Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

Hi everbody,

I'm planning a 200g glass tank and wnat to use "bean" method for overflow. It's a 64" x 30" x 28" (h) system with a coast to coast external overflowbox.

tesisat01.jpg

I'm planning to run a Eheim Compact 3000 and 5000 for the return pump. So, is it ok using a 1.25" pipe for Siphon; and 1.5" pipes for Open Channel and Emergency lines?

tesisat02.jpg

And also, what diameter would you suggest for return pipes, 1" pipes or some larger?
 
It is hard to tell from the pictures, but you might want to move the returns to the ends and limit the overflow/skimming to the inside center. I can't tell but you want to make sure the water goes through the tank not right back in through the overflow. Otherwise I think it looks pretty good. Don't know the pump well enough for pipe size, but in general they sound fine.
 
Thanks fishman, I see your point.

tesisat03.jpg

this is another drawing from my tank, do you still think the return pipes must moved to the ends? The return pipes are curved inside the tank pointed to bottom (or a littele bit to sides also).

I placed the siphon and open channel to one side; and emergency to another. Because some nasty alg or wandering anemone can block one or more pipes at the same time. But in my design, emergency pipe is phisically 50" away from others.

We can argue the place of pipes, but what do you think about their radius? Are they ok? (Eheim 3000 will give some 600 gph, and Eheim 5000 will give 900 gph at the returning water level)
 
I guess we are up to $0.04 now. Direction are your choice, but now that I see the front it looks better. Don't have two anemones they both might wander. I would use something to separate. Eggcrate? I really don't know pipe sizes sorry.
 
Yet another question.

I just noticed the wonderful "Hydraulics for the Reef Keeper" article on Bean's homepage. While designing the emergency line, do you use that calculator? If I assume both the siphon and one channel is blocked, then all the flow must go through emergency line. Choosing "free discharge", "1 inch head height" and 2 inch pipes, the result is still insufficient for me. I can add another pipe or increase the head height, but what is the common opinion?

Regards,
 
The calculator is just a rough estimate based on a siphon with no friction. It should be within 20% of real world for a short siphon with plastic pipe and a minimum of fittings.

That said: from what I skimmed over above, you are talking about 900 GPH and a 1.25" siphone will easily handle that with a foot of head.
 
Firochromis,

I think your limit is coming from "1 inch of head height". Although possible I doubt this is what you have. The "head height" is the water level from top to bottom. Most standard configuration are going to be at least 24 inches 9sump below tank).
 
Hey Bean,

Quick question for you on the orginal page of this thread you stated that your bulkheads were at a center line of 4.25 inches from the top of the glass I was wondering if there was a reason why you put yours down so far right now I am at about 3.25 of center on the open bulkhead that is about .5 inches more then the saftey of 1.5x dia of bulkhead.

Before I drill I just wanted to make sure that there wasn't a reason you put yours farther down in the tank?
 
I have a question do you need to glue the standpipe into the bulkhead coming out of the aquarium? I ask because once glue is isn't coming apart.
 
I thought so I had heard mixed answers thought I would ask the experts. :D I got my open channel all tap to fit a 3/8 pipe to 1/4 compression fitting I also added a 90 push lock fitting so the hose wont have to bend as much, since I will have an open top aquarium.

So I am going to glue that standpipe in last just to make sure everything is fitting good. :)
 
I am going to do this system on my tank but have a couple ?

all 3 pipes are the same height?

how do you adjust the valves?

I am going to have about 3000Gph from a dart going into my tank I am going to use 1.5" all the way and not go 1" to 1.5" do you think that is enough?

thanks Rich
 
The setup only needs the single valve on the siphon standpipe. The 1.5" plumbing will work fine for the Dart. Spend a bit of time and read through the thread and website.. most of your questiuons (including the ones you have not even thought of yet) will be cleary answered :)
 
ok I understand it now but still one ?

the tube that enter the sump does it have to be under the water line or can it spill in a filter sock? thanks
 
ok I understand it now but still one ?

the tube that enter the sump does it have to be under the water line or can it spill in a filter sock? thanks

Oh I can get this one.

You want the siphon and open channel to end just under the normal operating water line in you sump if you put it above you will get a spalshing sound... you will however want to keep the emergency pipe above the water so that way you can hear the splashing and be alerted that the emergency standpipe is working.
 
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