachtos
Active member
These are setup for 1" standard bulk heads, so I could have a total of 4.
It is 5 feet from top of tank to floor, and 3 feet from bottom of tank/hole to the floor, sump will be on flat floor under the tank.
Ideally I could run 1 or 2 full siphon, an emergency tube and a standpipe. I think it sounds like the emergency pipe will be too small at 1" to be of use... maybe I can use leaky uniseals to go higher diamater pipe.
sleepydoc
Team RC
How do I rig up this 300G marineland DD tank I am setting up?
It has TWO corner overflows, each with 1" bulk heads.
Also, what will be maximum flow I can achieve?
If too much flow from return, then I can go over the top of tank for return flow.
A 1" pipe will run in excess of 1000 GPH at full siphon, depending on the drop.
The bigger problem is using this setup for a bean overflow. You need 3 pipes plus a return for the bean overflow and to function properly, they need to be in the same body of water. (When water flows over a weir the water in the overflow is separate from that in the tank for our purposes, making 2 bodies of water. In a dual corner flow setup there are 3 bodies of water until the levels in the overflows rise up above the overflow.) There are 3 ways of doing a bean with this setup that I know of:
1. Have the siphon and the open channel in one corner and the return and dry emergency in the other. This will only work if the dry emergency is above the level of the overflows. It limits the overflow area to one corner, far from ideal in a large tank, and creates a stagnant area in the second overflow that has the emergency and the return.
2. Modify the overflows to connect them together- I have seen people cut a notch in the overflows and put a weir between them. This gives improved surface skimming from the longer overflow area and lets you use the existing bulkhead holes but is quite a bit of work and difficult to make look good.
3. Remove the corner flows and replace with a coast to coast internal or external overflow. Realistically, this is the best solution but also involves modifying the tank and potentially drilling holes .
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zachtos
Active member
Comments above, but I think if someone can verify that my tank is safe to drill the bottom pane (marineland 300G DD), then it would be easiest to add larger holes and extend an overflow box. If I did so, I have two 1" bulkheads now, how many more drilled holes of what size would be best (assuming I want maybe 1500-2500 gph max?
I can't help on if a 300 dd is tempered or not, but on a bean animal the siphon will take most of the flow. With option #1 or option #2 u will be somewhat limited with the 1" bulkheads for drains. I believe u will be maxing out at about 1,200 to maybe 1,500 gph with the 1" drains.
If u go with option #3 u can cap your existing bulkheads or use a couple for your returns & drill out of the back of the tank for 1.5" bulkheads for drains. A 1.5" siphon can handle 2,500 to 3,000 gph (My flow rates aren't exact but they should be close). This way you wouldn't lose the 5" or so from the back of the tank.
If u don't want to come out the back u can still come out the bottom, your c2c overflow would just have to go all the way to the bottom. U may be able to incorporate your foam wall to act as the overflow box. If u go this route I would use two of your existing 1" bulkheads for your returns & drill 3 holes for 1.5" bulkheads for the drains. This way u will be able to handle twice the flow & not be limited by the 1" syphon.
Whatever route u choose to go make sure your 3 drains are the same size or your siphon is the smaller drain. U don't want your syphon to be bigger then your emergency drains.
If u go with option #3 u can cap your existing bulkheads or use a couple for your returns & drill out of the back of the tank for 1.5" bulkheads for drains. A 1.5" siphon can handle 2,500 to 3,000 gph (My flow rates aren't exact but they should be close). This way you wouldn't lose the 5" or so from the back of the tank.
If u don't want to come out the back u can still come out the bottom, your c2c overflow would just have to go all the way to the bottom. U may be able to incorporate your foam wall to act as the overflow box. If u go this route I would use two of your existing 1" bulkheads for your returns & drill 3 holes for 1.5" bulkheads for the drains. This way u will be able to handle twice the flow & not be limited by the 1" syphon.
Whatever route u choose to go make sure your 3 drains are the same size or your siphon is the smaller drain. U don't want your syphon to be bigger then your emergency drains.
zachtos
Active member
I might drill, but leaning toward not hurting the warranty at this point, if there even is one. Maybe just go low flow of 1000-1500gph on return and divert the rest with dual DCS-9000 motors to an algal turf scrubber. That still gives me 3-4X turnover and enough for my scrubber (not sure if I can feed the full siphon to the scrubber or must be submerged for 1000-1500gph?)
If I do this, will this work and be safe?
Left chamber (standpipe and siphon)
-Max overall display drain flow 1000-1500gph
-Left = 1" bulkhead w/ open channel stand-pipe
-Right = 1" bulkhead w/ Full siphon (no valve just wide open)
Right chamber (emergency and return)
-Max return flow (small hole to agitate stagnant water in chamber)
-Left = 1" bulkhead w/ emergency standpipe
-Right = 1" bulkhead w/ return flow that overflows out through the teeth
I could do over the top for return if I need dual emergency 1" pipes if I have a 1" full siphon. Not sure what happens if one of the three pipes fails exactly.
