zelie_dad
Always bring a towel
It is a Modular Marine "Ghost" overflow. A handful of companies make them. I ordered my without the "teeth", and I also ordered a cover for the external box. Cost me about $150.
Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
- Thread starter JohnL
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It is a Modular Marine "Ghost" overflow. A handful of companies make them. I ordered my without the "teeth", and I also ordered a cover for the external box. Cost me about $150.
thanks for the info. I may consider making my own version out of Polypropylene instead of acrylic.
paulojbsilva
New member
Hi everyone!
I'm fine tunning my overflow and replacing some parts in the tubbing etc etc...
I have gurgling sounds and flushing occurs in the overflow, I believe due to poor tunning in the valve of the siphon pipe. One question haunts my thoughts anyway. My open chanel intake and full siphon are at the same height. I saw some guys who had the open channel a little bit above the full shiphon. Have I messed up making them same height? I don't think I can fix that now...
Thanks!
Greetings from Portugal
Paulo
I'm fine tunning my overflow and replacing some parts in the tubbing etc etc...
I have gurgling sounds and flushing occurs in the overflow, I believe due to poor tunning in the valve of the siphon pipe. One question haunts my thoughts anyway. My open chanel intake and full siphon are at the same height. I saw some guys who had the open channel a little bit above the full shiphon. Have I messed up making them same height? I don't think I can fix that now...
Thanks!
Greetings from Portugal
Paulo
zelie_dad
Always bring a towel
I have my open channel about a 1/2" (~13 mm) above my full siphon, and the emergency another 1/2" above that. I mine is dead silent.
Do you have an air line attached to the open channel? Where is your valve?
zelie_dad
Always bring a towel
That's what I'm using on my 40. Also, if you are going to use 2 90's, make one a street 90, and the other a regular 90. This way you don't have to use an additional piece of pipe, or bullet as my retired plumber father calls them, to connect the the two 90's.
Street 90
Regular 90
You could also use a p-trap, but I believe the smallest is a 1 1/4" pvc, and that is probably thin walled, not sch. 40.
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That is definitely a good idea. I like to use DWV fittings sometimes especially the Tss, but they don't come under 1-1/2".
How much flow do you get out of your open channel line? It may be difficult to plumb all these lines into a single 4" filter sock. I may just run the open channel and emergency line in the open area not directly into the sock.
zelie_dad
Always bring a towel
Honestly, I don't know what my flow is. I tuned my system to where it was completely silent, and I had water flowing from the open channel. I found that, for my setup, if I don't have enough water going through the open channel, any fluctuation in the amount of water being drained causes my siphon channel to become noisy. So make sure that I have water flowing through the open channel, and the siphon is silent, it's dialed in. My setup is a basement sump with a long horizontal run ~16'. and my gate valve is just above my sump.
yea thats my issue running 3 1" pipes to my 20" wide sump seems overkill to me. But then again if I just use a durso style overflow with a single pipe it will be nosiy.
ClownsRCoo
New member
I've got an external c2c box with the plumbing entering the bottom. I am using the (2) 90's for my siphons and open channel.
I can hear water gurgling in the open drain. Should I raise by open drain a little higher so that it's just a trickle of water going down it? Right now my drain is kind of quiet but not completely silent like I want
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I can hear water gurgling in the open drain. Should I raise by open drain a little higher so that it's just a trickle of water going down it? Right now my drain is kind of quiet but not completely silent like I want
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zelie_dad
Always bring a towel
I would say your open channel is too low. That sound is probably from the open channel attempting to start a siphon, but can't obviously.
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Hey folks. I am hoping one of you can address my questions/concerns. I am seeing the bean animal over designed in a couple of different ways and I wanted to make sure the way I have it will work.
One way I have seen it is with the first elbow as the primary siphon, the second pipe (upright open end PVC as the 'emergency' siphon and the third elbow, with the air vent as the a fallback drain. In this example, the third is the tallest followed by the second (emergency) followed by the primary being the shortest. Here, the full siphon is the first drain and it if gets clogged, the emergency drain kicks in and if all else fails the vented drain kicks in.
The second way I have seen it (and which is how I have it set up) is where the primary is the shortest, followed by the second 90 elbow drain with air vent, followed by the emergency drain being the tallest. In this case, the primary and second standpipes are fully submerged inside the sump. The emergency drain is above the water line to create noise/bubbles if and when it is activated. Here the hierarchy of drain activation is primary followed by vented followed by emergency.
Is the overflow designed either way correct, and will the second option work or do I need to reconfigure it? When I thought of emergency drain, I thought of it as the worst case scenario which is not how the first route is put together.
