Gary Majchrzak
Team RC
Thanks for the reply, Keith.
Stockman Standpipe--New, Easier Design
- Thread starter kstockman
- Start date
Anyone have any ideas on what I can do now?
kstockman
New member
sorry for the brief reply. My current method of making the standpipes is to cut a reduction fitting such that only a small portion of the coupling fitting will fit into the reduction fitting. I leave about 3/8" to 1/2" of the portion that will accept the coupling fitting. This allows you to just slide the reduction directly on to the inner pipe with out a dremel. I then cut holes in the side of the internal pipe with a router table.
All of the fittings are then glued in place with super glue. YOu could use PVC glue, but it smells too much for me to use.
Then drill a 3/8" hole in the endcap and put in 18" of vinyl tubing for the air intake. The hole should just be pushed into the hole to hold it in place and not into the water. The hose acts to baffle the air intake noise.
ken
All of the fittings are then glued in place with super glue. YOu could use PVC glue, but it smells too much for me to use.
Then drill a 3/8" hole in the endcap and put in 18" of vinyl tubing for the air intake. The hole should just be pushed into the hole to hold it in place and not into the water. The hose acts to baffle the air intake noise.
ken
Ken:
Thanks for the great idea.
I have read through this thread and your last post confused me in a couple ways ...
1) Are you now recommending the usage of an endcap with airline tubing instead of a plug with slots cut into for air intake? If so, how is the air intake controled/adjusted?
2) Are you saying that the reducer (that connects to the bottom of the coupling and to the inner pipe) no longer requires the removal of the stop ridge, meaning that the inner pipe slip fits onto the reducer and the top of the inner pipe is only about 1/2" above the bottom coupling? If this is all accurate ... where is the hole cut in the inner pipe?
Thanks, Greg
Thanks for the great idea.
I have read through this thread and your last post confused me in a couple ways ...
1) Are you now recommending the usage of an endcap with airline tubing instead of a plug with slots cut into for air intake? If so, how is the air intake controled/adjusted?
2) Are you saying that the reducer (that connects to the bottom of the coupling and to the inner pipe) no longer requires the removal of the stop ridge, meaning that the inner pipe slip fits onto the reducer and the top of the inner pipe is only about 1/2" above the bottom coupling? If this is all accurate ... where is the hole cut in the inner pipe?
Thanks, Greg
Snailspace
New member
Improved Standpipe
Improved Standpipe
Pardon the interjection but this design originated from a man in California and was posted on this forum. I copied it about a year ago and it works well.
Imagine a tall pipe connected to drain. The pipe is just short of your overflow grid bottom. On top of this pipe is where the fitting goes as described prior. I did not gle it in place. This fitting has a threaded top portion into which you can thread an end cap. By cutting a couple of verticle notches into the fitting threads (via hand saw or table saw), you create areas that "leak" air when you thread the top cap on. By threading the top cap deeper into the fitting, you can regulate the amount of air that is sucked into the fitting and drain pipe. This air serves to displace the amount of water going down the drain and keeps the drain from any vapor lock. Without this regulating feature, I found my overflow chamber would rise and fall in waves.
I very much appreciate this design created by this guy in California. If you are still around, I would appreciate you dropping a line. I just recall that it first appeared about midway in the first Stockman thread regarding the original Stockman design. I found I could not use Stockman's method on my tank because there wasn't ample room inside my overflow. Whoevere that guy was really hit on a simple, cheap and quiet idea. I am grateful.
Improved Standpipe
Pardon the interjection but this design originated from a man in California and was posted on this forum. I copied it about a year ago and it works well.
Imagine a tall pipe connected to drain. The pipe is just short of your overflow grid bottom. On top of this pipe is where the fitting goes as described prior. I did not gle it in place. This fitting has a threaded top portion into which you can thread an end cap. By cutting a couple of verticle notches into the fitting threads (via hand saw or table saw), you create areas that "leak" air when you thread the top cap on. By threading the top cap deeper into the fitting, you can regulate the amount of air that is sucked into the fitting and drain pipe. This air serves to displace the amount of water going down the drain and keeps the drain from any vapor lock. Without this regulating feature, I found my overflow chamber would rise and fall in waves.