I would put a valve on the siphon drain. U will probably need it to be able to tune the system in so it is silent.
I have never ran dual overflows but that's the only way I can see doing it without modifying the tank. It's not ideal but it should work.U will only be using one of the overflows so surface skimming won't be great.
You can use the hole in the right box for the return. If u drill a few holes in the pipe coming up it should help so the water isn't completely stagnant in that box.
One emergency drain will be enough, if it gets submerged it will turn into a siphon & drain just as much as your main drain. Remember to do as sleepdoc said on the emergency, u will want it just above the overflow so it stays dry under normal operation & water isn't entering that box.
Other then being silent that's another good thing about beans design, it has two failsafes if u have the airline on the open channel. U set the airline just above the emergency and if the water rises that high it turns the open channel into a siphon.
I have never ran dual overflows but that's the only way I can see doing it without modifying the tank. It's not ideal but it should work.U will only be using one of the overflows so surface skimming won't be great.
You can use the hole in the right box for the return. If u drill a few holes in the pipe coming up it should help so the water isn't completely stagnant in that box.
One emergency drain will be enough, if it gets submerged it will turn into a siphon & drain just as much as your main drain. Remember to do as sleepdoc said on the emergency, u will want it just above the overflow so it stays dry under normal operation & water isn't entering that box.
Other then being silent that's another good thing about beans design, it has two failsafes if u have the airline on the open channel. U set the airline just above the emergency and if the water rises that high it turns the open channel into a siphon.
Wave makers are ok. U have to get it tuned in by using the valve on the siphon drain. On your setup I would just put a strainer on the bulkhead or a short piece of pvc with a strainer on the siphon drain in the overflow box. Then I would set the open channel about 1 or 2" from the top overflow box. U use the valve on the siphon to set the water level in the overflow. U will want it to be where just a small amount of water goes in the open channel. Once u get to this point u will be able to tune it to where it is silent. Usually if it's not silent & everything is operating correctly it's because to much water is flowing in the open channel.
Don't glue the drains inside the overflow box so u can adjust the height of the drains if u find it needs it. U don't want the open channel to low in the box or u will have a waterfall entering the overflow which can get loud too.
Don't glue the drains inside the overflow box so u can adjust the height of the drains if u find it needs it. U don't want the open channel to low in the box or u will have a waterfall entering the overflow which can get loud too.
I am going to be setting up a 200+ gallon tank and will run the drain lines to a remote sump 20 feet away. Based on where I want to put the tank and the sump location I need to run the drain lines along a sunken floor and back up to the sump room. I will try and accomplish this by running them along the wall of the sunken floor and will need to build a box around them, then finish material will go on top (carpet). Sunken floor is about 9 inches lower.
My question... does anyone see an issue with only running the full siphon, secondary siphon and return line in the "box" and run the emergency/safety drain line to an empty tank below the 200+ galloon tank in the middle of my basement. I could then hook up a float or water alert in that tank that could be controlled by my Apex to shut off the return pump etc... I am trying to save a as much space as possible so the "box" I make around the 20' of drain lines to the sump is as inconspicuous as possible.
Thoughts?
My question... does anyone see an issue with only running the full siphon, secondary siphon and return line in the "box" and run the emergency/safety drain line to an empty tank below the 200+ galloon tank in the middle of my basement. I could then hook up a float or water alert in that tank that could be controlled by my Apex to shut off the return pump etc... I am trying to save a as much space as possible so the "box" I make around the 20' of drain lines to the sump is as inconspicuous as possible.
Thoughts?
zachtos
Active member
I would like to know if anyone feeds their siphon line to a device?
I want to use it to feed an algae turf scrubber so I can save wattage/pumps. It would drop about 2 feet down to the sump, then 90 degree into a 3 foot long pipe that has a 1/8" groove cut. This basically would create a open air waterfall curtain with the siphon line.
Will my siphon start up properly, and are there any problems you can see?
I want to use it to feed an algae turf scrubber so I can save wattage/pumps. It would drop about 2 feet down to the sump, then 90 degree into a 3 foot long pipe that has a 1/8" groove cut. This basically would create a open air waterfall curtain with the siphon line.
Will my siphon start up properly, and are there any problems you can see?
heres my 120g nearly done. i went with an 18" ghost-overflow style box from modular marine, but i had them do it custom, 5x 1.5" bulkheads. normally he does 2" ones through the tank, but i decided to go 1.5" all around.
