That's it. I'm done
- Thread starter Bent
- Start date
anbosu
New member
If there is already one in the tank I probably wouldn't change it.
sde1500
Active member
http://www.elite-aquatics.net/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=44 as another option, idk if it would be faster. Looks real nice too.
Hitch08
New member
I put eggcrate/light diffuser on the bottom. I am sure that I got that advice on here. I found it at Home Depot - when I looked, Lowe's didn't carry it.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia...r-Replacement-Diffuser-L2GT-PLTS-R5/100579509
Happyschneider
New member
Egg crate serves me well to anger stone so it is more stable. But it affects the sand sifting critters like nassarius snails or the pistol shrimp. He goes almost crazy 
ReefInterest
Member
I used this with my latest tank:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/24-in-x-...k-Twin-Wall-Plastic-Sheet-COR3624BK/205437929
Who knows, it might even act as a plenum. :lolspin:
Oh -- I also painted the bank of the tank black and then glued this on top of the paint for protection.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/24-in-x-...k-Twin-Wall-Plastic-Sheet-COR3624BK/205437929
Who knows, it might even act as a plenum. :lolspin:
Oh -- I also painted the bank of the tank black and then glued this on top of the paint for protection.
CStrickland
New member
I used starboard (hdpe). I bought a batch of scraps on eBay from a boat salvage guy, they are 5x31/2" and 1" thick. I put them under most of my rocks, but will have a few rocks in the sand for gobies.
I'm not sure it does anything for the glass, there's soooo many tanks with the rock right on it that I think they'd be breaking left and right if this was necessary. I think yours is only the second time I've heard of it. You hear any clicking like maybe a mantis? Or maybe just a bum tank, like for lizards, not fish. Anyway, I'm using the starboard as a lift so I can have more flow behind the rocks and minimize detritus accumulation. Like a hybrid barebottom / ssb tank. The 2" of sand will give my wrasse a bed and I like how it looks.
Here's a pic I'm right now in the middle of cleaning up all the cement I spilled sticking the rocks together
I'm not sure it does anything for the glass, there's soooo many tanks with the rock right on it that I think they'd be breaking left and right if this was necessary. I think yours is only the second time I've heard of it. You hear any clicking like maybe a mantis? Or maybe just a bum tank, like for lizards, not fish. Anyway, I'm using the starboard as a lift so I can have more flow behind the rocks and minimize detritus accumulation. Like a hybrid barebottom / ssb tank. The 2" of sand will give my wrasse a bed and I like how it looks.
Here's a pic I'm right now in the middle of cleaning up all the cement I spilled sticking the rocks together
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CStrickland
New member
davocean
Active member
Tempered glass bottom is pretty hard to break in most cases, on the face anyway, hit on edges another story.
While it was probably never needed I did use eggcrate many times just to keep pointy rock on glass and vibrations to minimum, never issues, starboard may be a better option.
My rock now is on acrylic rod holders that are on flat acrylic, so no need, and this also helps me since I live where we have quakes.
While it was probably never needed I did use eggcrate many times just to keep pointy rock on glass and vibrations to minimum, never issues, starboard may be a better option.
My rock now is on acrylic rod holders that are on flat acrylic, so no need, and this also helps me since I live where we have quakes.
Xxero
New member
Ben, I just make a simple pvc line as straight from the return pump as possible. I "U" it over the back rim, and cut it off about 1/2" under the water line. When you cut the power, only that top 1/2" drains back to the sump, and this way no siphon break hole needs to be incorporated into the pipe.
Sorry to hear, btw, but have fun with the new 75! :bigeyes:
Bent
I got nothin'
Lookie what I picked up!
I'm pretty sure it's a 75g.
The stand is weirding me out that there is zero support on the bottom in the middle. I'm thinking about putting a pice of plywood on the top of the stand and maybe sticking a piece of carpet or foam over that to support the bottom. The bottom glass has a sticker that says its tempered. I'm I over-compensating or will it be just fine like that?
I'm pretty sure it's a 75g.