Here are some pictures of my setup. The first one shows the three drains. The one on the far left is the vented drain, the one next to it with the gate valve is the primary drain and the one on the far right is the emergency, which is set up to drain above the water level. Inside the overflow, I have the primary drain opening ~1 inch off the bottom, the vented drain ~3 inches off the bottom and the emergency ~1 inch below the top of the overflow box.
Thank you for your help!
One way I have seen it is with the first elbow as the primary siphon, the second pipe (upright open end PVC as the 'emergency' siphon and the third elbow, with the air vent as the a fallback drain. In this example, the third is the tallest followed by the second (emergency) followed by the primary being the shortest. Here, the full siphon is the first drain and it if gets clogged, the emergency drain kicks in and if all else fails the vented drain kicks in.
The second way I have seen it (and which is how I have it set up) is where the primary is the shortest, followed by the second 90 elbow drain with air vent, followed by the emergency drain being the tallest. In this case, the primary and second standpipes are fully submerged inside the sump. The emergency drain is above the water line to create noise/bubbles if and when it is activated. Here the hierarchy of drain activation is primary followed by vented followed by emergency.
Is the overflow designed either way correct, and will the second option work or do I need to reconfigure it? When I thought of emergency drain, I thought of it as the worst case scenario which is not how the first route is put together.
Here are some pictures of my setup. The first one shows the three drains. The one on the far left is the vented drain, the one next to it with the gate valve is the primary drain and the one on the far right is the emergency, which is set up to drain above the water level. Inside the overflow, I have the primary drain opening ~1 inch off the bottom, the vented drain ~3 inches off the bottom and the emergency ~1 inch below the top of the overflow box.
Thank you for your help!
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zelie_dad
Always bring a towel
The second way is the only way. The emergency has to be higher than the other two. If either is higher than the other two, it completely defeats the purpose of having an emergency drain.Hey folks. I am hoping one of you can address my questions/concerns. I am seeing the bean animal over designed in a couple of different ways and I wanted to make sure the way I have it will work.
One way I have seen it is with the first elbow as the primary siphon, the second pipe (upright open end PVC as the 'emergency' siphon and the third elbow, with the air vent as the a fallback drain. In this example, the third is the tallest followed by the second (emergency) followed by the primary being the shortest. Here, the full siphon is the first drain and it if gets clogged, the emergency drain kicks in and if all else fails the vented drain kicks in.
The second way I have seen it (and which is how I have it set up) is where the primary is the shortest, followed by the second 90 elbow drain with air vent, followed by the emergency drain being the tallest. In this case, the primary and second standpipes are fully submerged inside the sump. The emergency drain is above the water line to create noise/bubbles if and when it is activated. Here the hierarchy of drain activation is primary followed by vented followed by emergency.
Is the overflow designed either way correct, and will the second option work or do I need to reconfigure it? When I thought of emergency drain, I thought of it as the worst case scenario which is not how the first route is put together.
Here are some pictures of my setup. The first one shows the three drains. The one on the far left is the vented drain, the one next to it with the gate valve is the primary drain and the one on the far right is the emergency, which is set up to drain above the water level. Inside the overflow, I have the primary drain opening ~1 inch off the bottom, the vented drain ~3 inches off the bottom and the emergency ~1 inch below the top of the overflow box.
Thank you for your help!
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Thank you! That's what I thought just from the common sense meaning of the word "emergency" but I am seeing so many videos of folks doing it the other way that I started doubting myself.
One other question - I understand that on system startup, the water level needs to rise to a level slightly above the emergency drain level in order for the full siphon to fill up completely and purge all the air out. If the secondary drain is below the emergency, won't (or shouldn't) it start draining water thereby not letting it reach the emergency level? In this case, does you full siphon start up correctly?
zelie_dad
Always bring a towel
When my system starts up, I get probably 99.5% of the water coming through the open and full drains. Very little watwr if any comes through the emergency. Also, my system is in the basement with 16' of horizontal before it gets to my sump, but either way, I don't really see any water coming through the emergency line. It takes about 5 minutes for all the air to be purged from the full siphon, during that time the open channel is handling what the main can't.
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My emergency line never gets used unless it is, well, an emergency...
Thank you! I just finished all my plumbing this past weekend and am planning on running a leak test this next weekend. Can you tell me where do you start to set the levels? Do I fill the tank and adjust the gate valve on my main siphon after the water level just about reaches the vent hold in the top of the 90 of the open channel? As I understand you need a very small amount of water to be flowing down the open channel correct?
Sorry about all these questions - I have been reading as much as I can but with so many pages and posts, its taking a long time
Sounds good. Will try that this weekend.
zelie_dad
Always bring a towel
You will know when it's dialed in, because it will be completely silent. Both my full and open channel are both slightly submerged, and that makes it very obvious that all the air has been removed. Also, I belive that that main line should be submerged for some reason other than that, but I don't remember why.
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