Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[reefermad619]

Bean just posted a siphon calc on his homepage. I just calculated my potential siphon rate, 1" bulks, with 1" pipe, with ~ 4 foot drop, came out to 2357 GPH. And that's just 1 siphon line. Your 1.5 inch pipe will laugh at 1200 GPH.

 

[scott26]

good I can do 1 inch elbows with 1.5 piping good news thanks

 

[reefermad619]

good I can do 1 inch elbows with 1.5 piping good news thanks

What size is your tank. If under 100 gallons, you might only need 1" pipe.

 

[scott26]

What size is your tank. If under 100 gallons, you might only need 1" pipe.

My total tank running capacity should be around 120 gallons I think I will use 1.5 piping out the back to reduce any noise that may accur because of cavitation but I am not sure it would happen with 1 inch I guess that would be a question for bean.

 

[cmashman]

I just plumbed my 72" tank, which has a 36" external overflow, using the methods described in this thread. I only lack installing the airline in the middle pipe. I'm waiting on my mag18 to come in the mail and then I can add water.

Close up: L-R: Emergency, Open(still needing the airline installed), Full Siphon

 

[gweston]

Update us on how it all works out!

I have to pickup glass from the local shop to start work on mine. It is cut and ready.

I have a 72" 125g tank. I am going with a slim internal overflow 48"x2"x6" (no teeth) that feeds to an external box where the pipes are. I'll also be using a Mag18 for return, though when I plumb it in, it will be from a basement sump. Pipes will be 1.5" though I think 1" would have been fine.

I skipped using a coast to coast 72" overflow. I am leaving 12" on either end and drilling in returns. Most likely use a 3/4" lockine split to dual 1/2" so I can easily direct flow.

-Gary

 

[TheFishMan65]

cmashman,

What is holding up all those pipes? I hope it not just the overflow box. Do something to mount them to the wood frame.

 

[Mel-E-Mel]

Can someone post pics of the entire plumbing scheme? From how each drain is plumbed into the sump please. I'm more of a visual person.

 

[cmashman]

cmashman,

What is holding up all those pipes? I hope it not just the overflow box. Do something to mount them to the wood frame.

Already planned on it. I just finished gluing them yesterday, and I've got support brackets for the overflow pipes, and plasitc hanging tape for the return pipes, just haven't installed them yet. Will do that before I even run a drop of water thru there. Planning on doing it tonight.

 

[cmashman]

Can someone post pics of the entire plumbing scheme? From how each drain is plumbed into the sump please. I'm more of a visual person.

I've already posted the overflow photos above. Here are the termination ends, which will be just below the waterline in the sump.

 

[uncleof6]

Can someone post pics of the entire plumbing scheme? From how each drain is plumbed into the sump please. I'm more of a visual person.

The drains ougtha be plumbed in with as straight drop into the sump as possible. Use 45s rather than 90s etc. This reduces friction loss in the system. The returns in this drawing may not be optimal in terms of friction loss, and in most cases a single return is all that is needed, eliminating the additional fittings/friction loss.

Jim

 

[paal]

I came across this thread earlier today and have tried to add the basics to my 20G nano

The original overflow on my tank is very simple. Basically just a pipe with a 90 degree bend at the water surface. (see pics)
I placed a small elastic hose inside the original pipe to add the siphon effect. In the original “drain hole” I connected the new hose to 2x 90degree plastic bends to lock it in place. (again – pics)

Almost no water runs through my original drain now, and the system is 100.0% silent All I can hear now are my pumps and skimmer.

Even with the new hose taking up space inside, the original pipe can easily handle all the flow if I clog the hose. I’m still a bit skeptical though. I’m new to the hobby and fear that there are issues I haven’t thought through :S (Will this setup be more vulnerable to slime/particles building up over time and clogging it etc…)

 

[Mel-E-Mel]

The drains ougtha be plumbed in with as straight drop into the sump as possible. Use 45s rather than 90s etc. This reduces friction loss in the system. The returns in this drawing may not be optimal in terms of friction loss, and in most cases a single return is all that is needed, eliminating the additional fittings/friction loss.

Jim

Ok, so the stand pipe on the left is for the emergency drain which should stay dry, the one in the middle with the valve is for the full siphon (controlled by closing the valve) and the pipe on the right is for partial drain?? is the pipe on the right set a little higher than the full siphon pipe?

Also, with this specific set up, 2x 1 1/2" drains with 2x 1" returns with flow accelerators will be more than sufficent for a quietone 4000 yes? And with this application the return pump will not need to be dialed down?

 

[uncleof6]

The pipe on the right is not set higher (some find the need, I don't)

1.5" will be more than you need for the quiet one 4000. You can use 1" pipe. I would suggest a 1.25" open channel, they work better than 1". The one inch will handle more flow than your desired pump can think about putting out. So you can run the pump wide open.

You need to use all three pipes. So 2x 1.5" drains is not enough..............

Jim

 

[Mel-E-Mel]

The pipe on the right is not set higher (some find the need, I don't)

1.5" will be more than you need for the quiet one 4000. You can use 1" pipe. I would suggest a 1.25" open channel, they work better than 1". The one inch will handle more flow than your desired pump can think about putting out. So you can run the pump wide open.

You need to use all three pipes. So 2x 1.5" drains is not enough..............

Jim

Well, I wanted to use 1 1/2" piping incase i decide later on down the road that i need more flow thru the sump and switch to a eheim 1262 or 1260. Just want tsomething where i wont have to mess with the plumbing if i do decide to switch out pumps. So maybe 1.25'' would be best in my application.

 

[uncleof6]

Well, I wanted to use 1 1/2" piping incase i decide later on down the road that i need more flow thru the sump and switch to a eheim 1262 or 1260. Just want tsomething where i wont have to mess with the plumbing if i do decide to switch out pumps. So maybe 1.25'' would be best in my application.

The 1" siphon will handle anything that the eheims can throw at it. These are low flow pumps also. The 1262, after head loss, and friction loss will flow ~600 gph, the 1" siphon will do 1500 probably more, depending on variables, with minimal friction loss and noise. Albeit, the 1.25" open channel is a good idea, and really no reason NOT to use 1.25" across the board; never know when you may want to use a "real pump"

Jim

 

[Wrench]

Just curious as to why all the pipes must be in the same overflow box. Assuming that the level in each box is equal, why couldn't the two drains be housed in one corner with the emergency overflow in the opposite?

 

[BeanAnimal]

The emergency overflow does not need to be "in the same box" it can be outside the box, at a level slightly higher than the box. You would not want to isolate it in its own box simply becuuse that box would become stagnant with no flow (no other standpipes in it).

 

[Wrench]

Thank you, Bean.

 

[reefluv]

Very nice, what are the dimensions of your overflow?
Thanks!