Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
Henry Bowman
Reefing since '87
http://www.autotopoff.com/MISC/1-4_fitting.jpg
I didnt even tap the cap. I drilled a hole for a tight fit and used PVC Cement to attach it to the top. I used threaded caps so that I could remove the cap in the case of an obstruction.
The tubing I used is standard 1/4" tubing that is used on RODI units. I pushed the tubing into the fitting that is glued into the cap. I then attached the other end (the end of the tube that sucks air) just above the water level with a zip tie so that if the water level rises much at all, the the air tube starts to suck water and the second aspirated flow channel becomes a full syphon.
I didnt even tap the cap. I drilled a hole for a tight fit and used PVC Cement to attach it to the top. I used threaded caps so that I could remove the cap in the case of an obstruction.
The tubing I used is standard 1/4" tubing that is used on RODI units. I pushed the tubing into the fitting that is glued into the cap. I then attached the other end (the end of the tube that sucks air) just above the water level with a zip tie so that if the water level rises much at all, the the air tube starts to suck water and the second aspirated flow channel becomes a full syphon.
uncleof6
Active member
Re: CAP on Open Channel?
Re: CAP on Open Channel?
http://www.waterfilterstore.net/fittings_valves_and_tubing.asp?gclid=CI2usNWZ4ZcCFRPZDAodg1_YDQ
Jim
Re: CAP on Open Channel?
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15689964#post15689964 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by yoki32
Hi there,
How can you drill, tap and thread a cap to accept a standard John Guest airline fitting? What are tools used and which parts to buy? Anyone can post hyperlinks to where we can purchase these?
Much appreciated!
http://www.waterfilterstore.net/fittings_valves_and_tubing.asp?gclid=CI2usNWZ4ZcCFRPZDAodg1_YDQ
Jim
Henry Bowman
Reefing since '87
I'm not uncleof6 but one bit is a good fluted bit with a pilot (starts small and gets bigger so the hole goes where you want it)
The other is a tap made for threading a pipe so that you can screw fittings into it.
I dont have a tap so I just drilled a tight hole and PVC cemented my guest fitting into place.
The other is a tap made for threading a pipe so that you can screw fittings into it.
I dont have a tap so I just drilled a tight hole and PVC cemented my guest fitting into place.
stealle
Premium Member
I think the John Guest fitting you need is this one: http://www.waterfilterstore.net/pi010823s.asp
I'm not sure why the photo above shows two different fittings? Perhaps just to show you can optionally use one with a valve. I'm not sure why you would need a valve.
I'm not sure why the photo above shows two different fittings? Perhaps just to show you can optionally use one with a valve. I'm not sure why you would need a valve.
Jim: 'cause it is a plumbing gadget! THAT is the reason
Actully - I can't think of why you would want a valve there either.
I use a male threded x hose barb 90 on top of the cap, and run the airline tubing down to just above the top ove the elbow. That is where I trim it off at.
T
Actully - I can't think of why you would want a valve there either.
I use a male threded x hose barb 90 on top of the cap, and run the airline tubing down to just above the top ove the elbow. That is where I trim it off at.
T
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Remember...
my original setup was (3) Durso standpipes. Each had an air valve and each had a ball valve. It sucked. When I built the second set of standpipes, I was not sure how the system would work out, so I still put a ball valve and air valve on EACH standpipe so that I could utilize any standpipe for any function.
There is no real world need for the air valve or ball valve on the open channel standpipe (or emergency standpipe).
my original setup was (3) Durso standpipes. Each had an air valve and each had a ball valve. It sucked. When I built the second set of standpipes, I was not sure how the system would work out, so I still put a ball valve and air valve on EACH standpipe so that I could utilize any standpipe for any function.
There is no real world need for the air valve or ball valve on the open channel standpipe (or emergency standpipe).
Henry Bowman
Reefing since '87
I dont have a pic but will attempt an explanation.
The end of the airline on the top of the open chanel pipe is ziptied to the open chanel pipe just above the waterline inside the overflow box. With the open end of the airline there (just above the water line)...IF the water in the overflow begins to rise (obstruction in the syphon line or the open chanel) then the water blocks the air to the open chanel and it becomes a full syphon allowing it to drain ALOT more water. This leaves the emergency drain available for any water the open (now closed, full syphon) cannot handle.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
What specifically are you looking for?
Well, I'm unsure as to what you wrote previously regarding the emergency standpipe and air valve. Did you mean that you don't have any john guest fitting attached to any standpipe or should i have one attached to each standpipe? A revised picture of the three standpipes would have been good to ses if you have any...
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
My setup has a JG fittings on ALL of the tandpipes becuase they were ALL originally setup to be dursos. They ALL also have ball valves.
You only need an airline fitting on the OPEN CHANNEL and a ball valve on the SIPHON standpipe.
Hope that helps.
You only need an airline fitting on the OPEN CHANNEL and a ball valve on the SIPHON standpipe.
Hope that helps.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Thanks
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Steve I don't have any photos that I can get to easily right now.
My standpipes drop straight down and into 45 degree bends so that they clear the edge of the sump. After a short section of flec pipe, there is another 45 degree bend to send the pips back to vertical. They are submerged about 1" into the intake compartment of the sump.
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