Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

Bean if i go with a 6 foot internial weir how far off the back galss should it be? i was thinking about a 2 1/2" by 3" high weir as i am trying to get the weir as narrow as i can. then i plan on creating a 6x6x36 externail over flow in the back.
 
Bean if i go with a 6 foot internial weir how far off the back galss should it be? i was thinking about a 2 1/2" by 3" high weir as i am trying to get the weir as narrow as i can. then i plan on creating a 6x6x36 externail over flow in the back.

Flow wise, the 2.5" should work fine. Service wise 3" would be better (more accessible.)

Jim
 
Jim why will I need to service the weir if I plan on having a external overflow?

I have a 6' tanks so hole many hole would be best for this size tank if running a 6' weir?

Also what dimension should i build the external weir? I dont think I need one running the entire back of the tank. Based on what you posted in another thread would a external overflow of 36x6x8 work best?

here is were I got the infomation from http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1733011
 
Never know what will grow in this place or that with a reef tank, was just something that crossed my mind when reading your post.

Jim
 
Thanks Jim, i will keep that in mind as i am still thinking of what to do, however I might have a few questions got you down the road.
 
Can someone give me some advice on how to get the siphon properly started on the beananimal style overflow system. I started everything up last night but I don’t think I have it properly adjusted. The siphon standpipe seems to have air trapped in the intake elbow that seems to bubble out periodically. Plus the water in the overflow box has filled to the point where the failsafe standpipe is being used.
 
How deep into the sump, is the outlet for the full siphon standpipe? More than an inch will give the siphon problems with starting.

Jim
 
I am using an Eshopps HOB overflow box on a 125 g tank (tank glass is all tempered so I'm stuck using the box). The Eshopps has the two standard 1" drains in the bottom of the overflow. I'd like to modify it to a beananimal full siphon overflow. What do people think about drilling a hole for a 3rd bulkhead 2/3 of the way up the side of the overflow to serve as the all important emergency drain? Seems like this should work in theory but has anyone tried it?
 
How deep into the sump, is the outlet for the full siphon standpipe? More than an inch will give the siphon problems with starting.

Jim

The siphon stand pipe extends about 6 to 8 inch below the surface of the sump. So i'm guessing I need to trim the stand pipe then.
 
I am using an Eshopps HOB overflow box on a 125 g tank (tank glass is all tempered so I'm stuck using the box). The Eshopps has the two standard 1" drains in the bottom of the overflow. I'd like to modify it to a beananimal full siphon overflow. What do people think about drilling a hole for a 3rd bulkhead 2/3 of the way up the side of the overflow to serve as the all important emergency drain? Seems like this should work in theory but has anyone tried it?

I wouldn't think that this would add much of benifit to you seeing as how the HOB method is already flawed by having to use the U-Tube to start the siphon... at least that is what I think.

Why not just drill your tank?
 
The siphon stand pipe extends about 6 to 8 inch below the surface of the sump. So i'm guessing I need to trim the stand pipe then.

I dont have the quote from bean but you want the standpipe to terminate just below the normal operating level in you sump any high or lower will cause start up issues.

Also if you haven't all ready drill a small hole just above the normal operating level of the sump on the standpipe to release any unessarcy back pressue that might be building up.
 
Thanks for your opinion Scott, but the tank will explode if drilled because its tempered. Does anyone else have insight about adding the 3rd bulkhead to an overflow box? My main goal here is to reduce noise because I'll already have more than enough flow for my tank. My second goal is simply to practice the setup for a future, larger tank, setup.

I wouldn't think that this would add much of benifit to you seeing as how the HOB method is already flawed by having to use the U-Tube to start the siphon... at least that is what I think.

Why not just drill your tank?
 
Thanks for your opinion Scott, but the tank will explode if drilled because its tempered. Does anyone else have insight about adding the 3rd bulkhead to an overflow box? My main goal here is to reduce noise because I'll already have more than enough flow for my tank. My second goal is simply to practice the setup for a future, larger tank, setup.

I think with a HOB overflow box if you are concerned about noise don't add another drain just use a gurgle buster like I do and it is relatively silent. The only sound I have is the water cascading down the hose because I used the ribbed tubing that came with it instead of smooth tubing.

I used this but actually inverted the bell so water enters under it instead of over the top. I take it off every two weeks and clean and to make sure there is no build up.

http://home.everestkc.net/jrobertson57268/HGB/HGB_construction.html
 
I am using an Eshopps HOB overflow box on a 125 g tank (tank glass is all tempered so I'm stuck using the box). The Eshopps has the two standard 1" drains in the bottom of the overflow. I'd like to modify it to a beananimal full siphon overflow. What do people think about drilling a hole for a 3rd bulkhead 2/3 of the way up the side of the overflow to serve as the all important emergency drain? Seems like this should work in theory but has anyone tried it?

It will work just fine with regard to function. There is certainly a question of need. The U-tube siphon is much more likely to fail than the vertical siphon in the overflow box. You are adding a fail-safe to a system that has a single point failure in the chain before the fail-safe can render the system... well, safe.
 
I have a 60g CUBE, 1" bulkhead for return, made by marineland. Anything I could do that would be similar to this design? I cannot drill because overflow is siliconed in already and I cant even put my hand in the overflow (stupid design), check out my pics to see what I am talking about.

Any input would be appreciated. Thanks

FYI... Nothing is glued yet.
 

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Well you could cut your overflow box off it is just silicone and then do a coast to coast but that might be more trouble then it is worth maybe you could go external and put the 3 standpipes in the external box.
 
Yeah I was thinking about cutting out the overflow, drill more holes and put it back in. Or just cut it out and use a different overflow box. I though I would post my pics here and maybe there was a solution without doing all that work.
Thanks Scott.
 
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