Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

I have a couple questions - I appologize if this was already addressed, I did not read all 40 pages of this thread.



Doesnt the strainers restrict water flow, especially if its at the bottom of the overflow box? Used a table saw? Yikes, that sounds dangerously close to your fingers. What was the gap between each thread of the strainer? I think I might elect for the removable bulkhead kind.



if the overflow box and the siphon standpipe is deep enough, then shouldnt one would not have to worry about the water in the overflow box being high enough to prevent air being sucked into the elbow? If that's the case then the left and right pipes would be purely for emergency purposes then I'd imagine.




I don't understand the 'why' to this statement. Why have the air line at all? Why not just have both the middle and right pipes server as siphon standpipes? Also - I thought the air is what made the system noisy to begin with - so why is introducing air keeping the system quite?

Kindly, every one of your questions is clearly answered in the first few pages of this thread and on the project page at my website.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=1310585

http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx
 
Bean,

You should just put your sig as the link the this and your website. "For those want to ask questions before reading."

I do apologize that I have asked clearly repetitive questions; I guess I am just over-thinking this project.

I have read the first 26 pages of the thread, it is not that I have not put forth the effort to read.
 
I do apologize that I have asked clearly repetitive questions; I guess I am just over-thinking this project.

I have read the first 26 pages of the thread, it is not that I have not put forth the effort to read.

Just curious to really boggle your mind have you read the first half of this thread. (the other 40 pages) lol.
 
The confusion may be that Capslock has not seen that portion of the thread - I can understand that

Caps- go back tothe first page of this thread, first post, there should be a link to the the original portion of the thread. Go to the first page of that, and you will find all of the pertinent info in the first 5 pages or less.
Good Luck!
T
 
HI,

2 quick questions if i may

1. Does the plumbing need to be bigger than the bulkheads? I've got 1 1/2 bulbheads and planned on using 1 1/2 pvc.

2. On a different setup my tank and sump are on the same shelf (sump is 1 foot lower). The plumbing is therefor almost horizontal and only drops about 4 inches. Can I use this syphon method to reduce bubbles and noise?

thanks
 
HI,

2 quick questions if i may

1. Does the plumbing need to be bigger than the bulkheads? I've got 1 1/2 bulbheads and planned on using 1 1/2 pvc.No, does not have to be larger. I think it helps a bit - but not an absolute

2. On a different setup my tank and sump are on the same shelf (sump is 1 foot lower). The plumbing is therefor almost horizontal and only drops about 4 inches. Can I use this syphon method to reduce bubbles and noise?Yes, but myabe Uncleof6 or Bean will advise on any possible negatives I may be overlooking... I think the only possible concern may be on start-up. More vertical drop may allow for faster siphon start up.

thanks
 
HI,

2 quick questions if i may

......

2. On a different setup my tank and sump are on the same shelf (sump is 1 foot lower). The plumbing is therefor almost horizontal and only drops about 4 inches. Can I use this syphon method to reduce bubbles and noise?

thanks

For siphon self-excitation not only the difference in height is important, but also a quantity of water in pipe - the more water moving downwards by gravity through pipe, the easier siphon starts.
In your case 4 inches is very small height difference, hence self-adjusting siphon could be arranged (if technically possible...) using long pipe with small drop.
 
Yes... 700 GPH siphoned through a 1.5 bulkhead and pipe is just a trickle. Is it not amazing how broad a flow range this type of setup will safely and quietly handle? :)


I hooked up my reeflo dart, turned it on and started the siphon, then i threw both of my 1800gph sump pumps in the sump also, handled all of it..... siphon was 100% open and dont think it could handle much more though, but crap thats probably 4000gph+
 
I thought about starting a new thread , but figured this one might be the best to ask my question. It is the original, after all! My tank has a "built-in" overflow, so I am more or less stuck with it. It has room for two vertical standpipes. As such it is drilled on the bottom in the overflow box which covers the entire height of the tank. There would not be room to drill another hole in between the two due to the space the bulkheads actually take up. I am wondering if I can drill the BACK of the overflow box area in between the two standpipes in order to incorporate the third pipe. What it would look like (compared to what the original "BeanAnimal concept" looks like) is the left would be a longe vertical pipe, the middle would go through the back, and then the right, again, would be a long vertical pipe. The elbow would still be pointing down, down, up (from left to right). I hope what I am asking makes some sense as I am inept with autocad programs LOL.
 
lordofthereef,

The big question is what kind of tank is. Are you sure you can drill the back? Make sure it is not tempered (which a lot are). IIF IS DRILLABLE then yes you can do it that way.
 
lordofthereef,

The big question is what kind of tank is. Are you sure you can drill the back? Make sure it is not tempered (which a lot are). IIF IS DRILLABLE then yes you can do it that way.