I ended up using one of those slip fit low profile strainers from lifegard and then i just used doubled 90s and drilled a hole in the corner of one of the 90s, and a short piece of PVC for the wet/trickle tube, and the emeregncy is just a straight pipe
the only other option woulda been to cut one of the bulkheads down so i could do the double-90 thing for both the siphon and the trickle, but i actually kinda like the strainer for the siphon, because it makes the overflow box drain completely when the system is powered down. I don't have any problems with venturis or anything, the strainer and the fact the double 90 is sitting on top of it, as long as the level is adjusted somewhere in the ball park, it's fine. the gate valve makes adjustment a breeze and i've never had a single issue so far
here is the main returns, full siphon is hard plumb in the back, trickle is the black spaflex
the emergency comes out into the return chamber on the other side
so far, the overflow box and the gate valve and all that, absolutely perfect. all works really great, and super dead silent. my bigger noise problem is actually the sump. first problem is that it's 1" intakes and not 1.5" so we had to reduce it down, not a huge problem but just an annoyance, and the 2nd bigger problem is that this proflex sump has those acrylic cylinders that the return pipes go into and then overflow through the filter socks, they're just not wide enough to handle the amount of flow I'm putting through without creating a huge jet of water out the top of the tube. I'm actually hoping that once the filter socks are a bit more clogged up from actual use, that it will gradually quiet itself down a bit as the water level in that chamber should rise. Since the noise is mostly in the sump, i may also try insulating the bottom of the tank stand a bit to make it even quieter, as well as reduce heat loss since all my heaters are down there. It's not nearly as bad as it was before I got the one plastic lid fixed up, either...
I ended up using one of those slip fit low profile strainers from lifegard and then i just used doubled 90s and drilled a hole in the corner of one of the 90s, and a short piece of PVC for the wet/trickle tube, and the emeregncy is just a straight pipe
the only other option woulda been to cut one of the bulkheads down so i could do the double-90 thing for both the siphon and the trickle, but i actually kinda like the strainer for the siphon, because it makes the overflow box drain completely when the system is powered down. I don't have any problems with venturis or anything, the strainer and the fact the double 90 is sitting on top of it, as long as the level is adjusted somewhere in the ball park, it's fine. the gate valve makes adjustment a breeze and i've never had a single issue so far
here is the main returns, full siphon is hard plumb in the back, trickle is the black spaflex
the emergency comes out into the return chamber on the other side
so far, the overflow box and the gate valve and all that, absolutely perfect. all works really great, and super dead silent. my bigger noise problem is actually the sump. first problem is that it's 1" intakes and not 1.5" so we had to reduce it down, not a huge problem but just an annoyance, and the 2nd bigger problem is that this proflex sump has those acrylic cylinders that the return pipes go into and then overflow through the filter socks, they're just not wide enough to handle the amount of flow I'm putting through without creating a huge jet of water out the top of the tube. I'm actually hoping that once the filter socks are a bit more clogged up from actual use, that it will gradually quiet itself down a bit as the water level in that chamber should rise. Since the noise is mostly in the sump, i may also try insulating the bottom of the tank stand a bit to make it even quieter, as well as reduce heat loss since all my heaters are down there. It's not nearly as bad as it was before I got the one plastic lid fixed up, either...
Hey,
I am looking to do a 150G custom aquarium into an existing wall niche in my room tight up against the back of the niche. I wouldn't be able to get to the back of the tank once set up. Because of this I was wanting to order my tank with pre drilled holes in the bottom back with an internal weir. I was thinking two 2" holes for a 1-1/4" bulkheads and 2 at 1-3/4" for 1" bulkheads for return and full siphon ports. From what I've read this seems like it would be sufficient as I plan on tank fans as well. I wanted to keep the size of the bottom holes to a minimum because there are four holes!
I have looked thru these threads for the last 3 hours, and a couple more looking a the Herbie threads, I am sold on the BA version. Even so I have still only read a portion of these pages using searches for information, so I apologize if this question has already been answered, here goes;
I don't see anything about bottom of tank hole setup for the BA system for an on purpose tank setup. I see above some talk about an existing setup. Is an internal weir/drilling setup just not recommended? or will it just not work well? I assume the top of the system would work like a typical setup but just that the ports would be on the bottom of the tank weir and not in some external or internal overflow box, so it seem like theoretically that this would work just as well as an external overflow box.
However I've been wrong once before. Don't want to do that again! : )
Thanks,
I am looking to do a 150G custom aquarium into an existing wall niche in my room tight up against the back of the niche. I wouldn't be able to get to the back of the tank once set up. Because of this I was wanting to order my tank with pre drilled holes in the bottom back with an internal weir. I was thinking two 2" holes for a 1-1/4" bulkheads and 2 at 1-3/4" for 1" bulkheads for return and full siphon ports. From what I've read this seems like it would be sufficient as I plan on tank fans as well. I wanted to keep the size of the bottom holes to a minimum because there are four holes!
I have looked thru these threads for the last 3 hours, and a couple more looking a the Herbie threads, I am sold on the BA version. Even so I have still only read a portion of these pages using searches for information, so I apologize if this question has already been answered, here goes;
I don't see anything about bottom of tank hole setup for the BA system for an on purpose tank setup. I see above some talk about an existing setup. Is an internal weir/drilling setup just not recommended? or will it just not work well? I assume the top of the system would work like a typical setup but just that the ports would be on the bottom of the tank weir and not in some external or internal overflow box, so it seem like theoretically that this would work just as well as an external overflow box.
However I've been wrong once before. Don't want to do that again! : )
Thanks,
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