Stolireef Rising from the Ashes...Again

Stolireef

Active member
As many of you know, I've had almost no success with my reef since moving to AZ. After my first try failed, I did a complete rebuild with a much better plumbing and electrical setup but it still crashed and burned. The basic setup has been a 5 stage RO/DI directly ATO'ing the sump, a 20 gallon fuge, CaRx, all controlled by an Apex. Salt mixing station was next to tank.

I've decided to go in a somewhat different and hopefully simpler system this time.

1. I'm getting a Trigger sump that should neatly house my skimmer, some rubble rock, and a sock filter.
2. No fuge
3. I'm going to skip the CaRx and, instead dose 2 part. Still deciding on the doser. Tempted by the new Neptune DOS but it only has two channels and I think I want the ability to handle more things. Just seems easier to maintain the correct balance in the tank. I can always supplement with Kalk in my topoff.
4. I'm setting up an ATO reservoir. I think this may be the key point. In my last two builds, the RO/DI directly topped off the tank and I suspect that the topoff water quality was problematic. Something about the first gallon out of an RO/DI unit containing more contaminants. It's the only thing I really couldn't test for and it's the only difference between my prior successful tanks and these two miserable failures.

Pretty much everything else will stay the same. 2x250 MH 2xT5 Actinics. MP40 and three Tunze 6095 Turbelles. Sicce Syncra 4 dry plumbed for return.

I should have all of the equipment in by March 1 and will hopefully be water testing by mid-March.

The third time better be the charm!!
 
I'll be following your build closely! We seem to have similar algae frustrations (although the last time for me was aptasia!)

Best of luck, take lots of pictures!

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
 
Good luck on the new build, i like the new approach. What size is the tank again?

For 2part I have been really impressed with the seachem fusion system, very well engineered and you dont have to do any balancing yourself, always add equal parts.

I got the cheap Jebao 4head doser and it is solid, but a lot of people dont like the brand. You could always get 2 apex DOS =P

Nice timing, you should be able to get pieces at DFF just as the tank is getting ready for coral =)
 
good luck with the build, TDS creep is a bit tricky. I deal with with by using 2 of the dual stage TDS meters, check valve, 2 manual valves and a RO bladder. First two mins of water production at least is going into RO bladder for tank item wash up and drinking. Once I see TDS down to single digits I can open the 2nd manual valve to the DI stage feeding a 30g resivour. The check valve keeps the DI water from back flushing into the RO. The second TDS meter lives on the input and output side of the DI stage. I also have a second valve on the RO line feeding the pressure tank for when I might want to isolate the RO drinking water tank pressure from the DI line. I'm also careful to only run the RO unit when I need 10g of product water or more, short cycling is hard on equipment. There are bluetooth programable timers and electric 1/4" press fit valves that could automate some of that.

HTH
 
Thanks for the advice. The way I'm setting up now, there will never be an instance in which I'm running less than 10 gallons. The ATO system will wait for the reservoir to be very close to empty before refilling and the salt mixing station will run for 20 gallons. I'm hoping that this does enough to sufficiently avoid TDS creep (for the life of me I couldn't remember that term). I could probably set up a diverter on a timed switch that runs the system to a waste drain for a few minutes before adding to salt station or reservoir. Just another thing I have to think through.
 
good luck with the build, TDS creep is a bit tricky. I deal with with by using 2 of the dual stage TDS meters, check valve, 2 manual valves and a RO bladder. First two mins of water production at least is going into RO bladder for tank item wash up and drinking. Once I see TDS down to single digits I can open the 2nd manual valve to the DI stage feeding a 30g resivour. The check valve keeps the DI water from back flushing into the RO. The second TDS meter lives on the input and output side of the DI stage. I also have a second valve on the RO line feeding the pressure tank for when I might want to isolate the RO drinking water tank pressure from the DI line. I'm also careful to only run the RO unit when I need 10g of product water or more, short cycling is hard on equipment. There are bluetooth programable timers and electric 1/4" press fit valves that could automate some of that.

HTH
What type of check valves do you use? I need to add some to my MaxCap where I placed a T to get RO for drinking water.
 
Good luck on the new build, i like the new approach. What size is the tank again?

I got the cheap Jebao 4head doser and it is solid, but a lot of people dont like the brand. You could always get 2 apex DOS =P

Nice timing, you should be able to get pieces at DFF just as the tank is getting ready for coral =)

The tank is a 110 rimless Leemar. I've got a Bubble Magus 3 head doser on order along with a Tunze osmolator.
 
So, all equipment has been ordered. Tunze Osmolator for topoff, Trigger Systems Crystal Elite 30 sump, Eshoppes 10 gallon ATO resevoir (love that it has a built in float valve), three channel Bubble Magus Doser (will use for two part for the moment with the third channel to maybe play with other additives).

I almost pulled the trigger on new lighting but then I saw this tank with virtually the same lighting as my current setup and I think I'll keep my powder dry

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v714/tileman/335g/335g II/_MG_0960 copy.jpg

Tank has been cleaned and this afternoon, I'll work on cleaning out the overflow (definitely the worst part of the cleanup effort). With a little luck, if everything arrives as scheduled, I'll be plumbing this weekend.

I may reach out to those who have experience with dosers and Osmolators since I'll be new to them.

Otherwise, being in semi-temporary retirement is fun.:lolspin::lolspin::lolspin:
 
Well:

I figured out how to clean the overflow and now it's squeaky clean and ready for a bulkhead. The plumbing should be fun. If you listen closely, you should be able to hear my cursing as I make my 4th trip to Home Depot for that one elbow I forgot.
 
Since I'm going bare bottom, I've decided to upgrade the flow. I'll now have an MP40 on each end of the tank about 2/3 of the way up and two Tunze 6095 about 1/3 of the way up on the back. Maxed out, it should push about 120X tank volume per hour. I plan to run the MP40's on nutrient export mode most of the time. The goal is to have as little detritus in the tank as possible.
 
Yep. I showed her some of the best bare bottom tanks and she really liked a few of them. I'm going to let polyps and coraline algae grow on the bottom so it really wont look bare.
 
nice, it was the same with me browsing the huge vendor tanks and TOTM threads that were bare bottom that had me liking that method/look. Looking forward to pics of the build.
 
Big Clean Glass Box

Big Clean Glass Box

Any journey starts with the first step. Clean glass box.
 

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Hey man, If you have any problems or questions dont hesitate to ask me. I could even go and take a look give you second opinion on stuff. Good Luck!
 
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