Thanks for the quick response. It is acrylic, so drilling shouldn't be an issue, just wanted to check and see if the concept itself made sense before I made any holes.
 
I seem to have misplace how far down are you supposed to drill to the center of the hole of the bulkhead? Also the bulkheads should be placed at least the width of the bulkhead apart correct? And the final question is would 1.5 bulkhead be overkill for a 140g total capacity system?
 
HI,



On a different setup my tank and sump are on the same shelf (sump is 1 foot lower). The plumbing is therefor almost horizontal and only drops about 4 inches. Can I use this syphon method to reduce bubbles and noise?

thanks

I'm having trouble getting the syphon to start. sorry i'm sure the diections are somewhere but i can't find how to get it to start. I guess i open ALL 3 ball valves then close the syphon one. let the water cover the syphon then open the ball vavle. I repeated this a few times to purge any air. Wont start syphoning though.

Probably because its only a 4 inch drop but if anyone has any ideas then thanks heaps

Aaron
 
Eliminating corner overflow

Eliminating corner overflow

I have 100 gl. AGA tank, 60L x 19D x 20H, with a corner overflow through the bottom of the tank. It only has one hole that has just a simple standpipe with spiral slots cut in it. I would like to utilize BeAn's design on this tank. I have read elsewhere that the bottom of "off the shelf" glass tanks have tempered bottoms and can't be drilled, but usually the back glass is not tempered and can be drilled.
Question 1: If the bottom is tempered, how did they drill the hole in the bottom? Have they got some top secret machine that can do this?

Question 2: My thoughts are to drill the back to put the BeAn overflow in and use the plug from one of the drilled holes to plug the bottom corner hole and silicone a square of glassover it to seal it. Will this work?

I realize these questions are sort of simple, probably to simple, to you guys just. From reading this thread and others on this site it's obvious some of you are truly pro's at this. I am just a guy out here who has always wanted to set up a reef tank and I'm trying to learn as much as I can before I screw up a perfectly good tank and wipe out a bunch of critters. Let me say, I'm not a total gomer. I have experience in construction, and electrical work, but glass tanks and saltwater are things I'm trying to learn about and need a little guidance at.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
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I have 100 gl. AGA tank, 60L x 19D x 20H, with a corner overflow through the bottom of the tank. It only has one hole that has just a simple standpipe with spiral slots cut in it. I would like to utilize BeAn's design on this tank. I have read elsewhere that the bottom of "off the shelf" glass tanks have tempered bottoms and can't be drilled, but usually the back glass is not tempered and can be drilled.
Question 1: If the bottom is tempered, how did they drill the hole in the bottom? Have they got some top secret machine that can do this?Yep...I will tell you the secrect...They drill it BEFORE the glass is tempered:dance: Bear in mind it may not be tempered - there *should* be a sticker on the bottom pane warning you if it is tempered

Question 2: My thoughts are to drill the back to put the BeAn overflow in and use the plug from one of the drilled holes to plug the bottom corner hole and silicone a square of glassover it to seal it. Well - you could...but why? Rather - why not install a blkhead, and seal a pipe into it - and run any wiring you see fit thru it?

I realize these questions are sort of simple, probably to simple, to you guys just from reading this post and realizing a lot of you have backgrounds in some pretty complicated proffesions. I am just a guy out here who has always wanted to set up a reef tank and I'm trying to learn as much as I can before I screw up a perfectly good tank. Let me say, I'm not a total gomer. I have experience in construction, and electrical work, but glass tanks and saltwater are things I' m trying to learn about.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
Good Idea

Good Idea

Thats a good idea! I guess if I was actually working on it instead of contemplating it, these kinds of things might come to light.

Thanks Tee, You helped break the air lock in my head!
 
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