The "Hitchhiker's Guide" to the Maxi-Stream mod
- Thread starter dhnguyen
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If this can be patented, don't you think Tunze would have made it so? 
This is not something that's totally new nor unique at all infact the basic concept and design has been around for a very long time now.
The fact that saying you have a patent pending is kinda iffy. You got the idea from someone else.
D.
This is not something that's totally new nor unique at all infact the basic concept and design has been around for a very long time now.
The fact that saying you have a patent pending is kinda iffy. You got the idea from someone else.
D.
coralreefing
Premium Member
Can anyone direct me to a pic of the impeller mod for a MJ400. If I cut the fins off the impeller there won't be much left to attach to. Is there a better, stronger, way?
By the way I have solved the noise problem with the 1.25" Dumas props when used the double prop design. The key here is when drilling out the hole in the prop to fit 3/16", you have to be sure to bored it through straight. Otherwise, the propellers will fit on slightly off centered causing horrible vibration and noise,
I bought a 3/16" carbide Dremel cut out bit and this is perfect for the job. Piece of cake to drill out the holes for the props now
D.
I bought a 3/16" carbide Dremel cut out bit and this is perfect for the job. Piece of cake to drill out the holes for the props now
D.
Shawnts106
New member
RARRRR!!!
ok, I got my stuff from Towerhobby right... and start of the MOD...
first I take the impeller out, take it apart, and attach a bit of flexi and rigid together... so then I cut the rigid, and the carbon rock and attach it ... then I start on the propellers, the first Nitro was VERY difficult but I finnally got it drilled out...
the second.. half way through went BOOP so.. yeah, I only have one rrrrrr!!!
So ive got the one attached and I am going to place ANOTHER order from someone.. to get the Nitros again!
Im sooo maddd about it!
so anyway
Dhnguyen...
I need your advise on this one
Now, remember Im moding a MJ1200
so... here is whats up...
This is it now:
Now... the Carbon Rod is 5.75 inches long... is this too long? not long enough?
the rest... ( Magnet, flexitube, rigidtube, prop) is a total of 4.5inches long... is this too long? or not long enough? or fine...
Let me know if you see anything wrong...
I am ordering SEVERAL more props just in case! haha
also, How did you drill the Nitros? they ARE VERY DIFFICULT!
any more help would be GREAT!!!
err.. so upset about the stupid broken prop! errrrrrrrrr
please help!
ok, I got my stuff from Towerhobby right... and start of the MOD...
first I take the impeller out, take it apart, and attach a bit of flexi and rigid together... so then I cut the rigid, and the carbon rock and attach it ... then I start on the propellers, the first Nitro was VERY difficult but I finnally got it drilled out...
the second.. half way through went BOOP so.. yeah, I only have one rrrrrr!!!
So ive got the one attached and I am going to place ANOTHER order from someone.. to get the Nitros again!
Im sooo maddd about it!
so anyway
Dhnguyen...
I need your advise on this one
Now, remember Im moding a MJ1200
so... here is whats up...
This is it now:
Now... the Carbon Rod is 5.75 inches long... is this too long? not long enough?
the rest... ( Magnet, flexitube, rigidtube, prop) is a total of 4.5inches long... is this too long? or not long enough? or fine...
Let me know if you see anything wrong...
I am ordering SEVERAL more props just in case! haha
also, How did you drill the Nitros? they ARE VERY DIFFICULT!
any more help would be GREAT!!!
err.. so upset about the stupid broken prop! errrrrrrrrr
please help!
Shawnts106
New member
hey also, how did you attach the suction cups to the top of the MJ for a Tunze like mount?
I am using WELDER brand All purpose contact Adhesive...
just wondering...
I am using WELDER brand All purpose contact Adhesive...
just wondering...
ejmeier
Active member
Why doesn't anyone look locally for boat propellers? Hobbytown USA is basically a national chain, with all kinds of props.
Its not like that one single one that is listed is magical and all the others won't work. I'm sure if you find one with a similar dia and pitch it should give similar results.
I guess for me, I am much too impatient to wait for a $3 part to arrive via snail mail when I now I can drive out a get it TODAY.
Shawn - gradually increase the hole size, don't just go from start to finish in one 3/16" bit.
Its not like that one single one that is listed is magical and all the others won't work. I'm sure if you find one with a similar dia and pitch it should give similar results.
I guess for me, I am much too impatient to wait for a $3 part to arrive via snail mail when I now I can drive out a get it TODAY.
Shawn - gradually increase the hole size, don't just go from start to finish in one 3/16" bit.
Right...
Just like you can't just put a patent on a propeller.
Nor the rubber stoppers that came from the Maxijet, or the rod. The only thing left is the casing which you could make it look unique enough to file a patent on. There are at least 4 different looks for the casing I could come up with that will work for the mod. Having a patent on the look of the casing seems frivolous at best.
AND you can't file a patent on the slotted pipe look as that's an idea taken straight from the existing irrigation pipes and strainers.
It isn't so easy to file a patent on something nor is it cheap (something like $20K in lawyer's fee last time I checked) as most people think.
D.
Just like you can't just put a patent on a propeller.