The stand is weirding me out that there is zero support on the bottom in the middle. I'm thinking about putting a pice of plywood on the top of the stand and maybe sticking a piece of carpet or foam over that to support the bottom. The bottom glass has a sticker that says its tempered. I'm I over-compensating or will it be just fine like that?
davocean
Active member
It's a trimmed tank, it does not need bottom support, and in fact a reverse pressure could actually cause a failure should that carpet be too thick and push upwards, why they do not advise foam underneath them.
Use it as is, nice score, post dims or check home page tank volume calculator to know exact size
Use it as is, nice score, post dims or check home page tank volume calculator to know exact size
+1...Not necessary on tank with rim...definitely no carpet or foam
reefcentral123
In Memoriam
I skimmed thru the thread but did you mention what caused the leak? Good luck with the new tank
ReefRealEstate
Member
I quit 10 years ago, had a 72 gallon bow front. Was completely new at the hoppy but dove in head first. Had some success with mostly everything, the. There was a flood in Calgary in '05 and something went funky with the city water and caused all kinds of issues. My tank went from crystal clear to green, algae every where killed most of my corals and fish. I tapped out. Now. A decade later I am building my dream tank. 300 gallons, RO - ATO - auto saltmix and water change and so on. Fail safes everywhere, so pumped. In the long run you will see that this will be a blessing in disguise and you'll have the tank you always wanted. :beer:cheers stay with it. Might be a good time to do some planning and do it right.
Bent
I got nothin'
I think my animals are OK down where they are. I have both lights sitting on top of the 30g with a plate of glass, so I think I'm going to do this right this time and really think it through without rushing to get it done.
i think what I'm going to do is this, in order:
1: buy a nicer overflow and ditch the tiny box I have. It will look nicer and be much less obtrusive. Probably one of the ghost types in the links mentioned earlier.
2: Buy a new return pump and use the current blue line for something else. I don't think it's enough at this point. I may go with an additional fluval sp6 or a reeflo.
3: design a nice functioning return.
4: instead of having the pipe go down through the wall, I'm going to physically cut the wall so that I can push the tank against it. This will involve cutting the baseboard, and relocating a power outlet to the other side of the wall which is the staircase to the man cave. Then I'm going to run the baseboard around the stand itself so the stand looks more integrated.
5: I'm going to run all wiring through the wall, to the other side of the wall to the newly relocated power outlet. I think I'm going to use the box plates that have the furry comb tooth stuff to clean the entry point on the wall instead of just a big hole. I'll put a plate on the left of the tank and a plate on the right. Anything that has to be plugged up can go through one of those.
6: I'm going to make a nice floating canopy for the lights to clean it up so the lights are no longer hanging by plant hangars. That will eliminate the wires and cables showing and lessen the light spillage some.
The goal of this now is to make the tank and stand look more integrated into the home, cleaner with no wires showing. Suggestions are welcome!
i think what I'm going to do is this, in order:
1: buy a nicer overflow and ditch the tiny box I have. It will look nicer and be much less obtrusive. Probably one of the ghost types in the links mentioned earlier.
2: Buy a new return pump and use the current blue line for something else. I don't think it's enough at this point. I may go with an additional fluval sp6 or a reeflo.
3: design a nice functioning return.
4: instead of having the pipe go down through the wall, I'm going to physically cut the wall so that I can push the tank against it. This will involve cutting the baseboard, and relocating a power outlet to the other side of the wall which is the staircase to the man cave. Then I'm going to run the baseboard around the stand itself so the stand looks more integrated.
5: I'm going to run all wiring through the wall, to the other side of the wall to the newly relocated power outlet. I think I'm going to use the box plates that have the furry comb tooth stuff to clean the entry point on the wall instead of just a big hole. I'll put a plate on the left of the tank and a plate on the right. Anything that has to be plugged up can go through one of those.
6: I'm going to make a nice floating canopy for the lights to clean it up so the lights are no longer hanging by plant hangars. That will eliminate the wires and cables showing and lessen the light spillage some.
The goal of this now is to make the tank and stand look more integrated into the home, cleaner with no wires showing. Suggestions are welcome!
Reef Bass
colors and textures
To calculate tank volume in gallons, multiple length x width x height (all in inches) and then divide by 231. LxWxH gives you number of cubic inches, and 231 is the number of cubic inches per gallon. Dividing cubic inches by cubic inches per gallon gives number of gallons. Yay math!
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