Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

Do you have a gate valve somewhere for the full siphon - it is hard to tune it with just a standard union valve. Looks clean though!
 
You will know when it's dialed in, because it will be completely silent. Both my full and open channel are both slightly submerged, and that makes it very obvious that all the air has been removed. Also, I belive that that main line should be submerged for some reason other than that, but I don't remember why.

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When you say both those are slightly submerged, I take it you mean the open end of the downward 90 that is submerged correct? Do you have any water (even the slightest trickle) flowing down your OC during normal operation? I have read that there should be a small trickle always but wanted to be sure.
 
Do you have a gate valve somewhere for the full siphon - it is hard to tune it with just a standard union valve. Looks clean though!

I wonder if the grey fitting on the pipe that drains all the way to the left is the gate valve. The 'wheel' on the valve might be tucked away under the stand to where it is not visible in the picture?
 
When you say both those are slightly submerged, I take it you mean the open end of the downward 90 that is submerged correct? Do you have any water (even the slightest trickle) flowing down your OC during normal operation? I have read that there should be a small trickle always but wanted to be sure.

I mean the end of the drain where it empties into the sump. In my overflow box, the main is nearly submerged, and the open channel is probably 80% submerged, but importantly the air hole isn't covered.

I don't believe it is a requirement that you have water flowing through the open channel, it's just to handle any excess water that the main can't. Although I do though have some water moving through my open channel, all the time.

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I wonder if the grey fitting on the pipe that drains all the way to the left is the gate valve. The 'wheel' on the valve might be tucked away under the stand to where it is not visible in the picture?
Definitely a gate valve.

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Yeah its a gate valve. I wanted it kinda out of the way for when doing stuff under the tank. I put a union on both sides so if i need i can always rotate it.

All in all im happy with it. My first plumbing job. I cant tell you how many trips to home depot this took. Good thing I have one really close.
 
I need some help fine tuning my ghost overflow box. I have all the plumbing completed and leak free! However, I just cannot seem to get the water level in the external over flow tuned correctly. My main siphon elbow is 1.5" from the bottom, the OC elbow is at 2.5" and the emergency drain opening is at 5". When I start the system up, the water level rises up above the emergency drain and in about 20 seconds drains below that level. However, it never seems to fall below the air hole in the top of the elbow on the OC.

I have tried fine tuning with the gate valve on the primary. Fully open all the way to fully closed doesn't seem to change the level at all in the box.

What am I doing wrong, or does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this issue to where after startup, the water levels finally settles below the air hole level?

Thank you!
 
I need some help fine tuning my ghost overflow box. I have all the plumbing completed and leak free! However, I just cannot seem to get the water level in the external over flow tuned correctly. My main siphon elbow is 1.5" from the bottom, the OC elbow is at 2.5" and the emergency drain opening is at 5". When I start the system up, the water level rises up above the emergency drain and in about 20 seconds drains below that level. However, it never seems to fall below the air hole in the top of the elbow on the OC.

I have tried fine tuning with the gate valve on the primary. Fully open all the way to fully closed doesn't seem to change the level at all in the box.

What am I doing wrong, or does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this issue to where after startup, the water levels finally settles below the air hole level?

Thank you!
Where is the gate valve? What size plumbing? Etc.

The only thing u can think of is to raise up the open channel. You have 2.5 inches to play with. Raise it to 3" and see what happens.

Pictures maybe helpful.

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Where is the gate valve? What size plumbing? Etc.

The only thing u can think of is to raise up the open channel. You have 2.5 inches to play with. Raise it to 3" and see what happens.

Pictures maybe helpful.

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I am so sorry - for some reason I didn't get a notification of this response and got busy with finalizing the setup. I did find my problem. The primary drain pipe was submerged a little too deep in the sump. I cut the PVC so that only an ~1" was under water, and bingo! Problem solved. I now have everything working like it should.

Thank you so much for all your help through my issues! Cheers!
 
Help with overflow noise. I have a full siphon with gate valve that I uses to adjust the nicer flow box height

The full siphon line is fully submerged. The secondary had a U pipe on top is my secondary and the stand pipe is the overflow. Now when set it silent however the water level seems to change once in a while and I get a loud waterfall sound from it droping into the overflow box.

Return pump is a dct6000(or dct7000?). Is the pump flow some how changing or is something else messing with my water level?

Now the wave makes make a small wave which is fine until the level randomly drops a bit. (Does seem to come back up over time and level out)
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Seems to me your OC is way to high. The horizontal portion should be partially submerged or else it won't operate properly. Then turn the JG fitting up. The way you have it set almost requires the siphon to be perfectly tuned and that is not correct. The OC should flow some all the time ideally, and can actually be fully submerged with the air intake above the water (just below the emergency level) so that it kicks in before the emergency.

Also it seems your emergency is too high but may just be the pic angle
 
Confirmation on current design

Confirmation on current design

G'Day, I've been doing heap of research and am building my first 'coast to coast using the 'Bean Animal' silent design. Thanks

Please could you advise if there have been any improvements that I should consider and also please clarify that its correct to have the syphon and open channel stand pipe holes at the same height.

Cheers

Rich
 
Shiftline the overflow box is what sets the tanks water height. The water should drop just a little bit into the box. This will remove the wave maker problem and then you use the gate value to get the water in the box to the correct height so just a little water trickles down the secondary drain.
 
So if the water drops to much into the overflow box I get a waterfall Noise which I'm trying to avoid. In order to have most of the water going through the full siphon I'll have to crank my pump way up as the gate valve is barley open (to raise water level up to avoid waterfall noise

It's pretty good where the set now but I may try upping the flow to have the fill siphon doing most of the work. On a 100g ish display what do you recommend for return pump flow? I'm using a Jabeo dct6000 DC pump
 
2 questions for the experts:

I am running 2x DC11000 to feed a 320 gallon 8 foot aquarium. I dont know the exact flow I could get at 100% - but figured I could tune it with pump throughput percentage and full siphon tuning with a gate valve. I was planning on 1 1/2" piping for both open channel, full siphon and emergency. Do you think my open channel will be dry with 1.5" full siphon?

2nd question? Can you tee and apply valves to the open channel to feed a refugium with a percentage of the total volume going through the open channel?

Further info: all three pipes (open, emergency, full siphon) have their own inlets into the sump. 100% of the full siphon will always be going to the sump.
 
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