Nor the rubber stoppers that came from the Maxijet, or the rod. The only thing left is the casing which you could make it look unique enough to file a patent on. There are at least 4 different looks for the casing I could come up with that will work for the mod. Having a patent on the look of the casing seems frivolous at best.
AND you can't file a patent on the slotted pipe look as that's an idea taken straight from the existing irrigation pipes and strainers.
It isn't so easy to file a patent on something nor is it cheap (something like $20K in lawyer's fee last time I checked) as most people think.
D.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6668138#post6668138 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ejmeier
Why doesn't anyone look locally for boat propellers? Hobbytown USA is basically a national chain, with all kinds of props.
Its not like that one single one that is listed is magical and all the others won't work. I'm sure if you find one with a similar dia and pitch it should give similar results.
I guess for me, I am much too impatient to wait for a $3 part to arrive via snail mail when I now I can drive out a get it TODAY.
Shawn - gradually increase the hole size, don't just go from start to finish in one 3/16" bit.
None of the HobbyTown stores local to me carry Dumas nor Hobbico propellers. They only seem to have Traxxas props which although are very good, are a PITA to use. You would have to drill out the brass inserts inside the Traxxas props to use them in your tank.
D.
1. 5.75 inches for the rod is a bit long for my taste but that's really up to you. Just be sure its length fits your MJ and PVC housing.
2. Your impeller/propeller assembly does look a bit too long for my taste as well but again this is up to you how long you want to make it.
Either way it should work.
If you use a 3/16" Dremel cut out bit, it is a piece of cake to drill out the holes for the propellers.
D.
BTW... The Dremel bit that I am using on my (non-Dremel) rotary tool is part number DRE192
http://www.hobbyplace.com/tools/drebit1.html
Bought it at Home Depot for $5.
D.
http://www.hobbyplace.com/tools/drebit1.html
Bought it at Home Depot for $5.
D.
Chris,
You should check out BullDZR's thread on this mod. He demonstrated a very good way to mod a MJ600 impeller.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=611354
Basically what you need are
5/16 round tubing (Local Hobby Shop $4.25)
1/4 round tubing (Local Hobby Shop $4.00)
D.
Shawnts106
New member
Dhnguyen,
I have already put it together... and glued it... with 2 props what is the shortest length for the carbon rod and rigid?
geeze, I took the old broke prop out of the trashcan and have tried to glue it to the rigid.. so far its fine... however doesnt look its best!
but I think it will work and not break...
Im useing the Glue and also, the Welder to hold it together...
ALSO, very important...
In the picture you can see an inch or so of carbon rod at the tip...
how close do I need to put the prop stop to the prop?
Im very confused about this step... and Worry its not going to be done right...
thanks so far.
I have already put it together... and glued it... with 2 props what is the shortest length for the carbon rod and rigid?
geeze, I took the old broke prop out of the trashcan and have tried to glue it to the rigid.. so far its fine... however doesnt look its best!
but I think it will work and not break...
Im useing the Glue and also, the Welder to hold it together...
ALSO, very important...
In the picture you can see an inch or so of carbon rod at the tip...
how close do I need to put the prop stop to the prop?
Im very confused about this step... and Worry its not going to be done right...
thanks so far.
An inch or so of space between the end of the propellers and the cross brace is fine. You need to leave some room for the propellers to spin and pull out the impeller magnet when it's spinning the wrong way. That way when the whole thing is pulled out it will hit the stopper, stop spinning and get sucked back into the MJ body by the force from the magnet.
I had the stopper just beneath the crossbrace. However you choose to do it, you need to allow enough room for the props to spin freely without hitting the stopper when the whole thing is spinning correctly. Only when it spins the wrong way should it hits the stopper.
D.
I had the stopper just beneath the crossbrace. However you choose to do it, you need to allow enough room for the props to spin freely without hitting the stopper when the whole thing is spinning correctly. Only when it spins the wrong way should it hits the stopper.
D.
heh patent this? thats just sillyness. unless the guy's a patent attorney.
heck you can patent something pretty inexpensively. its defending the patent thats pricey, argueing that they didnt effectivly alter the design by enough to be outside the patent... though patenting a modification to another companies product is silly as well.
50$ also sounds high. its 10$ in parts and about 10min in labor. probably half that on both counts if you did it a whole bunch of times and got the best tools for the job.
heck you can patent something pretty inexpensively. its defending the patent thats pricey, argueing that they didnt effectivly alter the design by enough to be outside the patent... though patenting a modification to another companies product is silly as well.
50$ also sounds high. its 10$ in parts and about 10min in labor. probably half that on both counts if you did it a whole bunch of times and got the best tools for the job.
shelburn61
New member
even if he IS a patent attorney I doubt it will fly for prior art reasons. Is he really the first to come up with this? The best he could do is a design patent and that just covers the look of it. No need to worry on this one IMO.
Critter
Premium Member
Do you have a pic of that bit or the part #? Thanks.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6668269#post6668269 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dhnguyen
1. 5.75 inches for the rod is a bit long for my taste but that's really up to you. Just be sure its length fits your MJ and PVC housing.
2. Your impeller/propeller assembly does look a bit too long for my taste as well but again this is up to you how long you want to make it.
Either way it should work.
If you use a 3/16" Dremel cut out bit, it is a piece of cake to drill out the holes for the propellers.
D.
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