I very much appreciate this design created by this guy in California. If you are still around, I would appreciate you dropping a line. I just recall that it first appeared about midway in the first Stockman thread regarding the original Stockman design. I found I could not use Stockman's method on my tank because there wasn't ample room inside my overflow. Whoevere that guy was really hit on a simple, cheap and quiet idea. I am grateful.
tiberiusjones
Premium Member
got any advice on removing my return lines so I can put in your stockman design overflow standpipe? I have a Tenecor tank with two corner overflow boxes. The return outlets are placed low in the corner overflow boxes, about 8 inches from the bottom. the return tubes are 3/4" and go up to the top in a U bend then down to the return port. Unfortunately this tube is blocking the top of the Overflow pipe which is simply a length of 1 inch PVC about 6 inches long with many holes drilled in it. I would like to cut out the existing return lines and place a 3/4 inch pvc going to the top and run it to a new bulkhead and attach locline on the outside with a twin v outlets. The corner overflow boxes are very narrow and tall, about 29" so I dont much room to work with it. Got any advice removing the old pipes? Right now, the thing makes a lot of moise as the water flowing through the overflow grates has a 23" drop before it hits the bottom level of the water going into the drain.
tiberiusjones
Premium Member
ill put some in my gallery
ultra spikey
New member
could someone draw a "cut-away" picture or something? im having a hard time trying to figure out how this works.
tiberiusjones
Premium Member
I uploaded a drawing I made with Google sketch in my gallery, hope this clarifies the situation better. Thanks.
tiberiusjones
Premium Member
well did you guys look at it? whaddya think?
tiberiusjones
Premium Member
no comments, ideas? this thread died...
marino420td
Premium Member
Check this link for my version of the Stockman standpipe. Lots of pictures. HTH.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=867050&perpage=25&pagenumber=2
kstockman
New member
So if I get this correct, the one pipe that does the U turn is the return pipe and you make the U turn so that if the pump turns off, then you have a siphon break? Is this correct so far? Then the pipe with holes in it is the drain line. What is the water level in the overflow when the tank is running?
I have plenty of solutions to your issue. Just a question of which is best. I will be posting a few new designs within the next month or so. I need to make them and beta test them. This requires me to setup a whole new system in the garage. My goal is to optimize the design.
Take a look at my website, which I just updated. You will see the new design there. I will eventually post pictures to a gallery if I can.
http://home.nc.rr.com/stockmanreef/
You will see that I took the new design to a whole new level. I have the endcap milled professionally and then I glue/solvent weld an endcap to the milled one. This creates a one piece enclosure which slides over the pipe. I use a coupling fitting with as a stop to prevent the fitting from sliding down the pipe. The height of the water around the Aqua-Silencer stapipe can be adjusted by changing the length of pipe in the device.
Let me know what you think. This will not specifically solve your issue, if I am correct about your situation.
cheers
ken
I have plenty of solutions to your issue. Just a question of which is best. I will be posting a few new designs within the next month or so. I need to make them and beta test them. This requires me to setup a whole new system in the garage. My goal is to optimize the design.
Take a look at my website, which I just updated. You will see the new design there. I will eventually post pictures to a gallery if I can.
http://home.nc.rr.com/stockmanreef/
You will see that I took the new design to a whole new level. I have the endcap milled professionally and then I glue/solvent weld an endcap to the milled one. This creates a one piece enclosure which slides over the pipe. I use a coupling fitting with as a stop to prevent the fitting from sliding down the pipe. The height of the water around the Aqua-Silencer stapipe can be adjusted by changing the length of pipe in the device.
Let me know what you think. This will not specifically solve your issue, if I am correct about your situation.
cheers
ken
tiberiusjones
Premium Member
Ken,
Yes that is correct the utube is the return and i guess it was made that way as a siphon break it has a hole driller in the middle of the top of the u which water tends to flow out of noisily, the drain pipe fills up to about 4 inches from the bottom of the overflow, nice elegant design on the new pipes!
Yes that is correct the utube is the return and i guess it was made that way as a siphon break it has a hole driller in the middle of the top of the u which water tends to flow out of noisily, the drain pipe fills up to about 4 inches from the bottom of the overflow, nice elegant design on the new pipes!
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