Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
uncleof6
Active member
The fitting, on the pump side of the valve, is a 2" Slip x Mipt union; on the sump side of the valve is a 2" Slip x Slip union. No need for a gate valve in this position, as it is only an on/off (don't have any ball valves scaled.) A true union ball valve could be used in this position.
Jim
uncleof6
Active member
Depends on the flow rate you are looking for. The 1" elbows reduce the capacity of the 1.5" stand pipes. 1.25" will reduce the capacity more.
Jim
uncleof6
Active member
Submerging the pipes is critical for silence, (no splashing water) but not really for the operation of the design. My experience with trickle filters is they were noisy no matter what. But then this is a distant memory :beer: It is probably relative. My systems are silent now. I really don't see any reason you CAN'T run the drains in the top of a trickle filter, as it will not create back pressure in the pipes similar to submerging them too deep in water, or connecting to a skimmer. But do not join the lines into one pipe. Keep the three separate.
Jim
Bzar
New member
Thanks for replying uncleof6. I'm looking at putting about 1200 gph through the overflow. Bean said he pushes 2000 gph through his with 1.5" standpipes so I'm thinking that 1.25" should be able to handle 1200 gph.........unless my math is totally wrong? Think that'll work? I don't want to spend the cash on plumbing if it's a hairbrained idea 
uncleof6
Active member
Thanks for replying uncleof6. I'm looking at putting about 1200 gph through the overflow. Bean said he pushes 2000 gph through his with 1.5" standpipes so I'm thinking that 1.25" should be able to handle 1200 gph.........unless my math is totally wrong? Think that'll work? I don't want to spend the cash on plumbing if it's a hairbrained idea
Yeah, well-- bean messed up, when he put his system together: He used 1" bulkheads.......:lol2: (there was a reason for that, way back on the first page of the first iteration of this thread) cause 1.5" will flow more than that. 1.25" will flow more than 1200 also, so 1.25 through and through will work just fine. It is always better to have more capability than you need. It is easy to dial a system back, but not so easy to get 2 more gph in a system that is maxed out. (I don't believe bean's system is maxed out either)
Jim
Henry Bowman
Reefing since '87
Uncle. I have re read the above post a couple times. Here's my question.
For systems wanting to run 1200-1500 gph what is the best set up. Are you recomending that we (I) go with 1.25" bulkheads and reducers for the 1.5" T's I already have, then throttle it back (syphon channel) if needed?
BTW - Thanks for all the help and information !
For systems wanting to run 1200-1500 gph what is the best set up. Are you recomending that we (I) go with 1.25" bulkheads and reducers for the 1.5" T's I already have, then throttle it back (syphon channel) if needed?
BTW - Thanks for all the help and information !
uncleof6
Active member
Not exactly. Bean used IIRC 1.25" street ells, 1" bulkhead, and then up to 1.5" for the stand pipes. As you can tell, this is more than adequate, if you are looking for flow in the 1200 - 1500 gph range. Bean also stated, IIRC, he was able to run a Reeflo Dart wide open on this setup. What I was getting at is you could probably use 1.25" external, and hit this range also. Just by nature, I am going to use 1.25" fittings without adapters. (Street ell, blukhead, etc.) which would increase the capacity over the use of a 1" bulkhead.
When I posted this reply, the post appeared above, showing a posting time of 8:58am, it is now 2:10 pm?? (GMT -7)
Jim
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dipan
Member
Thanks for the great drain design Bean. I was hoping I could get you to comment on a system that I'm setting up and trying to apply your drain system to. Here's a diagram of what I had in mind. It's a remote sump, but unfortunately, the drain pipes have to run on the floor and then come up 30-35" to come up and into the sump:
My original help request thread on plumbing this is in the DIY section here. I would really appreciate your thoughts ... Thanks ...
My original help request thread on plumbing this is in the DIY section here. I would really appreciate your thoughts ... Thanks ...
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Dipan,
I am setting up a large system right now that has the drains going down under the house and back up into the filter room. I dont have the luxury of using 3 drains, but I used 2" for the main siphon drain and 2.5" for the emg / open channel drain.
They will still work, but due to the length and head pressure of going back up, you will need to oversize your plumbing, or reduce your flowrates accordingly.
Also, upon pump startup, there will be reistance to flow until the water starts moving through the pipes then stabilizes. You will need to figure this into your end flowrate. You do not want the tank to overflow before getting a good siphon running. I use a high tank level sensor (Profilux contoller on this one) to shut the return pump off before this ever occurs. You'll need to adjust your return pump valve after setting it all up.
Also, you will periodically want to close the siphon drain valve and flush out any sediment that builds up in the open channel drain line. Since flow is so low it will become a major sediment trap.
HTH,
Chris
PS Jim, you are CAD MACHINE!
I am setting up a large system right now that has the drains going down under the house and back up into the filter room. I dont have the luxury of using 3 drains, but I used 2" for the main siphon drain and 2.5" for the emg / open channel drain.
They will still work, but due to the length and head pressure of going back up, you will need to oversize your plumbing, or reduce your flowrates accordingly.
Also, upon pump startup, there will be reistance to flow until the water starts moving through the pipes then stabilizes. You will need to figure this into your end flowrate. You do not want the tank to overflow before getting a good siphon running. I use a high tank level sensor (Profilux contoller on this one) to shut the return pump off before this ever occurs. You'll need to adjust your return pump valve after setting it all up.
Also, you will periodically want to close the siphon drain valve and flush out any sediment that builds up in the open channel drain line. Since flow is so low it will become a major sediment trap.
HTH,
Chris
PS Jim, you are CAD MACHINE!
dipan
Member
The sump may very well be made already (ordered it maybe a month or two ago). Moving where the drains dump into the filter socks to the other side would necessitate moving the skimmer (in the static height water chamber), and I was hoping to keep it on that side so I can run a line to drain from the skimmer cup to keep the skimmate chamber empty.
Also, I'll have to think about adding a float valve to the main tank (in the Calfo, I guess) to prevent an overflow. I'm going to try it many times with different flowrates. I really don't need a huge amount of flow. Less than 1000gph will probably be fine. There will be a Super Dart Gold on a closed loop for plenty of circulation. So return is not for circulation purposes.
Also, I'll have to think about adding a float valve to the main tank (in the Calfo, I guess) to prevent an overflow. I'm going to try it many times with different flowrates. I really don't need a huge amount of flow. Less than 1000gph will probably be fine. There will be a Super Dart Gold on a closed loop for plenty of circulation. So return is not for circulation purposes.
In other news....
Paul at OceansMotions is working on a silent overflow system with return using ONE larger bulkhead- 2- 1.5" drains, 1-1" siphon drain, and 1-1" return all in one bulkhead using a 4.5" diameter hole. Could also be scaled down (or up) for different size tanks.
Great stuff!!
Paul at OceansMotions is working on a silent overflow system with return using ONE larger bulkhead- 2- 1.5" drains, 1-1" siphon drain, and 1-1" return all in one bulkhead using a 4.5" diameter hole. Could also be scaled down (or up) for different size tanks.
Great stuff!!
CyanoMagnet
New member
Beananimal, amazing setup and amazing idea. Is there anyway I can contact you in private, via email etc? I have a proposition Id like to discuss with you. Thanks again for your time.
JTL
New member
I just finished setting up this overflow system and I am having a difficult time getting the water level to stabilize. I am using a gate valve and 1 1/4" fittings, except for the bulk head. I have also just capped off the safety drain for now until I get the right fitting, but I don't see how that makes any difference. Any thoughts?
John
John
Bzar
New member
Not sure if this has been addressed, probably has, but there's a lot of pages to read through now so I thought I'd ask if anyone else has tried changing the order of the pipes?
Not for any special reason other than spacing problems it would work out better for me to put (from left side of the tank to middle ... overflow holes are on the left)
Emergency, Open Channel, Full Syphon.
|==O==O==O===============|
this be fine?
Thanks
Edit: went to the store today and they got in a new batch of PVC plumbing complete with all the 1.5" pieces I needed
Not for any special reason other than spacing problems it would work out better for me to put (from left side of the tank to middle ... overflow holes are on the left)
Emergency, Open Channel, Full Syphon.
|==O==O==O===============|
this be fine?
Thanks
Edit: went to the store today and they got in a new batch of PVC plumbing complete with all the 1.5" pieces I needed
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